How To: Replace Door Latch Module for Door Ajar Warning

[12Edge]

I made a quick post verbally explaining how to take apart the door to get at the latch module. Since then I have tried the lubricant and cleaner sprays but the problem does now go away. I finally bought the latch module itself, Levittown had it for $75.

 

What follows is a photographic explanation on how to take apart a door to get at the driver door latch module. These instructions were made with my 2012 Edge that has keyed locks on the drivers door, not the remote sensor lock mechanism and a keyless entry pad on the door. At some point I will take apart the old door module and put up a postmortem. You can actually see the micro switch and I could hear it "clicking" as I moved its mechanism so I don't know what it could be

 

Step 1: Remove Trim and window buttons to gain access to screws:

 

Step 2: Remove perimeter door trim screws:

 

Step 3: Disconnect window switches and main bolts attaching door trim:

 

4: Remove Door Trim and disconnect internal wires:

 

5: Loosen the window saddle bolts. You will need to raise/lower the window to bring them in to view of the access ports.

When installing Torque to 7Nm or 63 lb-in or just over 5 lb-ft, this is out of the Ford service manual

 

6: Separate window glass from door module and tape closed:

 

7: Remove bolts for door handle and door latch:

EDIT - You may only have to loosen the bolt in the center photo as I think it just presses against the plastic of the handle, it didnt actually go through it?! Try that first?

 

8: Remove the door handle:

 

Video of how to take out door handle:

http://s645.photobucket.com/user/SparkyDClown/media/EdgeLatchModule/VIDEO0069_zps9213ecfd.mp4.html

 

 

9: Detach wires from mirror and door so it can move freely:

 

10: Removal of door module. This was a bit tricky. I had to wiggle and shift the module around as the latch parts are still recessed towards the edge of the door. The window regulator arms also protrude and can scratch so do this carefully and don't force anything! I got the best results by sliding it to the right and down slowly:

 

11: Removing the Latch Module from the Door Module:

 

12: Linkages on latch module:

 

TIPS for reassembly:

 

ORIGINAL FULL SIZE/QUALITY PHOTOS CAN BE VIEWED HERE:

http://s645.photobucket.com/user/SparkyDClown/library/EdgeLatchModule/EdgeLatchRaw?sort=3&page=1

Edited March 19, 2014 by 12Edge

[12Edge]

The service manual recommends that the window be programmed for auto up and down. If you find the auto up/down not working the way to set it is to put the window all the way up manually then pull power after you press the auto down. I had left the button control piece hanging loose out of the door and inserted the plug under the windows buttons but not snapped it in. Then I set the window in motion and pulled the plug out.

 

Plug it back in and put the window all the way up. Press and hold down until the window hits bottom and hold it for 1/2 second longer and release. Do the same going back up. Auto up/down should work.

Edited March 18, 2014 by 12Edge

[12Edge]

Saved

[ls973800]

12Edge, very nice write up and great pictures. I know there are many people who have this problem and hopefully some of them will now be able to do it themselves instead of paying dealer prices for the fix.

 

I am saving a copy of this for the future if I ever need it. I have the factory extended warranty so it shouldn't be a problem for me, but who knows how long I will keep the Edge (7 year extended warranty).

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Keep 'em coming, 12Edge. Your How-To's are quite the read.

[kkrace]

I wish I was able to find this a week ago. I just posted a video based on some written instructions I found on the forum here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODFY9TS6GsY

Or you can go to youtube and search under 2012 Ford Edge Door Latch replacement

 

I would like to add that both your photo instructions and the written ones said you have to remove the Torx screw behind the rubber plug on the end of the door and be careful not to drop it. You just need to loosen the screw a few turns until it releases its hold on the trim piece surrounding the key lock opening.

Edited March 26, 2014 by kkrace

[kkrace]

If you decide not to watch the video I made make sure you be really carefull when you tighten the "perimeter" bolts to do it by hand and not much more than finger tight. I had to do mine twice and two of the threaded inserts came loose after I tightened them the first time and I barely tighted them at all. Pain in the ass to cut the heads off the bolts and tig weld the inserts back in place. I was lucky to have everything handy to repair the inserts.

