What have you done to/with your Edge/MKX today?

[lildisco]

On 10/19/2022 at 9:39 PM, lildisco said:

My 2020 SEL AWD bought in October 2020 is on it OEM battery. I occasionally throw it on a battery tender from time to time. It's currently ~16,000 miles & sits a lot. I noticed the last few days on drives ~30 - 40 minutes the auto start/stop wouldn't work. In the menu it said that it wasn't working because of system charging. I hooked up my battery tender the other night & let it charge for a few hours & the tender was saying it was @ 75 - 100, which isn't unheard of. Had to take the cat to the vet (regular check up) & disconnected the tender (which was in trickle/maintaine mode) & my auto start/stop was working fine.

 

I guess it helps to charge the battery up from time to time. I don't do it constantly & I know the car adjusts it's charging during due to the battery age & etc., but I'm wondering if it's more of a programming issue to replace the battery sooner rather than later, who knows? Wonder if I should reset the battery monitor & see if the auto/start stays functioning without a top up. 

Did some errands tonight and the auto start/stop worked as it should. My trip mpg, which I reset after every fill up, shows me at 27.3 mpg for this tank ?

[enigma-2]

Think @lildisco may have hit the point. @Perblue, are you driving short trips in your daily drive? 

[Sjej]

removed the "snorkel" looking thing from the right side very bottom of my airbox. entirely different sound

[Cerberus]

On 10/19/2022 at 9:39 PM, lildisco said:

My 2020 SEL AWD bought in October 2020 is on it OEM battery. I occasionally throw it on a battery tender from time to time. It's currently ~16,000 miles & sits a lot. I noticed the last few days on drives ~30 - 40 minutes the auto start/stop wouldn't work. In the menu it said that it wasn't working because of system charging. I hooked up my battery tender the other night & let it charge for a few hours & the tender was saying it was @ 75 - 100, which isn't unheard of. Had to take the cat to the vet (regular check up) & disconnected the tender (which was in trickle/maintaine mode) & my auto start/stop was working fine.

 

I guess it helps to charge the battery up from time to time. I don't do it constantly & I know the car adjusts it's charging during due to the battery age & etc., but I'm wondering if it's more of a programming issue to replace the battery sooner rather than later, who knows? Wonder if I should reset the battery monitor & see if the auto/start stays functioning without a top up. 

All Batteries suffer some amount of self discharge depending on temperature and type.

Self discharge does not include actual loads the vehicle puts on the battery, even while off.

Some vehicles have issues with excessive loads at rest due to relays sticking, harness problems, and other variables.

if you don't drive a vehicle often enough (very difficult to quantify due to variables) the battery will suffer.

I'd say that if your auto start/stop system is not working correctly, you need to drive more or use some type of tender.

I used to use a smallish (about 6" x 12") flexible solar panel on the dash with a battery tender brand charge regulator to maintain the battery of a truck I drove infrequently.

it worked quite well and required no plug in. 

[PrinzII]

On 9/1/2022 at 5:14 PM, enigma-2 said:

?

 

Ever think you'd be happy about paying over $500 for a rear view mirror?  ?

What the dealer quoted me.....

 

$700+ for the mirror and labor

$300 to repaint the cap

 

versus YouTube, Ebay, a friend of mine, and me

 

$519 for the mirror
$0 to transfer the existing cap to the new mirror (zero tabs broken)

 

 

Edited November 12, 2022 by PrinzII

[saile888]

Great idea for a thread, by the way. I have seen similar discussions in other forums and there have been some good comments.

Edited May 8, 2023 by saile888

[Sjej]

forgot to say i replaced the mirror with a junkyard mirror, mine broke

 

[Sjej]

i put a performance air intake on because it's a good price and sounds great.

 

my car didnt start after, then started and stalled, then ran rough and finally settled. ran like crap until i drove it for a bit, then it was fine. mpg went from 16.9 to 18.7, but i cant say for sure if its changed anything yet.

