Synthetic Oil

[07 MKX]

Boy's and Girls,

 

The MKX has 2222.4 miles on it. Build date was end of March '07. Dealer has an offer for free oil changes for a year. Call me stupid, but don't call me late for dinner. At my age, the most important thing's in life are food and sleep.

 

So, I've done a lot of researching and have personally decided to start a new OIL regime.. 2 Vehicles... a 2.3L and 3.5L Ford's... 2.3L has less than 4k miles also.

 

I ended up buying 4 Gals. of AMSoil ASM 0W-20 for both. Also the Lincoln will use a EAO34 Oil filter. That oil has a recommended oil change of up to 25K miles. It's sitting in the garage now waiting. Now today I just ordered another 4 gal's of their oil, SSO 5W-30, that can go 35K miles. Those oils will NEVER see that type of mileage, it was bought for the quality of the product.

 

links for you.....

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?Cat=0

http://www.amsoil.com/

 

I will be having oil analysis done on my oil's to see the breakdown's and reports... oh and if you have to ask prices, then you probably can't afford it.

 

The Lincoln is NOT a beater, everyday drive, I have a few others for that. This is one CUV, I am proud of and want to hold onto for a long time. I will dump a lot of money into it, but I know it will never show up when it gets re-sold.

 

A Ford 5W-20 MotorCraft oil is fine and great for everyone. My block commissar said so. But my capitalistic ways, I wanted just a little bit better. I don't know If I will still be around here in the long term future to post reports, as I'm not going to do much driving with it, more than likely - maybe a change once a year. Remember their is no definitive "BEST OIL", the best oil , is whatever works for you.

[Abrannan19]

Boy's and Girls,

 

The MKX has 2222.4 miles on it. Build date was end of March '07. Dealer has an offer for free oil changes for a year. Call me stupid, but don't call me late for dinner. At my age, the most important thing's in life are food and sleep.

 

So, I've done a lot of researching and have personally decided to start a new OIL regime.. 2 Vehicles... a 2.3L and 3.5L Ford's... 2.3L has less than 4k miles also.

 

I ended up buying 4 Gals. of AMSoil ASM 0W-20 for both. Also the Lincoln will use a EAO34 Oil filter. That oil has a recommended oil change of up to 25K miles. It's sitting in the garage now waiting. Now today I just ordered another 4 gal's of their oil, SSO 5W-30, that can go 35K miles. Those oils will NEVER see that type of mileage, it was bought for the quality of the product.

 

links for you.....

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?Cat=0

http://www.amsoil.com/

 

I will be having oil analysis done on my oil's to see the breakdown's and reports... oh and if you have to ask prices, then you probably can't afford it.

 

The Lincoln is NOT a beater, everyday drive, I have a few others for that. This is one CUV, I am proud of and want to hold onto for a long time. I will dump a lot of money into it, but I know it will never show up when it gets re-sold.

 

A Ford 5W-20 MotorCraft oil is fine and great for everyone. My block commissar said so. But my capitalistic ways, I wanted just a little bit better. I don't know If I will still be around here in the long term future to post reports, as I'm not going to do much driving with it, more than likely - maybe a change once a year. Remember their is no definitive "BEST OIL", the best oil , is whatever works for you.

 

 

any particular reason you chose Amsoil over other synthetic oil brands?

 

and what made you choose that weight oil?

 

I am planning on using synthetic too..just wondering what if anything made you chose one over the other or is it just brand loyalty?

Edited October 18, 2007 by Abrannan19

[akirby]

Don't forget the factory motorcraft 5W-20 oil is a synthetic blend already.

[Grey]

Be sure and get a copy of Amsoil's warranty, since you will be out of Ford warranty for lubrication related issues after 7,500 miles.

[Abrannan19]

Don't forget the factory motorcraft 5W-20 oil is a synthetic blend already.

 

 

a synthetic blend and a full synthetic are two different things.

Edited October 18, 2007 by Abrannan19

[Good_Hands]

I did some quick reading about Amsoil - I must say, I am impressed. My Mazda used straight non-synthetic oil so for the last 3 years, I have been uninterested in synthetic oils.

