NEW Photos & Movie Trailer - EDGE-2 Next GEN Daytime Running Lights

[tpm419419]

Aabon90

I was thinking the same thing so please keep us updated

[jmacd27]

Hey Jmacd27,

 

Did your tracking info on canadapost.ca or usps update after it got to Missusauga sort facility? Because my Edge-2's seem to be stuck there for the past 2 days now. also do you have your parking lights/turn signals as your current DRLS?? if so won't the turn signals in the Edge-2's be on all the time when the factory DRL's are on (parking lights on full power when DRL's are on).

The USPS site tracked my package up till delivery. Once the package got to Mississauga, Canada Post tracking stopped. Maybe your package is stuck in customs.

 

I'm not sure about how my lights will work. I asked before buying and was assured that this system was compatible with my factory HID headlights and factory DRLs. I guess worst case scenario I could get the dealer to turn of my DRL lights.

 

I hope to get a chance to try and install the lights tonight.

 

If anyone else in Canada has installed theirs, please post how it went for the rest of us.

[tazmanken]

What am I doing wrong? My driver side is giving me problems.

 

When lights are on, the passenger side is at 70% power white. The driver side is dimly lit amber.

When car is on, passenger side is 100% pwr white, driver side is dim amber.

When the hazards are on, passenger is 100% power amber flash, driver side is dim amber flash.

 

Any suggestions?

 

Pics of driver side connections:

 

Looks like you have the black wire hooked up to the wrong wire on the driver side the black wire should be hooked up to the yellow wire with a purple stripe I can see the yellow and purple wire in your picture I can't tell what color the wire is you have the white wire from the DRLs going to on your vehicle it should be hooked up to the blue wire with the green strike Edited July 11, 2013 by tazmanken

[graniteguy]

tazmanken,

My edge has the yellow/purple wire on the passenger side, and I have that one hooked to black. The driver side is blue/green-black and brown/purple-white.

 

I might try new connectors, but that doesn't make sense to me why that would fix my problem.

[tazmanken]

tazmanken,

My edge has the yellow/purple wire on the passenger side, and I have that one hooked to black. The driver side is blue/green-black and brown/purple-white.

 

I might try new connectors, but that doesn't make sense to me why that would fix my problem.

I'm sorry you are correct I had a brain fart there for a minute sorry about that. on the driver side the white wire should go to a brown with a blue stripe in the black wire should go to a blue with a green stripe Edited July 11, 2013 by tazmanken

[kc300c]

Alright guys, Here's part one of my marathon reply.

From KC300c

"I am going to be archiving that older video on my site. It was meant only to give prospective customers an idea of what is generally involved in the install. I am editing a new install video today and hope to have it up on the website this evening or first thing in the morning."

 

Thanks KC That would be of great help to me

 

Here's the new EDGE-2 LED DRL installation video. It's also up on the website:

 

 

 

I concur, I definitely don't want to lose the courtesy function of the oem lights by installing these. Dan, would you mind putting together a write up so we can maintain the stock functionality? I'm definitely going to wait to install mine until this is ironed out.

 

Also, are the lights supposed to be 100% when the parking lights are on? I thought they were supposed to dim to 70% but from reading these posts it seems that 70% is wrong.

 

Thanks,

-Russ

If you connected the white DRL trigger wire to the healdlight wire harness, then the DRLs will be at 100% with just the parking lights on, they won't dim until the headlights are switched on.

 

Here're my install notes, in no particular order:

 

1. 2012 Limited, wheel-well cover doesn't just "pull aside". There are fasteners on the bottom of the bumper as well, needing one hand to hold the guard away/open while you work inside installing lights, wires, etc.

 

2. I'm not a good wire-wrapper. I wish the negative terminal wire was longer. I hope those wires can withstand some hot temps, 'cause I'm sure there are some resting against some hoses that get very hot.

