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What have you done to/with your Edge/MKX today?


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Post jogged my memory, been a year. (I use a label maker and put the date of cabin air filter on inside of glove box as I tend to forget when last changed. Of course I forget to check the label as I rarely open the glove box. sigh.)

 

So I ordered a new filter and installed it. Use Motorcraft as they use a two layer filter, better for pollen and little stuff. Plus I spray it with a spray that causes the filter to turn into an electrostatic filter. (Wife has allergies & is sensitive to pollen.) Used to use charcoal filters with coconut fiber, but found it failed to filter smoke (fall, burning leaves). 

 

Anyway, only took two minutes. On the 09 MKX, open cover, unhook tension string, lift glove box out of opening (tilt and it lifts right out), and pop open the filter door. (Hardest part is getting that little tension string off and on.)

 

Phew, thank goodness that's over with. Time to grab a sandwich and watch the latest episode of Gunsmoke.  Retirement is hell. 

Edited by enigma-2
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Got around to putting the summer wheels & tires on our 2020. This year, spring me won't screw fall me. I cleaned & 'ceramic' coated the wheels with Mekee's 37 Hydro Blue. Second year I've used it. Makes cleaning the wheels really easy. There's something about water beading off the wheels that makes you feel like the wheels are really clean. 

The 2016 is getting new summer rubber, the OEMs lasted till now. Now to repeat the tire cleaning process so spring me doesn't screw fall me. 

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Summer rubber installed on our 2016 SEL Fwd. Kumho Crugen HP71's & new TPMS's installed. TPMS's were still good, but we just crossed over 8 years on the OEMs. Didn't want to unmount them & replace them in the next year or so. 

 

Spring me didn't screw fall me this time. Winters, which probably need to be replaced as well, are cleaned & ceramic coated. Now to hopefully enjoy Mother's Day this weekend with the wife & a family. 

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  • 1 month later...
14 hours ago, sc00by said:

Yesterday I disabled the fake engine sounds and seat belt minders using forscan.

Today I washed the car.

Fake engine sounds??

I'm not aware of the Edge having fake engine sounds.

Why does it have this "feature" and on what models?

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17 minutes ago, niceonept said:

Fake engine sounds??

I'm not aware of the Edge having fake engine sounds.

Why does it have this "feature" and on what models?

 

I disabled following information in forscan sheets and seems to have made a difference (subjective) on what it was sounding like before.  I could be totally wrong but it is disabled.  The model I have is in my sig in case you missed it.

Edited by sc00by
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1 hour ago, enigma-2 said:

No signature in the mobile version. (I access the forum via cell phone. Bet several other do as well.)

 

Re: mobile version: Sounds like product management failed to add sigs to mobile app on the product roadmap 🙃

 

2020 Edge ST.

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On 1/13/2023 at 2:08 AM, omar302 said:

Installed LED Turn signal bulbs. Purchased from Amazon (link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q8RZRZV). Thanks to the recommendation from @enigma-2 from another post recently.

 

These are the first LED bulbs I found for the Edge that are actually brighter than stock. Also they do not hyperflash. However, with parking lights on, they are too bright and hence when turning on the turn the turn signal they become a bit brighter. This makes the turn signals not easily distinguishable. I had disabled the parking light function using ForScan and for me they only function as turn signals. The Edge still has the signature lights in the bumper to function as parking lights. This issue is from Ford using a single filament bulb (the 7440) and applying 5V power as "parking light" and then 12V power for "turn signal". This does not seem to go well with LEDs. The seller also stated "7440 LED bulbs (not 7443 bulbs) are used as turn signal lights ONLY. "

 

The ForScan changes were: 726-29-02 xxx* xxxx xxxx 0=Turn Only 1=Turn & Parking/Position (default for 2015-2018 Edge).

 

I got the same LED's you have - I read Amazon reviews that said the new version wasn't as bright.

 

These are most certainly much brighter than the incandescent ones.

 

They worked the same as the originals as far as they were dimmer with parks ON and switched between Dim and Bright with the turn signal ON.

 

I still did the same Forscan change because its more distinct/eye catching when it switches between OFF & ON.

 

 

Edited by 1004ron
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OK, rather than some smart ass remarks, I'll share more of what is going on with the power wire.  I find that the factory system is boomy but lacks that bottom end punch.  My goal is to keep the factory sub and add in something more substantial.

 

 

 

IMG_2792.thumb.JPEG.be20e7466a992ffee4a8f53a53a67c7a.JPEG

 

First, we added a ground wire today.  I saw some folks were running a ground wire to where the amp is in the back of the hatch.  That's not for me, I like shorter grounds for my amps.  Wire wheel'd both sides where the ring terminal bolts in, not sure that I really like how thin the metal is, but the seat bolt was not giving me a good clean connection.  I am going to sleep on this as I am still not fully sold on this ground point.  Maybe I will take out the back seats and clean up the seat belt bolts to see if we can get a more robust connection.

