Dead Battery

[OverHeight]

Any updates on this?

 

My wife's 2013 Sport just popped up the system off to save battery message. She has 88,000km (54,000 miles) and it is a 2012 build. So basically just over 3 years old. Tested battery last night and its sitting at 10.03 volts. So hopefully get it into dealer today and hopefully its just the battery and not the issues discussed in this thread.

 

One interesting caveat though related to the Park brake position sensor. A couple of months ago we were parked somewhere (Engine off and in Park, no Park brake though) and I hopped out for a minute, when I jumped back in the car started to roll a little bit. So i put my foot on the ground and started to push and it kept moving. Checked shifter that it was in park and still rolling. Now its not done it since. But after reading this thread and the sensor issue, just wondering if they are related.

[jimhi]

We are having these problems with our 2013 edge after she took it in for service, they replaced a fuse which the ticket writer implied my wife was lying and also stated you have 33k miles on your car as if we should expect component failures after that few miles.

 

We bought this car because she liked the look and the options, but all of our Chevy's over 450k on 1 and 250k on the other, and Toyota's have over 100k without this type of issue.

 

The battery keeps dying, we receive a message that the USB is not supported. AAA said the alternator was fine.

[enigma-2]

First thing i would suspect is the battery itself. I would have the battery tested with a professional battery tester. Your dealer will probably do this for you free, in expectation of selling you a new battery. Btw, if you do need one, Ford has a coupon on their website for a 84 month battery. As for 33k and have problems, you should expect problems with anything mechanical or electrical, no matter what the age. Things fail. Batteries fail at different times depending on the loads and enviroment they have been exposed to. I've had a Diehard fail in less than one year. Had a Motorcraft go six years. (Shrug).

Edited January 18, 2016 by enigma-2

[Dcox]

I purchased a 2013 Ford Edge in 2013. I replaced the battery in 2014 and late 2015. I took the car to the dealership in 2015 and they told me it was the battery not the car. I took the batter back to the place of purchase and 3 other auto stores and they all stated the battery tested fine. I bought a new battery from the dealership and now 3 months later in January of 2016, my battery died again. The dealership tells me again nothing is wrong and they can't find any draws on my battery. I have now purchased batteries in every year that I have owned the car and it CANNOT be the battery each time. I was told by both the dealership and the Ford Customer Service department that there is no known issue with the 2013 Ford Edge and a battery drain. This forum and others I have found would suggest otherwise.

 

I have the following issues:

1) Battery saver notification

2) Automatic headlights seem to make the issue worse

3) Traction control will flash on dash while car is running and in park

4) Car will ding as I open my car like I left my keys in ignition but they aren't, The only way to get to turn off is to put keys back in and turn car on and then off again

5) Sometimes the car acts like my car is not in park but it is

 

At this point, I just want a car that is reliable and will start.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Sounds like you need a good servicing dealership. Who are currently going to? Are there other dealerships nearby? If no Ford dealerships, try a Lincoln dealership instead. Report a SHIFT TO PARK issue (faulty shifter), and that the Battery Management System needs resetting. There may be a wheel sensor issue also, but get the shifter fixed first.

 

You can also try PM'ing FordService (the official reps on this forum, Tricia is our current contact) to see what they can do. They are usually more helpful than the phone-in service. You need 5 posts on the forum to PM, you can make test posts here if you like.

[macbwt]

My co worker is have similar issues with a 2011 SEL Dealer can not find the problem and Ford is not providing guidance.

I purchased a 2013 Ford Edge in 2013. I replaced the battery in 2014 and late 2015. I took the car to the dealership in 2015 and they told me it was the battery not the car. I took the batter back to the place of purchase and 3 other auto stores and they all stated the battery tested fine. I bought a new battery from the dealership and now 3 months later in January of 2016, my battery died again. The dealership tells me again nothing is wrong and they can't find any draws on my battery. I have now purchased batteries in every year that I have owned the car and it CANNOT be the battery each time. I was told by both the dealership and the Ford Customer Service department that there is no known issue with the 2013 Ford Edge and a battery drain. This forum and others I have found would suggest otherwise.

