Wiring in Resistors for Turn Signals 2013 Edge Sport

[inthefuture1955]

Nick may be right about using FORscan but I'm a wrench and screwdriver type of guy. The idea of using anything to modify the programming of a computer that controls a vehicle (at least me doing it) is something I avoid if I can do it with a simple mechanical approach.

 

As for the resistors, just make sure you *don't* buy no-name ones.

Edited September 18, 2016 by inthefuture1955

[inthefuture1955]

Using switchback DRL LED's aslo makes for a very bright set of courtesy lights, so keep that in mind when choosing what type of LED's you go with.

 

I can't state strongly enough on testing the fit of the new bulbs before putting them in place. The lamp housing has to be removed to get a bulb back out. There is *no* plate below the turn signal socket so the bulb *will* fall into the bottom of the lamp housing.

Edited September 18, 2016 by inthefuture1955

[TheWizard]

I needed to use Phillips 6-ohm resistors (Phillips are commercial grade) to use with my CANbus. Yes, even though they were CANbus, I was still having a problem with hyper-flash, probably because the bulbs were "switchback" Amber/White and the bleed-back through the white, since the white are off when the amber are on. This is different for non-switchback LED's in that then parking element remain on when the turn signal is on. When I had instilled the Amber only CANbus in the rear I did not have (and still don't) this problem.

 

I have a 2013 Edge and I've replaced all of my bulbs with LED's, except the headlights.

 

So, if you are using switchback type, even if they are CANbus, you'll almost certainly need a resistor on each.

 

Also, the Phillips run very cool, they are more expensive, but worth the higher price. (@30 a pair) I used thermal ADHESIVE to anchor them in place as there was no way to get into where I had to place them to screw them in place. Make sure you anchor to a metal surface.

 

The wiring color code listed earlier helped a lot. Thank you for that information.

 

Hope this helps others making the conversion. Start in the back with CANbus and you should be fine with standard bulbs up front. You may need do some testing for the front LED's.

 

So, good luck.

 

There are two types of switchback LED bulbs known as AW (type 1 - Amber/White) and AO (type 2 - Amber/Off). The AW bulbs flash alternate amber and white when the secondary (parking light) circuit is active. The AO flash amber only regardless of whether the secondary circuit is active. If it is, they return to solid white only after the turn signal has stopped flashing amber. It sounds like a pair of AO switchbacks may not have had the hyperflash issue you experienced (although they still might have depending on the specific model).

 

For automotive turn signal use there is absolutely no need to go with expensive resistors. Any of the $6 - $8 resistor sets with built-in heat sink that are sold for that purpose on Amazon or at most auto parts stores will do the job just as well and last just as long. I have some that have gone almost 80,000 miles already without any issues. And even if they didn't last as long, I could replace them four times over for the cost of one set of Phillips. Unless you work for Phillips or you drive around with your turn signals or hazards on all the time, they are just unnecessary expense for this application.

 

BTW, unless you have done some modifications, your switchbacks are not DRLs - they're parking lights.

 

 

The 2011-2015 MKX has rear LED lights, when I connect FORScan I find options under the body control module for front & rear bulb outage. The fronts are enabled & the rears are disabled. I believe that disabling the fronts also will make LED signals flash normally without the need for resistors. Since the option is available for the MKX, I would expect the same to be for the Edge.

 

That is a great idea except that using the app involves buying an OBD II adapter and the app itself. The app is only about $5 but the adapters range from $30 to over $900 so as long as you're not buying "name brand" resistors and don't have plans to make other changes, resistors are cheaper. Still, I like the idea that such obscure settings can be changed fairly easily so it's certainly worth considering.

[Nick Halstead]

 

That is a great idea except that using the app involves buying an OBD II adapter and the app itself. The app is only about $5 but the adapters range from $30 to over $900 so as long as you're not buying "name brand" resistors and don't have plans to make other changes, resistors are cheaper. Still, I like the idea that such obscure settings can be changed fairly easily so it's certainly worth considering.

Forscan is free (laptop)...and yes you need an obd reader but the benefit of the reader for other reasons makes the purchase worthy.

[TheWizard]

No question that it's a useful program for those who want those capabilities. But it may be overkill for those who only want to replace incandescent bulbs with LEDs and have no other use for programming changes (or even scan codes). Using resistors is a low cost solution that will work with basically any make or model (although I have had difficulties with some BMW motorcycles).

 

And not everyone has a Windows laptop to use for the program so the Android and Apple mobile apps cost money... even though it's only $4.61 on Google Play. Also, have you noticed that there hasn't been a stable release for Windows in at least two years? Lots of releases but every one is listed as Beta.

