Factory Signal Delete for DTBL Edge2

[j0nblayz]

Just finished installing my DTBL Edge 2 running lights. The factory signal light didn't look right with the edge2 signal light, so i had to find a way to delete the factory signal lights. The method is actually very easy. My car is a canadian edge with DRL changed to parking lights, however should be the same for the US folks. All i had to do was remove the parking bulb, and put a load resistor on the 2 outside positive cables. This tricked the system to think bulb was still plugged.

 

Now my factory signals are deleted in the front, and don't have the hyperflashes even with the headlights on. Without the factory signals, it really makes the edge2 look factory. I like it a lot. Had hell of a time getting the wires into the footwell for the signals. And also when installing HID's, even for 35w ballasts, i recommend using a wiring harness. I had few times where the ballasts didn't ignite. This fixed my issue.

 

heres the factory look

 

heres with signal delete

 

with signal on

Edited August 2, 2014 by j0nblayz

[Jocelyn Castro]

hi, what do youean put the load resistors on the 2 outside positive cables? im gonna do this on mine too.

[TheWizard]

He misspoke. You always connect a load resistor between the turn signal power and ground. When you look at the three wires coming out of the back of the turn signal sockets they are aligned in a flat row. One of the outside edge wires is the turn signal power (positive) - blue/green on the left side and yellow/purple on the right side. The other outside wire is ground (negative) - black/green on the left side and black/grey on the right side. The middle wire in each socket is power for the parking/running lights and is not used for load resistors.

 

I really don't understand why one would want to eliminate the factory turn signals but if you want to do that yet still retain the factory parking lights you can leave the bulb in, cut the turn signal wire and connect the end coming from the vehicle harness to the load resistor as detailed above. That keeps the bright filament (turn signal and DRL) from turning on but retains the dim parking/running light filament for when the lights are on. The load resistor merely takes the place of the disconnected bulb filament so that the turn signals don't hyperflash. You could even replace the bulb with white instead of amber since it would no longer flash with the turn signals.

Edited August 7, 2014 by TheWizard

[j0nblayz]

TheWizard: Yes that is another way if you would like to keep parking lights, might actually be a better method However you think but cutting the bright filament line, it will cause hyperflashing?

Edited August 8, 2014 by j0nblayz

[The Whedge]

When the signal is on does the power still go to the parking light filament? If not then the parking light would turn off when the signal is flashing. Might look odd.

[TheWizard]

That's a good question... I've never checked. Certainly on non-computerized vehicles the parking light filament remains lit when the signals are on because they are two completely separate circuits other than sharing a common ground. But with everything computer controlled it would be quite possible to design them to keep both filaments from lighting at the same time. However, I doubt it because of how they work with the lights on... they flash bright-dim-brigh-dim rather than bright-off-bright-off so it would seem that the parking light circuit continues to have power even with the signals on. Otherwise you would see a short outage between flashes as it takes a moment for the incandescent filament to fully illuminate.