 

I will ask though - Grey has a good point. Even though the Amsoil can go longer than 7500 miles, will you change at that interval just to keep the warranty in tact?

[Abrannan19]

I will ask though - Grey has a good point. Even though the Amsoil can go longer than 7500 miles, will you change at that interval just to keep the warranty in tact?

 

how will the dealer know how many miles you go?

 

also he said he was going that have the oil tested..they will tell you how many more miles the oil is good for or if it needs to be changed because it is breaking down.

 

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gas_engines.html

Edited October 19, 2007 by Abrannan19

[Good_Hands]

how will the dealer know how many miles you go?

 

also he said he was going that have the oil tested..they will tell you how many more miles the oil is good for or if it needs to be changed because it is breaking down.

 

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gas_engines.html

 

Good point. I would just hate to see something bad happen; engine locks up, etc. He takes it into the dealer, they check the oil or computer or ????? and tell him he is out of luck.

[Abrannan19]

Good point. I would just hate to see something bad happen; engine locks up, etc. He takes it into the dealer, they check the oil or computer or ????? and tell him he is out of luck.

 

understood..but the computer inst gonna be able to tell you how long he went between oil change intervals.

 

Also they suggest if you are trying to 'double' your oil change interval that you send in a sample midway..if you are trying to do every 10k send a sample at 5k (described for the stupid people) and they will say yea or nay on doing so. Also with normal driving anyone driving the edge isnt really gonna beat the shit out of it therefore less chance of oil breaking down.

[Good_Hands]

understood..but the computer inst gonna be able to tell you how long he went between oil change intervals.

 

Also they suggest if you are trying to 'double' your oil change interval that you send in a sample midway..if you are trying to do every 10k send a sample at 5k (described for the stupid people) and they will say yea or nay on doing so. Also with normal driving anyone driving the edge isnt really gonna beat the shit out of it therefore less chance of oil breaking down.

 

I thought the same thing but it happened to a friend of mine. He made a few oil changes at 7K and then started having engine problems. He took it in and they told him that he went too long between oil changed.

 

Hey...the black box can do all kinds of things. When it comes to a 30K car, it wouldn't surprise me.

 

Granted, that was a sports car and not a CUV. And you are definitely right - there aren't too many people who are going to abuse their Edge.

 

It's all good.

[Abrannan19]

I thought the same thing but it happened to a friend of mine. He made a few oil changes at 7K and then started having engine problems. He took it in and they told him that he went too long between oil changed.

 

Hey...the black box can do all kinds of things. When it comes to a 30K car, it wouldn't surprise me.

 

Granted, that was a sports car and not a CUV. And you are definitely right - there aren't too many people who are going to abuse their Edge.

 

It's all good.

 

 

gotcha..that black box can do alot..LOL

 

I run Valvoline Premium Blue Full Synthetic in my F350 diesel..its very expensive..but also well worth it..I was planning on doubling but I am at 9k and I think its time to change..I beat the hell out of it on a daily basis..so that could be a very good reason why its breaking down(or seems to be) before 10K..438hp and 859lb ft..its not easy on oil..LOL

[akirby]

a synthetic blend and a full synthetic are two different things.

 

Really? Golly gee Mr. Wizard, I would have never guessed.

 

I was merely pointing out that the factory fill is a synthetic blend and not regular oil, so you're going from a synthetic blend to a full synthetic - not as big of a jump as going from regular oil to full synthetic.

[07 MKX]

any particular reason you chose Amsoil over other synthetic oil brands?

 

and what made you choose that weight oil?

 

I am planning on using synthetic too..just wondering what if anything made you chose one over the other or is it just brand loyalty?

When AMS made their first oil, I was learning about Gas Turbines and knew the advantage's of synthetic right away. I've used the Mobil One, was looking this time at Royal Purple, and guess the Oil Drop site reading, made me decide to go with AMS on this car. Yes, yes, I even tried the Slick 50 in an '88 jeep, and still have a bottle of it, if someone wants it, LOL, what a marketing scam. I always wondered about it at that time. If my first filter, had removed it from the oil, the minute I poured it in.

