empennage Posted March 8, 2013 Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 I have a 2010 Ford Edge. This is the second time its had a dead battery. The first battery was just 2 years old and I replaced it when it died in the garage. This new battery only lasted 6 months. It appears that everything is "clean bright and tight". When I jump the car it runs fine and then starts fine. The car runs every day, it does not sit. What else could it be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirdgenlxi Posted March 8, 2013 Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 Well there could be a current draw on the system, causing it to drain the battery..... only way to test that is to do a parasitic draw test and make sure the draw is less than 50mA. I've had all kinds of weird stuff cause draws.... radios, instrument clusters, modules, etc. If there is no draw you may just have a bad battery again.... I know it sounds weird but we've run into that multiple times where you just get a couple dud batteries. Same thing happened in my dads old Accord too Is it going dead consistently every time?? Any accessories or add on's plugged into the car... chargers, GPS, stereo stuff, lights, etc?? I'm guessing it's just a battery.... they can do some weeeiiiird stuff, believe me, lol. Do you do a lot of short trips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
empennage Posted March 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 I was thinking it must be something either putting a draw on the battery or a loose connection somewhere. The car ran great yesterday, parked it in the garage overnight and today it has a low battery. I just tighted up and cleaned the battery connections and have the battery on charge, it initially took a 4 amp draw and then quickly went to 2 amps. I've had several problems with the car including: Front wheel bearing went bad at 17,000 miles, back up sensor failed, drivers seat became loose, battery died. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
empennage Posted March 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 Sorry also forgot, this battery was fine for the past 6 months..no problems at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
androck238 Posted November 19, 2013 Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 I don't mean to hijack this thread, but I just woke up the other morning and tried to start my Edge and it was flat dead. Jumped it and it started just fine. I came home last night and started my parasitic draw test. I was hovering around 750 mA current draw with the vehicle off and keys out of ignition. Started pulling fuses and when I finally got to Fuse #5, it dropped to 30 mA. Fuse #5 is listed as: Keypad illumination, 2nd row seat, brake shift interlock I looked at the following wiring diagram: http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=177393, but still can't figure out what could be drawing that much current. The only thing I can think of is an after market security system I had installed. When the car is remote started, if I don't put the key in the ignition and press the brake the car shuts off, so somehow the system must be tied into the brake shit interlock system? Anybody got any better suggestions of things to check? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted November 19, 2013 Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 More likely they tapped into that circuit for the alarm controller and the controller is drawing the current. See if you can disconnect the controller without removing the fuse. The brake sensor would just be a monitor anyway - it wouldn't be drawing current. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirdgenlxi Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 You guys are letting it sit undisturbed for a good 45 minutes to allow all the modules to "go to sleep" before condemning anything as causing a draw, right?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFord Posted October 21, 2016 Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 I've have 2010 Ford Edge ,same problem since new ,about every 6 months ..sometimes 8 months ..just dead ...clicking ...nothing left on ..I've read a lot on this topic , 3rd battery ..this battery is almost a year old ,it's a 36 month ford battery ...jump it and its fine ...test fine ,Alt test fine..thinking it's the CD player stuck trying to eject once in awhile ,or we had a phone charger plugged in , I'm thinking maybe computer can not go into to sleep mode ....sometimes ...charger has been plugged in for months ,left plugged in ,not charging anything but charger does have small Led built in ..I know the led won't drain it ,but might cause the computer not to sleep..I have no remote start or par roof ...no after market anything ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IWRBB Posted October 21, 2016 Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 (edited) Did you check the lights in the vanity mirrors in the sunvisors? I've seen those stay on- my F150 will do it if the visor is flipped all the way forward towards the glass and the door for the mirror hangs open just enough for the light to come on. Oddly enough, our 2010 Edge drained it's battery about a week ago. Not sure what caused it either. Charged it back up and all is good so far. Will keep an eye on it though. Edited October 21, 2016 by