 

3. The wire-crimp/clamps provided are verrrrry cheap and not very effective. I had some others on-hand that I replaced with and this eliminated some weird behavior as well as fixed a turn-signal not working. Do yourself a favor and go get some from home depot or radio shack or wherever.

 

4. One major issue (that I resolved), the RH light set's power plug didn't seem to fit very well. After all was installed, that side didn't light up. I checked the output from the plug and there was no juice. However, on the back-side, it was getting 10-14V. So I took apart the yellow insert and the connectors had pushed back against the backside of the housing ... this was due to the light's power-prongs not being aligned with the power plug and when I inserted it, it got messed up and kinda came apart. After re-seating the power pins and straightening out the power-prongs, I plugged it in and it worked.

 

5. You'll probably need more zip-ties than are provided.

 

6. As far as I can tell, lights are 100% when "off" and "parking", and 70% when lights are "on" or "Auto".

 

7. I don't have the courtesy light setup mentioned above, just the standard install. Doesn't bother me. BUT - if I can simply switch both black wires to a different set on the parking light cluster, I probably will.

 

8. Overall it probably took me 2 hours due to install problems and re-doing some crimping and re-seating the power-housing, along with the troubleshooting that goes along with that.

 

Anyone have the color-combo for L and R parking lights that allow courtesy lighting?

 

Overall, I'm pleased with the new lights and I'm happy with the quality of the setup. I think for a first-pass product (or is this 2nd?) it's very nice.

1. Everything is relative, but I don't consider the wheel well liner to be difficult to peel back. Have done 50 plus times over the past two years. (Maybe I softend mine up over time ;-).

2. The wire insulation is rated for engine compartment use and will withstand the heat.

3. I agree that the snap-on wire connectors are on the cheap side. I know it doesn't help with these first units, but I specified higher quality ones for the next shipment. If you don't get a good cut in the wire insulation from the blades of the snap-on connector, you can use a utility knife to open up the insulation opening a little more to expose the copper conductor. This will solve any irratic behavior of the lights.

4. Do me a favor J, please email me a photo of the plug and back of housing. I haven't seen this happen to anyone else and want to make sure I understand the issue. My guess is like yours. The two metal pin contacts in the back of the DRL may have been a bit out of alignment causing the plug to have trouble seating.

5. Not sure if they made it in your box, but I added 6 more wire ties to the already included 4 that came from the factory. (Again, more wire ties will come in the next shipment of DRLs)

 

Glad you like the new lights and for the kind words about them. It has been and continues to be a learning process for these new lights. Your feedback will definately help to make the product better.

 

Ok so it seems that this is only selecting where the units draw their signal from and the actual power comes from the harness. So we should just be able to connect them to the existing pipe's power. Seems like a simple enough solution. I'd rather have them function as the courtesy lights @ 70% then not at all.

 

Thanks for the info!!

-Russ

Due to liability issues, I cannot endorse deviating from the wiring instructions I supplied with the lights. Sorry.

 

One very important note on wiring. DO NOT connect the black trigger wire to any circuit other than the turn signal wire. The amber LEDs are designed to be used in an on/off flashing function. They are not designed to be left on continuously as a parking or position light. The amber LEDs are very powerful and can put off a lot of heat if they were to be left on continuously. Just a heads up for those who are thinking about changing that wiring setup.

 

Edited July 14, 2013 by kc300c

[kc300c]

HID and/or factory DRL systems will not affect the funtioning of the EDGE-2 DRLs.

Just found out my lights will be here tomorrow, they tried to deliver to my house instead of my work, oh well glad to get them so quickly regardless.

I have another question though. My Edge has factory HID installed, and being in Canada that means DRL are law here. Therefore my front amber turn signals are my DRL. Will this affect my install to keep the new DRL bumper light working with the courtesy lights?

I looked at Dan's website and youtube channel, but there has been no update with install instructions.

Thanks for the help thus far.

