TRS 9012 Kit

[ajerina]

Hello all, I finally pulled the trigger on an HID kit for my sport. I bought the 9012 kit from TRS, however I can't seem to get the bulbs to seat correctly. Am I missing something obvious here?

[pjsockett]

I bought the 9012 kit about 6 months ago. At that time they just shipped a 9006 kit, not sure if that's what they still do or not. I had ti trim one tab on each bulb to get them to seat properly. They way they cam if it really struggled with it I could get it in but they weren't aimed correctly and they had a really bad shadow from the return wire.

 

Link to how I got them to work. Hope it makes sense.

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/14239-morimoto-bulb-install-troubles/?do=findComment&comment=110121

Edited October 31, 2014 by pjsockett

[normcloutier]

Not sure if your bases are the same but this is what I had to trim off my AbsoluteHID lamps in order to rotate them 1 tab. This put return wire at bottom which put shadow on top.

 

The area marked in black sharpie is what I had to trim. The pic is of the original OEM halogen lamp.

[badgb21]

Hi
Hope this helps.


2011 Ford Edge 4WD SEL
Hi
I have just fitted some DDM HIDs and wiring harness and Im really pleased with the results.
Thanks to all the many posts on here and the YouTube video by Dan Smith it was a relatively easy job.
I thought I add some tips to help anyone else who is considering this easy job:
1. I went for 35w 4500k These still have a slight blue hue to them and the light is so much better for driving.
2. I ordered from the DDM website the above bulbs, ballasts, wiring harness (dual in dual out), 9006 bulbs, the mounting brackets are a waste of time and you dont need the error eliminator or the adaptor cables. If in doubt call them first.
3. Before you kit arrives get familiar with the OEM bulbs 9012/HIR2 Getting them in and out was quite difficult. You will definitely need an inspection mirror. $3.50 from ebay or squeeze a shaving mirror in there. Use a torch and see how the tabs lock into place. I ended up filing some of the tabs to make them fit easier. Be careful as they file down very easily, go slow and a bit at a time.
4. Many have not used a wiring harness, but its very easy to fit and may preserve your cars harness one day! To fit: start at the battery terminals, the one with the inline fuse is the + Feed the cable around to each light. Follow the cars OEM wiring path and at the end of job, cable tie into place.
5. Mount the ballasts to the side of the headlight housing. There are two pips in the center of the space which makes it a pain, so you need to bridge these. I used some extreme sticky backed Velcro from Home Depot.
Cut two strips and stick in place above and below the pips on the housing, this appeared to bridge the pips ok. I managed to use so plumbers strapping tape over one ballast just as a safety precaution but couldnt get the lower screw in on the other side, so left it. I'll keep an eye on it. The cables wont let it go too far.
6. Connecting the wiring plugs is almost fool proof, just look out for the locking tabs so they mate properly on the larger connectors to ensure correct polarity. Take your time. Lay out the whole thing on the garage floor - harness and bulbs before you start if in doubt to see how it all connects.
7. Drill the back covers as per the video and fit the grommet in place. The 9006 bulbs fitted quite easily with no filing required. I was concerned about this after all the reading I'd done. I used the middle size rubber gasket supplied. You need to get the long return wire which is the white strip that runs along against the bulb glass at the bottom of the headlight housing when fitted.
Strangely I managed this on one side but it ended up being about 90 degs off on the other side? The light pattern still looks ok. Take your time, use the mirror. I did it outside on a bright day and a torch with warm hands! Be sure all the tabs are in place.
8. Bulb alignment there is an adjustment for up and down only at the back of the housing. Its an allen key fitting. The manual says you cannot adjust the width (unless others know more) You can do all the measuring etc, but what matters is how it looks on the road, so I just did this:
My OEMs were off anyway, so I needed to adjust them.
Firstly I made sure both lights were the same level by shining on a garage door at night. Then a couple of trips around the block told me they both needed to come down a touch and that was it. You can then follow someone you know in the dark and see if they blind their mirrors. Also do a passing in opposite directions to check if the lights are blinding.


For less than 70 bucks incl capacitors the improvement is amazing!
If anyone has any questions you can reach me at badgb21 at Hotmail dot com
Im no mechanic but Id be pleased to help if I can!

Edit - One of my lights didn't fire up if starting from auto position on the light switch. I can solve it by turning the switch to off, then switch them on again.
I fitted some capacitors from http://www.hidextra.com/capacitor/ very good service and seems to have solved problem. DDM were disappointing on the follow up with this problem. I would go to hid extra for all components if starting again today.
Edit - Lights now fail on auto, even with capacitors.

Kev

Edited December 18, 2014 by badgb21

[ajerina]

Thanks for the input folks. I got a response from TRS, and they recommended I take the rubber grommets off the factory bulbs and put them on the hid bulbs. They fit perfectly after that, however it appears one side is brighter then the other, and they can only be installed one way. I emailed TRS again so I will post what they tell me.

[j45p3r]

What did you find out? I just ordered the same kit. Thanks.