briandye Posted February 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Actually it's only barely an inch low according to the reservoir. Wish me luck as I drive it home... (Drove it about 4 miles to the gas station and all is well so far!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Gobs and gobs of coolantfree luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 She's home! I am so thankful yet so mortified. Thankful obviously because I don't need a water pump, mortified because this is a simple case of could-have-been-avoided-had-I-paid-more-attention. I obviously took way more coolant out than I put in back when I "changed" the coolant. I also seemed to somehow skip over the part in your post that said "wait until engine completely cools down, add more coolant if needed, then start and run on high heat." I blame part of that on the frustration I had that day, still being -10 with the windchill and no patience. Thank you so much WWWPerf. Can I buy you a case of beer or something? (Or beverage of your choice?) lol you've been such a great help through these few issues I've had with my Edge. I'm just gonna go drop the money probably at the Ford dealer for a complete flush and fill with new/correctly mixed coolant. I used my tester and with the G05/water mix I added to fill up, it says I'm protected as far as it would show (Something like -64) so the mix is probably a bit off. (Though freeze protection to -64 is ideal for this damn weather we've been having!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 One more thing I noticed, I think my cap is a 16 PSI cap and the coolant jug/tester say based on 15 PSI, does that 1 PSI make a difference? I might be wrong and actually have a 15, but I swear it said somehing else. I'll have to check tomorrow again. And does the coolant have to be completely cool to test it? Mine was warm, I read online it does matter and doesn't matter. About a 50/50 answer with that one. Just overthinking probably, but after my mess up, I don't think that's so bad to overthink these kinds of things right now, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 I looked over pics of the degas bottle cap and it does say 110 KPa or 16 psi on mine as well. I don't think you need to worry about that minor difference. Testing it warm, say around 70F but definitely at/above 32F is best, does your tester give you a chart? Specs are usually laid out at a specific testing temperature. Specific gravity is actually what is being tested for, and it tells you the % of coolant in the solution. It does NOT tell you anything about any other properties such as rust/corrosion inhibition. You might be able to guess at it with a voltmeter (electrolysis; readings also sensitive to temperature) and pH strips. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/water-temperature-specific-gravity-d_1179.html http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ethylene-glycol-d_146.html As to how pressure affects the coolant solution/any aqueous solution: http://www.animations.physics.unsw.edu.au/jw/freezing-point-depression-boiling-point-elevation.htm Fun facts on the different coolant formulations: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ffpe8aVvb2c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 I believe this is the same (or very close) to the one I have. One side shows freezing point, other side shows boiling point. http://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-1420-Antifreeze-Coolant-Tester/dp/B000BOA9RY#immersive-view_1424690589954 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 2 more questions 1. Does windchill come into play with antifreeze? Like if it's -10 outside but "Real Feel" is -40, and my coolant was only rated to -35, should I worry? (Theoretically speaking, with random numbers of course) 2. How does one regain trust from their vehicle? What can I have her do to make me trust her again? (lol just playing) but it's seriously gonna take me a few long trips before I feel safe driving it again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 1. No. That only works on skin. 2. Take a long trip or two...... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Always takes time to recover from the b***-clenching moments. If you trust your work, then relax and see what happens, rather than imagine the worst in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClosetotheEdge Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 A nightmare of a topic, and likely and a very possible future event. I am running a larger water pump pulley on my 2000 grand prix 3800 GTX. Car has over 111K miles. Temps are really controlled, due to Royal Purple and Lucas synthetic stabilizer. A Pontiac mechanic told me that he has seen water pumps last well over 200K miles. I am certain that it would be a miserable job having to replace the water pump on a 3.5L Edge. Why not just install performance cams why you are pulling your **** with all the work required?...yeah right..cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted March 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 Ended up just finding out that when i flushed the coolant, I somehow replaced way less than I drained out. Lesson learned the hard way. I blame it on the pressurized system or whatever the Edge has. Done a million drain (or flush) and refills of coolant on previous vehicles and never had an issue. They all had a radiator cap though and burping the air out was as simple as just starting the engine with the cap off and topping off as neccesary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 Most newer cars have a separate bleed valve or screw higher than the radiator. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 Most newer cars have a separate bleed valve or screw higher than the radiator. Does Ford have this in any of their late model vehicles? Haven't seen any, and the FSM's say you need a "system" to properly bleed the coolant of air. Hence the approach of running the heat at full blast, driving for some time at engine operating temperature, and refilling the degas/overflow bottle to the fill line with engine at ambient, multiple times as needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted March 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 Most newer cars have a separate bleed valve or screw higher than the radiator. That's what I read online as well, but I found no such screw/valve anywhere in my engine bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 They may not all have it. My 2000 Lincoln LS did and I thought I remembered another one recently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 (edited) It does appear to be a feature on the Fusion/Milan/MKZ, at least on some engines: http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Ford-Fusion-Milan-MKZ-2008-2009/Maintenance/Coolant/_/P-0996b43f80eb9c7a I see a heater bleed valve fitting for the LS: http://www.justanswer.com/ford-lincoln/3o8cx-trying-bleed-air-cooling-system.html Ford Escape with the 3.0L V6: http://www.fordmanuals.org/page-3545.html #7 in this pic Edited March 21, 2015 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted March 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 Just out of curiosity, anybody know what the normal engine (and/or coolant) temp should be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 188F is my understanding when fully warmed up. In operation, usually around 190-192F when moving, up to 204F observed when idling for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted March 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 Hmmmm that's what I thought, my UG is showing up to 213 degrees as the "Engine Temp" (don't know if there's a difference, but I believe it also has a coolant temp, but I didn't have it set to show when I was playing with it) This was while moving too. It was around 192 when I started (already warm) and idled for about 5 minutes then drove the course of my neighborhood and about a mile down the main road doing 45 or so and it continued to go up to said temp, didn't drop, didn't surge just a slow rise then I got back home and went in. Dash gauge showed normal, halfway up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted March 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 I'm gonna go out there and play with it again see if there's a difference with coolant temp, and then drive around. That's gonna drive me nuts if I don't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted March 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 (edited) Yeah I'm getting readings as high as 220. It was a short 4~ mile drive but it was still warm from just a little bit ago. Gets between 210-220 and doesn't fluctuate much. Seems to drop a little when I let off the gas and coast to a stop like a stoplight or something. My needle doesn't ever leave the middle of the gauge (once it's warmed up) In the video im uploading to show the UG, I am driving primarily without heat on, cruise set at 45, and to see if there's a difference, I turn the heat on at one point, and once I'm in my driveway at the end, idling, I even crank the AC. At the end when I shut it off, you can hear that the electric fan(s?) were roaring like I asked about in another thread. BTW- Coolant temp shows up as "engine temp" there aren't two separate ones. Also, if it matters, it's about 47 degrees outside. Will share the youtube link when it's done uploading. Edited March 26, 2015 by briandye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted March 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 It's quite possible the fans aren't operating properly, due to a bad motor or switch. Burping the coolant again would be a good idea. Is the coolant level on COLD FULL when engine is at ambient? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted March 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 I'll have to check tomorrow, from what I've saw (haven't directly paid attention to it, but I've glanced) it seems to be right at the cold fill line no matter what (cold engine/warm engine/heat on etc) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted March 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 I think I'm gonna take it in to get the fluid flushed and changed out at a dealership so I know it's done properly, with correct ratios and whatnot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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