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What have you done to/with your Edge/MKX today?


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7 minutes ago, Wubster100 said:

Does the Edge have a fake engine noise? Or did you disable the noise canceling?

 

Disabling the ANC disables fake engine sounds per forscan posts.  I also needed to disable ANC to accommodate an aftermarket sub.

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Just a FYI, one other item you might take into account when installing aftermarket speakers, is interference with the AnvanceTrac stability control systems. Some guys are not aware of this potential problem. For your reference:

 

In addition, installing any stereo loudspeakers may interfere with and adversely affect the AdvanceTrac with RSC system. Install any aftermarket stereo loudspeaker as far as possible from the front center console, the tunnel, and the front seats in order to minimize the risk of interfering with the AdvanceTrac with RSC sensors. Reducing the effectiveness of the AdvanceTrac with RSC system could lead to an increased risk of loss of vehicle control, vehicle rollover, personal injury and death.

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Oil and filter change after 4345 mi. with 57% remaining on OLM, blow out air filter, check fluid levels. 5 quarts and 14 ounces fills to the top of the cross hatching and 16 ounces puts it an acceptable amount above.

Edited by Tim W. AZ
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On 7/14/2024 at 9:21 AM, Tim W. AZ said:

Oil and filter change after 4345 mi. with 57% remaining on OLM, blow out air filter, check fluid levels. 5 quarts and 14 ounces fills to the top of the cross hatching and 16 ounces puts it an acceptable amount above.

I would question adding oil above the max mark. On a 2.0 L, (think you have the 2.0 L) the manual calls for 5.7 quarts. You put in nearly 6 quarts (and that doesn't count what dirty oil was still left in the engine.)

 

Adding too much allows the crankshaft to contact the top of the oil level, causing splashing and foaming. As the oil pickup floats on top of the oil, it draws the foam into the engine, starving the engine for lubrication  it's the top components, the cams and associated parts, that suffer first.

 

Also not a fan of blowing out a dirty air filter. Blowing out a dirty car air filter only removes loose surface debris and will probably damage the filter fibers, making the filter less efficient. It will also leave behind deeply embedded particals.  Compressed air will forces dirt deeper into the filters leaving the filter partially clogged.

 

New filters are cheap insurance.

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7 minutes ago, enigma-2 said:

I would question adding oil above the max mark. On a 2.0 L, (think you have the 2.0 L) the manual calls for 5.7 quarts. You put in nearly 6 quarts (and that doesn't count what dirty oil was still left in the engine.)

 

Adding too much allows the crankshaft to contact the top of the oil level, causing splashing and foaming. As the oil pickup floats on top of the oil, it draws the foam into the engine, starving the engine for lubrication  it's the top components, the cams and associated parts, that suffer first.

 

Also not a fan of blowing out a dirty air filter. Blowing out a dirty car air filter only removes loose surface debris and will probably damage the filter fibers, making the filter less efficient. It will also leave behind deeply embedded particals.  Compressed air will forces dirt deeper into the filters leaving the filter partially clogged.

 

New filters are cheap insurance.

The 2020 manual specifies 5.5 qts., or 5 qts and 16 ounces, and that takes it slightly above the crosshatching, but well below the max fill level. As I posted earlier, 5 qts and 14 ounces takes it to the top of the crosshatching. The air filter has only 4 months and 4500 miles on it, so it was pretty clean to start with. I don't blow through the filter, I carefully separate the ribs and blow sideways, so I'm not too worried about blowing out the filter and the air box was clean of fine particles. I'm pretty comfortable with my process.

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1 hour ago, enigma-2 said:

Thought smurf snot was gen x slang for the color your snot turns (blue) after snorting adderall. Tish, tish  Cerberus ....

 

 

😊

I wouldn't know, I've never tried it, nor heard the term before in that context. I grew up before that was a thing, before big pharm muscled into the recreational market.