 

Installed my lights yesterday and noticed something weird, when I turn on my lights without the car started only the drivers side strip will light up, not the passenger. when the car is started they both light up fine. Also when i lock or unlock the doors with the car off I do get both amber lights lit up. The only reason I noticed the passenger side not lighting up is I was trying to troubleshoot an issue with my HID's. Anyone else notice this, or is it just me.

The white LEDs of the DRLs should not come on at all until the engine is started (headlights on or not), so I'm not sure why the driver's side DRL lights up without the engine on. The only time the white LEDs will be on when the engine is off is when you turn off the engine and the headlights are set on auto. The white LEDs will stay on until the headlights timeout and go off. The only time the amber LEDs come on without the engine on is when you unlock the doors. (only a quick flash). Check your wiring connections again to make sure everything is tight. Email me at info@daytimebrightlites.com if you can't correct it and we'll troubleshoot it together.

 

 

For the love of god, those shaped "u" clips won't come off.....I did see the video of how Dan just pulls them off with a punch... But these clips must be on steroids..I have the edge se version so they come with a black fake drl so there is no space between the "u" clips. And the black plastic from the fake drl's.... I'm thinking of putting some grease on the sides of the "u" clips... To remove them......Has anyone had a hard time removing the clips, I pulled super hard but don't want to break the holder.. Any ideas?..

They are a bear. The best way is to insert the small screwdriver and pull upward and back. The upward motion breaks it free initially allowing it to be pulled back with less force.

 

I was thinking and I think you should be able to tap into the marker lights with both white and black wires from the new drl's to the marker lights on your edge that are your drl's now.So hook the black wire from the new drl's up just like the instructions tell you but hook the white wire from new drl's to the factory marker light,on my US model it is the yellow/blue wire.I think this will work for you and the new drl's should work with the courtesy function.Let me know if you try this and if it works. Ken

Repeating my earlier warning: DO NOT connect the black trigger wire to any circuit other than the turn signal wire. The amber LEDs are designed to be used in an on/off flashing function. They are not designed to be left on continuously as a parking or position light. The amber LEDs are very powerful and can put off a lot of heat if they were to be left on continuously. Just a heads up for those who are thinking about changing that wiring setup.

 

 

 

 

Edited July 11, 2013 by kc300c

[graniteguy]

I think I just ruled out the power source being the root of my problem. I took the passenger power plug out of the DRL and pluged it into the driver DRL. Same exact issues. I am starting to think I have a bad DRL.

I still have yet to see the white LEDs on the driver DRL, so I took apart the splice to the brow/blue-white wire combo. While it was disconnected, I turned on the headlights and saw one change. No dim amber with the headlights. No white lights either obviously, it was disconnected. Turn sigs still flash, but dimmer than passenger side.

I reconnected the headlight wire and everything is back to the same old head-scratching issues. Headlights on=one white, one dim amber. Hazards=one bright amber, one dim amber.

What to do next? I was going to take out the pass DRL and hook it up to the driver lights, but I am wondering how much marring these wires can take...Thoughts?

[candurin]

Can anyone confirm that if we attach the DRLs to the parking wire, they will run at 100% if headlight switch is on Auto and it is daytime (I.e. headlights are off), or is it 70% regardless of the headlights actually being on or off?

 

Or do I need to manually switch to "off" in order to get 100% brightness?

[tazmanken]

 

HID and/or factory DRL systems will not affect the funtioning of the EDGE-2 DRLs.

Just found out my lights will be here tomorrow, they tried to deliver to my house instead of my work, oh well glad to get them so quickly regardless.

 

I have another question though. My Edge has factory HID installed, and being in Canada that means DRL are law here. Therefore my front amber turn signals are my DRL. Will this affect my install to keep the new DRL bumper light working with the courtesy lights?

 

I looked at Dan's website and youtube channel, but there has been no update with install instructions.

 

Thanks for the help thus far.

