What have you done to/with your Edge/MKX today?

[lildisco]

18 hours ago, TourGuide said:

My 2019 ST has a PTU cooler and no drain plug - THANKS Ford!  So the suck out and replace was as far as I felt like taking it expense wise for now.  Red line does make compatible fluids for both of the applications.

 

I used this for the RDU - and - this for the PTU

 

Ester base stock (even if in name barely) I consider better options than OE.  This unit is past warranty, but I do have an extended warranty to cover anything big.

Not according to Omar & Motorcraft on the above link provided:

Link to Motorcraft page for this oil. It also states "Do not use in conventional high-offset hypoid gear axles where SAE 75W-85, 75W-90, 80W-90 or 75W-140 is recommended

 

I'm not an engineer, but I'm assuming that you've done your research.  I ended up using XY-75W-QL fluid from Ford.  Hopefully in the next 20,000ish miles Redline will have (or has) something available to use that's MUCH cheaper than Ford's version & obviously better.

 

 



Edited March 28, 2023 by lildisco

[TourGuide]

Thanks for your reply - I think I will be making the switch and doing the job myself.  Appreciate the feedback.

 

My research was incomplete on this and have always trusted Red Line products - they have never failed me.

[enigma-2]

Remember, never mix gear oils. Always do a clean install.

[TourGuide]

In this case - this will be a full drain then refill with the OE fluid - which is a sucker punch at ~$50 per quart.

[PrinzII]

Lastest with my Edge:

 

Changed battery in wifey's key fob (That was the one which generated the message)

Researched a louder horn and this a strong possibility: https://motohorn.com/trainhorn/

Researching a dashcam 

 

Bonus: Trading in my radar detector for a new one.

 

 

[TourGuide]

I completed the drain and fill on the RDU today.

 

Allow me to cast my vote at this time for physically coercing all engineers (if necessary) into removing the fasteners and plugs they design and place.  Furthermore - they should be allowed only a standard set of tools when having to do this.

 

I think this idea could be big - as in a new reality show...  Can I get an AMEN?!

[enigma-2]

22 hours ago, PrinzII said:

Bonus: Trading in my radar detector for a new one.

 

Which model are you considering?

 

I'm highly satisfied with my Escort MAX 360c. Great distance warning. All bands and shows the actual frequency so you know if cop or something else (like those signs that show you how fast you're travelling.) Also excellent rejection of false signals. Updates database via wireless connection right in car. (Uses home wireless connection via cell phone).

 

Two separate antennas detail which direction the police are coming from, can track several radars at once and using software on my cell phone, can see where the cops are, within 30 miles. (When someone with a simular detector detects radar, the location is uploaded to the cloud and everyone else can see it.)

 

Map also shows where known speed cameras are located and when you enter a known aircraft measuring area. (No radar used for either of these). 

 

Escort also a camera that attaches directly onto the side of this detector. (Only one power cord needed).

 

 

Edited March 31, 2023 by enigma-2

[TourGuide]

Today I buttoned up the work on the rear hatch body panels.  They were really rattling and chattering going down the road.

 

After pulling everything apart it was clear why that was happening.  The push pins were just sloppy and worn.  My fix for this problem (which did work) was to replace the clips and wrap each re-inserted replacement base in a bit of 3M window weld.  I also did get just a bit of window weld on the push pin side at the insertion point which I think will help long term.  Yes this was a pain and did take a few minutes to accomplish.  The result was well worth the effort I can confirm.

 

Now the only noise I get from the cabin really is the BAMR - which I think is perhaps just how it will be given body flex and so forth.  I will look at it - but I think that is just what it is.

 

Very happy I did this.

[Phil69]

I keep being told by Ford that it's a sealed unit & they cannot replace the fluid?? I have found one dealership that say they can, but they wanna charge $230CAD + tax (I'm in Toronto area). I dont have the tools or knowledge to do it myself. Any idea's how much this should cost as it seems a crazy price to do it? Thanks for any advice. Cheers -  Phil

[Perblue]

1 hour ago, Phil69 said:

I keep being told by Ford that it's a sealed unit & they cannot replace the fluid?? I have found one dealership that say they can, but they wanna charge $230CAD + tax (I'm in Toronto area). I dont have the tools or knowledge to do it myself. Any idea's how much this should cost as it seems a crazy price to do it? Thanks for any advice. Cheers -  Phil

 

Yes it can be done by sucking out the fill hole or unbolting the cooler attached to it. Then fill it. Unfortunately that price is probably about right as the factory ford fluid is 80-100 for a liter of it and then your standard 1 hour minimum charge for labour.

