macbwt Posted May 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 A video showing the Orange Crush doing what it does best. Getting me to my client and picking up that precious cargo as the end of the day. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted May 16, 2015 Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 Rather fun watching the whole thing! Around here, we'd have to speed up the video just to get to a "normal" pace :P 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted May 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 (edited) Need some advice on the orange crush. I have been having some really heavy torque steer to the right on acceleration. I also have some noise when shifting into reverse and then drive. My assumption is leaning towards either engine mounts or transmission mounts or both. Things just feel loose in the engine and tranny. Go figure it's not like I am driving this Orange Crush into the dirt. Anyway any ideas? How do I ultimately determine if I have mount issues? I feel like this is a two person diagnosis. Edited May 21, 2015 by macbwt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted May 21, 2015 Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 If it's the motor mounts, then if you watch the engine when you have it in Park or Neutral and rev it, the engine will move a bit. That's the easiest way to tell. If the subframe bushings are shot, then you will find it "noisy"/clunky especially when accelerating into turns, but hard acceleration for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted May 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 OK the sub frame bushing (symptoms) you mentioned almost exactly the issue I am experiencing. Now an amateur question. Where the heck are those located? and what is the exact name (term) for those parts? Lastly how difficult to replace? Please note I am the type to tear into it but would like a to make sure that once I begin digging the hole that I can actually get out of the hole. Or are subframe mounts the same term for transmission mounts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted May 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 Ok, I know where the top left (passenger side) engine mount is located and believe there is a transmission (dog bone shaped) mount underside on the drivers side which for most purposes I will call the transmission mount. That being said how many mounts are there and I know I am missing one on the drivers side somewhere. I am also assuming some dis assembly is required to get to the drivers side mount. To replace these part it looks like it could be around 200 or more for all the mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted May 21, 2015 Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 (edited) My personal advice is to leave this to the professionals, but that's me You have access to pros + lift at the shop, so ... Here's a pic of the engine mount Oil Pan Holding Fixture 303-1295 Item Part Number Description 1 W807658 Degas bottle-to-fender bolt (2 required) 2 W709603 Degas bottle-to-washer bottle bolt 3 8A080 Degas bottle 4 W520102 Engine mount brace nut 5 6K075 Engine mount brace 6 W712334 Engine mount-to-engine nut (4 required) 7 W712511 Engine mount brace bolt 8 W712507 Engine mount-to-frame bolt (3 required) 9 6F012 Engine mount Removal and Installation With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 . Loosen the exhaust flexible pipe clamp and disconnect the 2 exhaust hangers. To install, tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft). Remove the 4 nuts, the exhaust flexible pipe and the Y-pipe as an assembly. Discard the nuts and the gasket. To install, tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft). Remove the 2 nuts and the roll restrictor heat shield. To install, tighten to 11 Nm (8 lb-ft). Loosen the roll restrictor-to-subframe through bolt. To install, tighten to 103 Nm (76 lb-ft). Remove the roll restrictor through bolt and the 2 roll restrictor-to-transaxle bracket plate bolts. To install, tighten to 90 Nm (66 lb-ft). Remove the 3 bolts and the transaxle bracket. To install, tighten to 90 Nm (66 lb-ft). CAUTION: The special tool must be carefully aligned to the mounting bosses on the oil pan. Failure to follow these instructions may result in damage to the oil pan. Position a floor jack and the special tool under the oil pan. Remove the 3 bolts and position the engine coolant degas bottle aside. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in). Remove the nut, bolt and engine mount brace. To install, tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft). Remove the 4 engine mount nuts. To install, tighten to 63 Nm (46 lb-ft). Remove the 3 bolts and the engine mount. To install, tighten to 90 Nm (66 lb-ft). To install, reverse the removal procedure. Edited May 21, 2015 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted May 21, 2015 Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 (edited) Transaxle Support Insulator (looks worse than it is by number of steps (installation is mostly reversal of removal) but that's the way the FSM says) Special Tool(s) Oil Pan Holding Fixture 303-1295 Item Part Number Description 1 14A464 Electrical connector — mass air flow (MAF) sensor 2 6758 Tube assembly — crankcase vent 3 N606678 Bolt — air cleaner bracket 4 9C632 Clamp — air cleaner outlet pipe 5 9C662 Air cleaner assembly 6 13A506 Fastener — wiring harness 7 13A506 Fastener — wiring harness 8 W503924 Bolts — battery tray 9 10723 Battery tray 10 W711873 Through bolt — transaxle support insulator 11 W709234 Bolts — transaxle support insulator (4 required) 12 6F020 Transaxle support insulator Removal With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .Loosen the exhaust flexible pipe clamp and disconnect the 2 exhaust hangers. Remove the 4 nuts and the exhaust flexible pipe and Y-pipe as an assembly. Discard the nuts and the gasket. Remove the 2 nuts and the roll restrictor heat shield. Loosen the engine roll restrictor-to-subframe through bolt. Remove the 3 bolts from the roll restrictor bracket. Remove the 3 bolts and the roll restrictor bracket. Disconnect the mass air flow (MAF) sensor electrical connector and the wiring harness fastener from the air cleaner assembly. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose from the air cleaner outlet pipe. Disconnect the engine breather from the air cleaner assembly. Remove the air cleaner assembly bracket bolt. Loosen the air cleaner outlet pipe clamp at the throttle body and remove the air cleaner and air cleaner outlet pipe assembly. Remove the battery. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 . Remove the battery tray. Disconnect the wiring harness fasteners. Remove the 3 bolts and the battery tray. CAUTION: The special tool must be carefully aligned to the mounting bosses on the oil pan. Failure to follow these instructions may result in damage to the oil pan. NOTE: The special tool and floor jack are used to raise and lower the engine to access the engine front cover and engine mount bracket fasteners. Position a floor jack and the special tool under the oil pan and raise the floor jack high enough to release the pressure on the transaxle support insulator. Remove the transaxle support insulator through bolt. Remove the 3 nuts, the bolt and the transaxle support insulator bracket. Lower the jack until the transmission fluid cooler tube clears the lower transmission support insulator bolts. Loosen the battery tray support bracket bolts. Remove the top transaxle support insulator bolts. Remove the bottom transaxle support insulator bolts. Installation Install the bottom transaxle support insulator bolts. Tighten to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft). Install the top transaxle support insulator bolts. Tighten to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft). Tighten the battery tray support bracket bolts. Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in). Using the jack, lift the transaxle into place. Install the transaxle support insulator bracket, install the bolt and the 3 nuts. Tighten to 63 Nm (46 lb-ft). Install the transaxle support insulator through bolt. Tighten to 175 Nm (129 lb-ft). Install the battery tray. Install the 3 bolts. Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in). Connect the wiring harness fasteners to the battery tray. Install the battery. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 . Position the air cleaner assembly in place and install the bolt. Tighten to 11 Nm (8 lb-ft). Tighten the air cleaner outlet pipe clamp at the throttle body. Tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in). Connect the engine breather to the air cleaner assembly. Connect the brake booster vacuum hose to the air cleaner assembly. Connect the MAF sensor electrical connector and connect the electrical harness fastener. Check the transmission fluid level and fill with clean automatic transmission fluid to the correct level. Position the roll restrictor bracket on the transaxle and install the 3 bolts. Tighten to 90 Nm (66 lb-ft). Position the roll restrictor in place, install the bracket and the 3 bolts. Tighten to 90 Nm (66 lb-ft). Install the engine roll restrictor-to-subframe through bolt. Tighten to 103 Nm (76 lb-ft). Install the roll restrictor heat shield and the 2 nuts. Tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in). Position the exhaust Y-pipe assembly in place and install the 4 nuts. Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft). Install the 2 exhaust hangers and tighten the exhaust clamp. Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft). Edited May 21, 2015 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted May 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 LOL I am just the person to try....at least I will have a fall back plan....Then again I will never know if I do not at least try. My personal advice is to leave this to the professionals, but that's me You have access to pros + lift at the shop, so ... Here's a pic of the engine mount 2007 Ford Edge Engine Mount.jpg Oil Pan Holding Fixture 303-1295 Item Part Number Description 1 W807658 Degas bottle-to-fender bolt (2 required) 2 W709603 Degas bottle-to-washer bottle bolt 3 8A080 Degas bottle 4 W520102 Engine mount brace nut 5 6K075 Engine mount brace 6 W712334 Engine mount-to-engine nut (4 required) 7 W712511 Engine mount brace bolt 8 W712507 Engine mount-to-frame bolt (3 required) 9 6F012 Engine mount Removal and Installation With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 . Loosen the exhaust flexible pipe clamp and disconnect the 2 exhaust hangers. To install, tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft). Remove the 4 nuts, the exhaust flexible pipe and the Y-pipe as an assembly. Discard the nuts and the gasket. To install, tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft). Remove the 2 nuts and the roll restrictor heat shield. To install, tighten to 11 Nm (8 lb-ft). Loosen the roll restrictor-to-subframe through bolt. To install, tighten to 103 Nm (76 lb-ft). Remove the roll restrictor through bolt and the 2 roll restrictor-to-transaxle bracket plate bolts. To install, tighten to 90 Nm (66 lb-ft). Remove the 3 bolts and the transaxle bracket. To install, tighten to 90 Nm (66 lb-ft). CAUTION: The special tool must be carefully aligned to the mounting bosses on the oil pan. Failure to follow these instructions may result in damage to the oil pan. Position a floor jack and the special tool under the oil pan. Remove the 3 bolts and position the engine coolant degas bottle aside. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in). Remove the nut, bolt and engine mount brace. To install, tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft). Remove the 4 engine mount nuts. To install, tighten to 63 Nm (46 lb-ft). Remove the 3 bolts and the engine mount. To install, tighten to 90 Nm (66 lb-ft). To install, reverse the removal procedure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted May 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 I feel an engine and transmission mount diagnostics video forming in my head. Wonder is MercyGirl will be available? I guess I will have to turn off the wifi in the house this would get me immediate attention. LOL 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted May 22, 2015 Report Share Posted May 22, 2015 Ummm ... yeah ... no, I would NOT turn off the wifi in the house. That's like extracting a tooth without painkiller for some people! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted May 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2015 I am going to look at the transmission torque strut (dog bone) and do some shift movements and see how much it moves. That part looks fairly straight forward but the exhaust may have to be loosened or remove to remove the bolts. If this is the case then I will also need new bolts and a gasket. Not sure if the exhaust gaskets and bolt will play fair after almost 300K miles. Note I do like the instructions about the "special tool" I translate that to a "floor jack with a piece of wood" so that you do not punch a hole into the oil pan when you jack up the engine to relieve pressure on the mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted May 22, 2015 Report Share Posted May 22, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted May 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2015 (edited) As soon as I get done negotiating with MercyGirl's union rep (Mom) seems she has concerns about shifting vehicles and video cameras under the Orange Crush. MOMOSHA is worse than OSHA. Edited May 22, 2015 by macbwt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted May 22, 2015 Report Share Posted May 22, 2015 What MOMOSHA doesn't know won't hurt you....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted May 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2015 (edited) MOMOSHA has eyes in the front and back and at least four ears with a sixth sense that matches no other....Plus I wanted to do this in the driveway. LOL What MOMOSHA doesn't know won't hurt you....... Edited May 22, 2015 by macbwt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted May 22, 2015 Report Share Posted May 22, 2015 Well, I hope you can negotiate a way to surMOUNT this problem! ok ok don't hit me! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted May 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 Yep always a way. MOMOSHA is leaving this morning and I am in charge. LOL what she does not know will not......besides we will have fun since Dad sometimes has less rules. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted May 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 I got caught!!! MOMOSHA took the place of MercyGirl (banished to her room to complete her homework) and on top of it Tati sat off to the side and acted as an independent observer. Anyway. Loud clanking noise from the top right main engine mount on video. The Transmission torque mount (dog bone) moves about two to three inches (definitely no good) got that on video also. Both most likely need to be replaced with the priority going to the transmission torque mount as it is moving the most. Now to get some funds together to order the parts and get them replaced. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted May 23, 2015 Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 Us bozos always underestimates 'em wimminfolks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted May 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 Watch and let me know. The mounts appear to have gone just about as far as they can. Time to replace them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted May 23, 2015 Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 No question some trans mounts at least are in order. That deer hit probably pushed it over the ..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted May 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 (edited) This is what I am looking at through Rockauto. Funny thing is while looking at other parts they all seemed to have almost the same part numbers in many ways to the Anchor Mfg part numbers. Did not really matter who was selling just a very similar part number so I am assuming very few manufacturers, but a lot of vendors selling the same part. ANCHOR Part # 3144 [Private Label Package] (Only 4 Remaining) $33.89 $33.89 Engine : Motor Mount ANCHOR Part # 3180 [Private Label Package] (Only 4 Remaining) Front Right $42.79 $42.79 Subtotal $76.68 Edited May 24, 2015 by macbwt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted May 25, 2015 Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 (edited) OEM is relatively expensive, but then, truthfully, I haven't heard much good about Anchor parts. They die easily! That's why I had the original mounts on my '95 rebuilt instead. Don't see that option for the Edge yet. I checked Levittown's site and saw TWO engine mounts listed, the FSM shows only one: No. Part # Part # / Description List Price Price 1 8T4Z-6038-A 8T4Z-6038-A / FRONT MOUNT, RIGHT $175.90 $119.26 2 7A1Z-6038-AA 7A1Z-6038-AA / FRONT MOUNT, LEFT $136.23 $ 92.37 Transmission Mount (build date dependent) but the B part should be fine for all: 9 8T4Z6068A 8T4Z6068A / TRANS MOUNT TO 1/10/08 UNAVAILABLE 9 8T4Z-6068-B 8T4Z-6068-B / TRANS MOUNT $91.53 $62.06 FROM 1/11/08 Edited May 25, 2015 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted May 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 I a suspicious of the aftermarket parts as well from Anchor. A little research has revealed that if this were a repair and sell it situation then no problem. Let the new owner deal with it later. Not the case here for me so I am going to more than likely shoot for the OEM from ford on this one since these are major components of the drive system the smarter choice would be OEM for durability and safety. I may have to do this one at a time as the complete replacement is rather pricy (300.00 or so with tax) plus new bolts/nuts for purchasing all of them at once then replacing. More than likely a two or three part replacement series with MG. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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