 

The white LEDs of the DRLs should not come on at all until the engine is started (headlights on or not), so I'm not sure why the driver's side DRL lights up without the engine on. The only time the white LEDs will be on when the engine is off is when you turn off the engine and the headlights are set on auto. The white LEDs will stay on until the headlights timeout and go off. The only time the amber LEDs come on without the engine on is when you unlock the doors. (only a quick flash). Check your wiring connections again to make sure everything is tight. Email me at info@daytimebrightlites.com if you can't correct it and we'll troubleshoot it together.

 

 

They are a bear. The best way is to insert the small screwdriver and pull upward and back. The upward motion breaks it free initially allowing it to be pulled back with less force.

 

Repeating my earlier warning: DO NOT connect the black trigger wire to any circuit other than the turn signal wire. The amber LEDs are designed to be used in an on/off flashing function. They are not designed to be left on continuously as a parking or position light. The amber LEDs are very powerful and can put off a lot of heat if they were to be left on continuously. Just a heads up for those who are thinking about changing that wiring setup.

 

 

 

 

 

,

Edited July 13, 2013 by tazmanken

[tazmanken]

Can anyone confirm that if we attach the DRLs to the parking wire, they will run at 100% if headlight switch is on Auto and it is daytime (I.e. headlights are off), or is it 70% regardless of the headlights actually being on or off?

 

Or do I need to manually switch to "off" in order to get 100% brightness?

Edited July 13, 2013 by tazmanken

[tazmanken]

I think I just ruled out the power source being the root of my problem. I took the passenger power plug out of the DRL and pluged it into the driver DRL. Same exact issues. I am starting to think I have a bad DRL.

I still have yet to see the white LEDs on the driver DRL, so I took apart the splice to the brow/blue-white wire combo. While it was disconnected, I turned on the headlights and saw one change. No dim amber with the headlights. No white lights either obviously, it was disconnected. Turn sigs still flash, but dimmer than passenger side.

I reconnected the headlight wire and everything is back to the same old head-scratching issues. Headlights on=one white, one dim amber. Hazards=one bright amber, one dim amber.

What to do next? I was going to take out the pass DRL and hook it up to the driver lights, but I am wondering how much marring these wires can take...Thoughts?

Edited July 13, 2013 by tazmanken

[jmacd27]

Thanks tazmanken, I only had time to last night physically install the lights and feed the wires to their proper places and secure them. I ran out if time to hook any of the lights up, I may try and find time at lunch to do it.

 

The suspense and anticipation is killing me lol.

[tazmanken]

 

HID and/or factory DRL systems will not affect the funtioning of the EDGE-2 DRLs.

Just found out my lights will be here tomorrow, they tried to deliver to my house instead of my work, oh well glad to get them so quickly regardless.

 

I have another question though. My Edge has factory HID installed, and being in Canada that means DRL are law here. Therefore my front amber turn signals are my DRL. Will this affect my install to keep the new DRL bumper light working with the courtesy lights?

 

I looked at Dan's website and youtube channel, but there has been no update with install instructions.

 

Thanks for the help thus far.

 

The white LEDs of the DRLs should not come on at all until the engine is started (headlights on or not), so I'm not sure why the driver's side DRL lights up without the engine on. The only time the white LEDs will be on when the engine is off is when you turn off the engine and the headlights are set on auto. The white LEDs will stay on until the headlights timeout and go off. The only time the amber LEDs come on without the engine on is when you unlock the doors. (only a quick flash). Check your wiring connections again to make sure everything is tight. Email me at info@daytimebrightlites.com if you can't correct it and we'll troubleshoot it together.

 

 

They are a bear. The best way is to insert the small screwdriver and pull upward and back. The upward motion breaks it free initially allowing it to be pulled back with less force.

 

Repeating my earlier warning: DO NOT connect the black trigger wire to any circuit other than the turn signal wire. The amber LEDs are designed to be used in an on/off flashing function. They are not designed to be left on continuously as a parking or position light. The amber LEDs are very powerful and can put off a lot of heat if they were to be left on continuously. Just a heads up for those who are thinking about changing that wiring setup.