[TourGuide]

I believe there ARE alternative - better - and less expensive alternatives for the PTU fliud.  It doesn't take much - not even a full quart.  I referred to what I used above - which complies with for spec for the PTU.  The RDU is another matter and there is only Ford fluid for that.

 

Suck out and refill is an imperfect solution - but I did find a local shop that only charged me .5 hour labor if I supplied the fluid - so I would suggest trying to find a shop you trust that would do that.  Fair warning - you also may want to verify that the service was performed by looking for witness marks etc - which means some hassle for you.  The value of this is in knowing your set for the next 20k or so on the clock.  Important when no warranty coverage has your back.

[enigma-2]

Transmission shops can do it. May have to bring the fluid as they probably don't stock it.

 

The Ford PTU fluid is probably the best for the unit. No aftermarket is the equal. I believe it's probably US Lubricants 300 Waylube, rebanded under the Ford label. These are at the top of lube products. 

Edited April 5, 2023 by enigma-2

[lildisco]

6 hours ago, TourGuide said:

I referred to what I used above - which complies with for spec for the PTU.  The RDU is another matter and there is only Ford fluid for that.

 

Not entirely true. 2019+ have a different style of PTU/RDU. It disengages at the PTU & the drive shaft quits spinning & currently has the special 75W fluid.

The previous Gen (2015 - 2018) has a PTU that keeps the drive shaft spinning even when not in use & uses more traditional fluid. 

 

https://youtu.be/SU8XFyIhTe0

 

Screenshot is from the 2016 owners manual 

Edited April 6, 2023 by lildisco

[TourGuide]

I stand corrected again.  I guess I should know that since I had formerly driven a 16.

[Nick Halstead]

Slowly started taking apart the front end to reveal how much/lil damage was behind the bumper. Insurance quoted $6,500. In damage and appraised my 2015 Edge Sport with 144,000 miles at $14,800. Was gonna upgrade things, but I already have a fun car in the garage so looks like it will just be oem replacements and keep her good as a daily

[Phil69]

Thanks guys for the PTU fluid advice. In the end I took it to Mister Transmission who were great & they did it for a little over $200. They also gave me back the unused half of the fluid for the next time. Why do Ford dealerships make it so difficult ?  Now onto the next issue - brake judder / grinding noise. I've gone through 3 sets of rotors (discs) under warranty since new & now the same is happening again so need to find a solution & better rotors / pads. Mine are the upgraded package 401A but suck !! Cheers - Phil  

[Cerberus]

So, i've been chasing a sound like a rear wheel bearing or oddball tire tread wear pattern was making a sound of a howling from the rear, right side i think.

I have the hub and hardware but i wanted to look hard at it before i dove ito that task and make sure it really needs it.

Zero play in the wheel, no oddity to the tread.. WTF?

So I jacked it up further and rolled under to look around. Discovered that the RDU right side output seal has been leaking and the pumpkin is chunky with adhered dirt stuck to the once active leak.

Pulled the fill plug, which was furry with fine metal filings, and added fluid.. and it took a lot more than I expected it might. 

Like about 1/2 quart.. and it only holds 830ml.. +/- 30 

I'm hoping its not damaged too badly, but i guess i need to start looking for an RDU 

[TourGuide]

Wow - that is a lot of shavings on that magnet.  What model year do you drive?

[Cerberus]

7 hours ago, TourGuide said:

Wow - that is a lot of shavings on that magnet.  What model year do you drive?

It's a 2016 sport with a hair over 92k on it

And really that's not too much on the magnet. I mean none would be ideal, but I've seen much worse.

The fluid top up has not changed the noise much,  if at all, so it's likely that I will end up needing to do the wheel hub.. but I've expected that for over a year. 