[Perblue]

On 10/21/2022 at 6:08 PM, enigma-2 said:

Think @lildisco may have hit the point. @Perblue, are you driving short trips in your daily drive? 

 

Not overly, a few miles at least per trip. If the distance covered was the issue it would have problems in weeks, maybe a few months, not over a year. Also the battery would then still take a charge from a charger instead of not charging at all. 

[bofus]

Upper trim panel of the liftback/hatchback had a busted clip, something I found whilst investigating a rattling noise over rough roads. Alas, the clip is part of the panel, so I ordered a new panel online. Part number is: FT4Z-5841308-AB, about $53 + shipping.

 

I removed the panel only to find non-factory wiring at the 3rd brake light behind the panel. It appeared something was tapped into the brake light and they used those snap-wire connectors to tap into the power lead for the 3rd brake light. I found a short length of wires that terminated in a rectangular shaped chunk of rubberized plastic about 1.5" long by .5" wide. After pulling it from the car, I wondered what it could be. GPS tracker? Power for a rear-facing dash camera? Why tap into the 3rd brake light power? After peeling away the plastic, I find a circuit board. Upon close inspection of the circuit board, I see a name:   Williams and Lake, LLC.  Quick google search turns up:

 

https://pulseprotects.com/

 

Looks like a dealer at some point added a pulsing 3rd brake light upgrade to this car,  and you can't buy this product unless you're an authorized "dealer". It's a nice idea, but the installation was atrocious. Snap-wire splice? Ugh. Busted upper trim panel. Eeek. Oh, and the little circuit board encased in rubber was just rattling around up in the liftgate with no strain relief to the wiring. n00bs! I'm the third owner, so I don't know who/when this was done. It seems that dealers are adding this and then charging people for it when they buy a car. I guess it's a way for the dealers to make more money on a car by adding this "upgrade". Again, this is a very amateur installation.

Edited November 30, 2022 by bofus

[bofus]

I noticed that the '18 model ditched the little storage tray to the left of the steering wheel and just have a dumb blanking plate there. I got my new storage tray today and just popped it in. It's semi-useful for putting things in there: parking ticket pass, key for the trailer hitch lock, and an emergency energy bar. Really weird of Ford to ditch that...along with some of the ambient lighting that my '15 Edge had. Part number for that is: FK7Z-5813546-AB.

[lildisco]

Me thinks that the purge valve on our 2016 SEL Fwd 2.0 Ecoboost was starting to go bad at 56,4xx miles.... 

[enigma-2]

UCheck for codes P0442 & P0455.

 

Below is an easy way to test for a stuck purge valve.

 

If you only experiencing lower mpg, and the codes don't verify a purge valve, suspect a dirty mass airflow sensor. Easy fix is to just pull off the intake hose and spray with special cleaner.

 

 

[lildisco]

No codes, stumbling at idle after fillup & poor mpgs over the last few tanks & cleaned the MAF after the 1st tank I noticed was bad. 

Edited December 1, 2022 by lildisco

[Cerberus]

12 hours ago, lildisco said:

No codes, stumbling at idle after fillup & poor mpgs over the last few tanks & cleaned the MAF after the 1st tank I noticed was bad. 

Not sure what you mean by stumbling at idle, but when mine was bad, it had a cyclic  low idle after fill ups. 

And the purge valve did fix it

[lildisco]

1 hour ago, Cerberus said:

Not sure what you mean by stumbling at idle, but when mine was bad, it had a cyclic  low idle after fill ups. 

And the purge valve did fix it

After filling up, for a few miles, every time you pulled up to a stop light/sign, it would idle rough & acted like it was going to stall. Swapped the $22 purge valve (non OEM, which I couldn't find an OEM for anything less than $170 + $20 shipping & included extra pipes/tubing) . 

After swapping, no rough idle after fillup & mpgs are back up to normal range. 