 

 

 

 

 

Just to clarify I DID NOT tell anyone to move the BLACK wire on the new edge 2's,it should be hooked up like the instructions say.

[graniteguy]

Well, I've exhausted my limited wiring capabilities and I have no solution. I even ran a jumper wire from the passenger headlight wire over to the driver DRL and had the same result. Then hooked up both white DRL wires to the same headlight wire and one DRL is glowing white, one is dim amber. WTF? That make absolutely no sense.

[jmacd27]

Here're my install notes, in no particular order:

 

 

4. One major issue (that I resolved), the RH light set's power plug didn't seem to fit very well. After all was installed, that side didn't light up. I checked the output from the plug and there was no juice. However, on the back-side, it was getting 10-14V. So I took apart the yellow insert and the connectors had pushed back against the backside of the housing ... this was due to the light's power-prongs not being aligned with the power plug and when I inserted it, it got messed up and kinda came apart. After re-seating the power pins and straightening out the power-prongs, I plugged it in and it worked

I just ran into this same issue. I didn't have time to trouble shoot it yet, but it is the same R/H plug.It didn't feel the same when I clicked it on like the L/H side did. When I press on the back of the plug, the lights would then come on. I will try to mess with the plug later and see if I can get it fixed as well.

[jtudor]

I just want to say I am more than happy with the new setup and I did have to call Dan this morning about my Edge not starting after the install but then later realized it was my own fault (put the fuse adapter in the wrong slot) but Dan answered the phone, walked me right through it and didn't make me feel like an idiot because boy did I feel like it after we disconnected.

[tpm419419]

Dan's the Man ?

[kc300c]

Awe shucks guys. Twern't nothin'

[jmacd27]

Just an update on my install. The plug was faulty, as mentioned before the pins in the plug get pushed out towards the back when pressed onto the light connector. I took the rear of the plug apart and pressed them back in. I reinstalled the plug but the same thing happened again. This time I left the plug on the light and pressed the pins back in place. This time the lights worked fine. I'm sure I'll have to plug it in this way any time I remove the plug, but that won't happen often so no big deal.

 

Don't be a dummy like me and forget to pull the fuse before using a screwdriver to push the pins in the plug, or you will have to replace a fuse lol.

 

I hope this helps anyone else with this issue.

[RustyEdge]

So I just installed mine and all went well!! Didn't have any issues with the splice connections and I hooked them up to the yellow power wire from the stock light pipes. Everything functions and I still have the courtesy function which is exactly what I wanted. Can't wait to see these at dusk

 

The only gripe I had is that the wire coming from the controller to the passenger side DRL wasn't long enough to allow me to mount the controller where Dan had in his video. It was probably about 3" short of what I needed. I was running the wire across the fan and down by the passenger light, not sure where everyone else ran theirs. So I then was trying to mount it in front of the fuse box but the wire running to the negative terminal would be too short then. I ended up zip tieing it near the battery where I found an open spot. Not sure if it was just mine or if anyone else had this problem.

 

At the end of the day it took me about 90 minutes after figuring out how to run the wires and taping everything up. I even taped off the connector from the stock light pipes to not let any water in, I'm a bit of a neat freak too so that slowed me down.

 

-Russ

[tazmanken]

So I just installed mine and all went well!! Didn't have any issues with the splice connections and I hooked them up to the yellow power wire from the stock light pipes. Everything functions and I still have the courtesy function which is exactly what I wanted. Can't wait to see these at dusk

 

The only gripe I had is that the wire coming from the controller to the passenger side DRL wasn't long enough to allow me to mount the controller where Dan had in his video. It was probably about 3" short of what I needed. I was running the wire across the fan and down by the passenger light, not sure where everyone else ran theirs. So I then was trying to mount it in front of the fuse box but the wire running to the negative terminal would be too short then. I ended up zip tieing it near the battery where I found an open spot. Not sure if it was just mine or if anyone else had this problem.