 

Per the oil drop site... It is a personal preference thing.. AMSoil posts numbers about their oil, they formulate different ones quickly for the market, we're the first to market with a synthetic. Now have a 35K oil. That alone took some engineering to achieve that. These are Group IV oil's.

 

As you see both oil's are actually out of spec. a 0W-20 and a 5W-30. I feel that the oil's are better than what's required to meet the factory spec's/API, due to there TBN's or base numbers. and will outlast the 7K mile limit easily. I am just looking for quality oil to last that long AND longer. Abrannan hit it on the head. He understands. The oil filter is also rated to 25K miles. I can look at it this way, I am actually pouring money away using this oil, but in the long run. the price of the oil means nothing percentage wise to the price of the car. I will be doing the oil change just because I like to, and yes, I'm using Blackstone for the reports. The Lincoln is a toy, it's just to play with, shine up and see what I can do next to it. I get bored easily.

 

I could mix the oil's, but that would screw up judging the reports. If I do a change at 7K, that would be like changing the MotorCraft @ <2K. With an average round trip of 30 miles and garaged and driven 'maybe' once a week. Right now that equals 1500-1700 miles a year. Theoretically a one oil lifetime fill for me possibly. But times will change and I know I will never reach the life of the oil. The 'oil' itself doesn't break down. it's the additive package's that get depleted, and oil contamination that shortens the life of it. I'm still in a learning phase on it, have been for 40 years.

 

As for warranty work at Ford. no one will question it, unless when the pan is dropped it's like molasses inside it. And we should give a little credit to the Edge owners here, we all take good care of our cars, neither I nor you would expect each other to abuse something like the lifeblood of those engines. I just bought a high quality oil and can go an extended time, I wasn't worried about the money on this. If I change the oil at 7K, when it could have gone to 25 or 35K, all I've done was throw away good oil. I will send in a report to see what the oil is like and then decide if it stays or goes.

 

I'll use cheap gas, but expensive oil's. Same as cheap women and expensive liquor.

[ClubwagonXLT]

-

Edited October 21, 2007 by ClubwagonXLT

[Abrannan19]

When AMS made their first oil, I was learning about Gas Turbines and knew the advantage's of synthetic right away. I've used the Mobil One, was looking this time at Royal Purple, and guess the Oil Drop site reading, made me decide to go with AMS on this car. Yes, yes, I even tried the Slick 50 in an '88 jeep, and still have a bottle of it, if someone wants it, LOL, what a marketing scam. I always wondered about it at that time. If my first filter, had removed it from the oil, the minute I poured it in.

 

Per the oil drop site... It is a personal preference thing.. AMSoil posts numbers about their oil, they formulate different ones quickly for the market, we're the first to market with a synthetic. Now have a 35K oil. That alone took some engineering to achieve that. These are Group IV oil's.

 

As you see both oil's are actually out of spec. a 0W-20 and a 5W-30. I feel that the oil's are better than what's required to meet the factory spec's/API, due to there TBN's or base numbers. and will outlast the 7K mile limit easily. I am just looking for quality oil to last that long AND longer. Abrannan hit it on the head. He understands. The oil filter is also rated to 25K miles. I can look at it this way, I am actually pouring money away using this oil, but in the long run. the price of the oil means nothing percentage wise to the price of the car. I will be doing the oil change just because I like to, and yes, I'm using Blackstone for the reports. The Lincoln is a toy, it's just to play with, shine up and see what I can do next to it. I get bored easily.

 

I could mix the oil's, but that would screw up judging the reports. If I do a change at 7K, that would be like changing the MotorCraft @ <2K. With an average round trip of 30 miles and garaged and driven 'maybe' once a week. Right now that equals 1500-1700 miles a year. Theoretically a one oil lifetime fill for me possibly. But times will change and I know I will never reach the life of the oil. The 'oil' itself doesn't break down. it's the additive package's that get depleted, and oil contamination that shortens the life of it. I'm still in a learning phase on it, have been for 40 years.

 

As for warranty work at Ford. no one will question it, unless when the pan is dropped it's like molasses inside it. And we should give a little credit to the Edge owners here, we all take good care of our cars, neither I nor you would expect each other to abuse something like the lifeblood of those engines. I just bought a high quality oil and can go an extended time, I wasn't worried about the money on this. If I change the oil at 7K, when it could have gone to 25 or 35K, all I've done was throw away good oil. I will send in a report to see what the oil is like and then decide if it stays or goes.