 

I have the following issues:

1) Battery saver notification

2) Automatic headlights seem to make the issue worse

3) Traction control will flash on dash while car is running and in park

4) Car will ding as I open my car like I left my keys in ignition but they aren't, The only way to get to turn off is to put keys back in and turn car on and then off again

5) Sometimes the car acts like my car is not in park but it is

 

At this point, I just want a car that is reliable and will start.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Show the dealer the SHIFT TO PARK - related TSB(s), that should get 'em kickstarted.

[Kleber Gomes]

Show the dealer the SHIFT TO PARK - related TSB(s), that should get 'em kickstarted.

 

I'm gonna do it this friday ... just expecting to see how Ford will answer this request in the dealer here in Brazil. (they're famous for the "bad quality" in any support after sales). Let's see.

 

My cousin has a 2012 FWD Edge and he started to have problems after replacing some internal lights by LED. Suddenly the car "died" (including ignition) and only some few electrical parts continue to work. Do you have anything similar? Have you replaced any electrical part (including lamps) outside of dealers, or not by original products?

 

BR/Kleber

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Haven't had any problems with the LED lighting I have installed, knock on wood. They continue to work fine, going on 2 years now. I am sure you are aware that when you buy LEDs from "overseas" sources, there is little to no quality control in most cases. Will they work properly? Will they last? Are they performing to the seller's claimed ratings? Everything is up for grabs.

 

You have to be very patient to get the products you want. A fault in electrical parts like these can feed back into the BCM and cause expensive problems. Quality controlled products from Osram and Philips are of course some of the best, but they are also very expensive.

[fernandr]

Leased this Ford Edge in May 2013. For the first 1.5 years it was great, but just a few weeks ago the battery I could tell was not at 100% because the way it sounded when starting. This morning it was dead. There must have been a power drain someplace in the systems. Over the last year or so it would tell me when I put it in park that it was not in park. the seat would not go to exit mode, and sometime would not return to driving mode when I start the car. Just yesterday it would not reset to position one or two which I took it somehow lost the memory for that function.

[enigma-2]

Someone posted in one of the forums I follow (could be this one, don't remember) that they traced the battery drain to the shifter not triggering in park. Left the car thinking that it was still in drive or neutral and allowed one of the accessories to continue to function, draining the battery. All of the other problems can be traced to a weak battety.

[Barrett]

My 2013 Ford Edge was running fine. Parked it in my garage Saturday night.. in and out of the garage all night so we would have noticed radio/lights/etc on & running. Came out to a DEAD battery in the morning in addition to the "Battery Saver - System Off" notice. Jumped it and started right up... Took it around the block and let it run 10 minutes. Waited 4 hours and tried to start again and it has a little slow but started right up but noticed some of the electrical components took longer than normal to turn off but all turned off after we locked the car from the keypad on the door (hmmmmm). Monday morning went to start it and NOTHING again. Now the really weird stuff starts. The doors won't lock or unlock, the keys are not in the ignition but the door ajar sound is alarming even when it's closed, the headlights are on but again NO KEYS IN THE IGNITION. I have video of all of this and an appt at the dealership but reading all of this thread makes me very uneasy. I have never had the "shift to park" notice but it obvious the car thinks it's in drive because the door ajar is sounding, the headlights and flashers are going off and the lift gate won't open.

 

I will take ANY advice before I go to the dealership so I can get this fixed ASAP. There is no way I can go without a car for more than a few days. UGH.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Frustrated in Chatt.

[akirby]

So it never occurred to you to replace the battery?

[enigma-2]

I have a Solar BA7 battery checker which has shown my battery with over 14 volts but around 100+ low on CCAs. But it cranked the engine just fine as it always started. Until Saturday at the grocery story. Dead. Couldn't believe it, started great all day. I jumped it wit a small jumper battety I carry (mainly to help others who have a dead battety) and we git home ok. Started next day 1st time but not rest od day. Put the Solar checker on it and was reading 10.4 volts and was unable to get a valid CCA reading. Had a new Motorcraft Max battery put in at local Ford dealer and all is well.

 

You have a bad battery. Everything can be traced back to a weak battery.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Great story, enigma!