 

At the end of the day it took me about 90 minutes after figuring out how to run the wires and taping everything up. I even taped off the connector from the stock light pipes to not let any water in, I'm a bit of a neat freak too so that slowed me down.

 

-Russ

I mounted mine the same way and place you did for the same reason.

[jtudor]

Just throwing this out there and I'm not saying this to be mean but there were 2 different lengths of wiring from the relay, the longer one reached fine with even some slack afterwards.

[RustyEdge]

Just throwing this out there and I'm not saying this to be mean but there were 2 different lengths of wiring from the relay, the longer one reached fine with even some slack afterwards.

Yea I did measure before I started too. Literally like 3" short or less.

[kc300c]

First, let me say thank you for everyone's help in describing the things you came accross during installation. These are incredibly helpful. You are the best and i'm lucky to have such a great resource to help me work through these issues.

 

 

Just an update on my install. The plug was faulty, as mentioned before the pins in the plug get pushed out towards the back when pressed onto the light connector. I took the rear of the plug apart and pressed them back in. I reinstalled the plug but the same thing happened again. This time I left the plug on the light and pressed the pins back in place. This time the lights worked fine. I'm sure I'll have to plug it in this way any time I remove the plug, but that won't happen often so no big deal.

Don't be a dummy like me and forget to pull the fuse before using a screwdriver to push the pins in the plug, or you will have to replace a fuse lol.

I hope this helps anyone else with this issue.

 

I know this doesn't help you all, but I have begun 100% bench testing inspections of all of the kits I have in stock. I hook everything up, power it on and test to make sure all functions work perfectly. I discovered 5 kits out of 50 had an issue with the alignment of the DRL pins or a plug that did not have the female electrical contact fully seated inside the plug housing. They have been quarantined and are on there way back to my manufacturer, so he can make the necessary changes to his assembly procedures and to add a new inspection item to his quality control checks.

I was able to realign the pins in one of the DRLs to allow the plug to easily connect, but I'm not going to do that on any of the units I find while testing. They will go back to my manufacturer to have that done.

 

 

So I just installed mine and all went well!! Didn't have any issues with the splice connections and I hooked them up to the yellow power wire from the stock light pipes. Everything functions and I still have the courtesy function which is exactly what I wanted. Can't wait to see these at dusk

 

The only gripe I had is that the wire coming from the controller to the passenger side DRL wasn't long enough to allow me to mount the controller where Dan had in his video. It was probably about 3" short of what I needed. I was running the wire across the fan and down by the passenger light, not sure where everyone else ran theirs. So I then was trying to mount it in front of the fuse box but the wire running to the negative terminal would be too short then. I ended up zip tieing it near the battery where I found an open spot. Not sure if it was just mine or if anyone else had this problem.

 

At the end of the day it took me about 90 minutes after figuring out how to run the wires and taping everything up. I even taped off the connector from the stock light pipes to not let any water in, I'm a bit of a neat freak too so that slowed me down.

 

-Russ

 

I was not totally happy with the length of the passenger side wire either. It took me a little time routing the wire in various positions to find the best path. It would be helpful, but not absolutely necessary, if one of you who couldn't run along the back to send me the measurement of your passenger side DRL wire, so I can see if it is shorter than mine.

 

I will be measuring all of the harnesses I have in inventory to see if there are any short wires. I know this doesn't help you guys, but we are adding an addition 24 inches to the passenger side DRL wire. I would rather have a little extra slack to wire tie up than to have to spend time coming up with a complex wiring strategy.

 

Thanks again for helping me to make my new EDGE-2s a better product for future customers. If anyone feels strongly about wanting me to send them a longer wire, please let me know. I will have my manufacturer make up some sets and I can get them to you. It will take some time to get them, but I would be willing to do it. Please send me an email (not a PM please). info@DAYTIMEBrightLites.com.

Edited July 14, 2013 by kc300c