 

I'll use cheap gas, but expensive oil's. Same as cheap women and expensive liquor.

 

 

the only problem that I would see if your MKX gets driven so little that even though you may not hit that certain mile marker ie: 7500 or whatever it be..doesn't oil have a certain type of an for lack of a better word 'expiration' date? (for instance if you get your oil changed at say jiffy lube(just for illustration purposes) they always put a certain mileage or date)I am sure that the additives will begin to breakdown..I am speculating that this oil is more directed at the people who drive 100's or 1000's of miles per day or even per week. Therefore they could go longer in between oil change intervals.

 

I know the Jiffy Lube thing is probably just a scam..but whatever.

 

I can say from experience that the Royal Purple IMHO is junk..way overpriced and I surely would never use it again or recommend it. We tried it in out 2003 Supercharged F150..

 

MKX what type of climates are you in? I know that plays a roll what weights you choose. (pretty sure I remeber you talking about snow so I am sure that was one reason)

Edited October 19, 2007 by Abrannan19

[Good_Hands]

And we should give a little credit to the Edge owners here, we all take good care of our cars, neither I nor you would expect each other to abuse something like the lifeblood of those engines. I just bought a high quality oil and can go an extended time, I wasn't worried about the money on this. If I change the oil at 7K, when it could have gone to 25 or 35K, all I've done was throw away good oil. I will send in a report to see what the oil is like and then decide if it stays or goes.

 

I'll use cheap gas, but expensive oil's. Same as cheap women and expensive liquor.

 

I am very interested in seeing how this works out for you. I do agree, almost everyone will take care of their Edge (then again, unless someone sees an Escalade on the road next to them). My dealer tells me to change at 7500, but then the service manager says 5000. I used to changed my 8 (with non-syn) every 3 when Mazda said 5.

 

I'm changing at 5K regardless. I wash it nearly every week. Yes. I baby it.

 

Cheap women and expensive liquor.

 

Been a long while for one.

 

About 14 hours for the other.

[McEdge]

I am very interested in seeing how this works out for you. I do agree, almost everyone will take care of their Edge (then again, unless someone sees an Escalade on the road next to them). My dealer tells me to change at 7500, but then the service manager says 5000. I used to changed my 8 (with non-syn) every 3 when Mazda said 5.

 

I'm changing at 5K regardless. I wash it nearly every week. Yes. I baby it.

 

Cheap women and expensive liquor.

 

Been a long while for one.

 

About 14 hours for the other.

Love the Escalade zinger! I remember that post! LOL!!!

[Grey]

I'm trying to figure out where you would use the 5W-30 Amsoil. It doesn't meet the Ford Spec for the MKX or Edge.

 

Virtually all oils have tracers in them so manufacturers/refiners know if it was their product or not, if there is a problem.

 

The Amsoil 0W20 and the Motorcraft 5W20 have close to the same viscosity at 40 and 100 degrees C.

The 5W30 Amsoil is way too thick for our engines - 10.6 vs. 8.8 at 100 degrees C. and 57.3 vs. 49 at 40 Degrees C.

 

I like the idea of a 0W20, especially in colder climates, to reduce start-up wear. But contrary to popular belief, thicker oil at running temps is not a good idea. Pressure does not = lubrication.

Flow = lubrication. Oil is also part of the cooling system for our engines. Restrict flow and add heat.

 

The engine lubrication engineers at Ford were some of the smartest people I have met. I'm going with their recommendations.

[Good_Hands]

Love the Escalade zinger! I remember that post! LOL!!!

 

Huh? Escalade zinger? What?

 

I simply have no idea to what you are referring.

[jeffreybehr]

Interesting thread. Like 07_MKX, I too have been using the best engine oils money can buy for decades, and I too believe that the price of oil is about zero compared with the price of the vehicle. And just as on Bob Is The Oil Guy.com ( http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php ), there are LOTS on opinions here that are very difficult to substantiate--but PLEASE, no one should read between that line.