[Doug Milliken]

I have a battery drain problem similar to a lot of the posts on this Forum. I bought my 2013 Edge 3.5L V6 in October 2012. 2 years and 10 months and 23,400 miles later the battery failed. Ken Grody Ford in Buena Park replaced the battery with a Motorcraft BXT-59 lead acid battery (540 cold cranking amps) with a 36 month free replacement warranty. That battery has now failed after another 2 years and 1 month and 20,400 miles. I added distilled water to the cells and charged it, but it doesn't seem to want to hold a charge.

 

We have always had an intermittent issue when the ignition is turned off and the key removed, but the computer display indicates all is not shut off, with the "FORD" emblem showing. To get the display to turn off, we can re-start the car and shut it off again until it shuts off properly with a dark display. We discovered that it is not always necessary to re-start the car, but just re-insert the key and turn it hard CCW against the stop and then remove it, and this time maybe the display will shut off.

 

Also intermittently when shutting off the ignition the car will sometimes ding as I open the car door as if I had left the keys in the ignition, but they are in my hand. To stop the dinging it is necessary to re-start the car and shut it off again, or sometimes just insert the key and turn it hard CCW against the stop.

 

I suspect that somehow something is left on and draining the battery even when the key has been removed and the display is dark. Faulty ignition switch? (body computer module does not know the key has been removed). Faulty shift mechanism? (body computer module does not know the shift lever is in park). Faulty body computer module/software? I don't know.

 

The second dead battery happened yesterday, right after 2 weeks of non-use while we were on vacation. This indicates to me that something may be causing a slow drain on the battery even when the car is in the garage and shut off. Monday it goes back to the dealer for another diagnostic check.

 

[enigma-2]

My 09 was leaving the radio on after I open the door. I sprayed silicone into the ignition cylinder and so far it hasn't reoccured. (But it's only a band aid I imagine).

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

I Would upgrade to a group 65 agm battery, as it will survive repeated discharges. Also, a shift to park issue or a skipping cd player , or door ajar issue could easily drain the battery.

 

Clean the terminals, make sure they are tight, and protect them with dielectric grease.

 

Test the battery/alternator with a Solar BA7. If your drives are short/lowspeed, consider periodically putting the battery on a smart charger.

[Doug Milliken]

I have a battery drain problem similar to a lot of the posts on this Forum. I bought my 2013 Edge 3.5L V6 in October 2012. 2 years and 10 months and 23,400 miles later the battery failed. Ken Grody Ford in Buena Park replaced the battery with a Motorcraft BXT-59 lead acid battery (540 cold cranking amps) with a 36 month free replacement warranty. That battery has now failed after another 2 years and 1 month and 20,400 miles. I added distilled water to the cells and charged it, but it doesn't seem to want to hold a charge.

 

We have always had an intermittent issue when the ignition is turned off and the key removed, but the computer display indicates all is not shut off, with the "FORD" emblem showing. To get the display to turn off, we can re-start the car and shut it off again until it shuts off properly with a dark display. We discovered that it is not always necessary to re-start the car, but just re-insert the key and turn it hard CCW against the stop and then remove it, and this time maybe the display will shut off.

 

Also intermittently when shutting off the ignition the car will sometimes ding as I open the car door as if I had left the keys in the ignition, but they are in my hand. To stop the dinging it is necessary to re-start the car and shut it off again, or sometimes just insert the key and turn it hard CCW against the stop.

 

I suspect that somehow something is left on and draining the battery even when the key has been removed and the display is dark. Faulty ignition switch? (body computer module does not know the key has been removed). Faulty shift mechanism? (body computer module does not know the shift lever is in park). Faulty body computer module/software? I don't know.

 

The second dead battery happened yesterday, right after 2 weeks of non-use while we were on vacation. This indicates to me that something may be causing a slow drain on the battery even when the car is in the garage and shut off. Monday it goes back to the dealer for another diagnostic check.

 

 

Oct 17, 2017 UPDATE. I took the Edge to the dealer who confirmed that the Motorcraft BXT-59 lead-acid replacement battery that they installed on warranty is in fact dead after an additional 20,400 miles and 2 yrs 1 month. Yes, a 3 yr warranted Motorcraft battery dead after 2 yrs. But no warranty for me because I didn't pay for the battery. Positive terminal was severely corroded. I purchased an Interstate 850 CCA size group 65 battery at Costco for $98 and had the Ford dealer install it. They had to replace positive terminal connection hardware which is a rather complex piece. Cost $180. They ran diagnostics and said there was no problem of any kind. Alternator good, no drains, no defects.

