Lunchbox Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 Backstory: Wife's car was making bad noises/smells when the AC was on. Looked at the AC pulley and it wasn't turning when the AC was on, even though the clutch was engaging. Took off the fender well cowling and the front of the pulley was obviously damaged. Ordered a replacement compressor. So I had the system evacuated, pulled the mounting bolts, and disconnected the pressure line. However, when I tried to remove the compressor, there is not enough room in front of the compressor to clear the bottom bolt housing from the bottom bolt. Am I missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 What year Edge? For a 2007: If flushing of the A/C system has not been carried out, recover the refrigerant. For additional information, refer to Section 412-00 .With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .Remove the drive belt from the A/C compressor pulley.Remove the RH fender splash shield. For additional information, refer to Section 501-02 .Remove the A/C compressor nut and stud.Remove the lower A/C compressor bolt.Disconnect the field coil electrical connector.Remove the upper A/C compressor bolt and reposition the A/C compressor to allow access to the compressor discharge and suction fittings.Remove the A/C compressor suction fitting bolt and disconnect the fitting. Discard the O-ring seal. Remove the A/C compressor discharge fitting bolt and disconnect the fitting. Discard the O-ring seal. Remove the A/C compressor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunchbox Posted January 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 (edited) 2009. Right. So I'm stuck on step 5. I removed the nut, but how do I remove the stud? Edited January 8, 2015 by Lunchbox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evorage Posted June 29, 2017 Report Share Posted June 29, 2017 This post is old but I thought some new information would be helpful. To remove the compressor I had to unbolt the engine mount and jack the motor up. Doing this allowed the compressor to clear the crossmember on the bottom. Otherwise it is almost impossible to get the compressor out. I didn't try to remove the stud because I doubt it would have cleared the crossmember. It's a pain but jacking up the motor made it a lot easier. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polarbear705 Posted August 5, 2017 Report Share Posted August 5, 2017 The bottom bolt is a stud with threads on both ends. To get it out used some big channel locks on the shank. You have get the other bolts out and the hard lines. Once that's done slide the Compressor towards the cross member and crank the bolt out.. you will start seeing threads after a little bit of cranking. Took about 5 mins. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
llkevoll Posted November 12, 2018 Report Share Posted November 12, 2018 After removing the double threaded stud, I removed the oil filter to get the compressor out easily. I didn't want to fiddle with motor mount. Replacement oil filter was cheap and easy. Thanks for your insight on this job. It made my turn to do it significantly easier! Appreciate you all. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveGranger Posted November 1, 2019 Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 There must be leakage in the compressor you must prefer to take it to an ac repair expert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mechanic69 Posted October 11, 2020 Report Share Posted October 11, 2020 I got an 08 and the compressor stays engaged with the ac on and it never disengages. Any idea why that might be? The air blows hot too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted October 14, 2020 Report Share Posted October 14, 2020 Do you have a sniffer like this one to check for refrigerant leaks? https://smile.amazon.com/Elitech-CLD-100-Refrigerant-Halogen-Detector/dp/B01H34U9N8/ You of course have to observe test conditions very closely, but if there is no dye visible (with a black light), then sniffing it out is your best bet. It can leak right out the Schrader valves on the ports or the evaporator and you'd never know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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