 

I used Mobil 1 for a few years, but after learning more on BITOG, I decided to go with a group-IV oil that uses a higher proportion of polyol-ester base stock; I chose Red Line and used that (5W40 and 10W40*) in my Porsche Cayenne Turbo for several years (and it's still using it with its new owner in Tucson). Another thing I like about RL oils is that their only engine oil to require and use viscosity-index improvers is 5W40.

 

At about 4000 miles, I recently drained the Edge's 3rd fill of deaddino oil and filled with RL 5W20, and I'll be using that year-round here in the Arizona desert. I use Mobil 1 oil filters.

 

 

* RL uses no hyphens in their viscosity designations.

Edited October 19, 2007 by jeffreybehr

[07 MKX]

Here's a link to an oil filter study that is appropriate for the subject......

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

Thanks for the link, appropriate, yes, I had also read it and noted it was a little dated, but at least it was some info worth reading. I wish their was something newer.

the only problem that I would see if your MKX gets driven so little that even though you may not hit that certain mile marker ie: 7500 or whatever it be..doesn't oil have a certain type of an for lack of a better word 'expiration' date? (for instance if you get your oil changed at say jiffy lube(just for illustration purposes) they always put a certain mileage or date)I am sure that the additives will begin to breakdown..I am speculating that this oil is more directed at the people who drive 100's or 1000's of miles per day or even per week. Therefore they could go longer in between oil change intervals.

 

I know the Jiffy Lube thing is probably just a scam..but whatever.

 

I can say from experience that the Royal Purple IMHO is junk..way overpriced and I surely would never use it again or recommend it. We tried it in out 2003 Supercharged F150..

 

MKX what type of climates are you in? I know that plays a roll what weights you choose. (pretty sure I remeber you talking about snow so I am sure that was one reason)

I'm in a mild winter climate, we just don't get snow like 20 years ago, anymore. But I keep thinking we will LOL. It's also garaged andwill never see a temp below 50F. I think everyone knows, the Jiffy-Lubes are in business to make money. I even read a thread where a guy, bought his own AMS oil, but found a place to put it in for him, for just $10. Oil's... we learn about them, by word of mouth, advertising, and info past on to us from others. Then we take a chance when we stand in an aisle and look at the different brands, I know I do. Then I decide "Oh Hell, I'll just go with the damn MotorCraft, now what was the weight of that oil I was suppose to use?" I believe it's the start-up cycles, and the cycling of the gears in a transmission that dictate the 'wearing' of oil. IE, driving all day in a big city, vs. 600 miles a day on the Interstate. Pure Interstate driving you could go 10K+ miles on petrol-lube (Group 2 & 3 oil) before an oil change would be needed. The oil will not mildew sitting unused in a crankcase for years. But since the engines are not vacuum-sealed, condensation 'might' be likely to form. Causing oxidation and that will end up in the oil. Filters come into play. Right now, I don't see putting 2K miles on this, so I'm likely to just be throwing away good money, yes. Maybe 5 years from now I might be up to 8K+/yr driving.

 

Go to the oil-drop server and start reading some of those oil reports people are getting on their mileage of synthetic oil's. It will impress you, but mind you, most of those vehicles are out of their warranty periods also. I didn't look at the threads on the diesel oils.

Interesting thread. Like 07_MKX, I too have been using the best engine oils money can buy for decades, and I too believe that the price of oil is about zero compared with the price of the vehicle. And just as on Bob Is The Oil Guy.com ( http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php ), there are LOTS on opinions here that are very difficult to substantiate--but PLEASE, no one should read between that line.

 

I used Mobil 1 for a few years, but after learning more on BITOG, I decided to go with a group-IV oil that uses a higher proportion of polyol-ester base stock; I chose Red Line and used that (5W40 and 10W40*) in my Porsche Cayenne Turbo for several years (and it's still using it with its new owner in Tuscon). Another thing I like about RL oils is that their only engine oil to require and use viscosity-index improvers is 5W40.

 

At about 4000 miles, I recently drained the Edge's 3rd fill of deaddino oil and filled with RL 5W20, and I'll be using that year-round here in the Arizon desert. I use Mobil 1 oil filters.

