2-year-old Retro-Solution HIDs, dead ballast

[wannabang]

I know some have had some issues with RS, so I decided I'd post my contact with their sales team about what to do about my ballast. Maybe I could get some feedback from you all to help determine if I'm going about this is the right manner.

 

A week or so ago, I noticed my passenger-side headlight was out. Contacted RS about it, and they sent me some trouble shooting techniques. Here's what I was told to do:

 

1.

Please use the following easy and quick test steps to test system critical function and reply back with the found result:

- Turn off any factory entry or safety lighting features (keeps headlamps on after turning off vehicle for short period)

- vehicle engine off

- turn on low beam lamps

- allow them to warm up to full output

- turn switch to off and count seconds until the lights physically turn off

- please reply back with your result

With a multimeter, the following steps can be used to check wiring harness and power supply function:

(NOTE: never measure with any equipment the high-voltage output side wiring from ballast, the wiring between ballast output to bulb)

A pictorial accompanying guide is available here as well:

http://www.hidlightz.com/lowbeamohms.jpg

Part 1)

- vehicle engine off

-set meter for the lowest range of ohms (Ω) resistance (usually 0-200 range), do not set to voltage!

-place black probe to battery negative pole/pole terminal directly (put it there in way that it stays in place by itself)

-remove plugs from relay harness that plug into the ballasts socket (12v) on both sides of the vehicle

-on meter, place red probe into appropriately marked connection for measuring ohms if multiple sockets are available

-with red probe, measure pin in the harness side plug corresponding to the black wire side of plug (wire exits rear of plug)

-please reply back with your result for both sides, please note "0" indicates an error in test steps

Part 2)

- vehicle engine remains off

-remove wiring harness' battery (+) ring terminal connection from battery

-vehicle remains off, turn on low beams via normal vehicle controls

-move black probe from battery negative pole/pole terminal and place directly to the removed ring terminal, do not test from battery pole!

-move red probe to measure pin in the harness plug corresponding to the red wire side of plug (wire exits rear of plug)

-please reply back with your result for both sides, please note "0" indicates an error in test steps

After the steps above, please reply with your results so we can best assist you. In the meantime, and only after the previous steps, we would recommend checking individual component functional state for damage in operation, manufacturing defect, or engagement of ballast fail-safe by first swapping ballasts to the opposite sides, testing, and noting whether the issue moves with the ballast or stays put. Then swap bulbs to the opposite sides, test, and once again note whether the issue follows the bulb or stays put. Carefully inspect the wiring attached to the bulbs while transferring to the opposite sides. If a single piece of equipment is to blame, directly or indirectly, the issue will resolve on the side it is moved from and follow it to the other side. If the issue still remains on the same side, or the issue is trouble igniting that persists, you are facing an issue with power supply from the wiring.

 

....

After I gave him my results, which were .4 ohms on either side of the wiring, and that the problem followed the ballast, they sent me this:

 

2.

However the result you did get there may be indication that the capacitance that is part of the relayed wiring harness is damaged and not providing its necessary function. To test this for confirmation you can locate the capacitor on the relayed wiring harness (cylinder wrapped in black heat shrink about the size between a "AA" and "C" size battery) and follow the black side wire to the vehicle frame. Remove that ring terminal from the frame and repeat the test steps to find the result.

It would be much more likely for the unit to possibly be damaged or engage its fail-safe rather than a manufacturing defect given the amount of time in use.
There are two options to submit a ballast for testing/inspection to submit a warranty claim with the manufacturer:
1) The first option is to send in the ballast for immediate inspection/testing to have a claim processed the same or next business day upon arrival. Please visit the link below to fill out the online form, print it, and submit it online. The printed copy should be sent in with the ballast as it is required for inspection/testing to be completed and your claim to be submitted to the manufacturer accordingly. Upon claim acceptance, any replacement provided by the manufacturer for a unit covered for manufacturing defect would be issued replacement to be sent immediately.

2) The second option is to request to leave a deposit for a ballast. Kindly let us know the wattage, application and that you have read to understand the disclaimers, and we will send a PayPal invoice to you to send a deposit. A new ballast will be sent to you, at which time you can then submit the suspect unit for the purpose of making a claim using the online form, printing it, and submitting it online. The printed copy should be sent in with the ballast as it is required for inspection/testing to be completed and your claim to be submitted to the manufacturer accordingly. Upon claim acceptance, any replacement provided by the manufacturer for a unit covered for manufacturing defect would be issued refund of deposit left for the unit already received.

.....

 

I don't have time today to do the measurements, but I didn't know if anyone had some similar experiences that could give me some insight as to whether I should ditch RS or go through their return scheme that will most likely determine that they aren't at fault, and I need to buy a new ballast.

[PrinzII]

Wannabang, I am going through a ballast issue with my vendor but he's sending me a new one along with two bulbs (not free due to them being out of warranty). But judging by what I read, that's a little too much just to verify that a ballast has gone bad when all that may be required is to switch the ballasts around to see if that's the culprit. In fact, it reminds me of toning a network jack.

 

The next question is how much they are charging for that ballast. Are you still within warranty?

[wannabang]

I don't believe I'm in warranty. They suspect the capaciter, so they are sending me a new ballast and capaciter at factory pricing. ~$37 for both. They will then determine if the dead ballast I send them is dead because of something I did, or a defect, and if a defect, they will refund my payment.

 

So goes the world. Probably will ignore "kits" next time I buy HIDs, and retrofit in the future.