Edited September 18, 2016 by TheWizard

[inthefuture1955]

I may have used the term DRL's a broadly, but the lights are are on when the bumper lights are on, which I always see referred to as DRL's. Parking lights stay on as long as the switch in is that position, but the turn signal bulbs go out with the headlights and the bumper lights after dark when the ignition is turned off.

 

It also how I have seen amber/white switchbacks referred to elsewhere (DriveBroght.com for example) in regard to the bumper lights. Others may only consider the headlights alone as DRL's. And they are on during the day when the light switch is in the DRL position, again with the bumper lights.

 

Some of the use of the term itself maybe a matter of semantics, as some members consider that only the headlights are DRL's as they are on only when the transmission is not in Park. I consider that if a light is on during the day when the ignition is on and the light switch is set to DRL to be a DRL. The intensity of the switchbacks (parking lights are pretty dim, switchbacks are anything but dim) also make them DRL's. Whatever.

 

More important to me was getting the LED turn signals working without hyper-flash. The wiring information provided was exactly what I needed, helping others with the hyper-flash issue was also important, the rest is only of minor consideration.

 

Others have mentioned FORscan, but as I mentioned earlier, I'm a wrench and screwdriver type of guy. I don't have an OBD cable or the software, and the idea of changing the configuration of a computer that controls a vehicle is something I would like to avoid, especially if all I need is a couple of wire taps and resistors and a pair or pliers.

 

6 of one, 1/2 a dozen of another.

Edited September 19, 2016 by inthefuture1955

[omar302]

And not everyone has a Windows laptop to use for the program so the Android and Apple mobile apps cost money... even though it's only $4.61 on Google Play. Also, have you noticed that there hasn't been a stable release for Windows in at least two years? Lots of releases but every one is listed as Beta.

Yes you need a Windows laptop. The Android version, as far as I know, does not have the module programming facility.

[inthefuture1955]

The switchbacks I installed behave in the same manner as most foctory (Lexus is an example that quickly comes to mind) systems behave: white on when the turn signal is off, white off and amber flashing while the turn signal is on (which makes the amber element stand out better) and after a 5 second delay (so that the internal circuit can detect that the turn signal is off) the white comes back on. I bought this type deliberately.

 

It is also the same pattern used by DriveBright for their replacement super bright (I guess about 4x brighter than the originals) bumper light replacements that have a built-in turn signal. BTB, this is not a pitch for DriveBright; I mention them only because I'm familiar with their products, others may be available. The light have an additional wire that is tapped into the turn signal to flash with the turn signal.

 

I have been converting to LED's as quickly as possible to make my Edge highly visible. I've already been hit once by a driver that never saw me when she pulled out from a bus stop (parked illegally, she was determined to be completely at fault) making me more determined to make the transition as fast as possible.

 

I can't recommend converting over strongly enough. I started in the back to make me clearly visible from the back, especially when I use the brakes.

[Nick Halstead]

As long as you dont use LED headlight bulbs you will be good

 

The switchbacks I installed behave in the same manner as most foctory (Lexus is an example that quickly comes to mind) systems behave: white on when the turn signal is off, white off and amber flashing while the turn signal is on (which makes the amber element stand out better) and after a 5 second delay (so that the internal circuit can detect that the turn signal is off) the white comes back on. I bought this type deliberately.

It is also the same pattern used by DriveBright for their replacement super bright (I guess about 4x brighter than the originals) bumper light replacements that have a built-in turn signal. BTB, this is not a pitch for DriveBright; I mention them only because I'm familiar with their products, others may be available. The light have an additional wire that is tapped into the turn signal to flash with the turn signal.

I have been converting to LED's as quickly as possible to make my Edge highly visible. I've already been hit once by a driver that never saw me when she pulled out from a bus stop (parked illegally, she was determined to be completely at fault) making me more determined to make the transition as fast as possible.

I can't recommend converting over strongly enough. I started in the back to make me clearly visible from the back, especially when I use the brakes.

[TheWizard]

I may have used the term DRL's a broadly, but the lights are are on when the bumper lights are on, which I always see referred to as DRL's. Parking lights stay on as long as the switch in is that position, but the turn signal bulbs go out with the headlights and the bumper lights after dark when the ignition is turned off.

 

It also how I have seen amber/white switchbacks referred to elsewhere (DriveBroght.com for example) in regard to the bumper lights. Others may only consider the headlights alone as DRL's. And they are on during the day when the light switch is in the DRL position, again with the bumper lights.

 

Some of the use of the term itself maybe a matter of semantics, as some members consider that only the headlights are DRL's as they are on only when the transmission is not in Park. I consider that if a light is on during the day when the ignition is on and the light switch is set to DRL to be a DRL. The intensity of the switchbacks (parking lights are pretty dim, switchbacks are anything but dim) also make them DRL's. Whatever.