[Cellbine]

Just saw this write up, thanks for making it! I'm sure it will help people out that are out of warranty.

[12Edge]

I wish I was able to find this a week ago. I just posted a video based on some written instructions I found on the forum here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODFY9TS6GsY

Or you can go to youtube and search under 2012 Ford Edge Door Latch replacement

 

I would like to add that both your photo instructions and the written ones said you have to remove the Torx screw behind the rubber plug on the end of the door and be careful not to drop it. You just need to loosen the screw a few turns until it releases its hold on the trim piece surrounding the key lock opening.

kkrace,

 

Thanks for the feedback. I had suspected that the bolt for the handle might just have to be loosened. At some point I edited post 1 to include try loosening it.

 

I didn't have an issue with the door module perimeter bolts. I just tightened them with a ratchet until they felt good and snug. I didn't see a torque spec in the service manual. Just the one on the window.

 

Great video! Always good to have corroboration. There is enough info here we should be able to get folks through a replacement if they are adventurous enough.

[kkrace]

kkrace,

 

Thanks for the feedback. I had suspected that the bolt for the handle might just have to be loosened. At some point I edited post 1 to include try loosening it.

 

I didn't have an issue with the door module perimeter bolts. I just tightened them with a ratchet until they felt good and snug. I didn't see a torque spec in the service manual. Just the one on the window.

 

Great video! Always good to have corroboration. There is enough info here we should be able to get folks through a replacement if they are adventurous enough.

You won't know if you overtightened them until you try to loosen them. I wouldn't have known if the new latch wasn't defective and I had to take it apart again.

[Okstate2011]

I am having this problem as well. I called the dealer, they quoted me $550 (parts $125) to replace the latch. I figure I could save $425 and do it myself. I cant believe this is not a recall. My doors will not lock while moving and my kids can open the doors (I know there are child locks, but I should not have to use those 24/7). I will be using this write up very soon. Thanks

Edited May 27, 2014 by Okstate2011

[tathanas]

kkrace thank you, was dumbfounded on the steps to losen the window until I saw your video, and also ran into the bolt issue where the bolts were turning on themselves as the weld had broken. that was not fun. in the end, I purchased the door latch and was able to re-install and then re-calibrate the window.

thanks again.

[chrisin Chambly]

isn't this issue covered under warranty?? started having this problem this week, I have a 2013 Edge with barely 18000 miles.

[chrisin Chambly]

Just returned from dealership, they changed the sensor module under warranty All is good between my Edge and I.

[robbie124]

have a 2012 Edge limited and i have the same issue. the door shows ajar ALL The time, and to make it worse i can't use intelligent key features such as remote start etc. Because the door shows ajar. I would love for someone from ford to contact me about this before I take to other social media sites to vent my frustration. There is no reason a 2 year old car with just over 40K miles on it should have this kind of issue. I don't know why they don't send out a recall or at least offer to fix it. The consumer should not have to pay for something that is an obvious issue that appears to be prevalent to numerous car owners and is addressed in a TSB.

[twintornados]

My 2011 MKX began exibiting the dreaded "driver door ajar" message in the dash.....first appeared about a month or two after I bought the car and they performed a "clean and reset" service to the door assembly and it worked fine, for a while. About 3-4 weeks ago, it began doing it again, so I brought it back to the dealer. This trip, they replaced the latch assembly (BT4Z-7821813-B ) under warranty. No problems....but.....a few days later, the door began to "whistle" when the HVAC fan was running....several return trips to the dealer for them to fix it. Very frustrating since it is one of those "whistling" noises that some cannot detect, but every time I had it in, they graciously offered me a loaner vehicle (always a Lincoln I would like to point out) Well...they finally tracked the problem to the ventilation tube in the door for the side glass defrosting vent....apparently, the tech that did the original job did not re-attach the door panel correctly making the fit a little loose internally...this caused a gap in the seam where the vent transitions from the dash to the door inside the panel and caused the HVAC system to push air between the panel and the door itself where it would escape from the inside rubber window seal causing the "whistling" sound. The dealership re-sealed the tube while there as well.