 

* RL uses no hyphens in their viscosity designations.

You learn something everyday. Here in the Midwest, I don't think I've heard of RedLine, quite like a lot of people haven't heard of AMSoil. Picking the 'best' oil's then I would try to gather others opinions as this thread is doing and go with feeling's of other people's. Buying oil is a pocketbook decision. If your happy to go with what the manufacturer recommends, that is all you have to do. That in and of itself, will be fine. Engines now will get you to 150K miles with no problem provided you do the recommended oil changes. If your Like Jeffery and I and don't mind paying a lot more for better engineered oil. you have an added piece of assurance your oil is capable of meeting grueling demands out there in that cold harsh world.

I'm trying to figure out where you would use the 5W-30 Amsoil. It doesn't meet the Ford Spec for the MKX or Edge.

 

Virtually all oils have tracers in them so manufacturers/refiners know if it was their product or not, if there is a problem.

 

The Amsoil 0W20 and the Motorcraft 5W20 have close to the same viscosity at 40 and 100 degrees C.

The 5W30 Amsoil is way too thick for our engines - 10.6 vs. 8.8 at 100 degrees C. and 57.3 vs. 49 at 40 Degrees C.

 

I like the idea of a 0W20, especially in colder climates, to reduce start-up wear. But contrary to popular belief, thicker oil at running temps is not a good idea. Pressure does not = lubrication.

Flow = lubrication. Oil is also part of the cooling system for our engines. Restrict flow and add heat.

 

The engine lubrication engineers at Ford were some of the smartest people I have met. I'm going with their recommendations.

Grey, good question, I feel the same way. I can use it in my Explorer, or I could mix it with the 0W-20, say 4 qts 0-20 + 1 qt 5-30. I could use it in my lawn tractor and tiller, where it will really make me feel I'm doing the best I can on those piece's of machinery. The Warranty paperwork from AMS and on their web site still wants you to go by the recommended manufacturers change intervals. But to be denied a claim based upon using a different oil, would not hold up. No Manufacturer says to ONLY use 'this' oil, it's use an API rated SM oil meeting.........spec's. I do know that newer ring pressures are in use and it's actually better to have a thinner oil on the cylinder walls than a thicker oil, for wipe-down. Gas mileage would also go down slightly. What I don't know at this point is how the oil change interval in the vehicles is computed, if it's just mile based or if their is some type of sensor that can detect how badly the oil is contaminated.

-------------

Since we all have the same identical engine, what everyone of us is left with: is our choice of oil. Again, today's oil's are not like your father's oil's. That is the major reason this 3.5L change interval has been raised to 7.5K miles. There is now a Group IV oil that can do a 25K or 35K mile cycle. Taking a 25K oil and changing at 15K is cost wise the same as any dino oil @7K miles. And soon every other oil producer will be re-engineering and claiming high mileage for their oil also. Ford has a 10K on the hybrid, Honda has 10K on their engines. Exciting times we live in eh? I have goosebumpen's just thinking about all of this.

 

I got carried away

[07 MKX]

Cheap women and expensive liquor.

 

Been a long while for one.

 

About 14 hours for the other.

 

 

I thought you gave up drinking long ago?

[northeastsnake]

Thanks for the link, appropriate, yes, I had also read it and noted it was a little dated, but at least it was some info worth reading. I wish their was something newer.

 

I'm in a mild winter climate, we just don't get snow like 20 years ago, anymore. But I keep thinking we will LOL. It's also garaged andwill never see a temp below 50F. I think everyone knows, the Jiffy-Lubes are in business to make money. I even read a thread where a guy, bought his own AMS oil, but found a place to put it in for him, for just $10. Oil's... we learn about them, by word of mouth, advertising, and info past on to us from others. Then we take a chance when we stand in an aisle and look at the different brands, I know I do. Then I decide "Oh Hell, I'll just go with the damn MotorCraft, now what was the weight of that oil I was suppose to use?" I believe it's the start-up cycles, and the cycling of the gears in a transmission that dictate the 'wearing' of oil. IE, driving all day in a big city, vs. 600 miles a day on the Interstate. Pure Interstate driving you could go 10K+ miles on petrol-lube (Group 2 & 3 oil) before an oil change would be needed. The oil will not mildew sitting unused in a crankcase for years. But since the engines are not vacuum-sealed, condensation 'might' be likely to form. Causing oxidation and that will end up in the oil. Filters come into play. Right now, I don't see putting 2K miles on this, so I'm likely to just be throwing away good money, yes. Maybe 5 years from now I might be up to 8K+/yr driving.

