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cooling fan problems


john latham

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Hi all,

Had dead fans on my nieces 07 Edge, so I replaced the complete assembly as per instructions that I found on this site. (Thanks so much for the simplified replacement procedure). Put it all back together and the fans still won't come on, even when in A/C mode. Put 12V direct to the fans and they run. Checked both of the 40A fuses, (this Edge has the trailer opt) and swapped the relay. Still no fans.

Any ideas? All suggestions appreciated.

Thanks.

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You can also unplug the A/C high pressure cutoff switch right there near the fan module in the high pressure line and the fans should default to the HIGH setting (with the car running..... and it takes a minute or so for them to kick on, it's not instant)

 

Could also be a PCM on it's way out too. I'll have to look up the pinpoint test to see how to test the signal wire.... we've never seen any problems with them so I've never had to test it out, lol

Edited by thirdgenlxi
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You can also unplug the A/C high pressure cutoff switch right there near the fan module in the high pressure line and the fans should default to the HIGH setting (with the car running..... and it takes a minute or so for them to kick on, it's not instant)

 

Could also be a PCM on it's way out too. I'll have to look up the pinpoint test to see how to test the signal wire.... we've never seen any problems with them so I've never had to test it out, lol

 

Whew, glad you could answer his question. I've never thought to measure the output from the PCM. I wonder now if I needlessly replaced my fan assembly!

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I'm having the same issue on a 2007 ford edge. I've replaced the fan module and thermostat. The big fan wasn't coming on until I changed the module but even now both fans only come on for about 3-4 seconds at the same time every minute or two and car will start to overheat if stuck in traffic or a drive-thru for to long. The A/c starts blowing warm air when stopped as well.

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Well I found the problem.

The new fan control module fried.....

I have no idea how it happened. I installed the new fan assembly, connected the plug making sure the retainer clicked in place and then re-connected the battery cable. Did I miss something? Anyway replaced the fried module and everything's working fine.

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  • 1 month later...

I had the same problem

Installed a new dorman cooling fan assembly two days ago and now it has stopped working again

Gettin power to the module

Jumped power to the fans and they run fine

No fans with ac running, no fans at high temp, and no fans with the ac pressure switch unplugged

Look alike the module again but why.

Any ideas of what to look for.

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I ended up getting a salvaged cooing fan assembly and installed it 3 days ago, I went ahead and added a second ground wire to the ground on the plug going into the control module. I used one of those side by side splicer and ran it to the grounding post next to the fuse box under the hood

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  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...

Wow, the wife's 2007 MKX was overheating and the AC wouldn't work while at a stop. Changed the thermostat and tried to recharge AC. Overheated while charging and the compressor wouldn't stay on. Found out the fans weren't coming on. Tried to hot wire the fans and they wouldn't come on. So ordered a new set from Rock auto. Figured I'd go and try to wiggle the wires to the fan module and BAM, the fans came on. Left it running and recharged the AC and it didn't overheat. Now to figure out how to cancel the rockauto order.

Edited by nate.shamblin
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Got to ask Nate, if just wiggling wires makes the fans work, doesn't that seem like there's a real problem in there somewhere? I mean, a loose connection could cause excessive heating and (possibly) a fire.

 

Think I'd be looking a little closer at the wiring connector and make certain that it's rock solid tight. No high load connection should be determined on the basis if wiggling. Just saying...

Edited by enigma-2
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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Stuck thermostat? If the coolant looks good, that would be my goto. There have been TSBs out for problems with the heater core contaminating/clogging the coolant system. In which case a flush + new heater core would be the solution.

 

While it is normal for the coolant level to go down a bit over time, a steady drop over a short period of time is more indicative of a water pump and/or a head gasket leak. Any white smoke out the exhaust?

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