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What have you done to/with your Edge/MKX today?


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I programmed a 3rd intelligent access key. Used the new 2019 style fob. Read how many Raptor & F-150 owners did it, so decided to try it myself. Mind you, my fob is different from US versions having no "Panic button" and using the 868 MHz frequency, US use 902 MHz, if i remember correctly. I purchased this FOB and this blank key from eBay (same seller). Followed the instructions in the manual, took many tries until finally it worked. My problem was with the last step, after putting the new fob and pressing the ignition start button nothing would happen so i'd press it a second time thinking I did not press it correctly and then a message comes up that programming failed. The last time after pressing the ignition button (nothing would happen) left it a few moments and it programmed successfully.

Another note, the manual states to have the buttons facing back, but that is not correct, they need to face UP with the key ring facing towards the back of the car. Another thing, when programming the new style key, remove the key so it fits better in the back up slot.

 

Edit: Update on the remote, I had the blank key from the new style remote cut and it works smoothly unlocking the driver's door and the glove box.

 

 

Remote (1).jpg

Remote (2).jpg

Remote (3).jpg

Remote (4).jpg

Edited by omar302
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3 hours ago, omar302 said:

I programmed a 3rd intelligent access key. Used the new 2019 style fob. Read how many Raptor & F-150 owners did it, so decided to try it myself. Mind you, my fob is different from US versions having no "Panic button" and using the 868 MHz frequency, US use 902 MHz, if i remember correctly. I purchased this FOB and this blank key from eBay (same seller). Followed the instructions in the manual, took many tries until finally it worked. My problem was with the last step, after putting the new fob and pressing the ignition start button nothing would happen so i'd press it a second time thinking I did not press it correctly and then a message comes up that programming failed. The last time after pressing the ignition button (nothing would happen) left it a few moments and it programmed successfully.

Another note, the manual states to have the buttons facing back, but that is not correct, they need to face UP with the key ring facing towards the back of the car. Another thing, when programming the new style key, remove the key so it fits better in the back up slot.

 

Its very ironic that you mentioned this.   My brother has a 2015 Sport and has your key on the right. He purchased two of the keys you have on the left. The fob you purchased is same fob I have for my 2017 Sport.  He gave me a fob for my birthday!

 

Neither one of us can program our fobs. We tried various instructions found on the nets and the one in the manual.  We believe we did everything correctly.  Just like you there is some confusion as to the last step.  We are going to try your suggestion. I'll send your instructions to my brother. He's not on the forum.  If I get some time today I will try them as well.

 

Thanks for the info! 

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Update on the remote, I had the blank key from the new style remote cut and it works smoothly unlocking the driver's door and the glove box. Also, As I now have an extra fob, I removed the batteries from one of the old ones and hid it in the car. Now the car would not recognize it, but if I get in using the keypad and place the remote (without batteries) into the back up slot in the center console I can start the engine and drive.

 

 

On 7/24/2019 at 3:00 PM, onyxbfly said:

Neither one of us can program our fobs. We tried various instructions found on the nets and the one in the manual.  We believe we did everything correctly.  Just like you there is some confusion as to the last step.  We are going to try your suggestion. I'll send your instructions to my brother. He's not on the forum.  If I get some time today I will try them as well.

 

Did it work? If not, to test if the remote works (at least partially) is to do a remote start, it should fail and then the led would flash red several times.

 
Edited by omar302
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1 hour ago, scorpionking0102 said:

Good evening all,

I’ve been following this thread and have one question. Why does one want to change out the key fob for the newer style?

 

Who doesn't like new things ?. I needed an extra "spare key" and thought of getting the new style. It is of higher quality, built sturdier, the LED is more visible and the buttons are less likely to pressed by by mistake while it is in your pocket.

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It was hot today and I had to be out in it for 3 hour while working . Check this out 124*F in the sun when I got in the car. It was really only 105*F in the shade. Yes I know the car is dirty, it needs some TLC.

IMG_2306.JPG

Edited by Xtra
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On 7/27/2019 at 1:28 PM, omar302 said:

Did it work? If not, to test if the remote works (at least partially) is to do a remote start, it should fail and then the led would flash red several times.

