SELAWD2011 Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 (edited) Hello! I own a 2011 SEL AWD with Vista Sunroof. Bought it brand new and have had it for 2 years. Now Ive heard its important to take care and maintain the Sunroof. Mine is still working fine but when closing I can see and hear the motor forcing the last 6-7 inches. I was wondering if any of you had tips on maintenance, i.e. if and how I should clean, remove old grease and re-grease the tracks? Thanks RL Edited July 8, 2013 by SELAWD2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wannabang Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 My BAMR closes relatively easily, just slow the last few inches, and chugs during the winter. It hasn't failed yet, though, so I'm not worried about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cv27 Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 Same here, Vista roof slows down when closing at the last 6 inches, but speeds up again for the last 2-3 inches. When at about 6 inches, the wind visor starts to close: maybe that accounts for the slight slow down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SELAWD2011 Posted July 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 So... no clean up then. Cuz I heard in previous models the roof would jam and then would not close entirely. Due to gunk build up and forcing motors out of sync. Here is a video of a guy showing how to fix it when it jams Looking at the amount of work he did I thought Id avoid it by keeping my tracks cleaned.. BUT if no one has done this and everything is good then I wont mess with it. Don't want to stir things up when there is no need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limited59 Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 Hello! I own a 2011 SEL AWD with Vista Sunroof. Bought it brand new and have had it for 2 years. Now Ive heard its important to take care and maintain the Sunroof. Mine is still working fine but when closing I can see and hear the motor forcing the last 6-7 inches. I was wondering if any of you had tips on maintenance, i.e. if and how I should clean, remove old grease and re-grease the tracks? Thanks RL How often do you open the roof? My Edge's roof also laboured a bit as you're describing. I figured it was because I only opened it a half a dozen times over the course of the 22 months I owned it. Haven't opened the roof in the MKX yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wannabang Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 I open it every nice day but usually close it before I leave the car since it'd be so easy to climb up and slip in the car that way. lol Why not just wait til it stops and then diagnose the issue. Degrease, re-grease, and if that doesn't work, talk to Ford. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tacyon Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 (sry for the necro thread) I have a 2011 limited with the BAMR issue. Has anyone come up with a point of failure or even a recommended grease to use on the rails (if that is even the issue on the 2011 and on) I as thinking about a PTFE or Teflon based lube. What have you tried and how long did it last if it worked at all ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richy Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 I'd LOVE to see someone on here make a video showing how/where to grease the tracks and with what product. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcali6301 Posted May 30, 2014 Report Share Posted May 30, 2014 I bought a 2011 pre-owned last and already had the roof fixed once (thank goodness it was still under warranty) it ends up that one of the cables which attached to the motor wore out and had to be replaced. The tracks should already be greased as they are on mine but I also add some WD40 (which the maintenance people approved of) to the joints and fittings which ride along the rail. I also noticed that the rear arms which slide all the way to the back, ride in between two rubber seals located on the roof. Those seals can become a little sticky and also contribute to slowing down the roof when it closes so I wipe them with regular Vinyl/rubber cleaner to make them more slippery and it will also keep the rubber in good shape. I can take a picture of them if you need me to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixponies Posted June 5, 2014 Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 I've also noticed that these seals can be sticky. Lately mine were sticky, and would stick to the glass and slide back as the glass opened. So another trick I've used for the seals is to rub a little baby powder on them. I've done this for years on the rubber seals on my RV slide-out. Keeps them from being sticky and other things won't stick to them when they slide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally_Ripped Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Roof Opening Panel Track Cleaning and Lubrication procedure. Roof Opening Panel Track Cleaning.pdf 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tacyon Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 i JUST had this done to my 2011 with the classic BAMR roof. The tech seemed to know exactly what was going on and described the symptoms to me to a tee. He said that Ford had first said no lube, then rescinded that and recommended dry graphite (as in the above pdf) and as now recommended the use of blue PTFE. I can tell you that the roof after cleaning and treatment opens and closes quicker that ever and there is no slow down in the final 5-8" of travel. The culprits are those split rubber trim looking parts that extend out the back of the BAMR area to the rear lift gate. Since these are always exposed and not allowed to flush themselves, they get filled up with debris. The process was explained to me exactly as is indicated in the above pdf except the Ford recommended lube now appears to be PTFE. I'd like to get collaborating proof of this from another "insider" 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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