 

More important to me was getting the LED turn signals working without hyper-flash. The wiring information provided was exactly what I needed, helping others with the hyper-flash issue was also important, the rest is only of minor consideration.

 

Others have mentioned FORscan, but as I mentioned earlier, I'm a wrench and screwdriver type of guy. I don't have an OBD cable or the software, and the idea of changing the configuration of a computer that controls a vehicle is something I would like to avoid, especially if all I need is a couple of wire taps and resistors and a pair or pliers.

 

6 of one, 1/2 a dozen of another.

 

Just to clarify...

 

DRLs are Daytime Running Lights that are front only lights designed to be on during daylight hours when none of the other lights are on. They may or may not be linked to the transmission or parking brake because jurisdictions that require them only specify that they must be on while on public roads. They must have a certain specified minimum brightness usually expressed as a "clearly visible from a distance of..." clause in the regulation.

 

Edge models before 2015 do not have DRLs in the USA. They do in Canada because the law requires them there. Your headlight switch does not have a DRL position - it has Off, Park, On, and (optionally) Auto. The Auto position merely turns on the lights (headlights and tail lights) when a dash mounted sensor determines it's dark outside. The factory bumper lights are merely accent lights because they only come on with the other lights and they are much too dim to work as DRLs. The DBL aftermarket replacements are true DRLs because they are much brighter and have modified wiring so that they turn on with the ignition and are on during the day when no other lights are in use. They are a great product that anyone interested in having DRLs should consider buying.

[inthefuture1955]

As a said, semantics. I just know that at least one company (DriveBright) calls them DRL's (I already knew what the initials stand for [that you felt it necessary to explain initials to me came across as a bit insulting]). I know of other people that call them that. You define them as you choose, I'll define them as I do. Whatever. If I'm using it the wrong way, fine, I don't particularly care. Let's not start a flame war over this. This issue of discussion wis installing resistors to stop hyper-flash when you switch to LED's, switchbacks or standard amber (no white).

 

Other members said that hyper-flash can be prevented using FORscan, which, for those members that know about connecting a laptop to the car is probably a nice idea as alternative to installiang resistors. I have a 10 inch Tab that I use as my laptop, and I don't want to know about changing computer code in 2 1/2-ton projectile. I go back to carburetors days. Those types of things I know and like to work on. Vehicle computers, MAF sensors and the like are not what I know about and I let the computer stay as it is. I'm just more comfortable with that. I had the dealership install the factory remote start, but if I need to rebuild a carberator, that I can do.

 

Others may be much happier using FORscan instead of resistors, so this is place to discuss it. For me, I chose to use resistors.

 

I needed the color codes and that's what I found here. I provided some advice about resistors and switchbacks that I learned about. Anything else is just noise.

Edited September 20, 2016 by inthefuture1955

[inthefuture1955]

Nick said "As long as you dont use LED headlight bulbs you will be good"

 

I had planned to use those, so I'm interested to know what issues are created by using LED headlights. I know that Phillips makes 3400 Kelvin (standard headlight color index). Again, I mention a brand name as those I'm aware of and for items this important, I refuse to use no-name one. A big hazard is created using them. For headlights, 5000 Kelvin emit too much UV. I think most members have experience passing cars with such headlights. I want to avoid this if at all possible and it can be difficult to avoid when using HID's.

 

What issues are created using LED headlights. Any information about this would be very helpful.

 

Thanks in advance.

[Nick Halstead]

Nick said "As long as you dont use LED headlight bulbs you will be good"

 

I had planned to use those, so I'm interested to know what issues are created by using LED headlights. I know that Phillips makes 3400 Kelvin (standard headlight color index). Again, I mention a brand name as those I'm aware of and for items this important, I refuse to use no-name one. A big hazard is created using them. For headlights, 5000 Kelvin emit too much UV. I think most members have experience passing cars with such headlights. I want to avoid this if at all possible and it can be difficult to avoid when using HID's.

 

What issues are created using LED headlights. Any information about this would be very helpful.

 

Thanks in advance.

various posts on this forum about this, quick rundown though. headlight projectors come in 3 kinds. Halogen, HID, and LED. To get the best usable light, you have to use the bulb it was designed for. a plug in play led bulb for a headlight has basically zero hot spot (hot spot is what throws light down the road) so it literally creates tons of foreground lighting (which is what fog lights are for) which makes your eyes focus on light directly in front of you instead of down the road. Also blinding the hell out of oncoming traffic because the cutoff shield inside the projector was not designed around the bulb. Also...although lots of manufacturer's are using LED headlights. ZERO of them use a LED bulb. which should be a given for people to understand that LED headlight bulbs are useless

[IWRBB]

Get Forscan and turn off hyperflash in the body control module.