How to eliminate (HYPER-FLASHING) without using load resistors? 2013 Edge Sport

[TheWizard]

The two sides have different wire colors but as before, the positions remain constant. For the right side, you want to connect the resistor between the yellow/violet (T/S power) wire and the black/grey (ground) wire. For the left side, you want to connect the resistor between the blue/green (T/S power) wire and the black/green (ground) wire. In both cases, those are the two outer wires in the connector. The center wire (yellow/blue on both sides) is the parking light power.

[BlackEdition]

I DID IT! I finally got rid of that annoying/embarrassing hyperflashing! I can finally turn on the DRLs at daytime instead of turning them off all the time to avoid getting those damn hyperflashes. Thank you my dear sir Wizard for your help You can't imagine how happy I am.

Im now finally 'completely' happy with all the mods I've done so far, especially Dan's taillights with the LED pack for the fronts & rears, which I was not completely satisfied with because of the hyperflashing that ruined the whole experience for me (I know it wasn't Dan's fault).

 

Once again, thank you Wizard

I'll be sure to post some pics and videos soon.

Edited June 7, 2014 by BlackEdition

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Great to hear, BlackEdition! And hats off to the Wizard for his continued valuable insight.

[BlackEdition]

Sorry to choose my own post as "the best answer", couldn't decide which Wizard's post to choose from.

 

I'll hopefully add a new post in the future for some infos (to sum up this whole thread into one post so new visitors/members can reach the info easily).

 

Once again, I thank you Wizard for your continuous help on this. The LEDs are working pefrectly till this day and I couldn't be happier.

Edited June 21, 2014 by BlackEdition

[MichBiz]

Hi BlackEdition - I have the hyper flash issue on my 2013 Edge. Is there anyway you could post the steps you took to fix the hyper flashing? I've read the post and I am inexperienced when it comes to modifications.

[chipworkz]

Since this thread is still going, here is some more info to go alone with all of Wizards great instructions.

 

Along with the diagrams of the wiring and wire colors, I have included the BCM connectors and pin layout. The connector layouts are as if you had the connector unplugged and looking at the front of it. (the side that gets plugged in) So it is basically upside down if you were looking at the BCM with the connectors plugged in to it in the car. So looking at the wire plugged in, C2280C Pin 1 is the lower left corner and C2280F Pin 1 is in the upper left corner.

 

Hope this helps,

 

 

[chrisbritt1995]

I ordered the LED bulbs pack and have put in the front two (I'm waiting to install the rears when I get the LED taillights), and they hyperflashed for a few minutes the first few times I used them, but they mostly don't hyperflash now. Occasionally it'll blink fast a few times and go back to normal, but it's not enough for me to install resistors. BUT, I got some new LED's that Dan said he found that are much brighter/more powerful than the others. Samsung somethings.

[enigma-2]

I'm new to the forum and I guess I really don't understand to the problem, but... I assume the flashing rate speeds up because the mechanical flasher is not drawing enough current.

 

It seems that the fix should be simple enough, why not just switch out the old flasher unit with an electronic one? An electronic flasher (that is a single relay) will flash your lights at the same rate whether they are incandescent or LED.

 

I assume you all thought of this, so what am I missing?

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

There are no more flasher units/relays. All this is integrated into the Body Control Module (BCM). So you have to abide by the rules it expects followed.

[TheWizard]

I'm new to the forum and I guess I really don't understand to the problem, but... I assume the flashing rate speeds up because the mechanical flasher is not drawing enough current.

 

It seems that the fix should be simple enough, why not just switch out the old flasher unit with an electronic one? An electronic flasher (that is a single relay) will flash your lights at the same rate whether they are incandescent or LED.

 

I assume you all thought of this, so what am I missing?

 

Actually, the old thermo-mechanical flashers would usually exhibit the opposite effect when installing LED bulbs (or when a stock bulb burned out)... there would not be enough current draw to heat up the bimetal contact arm so the lights would go on and stay on rather than flashing. Later, a number of manufacturers went to electro-mechanical flashers that would hyper-flash when a bulb was out. Now almost all manufacturers use some sort of electronic control module usually embedded in a more general purpose box like the BCM on the Edge and Explorer (Mustangs still have a stand-alone module but that is because it controls the sequential turn signals). Both the electro-mechanical flashers and the more current electronic control modules were designed specifically to hyper-flash when a bulb is burned out (based on low current draw) to alert the driver to the problem - although it's obvious nobody explained this to most drivers judging by how many you see driving around with hyper-flashing turn signals.

 

You are correct that the low current draw of LED bulbs is what triggers the hyper-flashing but WWWPerfA_ZN0W is correct that there is no traditional flasher that can be replaced to resolve the problem so we have to do things like add load resistors to draw enough current to fool the system.

[inthefuture1955]

Hi,

 

I didn't like the idea of changing settings in the OBD, so I chose to go with Ballast Resistors also. I had no problems with 3157A Canbus-compatible LED's in the rear, but when I put 3157A/W LED Switchbacks in front though, it started hypeflashing, so I added 1 resistor on each side and that resolved the issue.

 

I used Artic Silver Thermal Epoxy (Amazon) to secure each in place to a flat location on the metal of the inner fender well. Wipe the surface with denatured alcohol before applying the epoxy. They need to be held in place for about 5 minutes before the epoxy sets up.The epoxy contains silver to aid heat flow from the resistor to the fender well. The resistors are never on continuously for long enough to become hotter than the sheet metal they are epoxied to. The paint on the fender well will not block the heat flow into the sheet metal and will not be damaged by the heat from the resistors. The resisters themselves are 50 Watts, about the same draw as a standard 3157A incandescent bulb. There is no mechanical or thermal reason not to use resistors if you prefer not to change settings in the OBD system (like me). If you prefer to change settings in the OBD, that is also a suitable option. Whichever you prefer.

 

I have pretty much the entire DriveBright set of lights in my 2013 SEL, starting with the Shadow Black Soprt tail light set http://drivebright.com/home/shop/ford-edge-sport-led-tail-light-set-shadow-black-w-smoked-lens-2011-2014-sale-30-off/. I highly recommend the DriveBright line.

 

2013 Edge SEL AWD, Mineral Gray, DriveBright LED Headlights, DriveBright Shadow Black Sport taillights, DriveBright A/W Lower Valance lights, DriveBright Puddle Lamps, 3157A LED rear lamps, 5000K LED reverse lamps, 3157A/W LED Switchback front lamps and 5000K LED license plate lamps.

Edited September 16, 2018 by inthefuture1955

[inthefuture1955]

Hi,

 

There are flasher units that won't hyperflash with LED's, but UNFORTUNATELY, Ford no longer uses flashers, it is controlled by the Body Control Unit (it also controls the power up sequence) which is located behind the inside fuse block. The Edge has never had a separate flasher.

Edited September 16, 2018 by inthefuture1955