Ironically the dealership said they could not replicate the problem when they had it for the brake line recall 18 months ago, which just pissed me off. 

Just joking here, but the thought occurred to me to take the bad part, once its been replaced, and heave it through their front window and ask if they can find the problem now ?

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

if the fluid has never been serviced, that is not bad. breakin metals accumulate on the magnet. if you dont find slivers or chunks, you *should* be good.

 

now as to the clutch portion of it ... mercon lv filled ... idk. you may indeed have to get  a new rdu if that is bad or source the viscous coupler and replace just that piece.

 

@Special_K had sourced a high end version of the coupler for his sport project. idk if that is still an option.

Edited April 21, 2023 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W

[Cerberus]

4 hours ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

if the fluid has never been serviced, that is not bad. breakin metals accumulate on the magnet. if you dont find slivers or chunks, you *should* be good.

 

now as to the clutch portion of it ... mercon lv filled ... idk. you may indeed have to get  a new rdu if that is bad or source the viscous coupler and replace just that piece.

 

@Special_K had sourced a high end version of the coupler for his sport project. idk if that is still an option.

There were some small shiny bits but pretty minimal. I figure I'll run it a bit and suck out the old and refill. 

 

I've already started searching for RDUs and there are a bunch available out there, but minimal info on them. Any resources you can point me to on that would be appreciated 

[Odrapnew]

On 4/5/2023 at 9:59 AM, TourGuide said:

Today I buttoned up the work on the rear hatch body panels.  They were really rattling and chattering going down the road.

 

After pulling everything apart it was clear why that was happening.  The push pins were just sloppy and worn.  My fix for this problem (which did work) was to replace the clips and wrap each re-inserted replacement base in a bit of 3M window weld.  I also did get just a bit of window weld on the push pin side at the insertion point which I think will help long term.  Yes this was a pain and did take a few minutes to accomplish.  The result was well worth the effort I can confirm.

 

Now the only noise I get from the cabin really is the BAMR - which I think is perhaps just how it will be given body flex and so forth.  I will look at it - but I think that is just what it is.

 

Very happy I did this.

 

Question on this, by hatch body panels, you're talking the plastic on the inside, correct? Any chance you have pictures?

I have noticeable rattles in the back and I believe it's the plastic panel(s) on the hatch. I plan to take the panels off and see if I can fix the rattles.

[lildisco]

Bought my 1st utility trailer this past Monday. Spent most of last year borrowing my father in laws 6x12 trailer. It wasn't bad, but the trailer was too long hauling my mom's 54 inch ztr & I'd always have to ask to borrow the trailer. 

An A frame seems to be the logical stronger choice as well as a wood deck instead of the wire mesh deck. While browsing Facebook marketplace & Craigslist for months, I found what I thought was a decent trailer & price. (The market is flooded with over priced junk or just simply over priced) I found a 2016 Belmont 5x8 utility trailer that seems to fit the bill. It appears to have be taken care of & not beat. Talking with the original owner, it sat in a nice garage for 3 years before they decided to sell it. It appears that the wiring has been redone at some point & some lite rust spots, but overall decently taken care of. 

I already bought some ribbed slit wire wrap & I plan on greasing the axles later this week as I'm sure that hasn't been done in quite some time or at all. Pretty excited about the purchase & the ability to haul things without asking to borrow another trailer (unless needed). 

[lildisco]

Oh & mandatory trailer dolly as I'm on a slight incline from my driveway. Much easier 

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

On 4/21/2023 at 11:40 AM, Cerberus said:

There were some small shiny bits but pretty minimal. I figure I'll run it a bit and suck out the old and refill. 

 

I've already started searching for RDUs and there are a bunch available out there, but minimal info on them. Any resources you can point me to on that would be appreciated 

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-axle-asy-rear_s-158-a.html?vin=&make=Ford&model=Edge&year=2016&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(21805;1886)

this is the rdu pretty pricey at just over 1,000 USD.

 

sometimes for some mys you can get the viscous coupler separately if that is all you need, but i assume you feel the gearing portion is faulty not the clutch.