macbwt Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 The great thing about the auto skills center is they have mechanics working on cars there and if you get in over your head you can call in the calvary to rescue you. Lifts, tools, special tools, etc. all available. This job is nothing more than having one of those presses that are a kit with different adapters. Plus the shop has the hydraulic press for the wheel bearings. I originally thought you could not remove the ball joints (ford you can not) Moog provides the ball joints as a press in so this is actually a better system then the Ford part. 50 bucks for both sides vice the 500 dollars for the ford option. The control arm bushings are not worn. So the control arm is in great shape just the ball joint is worn out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Full speed ahead, matey! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 This also provides me with two different repair videos for the lower control arms. Full replacement and ball joint only replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ls973800 Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Hey look what I found on Rockauto.com I can just buy the ball joint for my Moog control arm and do not have to buy the whole control arm. The autoskills center has the pressing tools so this may have just become easier. I will check it out further later next week. I was going to say that even though the ball joint is a part of the control arm, many times just the ball joint can be replaced. You mention that yours will just press out. Many times the ball joint is riveted in place, and the three rivets have to be drilled out. Replacement bolts are then used in place of the rivets when a new ball joint is installed. I'm not sure if the ball joint still has to be pressed out once the rivets are drilled out, but I don't think so. Moog was always the name to trust when I was growing up and working on cars. I have read on various forums now that their quality and durability has gone down hill since a chapter 11 reorganization around 2011. Really can't say since I haven't had to do suspension work now for well over 15 years. Not sure about the replacement LCA unit you used to replace the worn factory ball joint originally, but replacements (especially the pressed in or riveted type) usually come with a grease fitting which factory units lacked. One good advantage when replacing them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 The original moog control arm was greaseless. The press in part has a grease insert. I am finding out quality on most replacement parts is for a better word "crap" I guess they would work for a normal driver, but they just do not last for my driving requirements. I always thought Moog was good also. I have cancelled my work today just to reduce the chance of the part failing and seperating. Live to fight another day as they say. My wife says God will help me and keep me safe. I say God gave me the common sense to know when to stop and take care of things. So I am easing back and today got good news. The part will arrive tomorrow so Saturday I can install the new control arm and will order the press in ball joint for the left side. I was going to say that even though the ball joint is a part of the control arm, many times just the ball joint can be replaced. You mention that yours will just press out. Many times the ball joint is riveted in place, and the three rivets have to be drilled out. Replacement bolts are then used in place of the rivets when a new ball joint is installed. I'm not sure if the ball joint still has to be pressed out once the rivets are drilled out, but I don't think so. Moog was always the name to trust when I was growing up and working on cars. I have read on various forums now that their quality and durability has gone down hill since a chapter 11 reorganization around 2011. Really can't say since I haven't had to do suspension work now for well over 15 years. Not sure about the replacement LCA unit you used to replace the worn factory ball joint originally, but replacements (especially the pressed in or riveted type) usually come with a grease fitting which factory units lacked. One good advantage when replacing them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Had put Moog swaybar endlinks on my SHO three years ago, only to have them snap within 6 months. Not like I was busy canyon carving either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 (edited) Leave the drag racing to the younger folks then you won't break the sway bar links. Mine are masterpro sway bar links. I liked how they looked compared to the moog's The masterpro's just looked stronger. These days I do not believe there is quality only quantity. Sellers warranty the parts but play the odds that most folks will not call on the warranty for replacements even after failure. everything is stamped china and the quality from china is some of the lowest quality you can get IMO. To me it just seems like I am replacing parts after only 6 to 18 months after installation. Anywhere from 30k to 100K miles something is needing replaced. everything original on the car started to show wear at about 145K I guess I am being too critical sometimes as for most people these parts would last years (5-6) I always have to remember my miles are not the normal persons miles. Had put Moog swaybar endlinks on my SHO three years ago, only to have them snap within 6 months. Not like I was busy canyon carving either. Edited March 12, 2015 by macbwt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Cost estimate for the right side control arm and sway bar link. Lower control arm $75.00 Moog Sway bar link $24.00 Master pro I think I will verify when I pick it up tomorrow. Shop fees estimate $20.00 Estimated total $119.00 Note: shop fee may be higher for more time depending on the amount of time I spend for camera set up and recording. Usually adds about an hour to the real time that it takes. I may get lucky and have someone to help record. Not sure what the garages charge for laber/etc. but I am willing to bet at least around 350-400 for this job. Might be less, but the last one I had done included a strut and was 450 for just labor plus tax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted March 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 Lower control arm arrived today and I picked up the sway bar link. I think I will try to remove the sway bar link and reuse it but if it gets difficult I will cut it off. Just as I arrived home my right rear blinker bulb stopped working so now I will be changing that out along with the left rear. If one goes the other is sure to be close behind. Stand by for the video I have asked the Rear lift Support video girls if she is willing to help and this time she is excited about being the camera girl. So I get to use both hands and we can get some close ups of what I am doing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted March 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 OK I admit it the fuel cap warning light is driving me nuts. It just turns on and glows at me all the time. It is almost like it is taunting me to tear apart the entire system to find out why the light is on. Might have to go buy a cigar and blow smoke through the line to find a leak then again a lit cigar and fuel most likely do not mix. Any ideas or anyone experienced this as this gas cap was newly installed in October. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted March 14, 2015 Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 (edited) The FSM uses the upper quick connect coupling on the EVAP Canister Purge Valve (mounted on the firewall) + smoke machine + IDS to diagnose the system. I don't know if there is an easy equivalent to the vacuum leak test with smoke in the intake for the EVAP system. Check underneath for any damage to the vent lines/canister. The fuel cap area at the filler neck/flap may be dirty and in need of cleaning. Or the purge solenoid may finally be past its' prime. On older cars (pre OBD2) if the purge valve was at fault, the fix (temporary or permanent) would be to bypass the valve completely and connect the 2 hoses to each other directly so the purge is happening all the time. IDK if this would create problems on the Edge or not. Edited March 14, 2015 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted March 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 (edited) I find it strange that the the fuel cap light went off when it became cold last fall. Stayed off all winter. Then came back on once the temp rose up again. I feel that the issue is not the fuel cap as it can not possibly be cleaned any more. I cleaned it better than my wife keeps the kitchen. Once i get the Edge road worthy I will address it and see what the true problem is. Right now it runs without and issue so whatever the problem is it is not currently affecting the engine operation or fuel mileage. So to that end it tells me it is and EPA issue and not really a problem. Edited March 14, 2015 by macbwt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted March 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 (edited) Preview of the LCA on the right side. Quote: Mercy; "Daddy you are saying a lot of bad words" Yep this job I thought would be two hours turned into almost six hours. Nothing is as it appears. Video to come but be sure it contains violence, destruction and many beatings with lots of force until something gives. Edited March 14, 2015 by macbwt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted March 14, 2015 Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 You do things the old-fashioned way, you earn it! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted March 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 Soon to be finished the 2008 Ford Edge Right side Lower Control Arm removal and replacement video. Over 6 hours just to edit this video and then render it to a finished format. If you plan on replacing your LCA yourself this video is for you as it will show you what to prepare for and parts needed. This video is a worse case repair example as major problems were encountered. I will upload and place in online yet tonight after the rendering is finish and the upload to youtube is completed. Please give Mercy Girl special thanks for all the camera work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted March 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 (edited) Here it is folks.31 minutes or so of video. Keep in mind the length is due to the very difficult removal of the lower control arm that required inventive and forceful removal. The MOOG LCA I installed on the right side was the third LCA for this side. I guess I am averaging 90k per LCA before replacement. Most DIY'ers in their driveway would not have the tools/equipment to perform this should this happen to them as you would need a lift to access and correct the issue I encountered. Be prepared and hopefully everyone learns from my experience. Again a special thanks to Mercygirl the best 12 year old camera girl around. Edited March 15, 2015 by macbwt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 What was your gas cap replacement brand? OEM or ... Here's an article with a diagram of a Stant cap: http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/122014_5.pdf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 (edited) Great camera work, detail & explanation A fun watch for me Very good point about using new hardware (bolts) especially if you are the DIY type. Edited March 15, 2015 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted March 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 The weird thing is I get no vacum hiss or pressure hiss when I remove the gas cap. This definitely indicates a leak as there is no pressure nor is there vacuum. This is a good thing as the tank will not expand nor will it collapse from vacuum issues. At this point all that leaves me with is the EPA issue for reclaimed fuel unless I am missing something it does not affect engine or fuel performance. Just a bothersome light that I need to cover with a piece of black tape. LOL What was your gas cap replacement brand? OEM or ... Here's an article with a diagram of a Stant cap: http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/122014_5.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted March 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 That 3.5 in the intro sounds good yet huh. Might not be as quiet as some but she still runs good after all those miles. Great camera work, detail & explanation A fun watch for me Very good point about using new hardware (bolts) especially if you are the DIY type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 It does! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted March 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 300 mile drive today and handled great. The repairs are good. Now to attack the rear shock problem first. Seems my rear left KYB shock has sprung a leak and is bad causing tire wear. Time to go back to the monroes as I though KYB was supposed to be good, but apparently they leak. Estimate miles on it is about 80k miles maybe a 100k I forget. Time to change them anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted March 16, 2015 Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 Do I feel another Mercy Girl Production coming up? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted March 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 Thanks for the support and Mercy Girl (spring break) was with me and your note just bought me another acceptance to making another video with dad repairing the 2008 Ford Edge. Got to get parts etc. lined up then another one will be coming. Do I feel another Mercy Girl Production coming up? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted March 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 The next video we will change vintage. It will be on the 2011 with a rear tail light change/comparison. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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