[Cerberus]

3 hours ago, lildisco said:

After filling up, for a few miles, every time you pulled up to a stop light/sign, it would idle rough & acted like it was going to stall. Swapped the $22 purge valve (non OEM, which I couldn't find an OEM for anything less than $170 + $20 shipping & included extra pipes/tubing) . 

After swapping, no rough idle after fillup & mpgs are back up to normal range. 

Got you 

As a mechanic, usually a stumble is when you roll into the throttle (either under load or not) and the engine doesn't rev up as expected, but rather stumbles like biden on the stairs to air force one, but I can see how your use makes sense too

Edited December 2, 2022 by Cerberus
Clarity

[lildisco]

22 hours ago, Cerberus said:

Got you 

As a mechanic, usually a stumble is when you roll into the throttle (either under load or not) and the engine doesn't rev up as expected, but rather stumbles like biden on the stairs to air force one, but I can see how your use makes sense too

I consider your description as a  chug/miss or struggling to accelerate. Tomato / Tomato ?

Edited December 3, 2022 by lildisco

[onyxbfly]

On 12/2/2022 at 6:25 AM, lildisco said:

Swapped the $22 purge valve 

 

Whenever you have a moment, can you link us to the $22 purge valve?

[lildisco]

54 minutes ago, onyxbfly said:

 

Whenever you have a moment, can you link us to the $22 purge valve?

Heat gun required to get the 1 hard plastic piece on the front side off. 

My bad, it's $23 now ?

Vapor Canister Purge Valve 0280142519 Replacement for Ford Fusion Lincoln MKZ 2.0L Turbo 2013-2016 https://a.co/d/a0kc4gz

Edited December 3, 2022 by lildisco

[onyxbfly]

9 hours ago, lildisco said:

Heat gun required to get the 1 hard plastic piece on the front side off. 

My bad, it's $23 now ?

Vapor Canister Purge Valve 0280142519 Replacement for Ford Fusion Lincoln MKZ 2.0L Turbo 2013-2016 https://a.co/d/a0kc4gz

 

Thanks for the info! I'll pass it on to my friend!

[Xtra]

 

May you never forget what is worth remembering or remember what is best forgotten ...

 

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays. 

Xtra

[Perblue]

Topped up fluids for a 10 hour road trip to manitoba, unbeknownst to me during that drive I blew 4 liters of oil out the tail pipe. Threw codes for emissions inefficiency during the drive, other wise things seemed fine, slight of a short stutter with an hour left of driving then smoothed out, figured it was maybe some water in the tank due to our recent cold temps. Filled up at destination, added gas line antifreeze to it. Hit 120kph and Edge killed power and and oil light came on. Checked oil and none on dipstick, took 4 liters to top it up, not sure how it managed to run or why it didn't make a heck of a racket while running. Drove it back home after the holiday, only lost a liter on the way home, checked it regularly during the drive. The vehicle goes into ford to be looked at on the 13th, sounds like turbos will be replaced but not engine, however they do have to inspect it first. Planning to drive it until drivetain warranty is done in a year or motor blows up(new motor from ford if this happens), then will be joining the 3.0L club. Found one from a 2019 mkz for 2200 CAD shipped with 4100 kms on it. 

 

Needless to say it was a stressful holiday.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

@Perblue sorry to hear but the stress is in keeping with the holiday season

 

there is a tsb for the 2.7, not sure it applies to you, if turbos are truly what went.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zcNjezDAfMkX_jzC9PJC1niHgpLhmTEA/view?usp=share_link

 

but if you do go the 3.0 route, couldn't blame ya.

[Perblue]

@WWWPerfA_ZN0W Unfortunately mine has a build date of nov 2018 so even if I brought this up to them they would probably out right ignore it since mine is outside the build dates listed. 

 

3 hours ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

@Perblue sorry to hear but the stress is in keeping with the holiday season

 

LOL it definitely is, now we are back home it's much better with the 10 hour drive back done. Was just waiting to hear rod knock the entire way back though from a spun bearing, but it didn't though. I may drain the oil to see how it looks out of the pan to see if there is anything in it or not before it gets to the dealership.