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Right blinker won't stay on - possible causes?


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My wife and I have gotten used to the Edge's turn signal stalk and have actually come to like it - a small movement for three blinks in either direction and a large movement for the blinker to stay on until I turn.

 

Recently, though, the blinker will not stay on when indicating a right turn. It will blink three times then turn off, no matter how hard the stalk is moved. The left turn still works as expected so we're wondering what's causing this. Has anyone seen this issue before? I did a search for blinkers but all I found was people installing LEDs or wondering why the light blinked quickly.

Many thanks.

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Isn't the car under warranty still? If so, why do it yourself?

 

Even if it isn't under warranty, you might want to reconsider doing it yourself. Here is how it works:

 

 


The Steering Column Control Module (SCCM) monitors the multifunction switch position. When the multifunction switch is in the LH or RH TURN position, the SCCM sends a message over the High Speed Controller Area Network (HS-CAN) to the Body Control Module (BCM) indicating a request for the LH or RH turn signal.

The BCM sends a voltage signal to the Front Controls Interface Module (FCIM) to monitor for a hazard lamp function request. When the hazard flasher switch (a capacitive touch switch) is touched, the voltage signal is routed to ground, indicating a request to activate or deactivate the hazard lamp function.

When the BCM receives a request for a turn signal or the hazard lamps, the BCM supplies on/off voltage to the appropriate turn lamps.

The timed on/off cycle for turn lamps is determined by the BCM and is set to flash approximately 80 times per minute if both the front and rear turn signal lamps operate correctly. If a front or rear turn signal lamp is inoperative, the BCM fast flashes the remaining turn lamp approximately 160 times per minute to indicate a bulb outage to the driver.

The timed on/off cycle for the hazard lamps is approximately 80 times per minute regardless of bulb outage.

The multifunction switch is a momentary contact switch, with 2 detents for the LH turn position and 2 detents for the RH turn position. When placed in the first detent and released, the corresponding turn signals flash 3 times and turn off. When the multifunction switch is moved to the second detent and released, the turn signal flashes until the steering wheel is turned in the opposite direction (based on input from the steering wheel rotation sensor), the multifunction switch is moved to the second detent a second time or the vehicle travels farther than 3.2 km (2 miles). The BCM monitors the steering wheel rotation sensor and the multifunction switch input to determine when to cancel the turn signals. The BCM monitors the distance traveled to determine if the turn signal should be turned off.


As you can see, if it turns out to be something other than the somewhat simple momentary switches in the multifunction lever, you could get into a whole series of computerized modules. However, replacing the multifunction switch is relatively simple compared to older cars - you don't have to pull the steering wheel or any harness running down the column. If you need it, I can get you the pin positions in the connector so that you can test continuity for the momentary switches for the signals.

 

 

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Isn't the car under warranty still? If so, why do it yourself?

 

Even if it isn't under warranty, you might want to reconsider doing it yourself. Here is how it works:

 

 

As you can see, if it turns out to be something other than the somewhat simple momentary switches in the multifunction lever, you could get into a whole series of computerized modules. However, replacing the multifunction switch is relatively simple compared to older cars - you don't have to pull the steering wheel or any harness running down the column. If you need it, I can get you the pin positions in the connector so that you can test continuity for the momentary switches for the signals.

 

 

 

56,000 miles on it, so the bumper-to-bumper is over with. We like the Edge enough that we basically stopped driving my car.

 

Thanks for the additional info! I would definitely appreciate the pinout info. I'd love to do as much as possible on my own.

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Sorry, I went through the manual and found that the multifunction switch actually plugs in directly to the Steering Column Control Module (that's why there is no harness involved). The SCCM processes input from the switch and sends a message to the Body Control Module over the network to activate the requested function (signals, high beam, etc.). There is no procedure in the manual for testing the switch itself - problems with the switch are diagnosed by deduction rather than by direct testing. The procedure is to connect a scan tool, turn the ignition on, select "Network Test" on the scan tool and perform the network test on the SCCM. If the SCCM passes the network test then replace the multifunction switch otherwise move on to other network testing.

 

I'm sure the switch is an expensive part so I would hate to buy one and then find out it's not the problem. It looks like only a 15 minute job to replace the switch so maybe you know someone with the same year Edge that wouldn't mind letting you swap the switch for testing purposes.

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I'm sure the switch is an expensive part so I would hate to buy one and then find out it's not the problem. It looks like only a 15 minute job to replace the switch so maybe you know someone with the same year Edge that wouldn't mind letting you swap the switch for testing purposes.

 

Funny you mention that, since getting an Edge, my parents, sister, sister-in-law, and co-worker have all pick up one for themselves. Sister-in-law's is a 2011, but I'm not sure I could convince them to let me tear into the steering column. Thanks again for all of the info! I might just have to bit the bullet and pay the $75 "diagnostic" fee. The last time I took my wife's old Focus to the dealer to diagnose an ABS issue, they charged me the fee and found that one of the rear sensors was bad. Luckily, after that they only charged the cost of the part, no labor for replacement, so maybe I'll take the Edge back to that dealer.

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Don't tell them. :)

 

Removing the switch involves only removing the three screws from the lower column trim cover and pulling off the cover, turning the steering wheel 90 degrees to the left so that you can access the switch screws, removing the two switch screws and pulling the switch out. No more than 15 minutes, tops.

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Funny you mention that, since getting an Edge, my parents, sister, sister-in-law, and co-worker have all pick up one for themselves. Sister-in-law's is a 2011, but I'm not sure I could convince them to let me tear into the steering column. Thanks again for all of the info! I might just have to bit the bullet and pay the $75 "diagnostic" fee. The last time I took my wife's old Focus to the dealer to diagnose an ABS issue, they charged me the fee and found that one of the rear sensors was bad. Luckily, after that they only charged the cost of the part, no labor for replacement, so maybe I'll take the Edge back to that dealer.

 

A new switch from Ebay costs only USD 36.00. I would try that first.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-STEERING-COLUMN-TURN-SIGNAL-SWITCH-FORD-LINCOLN-VEHICLES-BT4Z-13341-BA-/360496062990?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2011%7CMake%3AFord%7CModel%3AEdge&hash=item53ef3d620e&vxp=mtr

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