All in all, I would say I am satisfied with the way the dealer accomodated me with the loaner and kept at it instead of trying to blow me off....but if any of you are going to attempt the repair yourself, make sure you get those vent tubes sealed back up and the door panel is back on 100%. If not, you might get some whistling sounds coming from the door area.

Edited November 9, 2014 by twintornados

[dynamix1]

I was looking to replace this latch, I have 2013 Edge that of course is out of warranty and the part number that I can up with for the latch was 8T4Z7821812A. Can anyone confirm that this is the correct number for the driver side latch. Thanks.

Edited March 21, 2015 by dynamix1

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

These are the two part numbers I got for the 2007:

7T4Z-7821812-B

Latch Location: Passenger Side

Replaced by: 8T4Z-7821812-A 1 $126.37 $89.47

7T4Z-7821813-C

Latch Location: Driver Side

Replaced by: 8T4Z-7821813-A 1 $121.05 $85.70

 

This is what the driver's side one looks like:

 

Passenger side:

Edited March 21, 2015 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W

[blk98veng]

This "how to" is great. I just replaced my driver side latch and without this tutorial it would have been a much harder job. All said it took about an hour and a half. I do find it unacceptable that a vehicle with 20k miles already has this type of problem. Unfortunately for me I have a 2011 and it's out of warranty. Ford should defiantly redesign the switch. I have the feeling I'm going to be doing this same thing again in another 20k miles. I'm a nerdy engineer so I disassembled the latch to see what the issue might be. I thought that the switching contacts might become corroded but once it was disassembled it's not a corrosion issue as it's a completely sealed unit. (in theory the WD-40 trick shouldn't work). I cut the switch in half and the actually switching components and springs are microscopic, my theory is that the small switches just can't handle the repetitive switching that the doors see and eventually they bend and don't work. below is a photo of the switch and the internal switching contacts.

Edited March 29, 2015 by blk98veng

[genus727]

Thanks for disassembling the latch and switch. I have been looking all over to find a picture of what the actual problem is. I am also an engineer and just replacing a latch without knowing the root cause irks me pretty hard.

[genus727]

Is this the latch you all are using to replace the existing one on the driver side? It says its for a 2012, but I would think its a universal-fit part that will work with my 2011 edge.

 

https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=store.PartInfo&PartNumber=8T4Z7821813A&VehicleID=379034&diagram=MS11545&Title%3D-w%2Fo-key-fob%2Fid-card-LATCH

[dynamix1]

Just wanted to do a follow up and a "BIG THANKS" to 12 Edge for the pictorial which was amazingly helpfull in replacing this latch. $85 and 2hrs later, all was right with the door ajar warning. Just going back to what was said about programming the auto up/down of the window I notice that in the window controls when I just plugged in the from window control that auto up/down was not working, but when the back controls were connected as well auto up/down was working. Seems all the windows connections need to be connected for the auto up/down to function. I did remove the back controls and tried again by removing the back window control and auto up/down was not working. Reconnected and it was fine. That's just my input if it's useful to anyone. Thanks.

Edited April 22, 2015 by dynamix1

[Haggertus]

Thanks for posting this guide. I replaced my module today.

 

I did run into an issue though. When pulling the inner panel off I heard something drop. I found a spring about 1 inch in size inside the door. I'm guessing it has something to do with the exterior door handle. When I put everything back together it no longer goes back to the closed position.

 

Does anyone know where this spring goes? Thanks!

[Haggertus]

I figured it out. It wasn't until I got the panel back on that I thought about taking a pic. Sorry. I got a hint by watching kkrace's video for any springs in the handle assembly. Here's what I found.

 

 

I refused to give Ford any money for this fix so I bought a 3rd party part off of Amazon for $50. It worked in my 2011 just fine even though Amazon says it won't fit. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HRSSSCA/

 

Thanks again for the post.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Hmmm. It shows a fit for my 2007. Interesting. Great you got it figured out