 

Go to the oil-drop server and start reading some of those oil reports people are getting on their mileage of synthetic oil's. It will impress you, but mind you, most of those vehicles are out of their warranty periods also. I didn't look at the threads on the diesel oils.

 

You learn something everyday. Here in the Midwest, I don't think I've heard of RedLine, quite like a lot of people haven't heard of AMSoil. Picking the 'best' oil's then I would try to gather others opinions as this thread is doing and go with feeling's of other people's. Buying oil is a pocketbook decision. If your happy to go with what the manufacturer recommends, that is all you have to do. That in and of itself, will be fine. Engines now will get you to 150K miles with no problem provided you do the recommended oil changes. If your Like Jeffery and I and don't mind paying a lot more for better engineered oil. you have an added piece of assurance your oil is capable of meeting grueling demands out there in that cold harsh world.

 

Grey, good question, I feel the same way. I can use it in my Explorer, or I could mix it with the 0W-20, say 4 qts 0-20 + 1 qt 5-30. I could use it in my lawn tractor and tiller, where it will really make me feel I'm doing the best I can on those piece's of machinery. The Warranty paperwork from AMS and on their web site still wants you to go by the recommended manufacturers change intervals. But to be denied a claim based upon using a different oil, would not hold up. No Manufacturer says to ONLY use 'this' oil, it's use an API rated SM oil meeting.........spec's. I do know that newer ring pressures are in use and it's actually better to have a thinner oil on the cylinder walls than a thicker oil, for wipe-down. Gas mileage would also go down slightly. What I don't know at this point is how the oil change interval in the vehicles is computed, if it's just mile based or if their is some type of sensor that can detect how badly the oil is contaminated.

-------------

Since we all have the same identical engine, what everyone of us is left with: is our choice of oil. Again, today's oil's are not like your father's oil's. That is the major reason this 3.5L change interval has been raised to 7.5K miles. There is now a Group IV oil that can do a 25K or 35K mile cycle. Taking a 25K oil and changing at 15K is cost wise the same as any dino oil @7K miles. And soon every other oil producer will be re-engineering and claiming high mileage for their oil also. Ford has a 10K on the hybrid, Honda has 10K on their engines. Exciting times we live in eh? I have goosebumpen's just thinking about all of this.

 

I got carried away

[northeastsnake]

I've used mobil 1 5w-20 in my '04 Explorer. About the second oil change with mobil 1 I noticed a gas mileage improvement. Currently I avg 18-19 miles/gal. 4.6 V8 airconditioning on...mostly highway & I don't baby it. So as far as synthetic oils...I'm sold on them. But I do advise to chnage them regularly...the contaminants that get in the crank case are still there regardless of the quality of the oil. my 2 cents

 

previous to full synthetic motor oil, I used a blend. I've even switched my vintage performance Fords over to all synthetic fluids. I agree with another poster....oil is cheap as compared to a mechanical failure/repair. Regular service is very important!!!

[Grey]

If you have an engine problem - ticking, knocking, seized, the service department will look for the cause. If the lubrication "system" or cooling system created the concern, then the chances are that the vehicle was improperly maintained or products were used that did not meet the specifications required by the engine manufacturer. Oil samples will be taken and sent in for inspection.

 

If the engine is sludged, has been run dry or overheated, the repair cost should usually be on you. If you have a fist full of receipts for maintenance at the corner lube shop or parts store, they will likely suggest you contact them for their warranty coverage. It is the owner's responsibility to ensure the products used on their vehicles meet the Ford Specs. if they intend to maintain their factory or Extended Service Plan warranty.

 

I've seen a lot of engines ruined by improper products and maintenance practices. Chances are it won't happen to any of us, but even well intentioned owners can fall prey to snake oil and imitation product salespeople.