 

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11 hours ago, Cerberus said:

changed all driveline fluids

eng oil change, trans fluid change, PTU drain & refill, RDU evacuate and top with smurf snot (Redline LW Shockproof)

What I didn't mention is that the RDU fill plug magnet was pretty furry again, and I've been hearing dry bearing / hypoid whine noise from the rear section of the driveline so I need to either get ready to do the rear end swap (already have one to install) or trade the vehicle (the easier but less desirable option, because I do like this vehicle)

I just wish I had a lift to do the job on.

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Did fluids on the my 2019 ST.  The oil change is no big deal.

PTU is a pain.  I drained the unit by removing the cooler bolts and just sliding the cooler out enough to let the fluid drain.  Those bolts are not easy to get at.  I think the two bolts alone, took over an hour to remove and replace.  I filled it using one of those 500ml syringe things you see on Amazon. 

The differential is easy except getting the input plug out.  It is a 3/8 square female plug.  Should be easy, but Ford puts a cross brace in the way.  I ended up partially rounding the end of an extension to make it a square ball.  I used Ford fluids for the PTU and Differential.  $79 for both at the dealer.

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My Lincoln dealer uses the RDU vacuum equipment to suck out the PTU fluid and pump new fluid in.

 

Something like this might mat the job easier next time (I havent actually used this, I'd rather pay the dealer to do it.)

 

Thorstone Automotive Fluid Extractor Pump with long rubber hose, Oil Change Syringe with Hose, Manual Fuel Suction & Filler, Fluid Oil Change Evacuator (7 Oz./0.21 Qt./200 CC) https://a.co/d/4f4gFIf

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I emptied my JL oil can yesterday after ~1500 miles and found it had about .25 to .5 ounce of oil in it.  I'm glad it is working and that I saved that from going into the intake but I am also pretty sure I can safely empty it every time the oil is changed.

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On 7/22/2024 at 2:24 AM, Cerberus said:

What I didn't mention is that the RDU fill plug magnet was pretty furry again, and I've been hearing dry bearing / hypoid whine noise from the rear section of the driveline so I need to either get ready to do the rear end swap (already have one to install) or trade the vehicle (the easier but less desirable option, because I do like this vehicle)

I just wish I had a lift to do the job on.

so i unplugged the electrical connector to the RDU and suddenly its silent. 

I'll take that as a temporary win

Went for a ride for ~20 miles and noticed the PTU temperature is absolutely not any cooler than before, maintaining about a 10 degree bump above te transmission fluid temperature, which suggests that (as I suspected) the majority of the heat load that the PTU deals with is radiant from the rear catalyst, not from frictional heat.

also, the 170 thermostat keeps the engine coolant (and also the average head temperature) around 15 degrees cooler without any special tune modification.

Granted i was not in gridlock, but i was doing some stop and go traffic after the highway run.

2024-07-28 13.34.10.jpg

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10 hours ago, lildisco said:

Great deal on a 3 pack of LV Fluid.  With tax, comes out to ~$18 per jug for me from Amazon:

https://a.co/d/1wADj8f

I've contemplated using this but have just erred on the side of caution and went with Motorcraft, but if I see enough good reports of owners here using it, I might go with it for the next trans fluid drain and fill which will be in a couple of years from now.

 

That special has passed, but I've seen it reappear a few times recently.

Valvoline Multi-Vehicle (ATF) Full Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid 1 GA, Case of 3

$51.00

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7 hours ago, 1004ron said:

I've contemplated using this but have just erred on the side of caution and went with Motorcraft, but if I see enough good reports of owners here using it, I might go with it for the next trans fluid drain and fill which will be in a couple of years from now.

 

That special has passed, but I've seen it reappear a few times recently.

Valvoline Multi-Vehicle (ATF) Full Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid 1 GA, Case of 3

$51.00

Kendall Versatrans LV is specifically licensed to be in compliance with the spec my Trans requires. For whatever that is worth.. 

I buy it by the case of quarts, do not recall the price

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1 minute ago, lildisco said:

It says Mercon V/LV on the jugs, but are you saying that they didn't actually do the testing to say that? 

Mercon V & Mercon LV are entirely different specs.. or else Ford would not have created the different name.. (unless possibly just as a money grab?)

So a fluid that sites both specs is automatically suspect in my book.

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