 

IMG_2791.thumb.JPEG.78cb61a9b5c45237d836ea67112d9fef.JPEG

 

OH I found this, too...I've not had my edge long and noted that the hold down for the spare tire was missing, there is still part of the hold down missing.  This was under the rear seat.

 

IMG_2793.thumb.JPEG.c17d7ae2c8b3306f03b4161c55decc88.JPEG


Shitty styrofoam put back.  The speaker wire is tied into the factory sub.  Everything is intentionally extra long.  I've got some plans to replace all of the styrofoam with something else.  More on that later.

 

IMG_2788.thumb.JPEG.eca2cebf19c1226d8e3d9d9a79b63af3.JPEG

 

Some goodies, the power wire is already installed.  Sonic Electronix shorted me on a fuse block so I am stuck waiting on them 🙄  You can also see the slice in the power wire bag FROM THEM.  It came that way.  Thankfully the power wire was not nicked.

 

IMG_2794.thumb.JPEG.f893eba8acfafa661d5bffd64e66e986.JPEG

 

The power wire is to support these two guys.  I have a sub as well which is slated for installation.  To really maximize the amp/sub I really need more alternator, this amp will pull some serious power and I'm afraid that 210a simply isn't enough 🤣

 

Edit: I guess the forum software has decided I need this pic twice.  I delete it, and it comes right back.  GG forum software.

Edited by 1004ron
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The amp, at full load, will pull anywhere from 30amps for an 8 ohm load to 150amps for a 1 ohm load.  I would think the ground needs to be as robust as the positive wire.  I would run a separate ground wire all the way to the battery if it was my Edge. 

If I remember correctly.  The body grounds on the edge are 12 gauge wire at best.  They are  not designed to take the load that will put on them.

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2 hours ago, johnmarkp said:

The amp, at full load, will pull anywhere from 30amps for an 8 ohm load to 150amps for a 1 ohm load.  I would think the ground needs to be as robust as the positive wire.  I would run a separate ground wire all the way to the battery if it was my Edge. 

If I remember correctly.  The body grounds on the edge are 12 gauge wire at best.  They are  not designed to take the load that will put on them.

 

Right now the ground is going to the floor right behind the rear seat.  You want ground wires short, there is def no room to run another 1/0 cable run along side the power wire.  This amp will pull 250-300+ amps at 1ohm.  Here is an amp dyno by Williston Audio and he is using a clamp gauge during the tests:

 

 

After sleeping on it I think I am going to add a ground wire from the seat belt bolt to the sheet metal ground I am using.

 

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The body would have to be a "good" ground as all of the electrical

components inside the vehicle. 

 

Old VWs had a strap ground under the rear seat to the body. As a side note

on grounds, I powder-coated the alternator holder for my Fox Mustang. Upon

re-installation, the output was very low! The solution as one might suspect, was

a ground strap the the alternator. Lesson learned, now I tape over the ground

points and bolt holes when powder-coating.

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On 6/30/2024 at 12:56 PM, johnmarkp said:

The body is only as good a ground as the connection between it and the negative terminal of the battery.  I am pretty sure that there are several connections on the Edge.

 

There's a TON of grounds on the Edge and they are all painted over with a bolt going through them.  I can only imagine if this thing was 20 years old trying to chase electrical gremlins.

 

 

I installed the amp.sub today.  Since I don't have enough power to really drive it, it is fused at 150a.  The wires are extra long intentionally as this is temporary.  Longer term the amp and LOC will go under the carpet but that's a project for another day.

 

Initial impression: That's a lot of bass.  Might be a little heavy for the factory speakers to keep up but Pink Floyd and Fear Factory are just about right.

 

IMG_2808.JPEG

IMG_2807.JPEG

Edited by sc00by
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I did my 1st. transmission service using Valvoline ULV. It is a real easy job to do on our

2022 Edge ST. There is a short write-up in the Lounge. A 1st. timer should take less than

1 hour to do, saving one a couple hundred bucks.

 

A BIG THANK YOU to @Haz for the help with the Ford pics too.

The fill port is now at the front of the transmission, rather that the middle, with the

neat "funnel holder".

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TED unit on drivers seat bottom failed. (Both passenger units failed last year. They were replaced under the extended warranty and cost $0.)

 

When switch clicked on, nothing happened and leds turn off after a minute. Troubleshooting verified the TED unit failed.

 

Had dealer replace both seat bottom and seat back TED units (when one fails, the other usually follows within a few months.)

 

Seat heats and cools like new now. Only cost ¼ the cost of the car when new. <grunt>

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