 

 

Thanks for the suggestion!  That's a great idea. Neither one of us thought of testing the fob that way. Unfortunately it did not work for us.  I even swapped batteries to no avail.  Will be going back in the mail tomorrow. 

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6 hours ago, onyxbfly said:

 

Thanks for the suggestion!  That's a great idea. Neither one of us thought of testing the fob that way. Unfortunately it did not work for us.  I even swapped batteries to no avail.  Will be going back in the mail tomorrow. 

 

Sorry to hear that. Are you getting a message in the cluster that the programming failed or nothing at all? 

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4 hours ago, omar302 said:

 

Sorry to hear that. Are you getting a message in the cluster that the programming failed or nothing at all? 

 

Nothing at all. I wish I received a programming failed message. I get no feedback at all. I was hoping that maybe I was doing something wrong, but your remote start test was the final nail in the coffin.

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38 minutes ago, onyxbfly said:

 

Nothing at all. I wish I received a programming failed message. I get no feedback at all. I was hoping that maybe I was doing something wrong, but your remote start test was the final nail in the coffin.

 

For me, when it failed i did get the message. But having no red light come up definitely means something is wrong. To check if your vehicle was reading the old keys correctly, you try the procedure for displaying the factory set keyless entry code. It reads the 2 keys then, if successful, displays the code in the message center.

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2 hours ago, omar302 said:

 

For me, when it failed i did get the message. But having no red light come up definitely means something is wrong. To check if your vehicle was reading the old keys correctly, you try the procedure for displaying the factory set keyless entry code. It reads the 2 keys then, if successful, displays the code in the message center.

 

I have some last minute running around to do before going on vacation. If I have time, I'll try it today. If not its on my todo list for when I get back!  thanks for the suggestion!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Heads up guys. New Forscan update has lots of fun BodyCM parameters to play with. Back up your ABD! 
 

6qts of Rotella Gas truck full synthetic and am FL-500S. Started doing changes based on engine hours rather than miles ~3000 miles is when I change. I need this car to last me lol

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6 hours ago, todd92 said:

Changing full synthetic every 3,000 miles is ridiculous.  Even with 10,000 mile OCI the rest of the vehicle will fall apart long before the engine will wear out.


I have a theory that our motors eat water pump bearings due to lower film strength over a long OCI especially at 10k on conventional like Ford says is okay. 
 

It’s cheap and fast enough to change so I don’t really care. 

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6 hours ago, todd92 said:

Changing full synthetic every 3,000 miles is ridiculous.  Even with 10,000 mile OCI the rest of the vehicle will fall apart long before the engine will wear out.


I have a theory that our motors eat water pump bearings due to lower film strength over a long OCI especially at 10k on conventional like Ford says is okay. 
 

It’s cheap and fast enough to change so I don’t really care. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

The first time the dealer just put RTV (a ton of it ) all around the oil pan in hopes of a quick fix. I busted their chops for taking such a shortcut as soon as I picked up the car. I figured it out by checking the oil dipstick, the car still had the used oil in it so I know that the oil pan had not been replaced.I told them that it was a temporary fix at best and just a bandaid.  That is something one would expect from a lowball or not so honest mechanic. Their fix did not last as expected.  This time I made sure that they did the job correctly . I copied a post from this forum that had Fords message to the dealers on the problem and how to fix it . I showed this to the service manager and explained to him I know what's up and that their first fix was BS. Just to make sure I read it to him  on how to fix the problem so there would be no confusion. The problem with the dealer and the oil pan is fixed.

Thanks to this forum for the information. 

Edited by Xtra
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1 hour ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

Jeez I wonder how many other such "fixes" have been applied to unwary owners' vehicles ...

Apparently the oil pan is a problem on the 2.7 . I believe it is because of the different expansion rates of the metal engine and the plastic oil pan. The lesson here is to just check the dipstick to see if you have fresh oil after an oil pan leak service. If the oil is still dirty they did not replace the oil pan as Ford recommends. 

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