 

My conclusion now is that these cars just eat batteries for lunch and it is characteristic of the Edge electronics, get used to it. My recommendation is to purchase a premium sealed (maintenance free) battery outside of Ford dealer with the longest full replacement warranty available. 2013 Edge comes with a Size Group 59 battery, but Size Group 65 fits and is 2 inches longer giving more capacity. My local Costco recommended an Interstate Size Group 65 with 850 CCA (cold cranking amps). The Ford Motorcraft replacement battery was only 540 CCA. So I have a bigger, stronger sealed battery with a 42 month free replacement warranty. If my Edge burns it out in less than the 3 1/2 yr warranty I get a new one. The other thing I have done is purchased a good smart charger. I plan to hook it up several times a week just to monitor the voltage. When I put it on trickle charge in the evening it will bring the battery up to 100% charge and then shut itself off. I'm going to keep a spreadsheet of voltage condition to see what conditions seem to draw down the battery. And when I go on another 2 week plus vacation with the car garaged, it will be interesting to see how far down the voltage drains just sitting idle. Then when I get home I will check voltage and charge before driving anywhere. That's it. My car eats batteries. Get used to it.

 

Edited October 18, 2017 by Doug Milliken

[enigma-2]

I seriously doubt that you car is eating your battery.

 

A batterys lifespan is directly influenced by two factors, surrounding temperature and driving habits.

 

Hot climate will evaporate the water from the electrolyte. By periodically checking the battery's water level and bringing it back to the full level, will greatly extend its lifespan. (How often does anyone check their battery's water level)?

 

Stop and start driving and driving short trips (under 20 minutes) on a regular basis doesn't give the alternator enough time to recharge. Done on a regular basis with slowly but consistently will shorten its life expectancy. (Never really fully recharges by reversing the chemical reaction from starting).

 

You may not be able to prevent short trips, but you can counter it's effects by using one of the new types of battery chargers, ones that use pulse charging.

 

These new types of chargers can break down the crystals that form on the plates and return a battery to its original CCA rating. (A regular battery charger will recharge a battery, but it will only recharge to a reduced CCA rating).

 

For example, assume a new battery is rated at 665 Cold-Cranking Amps. But due to short trips, the plates have sulphated and the battety can only deliver 554 CCAs. After two years the battery may only be able to deliver 480 CCAs. Sooner or later it's going to prematurely fail.

 

Here's an example of the type of charger I'm talking about.

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006G14FK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lHp6zb8SZEEQK

[akirby]

Just get a solar BA-7 tester and a C-Tek charger.

[Doug Milliken]

enigma-2, I appreciate your opinion, but I seriously doubt that my car is not eating batteries. I have lived in the same region with the same weather and the same driving habits for over 40 years. During this period I can't count how many cars I have owned. All kinds. And my 2013 Ford Edge is the first one that is on its 3rd battery in less than 45K miles. Never anything even approaching that horrible record. Garaged next to my Edge is a 2006 Chrysler 300 with 96K miles on it that got its first battery replacement after 7 years and 85,000 miles. So I reject the notion that my Edge battery problems are because I don't maintain my battery properly. Everybody has their theories and their beliefs, but I live with my car, and it eats batteries, as others have reported on this forum. By the way, I just bought an Optima D400 charger which is probably similar to the one you gave a link to. Getting pro-active. Thanks for your input.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Since you have identified a problem/solution related to the ignition switch, that may bear further investigation. I Assume you do not have push-start. I used to have a kinda related issue in my 2007. Until they replaced the cylinder/switch. Still would act up occasionally, till i got the Optima in there. No idea why.

[Doug Milliken]

The dealer has full diagnostic capabilioty that I don't have, and they say they have run all the checks and find no defects or anything causing an improper drain on my battery. So they deny there is any issue with my ignition or my shift linkage. Of course they cannot recreate the intermittent issues I have had and reported. These things are never recreated for dealer mechanics. Never.

[macbwt]

I think a Solar BA 7 is a good investment for checking batteries. My alternator was acting normal in most cases but shunting charge just enough to not charge the battery but barely maintain it and loosing ground with each use.