IWRBB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFord Posted October 21, 2016 Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 Did you check the lights in the vanity mirrors in the sunvisors? I've seen those stay on- my F150 will do it if the visor is flipped all the way forward towards the glass and the door for the mirror hangs open just enough for the light to come on. Oddly enough, our 2010 Edge drained it's battery about a week ago. Not sure what caused it either. Charged it back up and all is good so far. Will keep an eye on it though. No I will check ..did you have anything plugged into the cigarette lighter ? Even if nothing was on it? Or has CD player been acting weird ,or not ejecting? Think we ruled out outside temperatures ,or bad battery as this is and has happened in warm climates and happened again yesterday to me 75 degrees outside ...I did have the phone charger plugged in ,but nothing on it ..I will check mirror ! Tks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IWRBB Posted October 21, 2016 Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 Nothing is plugged in, stereo is fine. We were planning to drive it and just about fired it up the day before, but then took another vehicle- so maybe we left a door open or something? I thought the lights automatically cutoff after a certain period of time though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted October 21, 2016 Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 pull the fuse on the radio/cd/head unit and see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFord Posted October 24, 2016 Report Share Posted October 24, 2016 Only happens once ..every 6-8 months ...dead battery ,jump it it's fine.....interior lights fine ...just drops enough not to start ..wonder if the alt can't keep up with all the gadgets.no problems for a week now ...or the vanity mirror ,or the cd ....sigh... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFord Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 (edited) Ok 1 week later battery dead again 36 month Ford battery under 2 years old ...cd changer shuffling ,running no key in ignition radio not even on Edited October 26, 2016 by MrFord Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 If the CD changer keeps shuffling/skipping on its' own, you will need to fix that issue before the battery issue goes away. Usually means installation of a new/different head unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFord Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 (edited) I did a parasitic draw test , showed I was pulling 2.34 amps nothing on ! Went right to the Radio fuse ,Thankyou for suggestion! Tested Parisitic draw again dropped to 0.94 ! Didn't sound like it was stuck shuffling this time ..put radio fuse back in ,radio off,no shuffling sounds ,parasitic back up back to 2.34amps disconnected,again back to 0.78 is 0.78-0.94 normal or should I keep looking thanks for the radio tip! I let meter stand 1 minute dropped from .078 to 0.20 ! Edited October 26, 2016 by MrFord Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 Well ... A faulty BCM module comes to mind as a possibility also. 1 amp draw is still too high. Did you wait at least 1/2 hr or more after turning everything off to test? It takes modules some time to go to sleep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFord Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 (edited) Waited 1 min after test and meter dropped to 0.20amp I will take your suggestion on the faulty BCM module and I'll leave parisitic draw on for 1/2 hour ...I have disconnected the raido and all is working ! wouldn't the BCM affect a lot of other stuff? Not just a radio,draw? Thankyou for your help! Edited October 27, 2016 by MrFord Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 Test 1/2 hr after everything is turned off and all plugin electronics are disconnected. If the parasitic draw is still 1 AMP and you don't see any obvious issues like the CD clicking or weird things with the electronics (no aftermarket stuff, right?), the BCM would be a prime culprit. 0.2 AMP is not an issue. And yes, the BCM affects a lot of different parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFord Posted October 28, 2016 Report Share Posted October 28, 2016 Ok will check ,thanks again! Any suggestions on a good new plug and play radio head unit for the 2010 Ford Edge ? Just have the stock radio and 6 disc changer now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted October 28, 2016 Report Share Posted October 28, 2016 I don't keep up much with the electronics scene, as it is a dazzling array of wonders But Pioneer has always offered good head units, so I would look through their offerings at crutchfield.com (a bit expensive, but they provide great advice and free install kits) to see what you want to get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IWRBB Posted October 28, 2016 Report Share Posted October 28, 2016 You have Sync? Nothing is 100% plug and play if you want to keep your steering wheel control and voice control stuff. You need additional hardware for that. The idatalink Maestro will allow you to keep your Sync functions and steering wheel controls with the aftermarket head unit. http://maestro.idatalink.com/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmcrae Posted July 28, 2019 Report Share Posted July 28, 2019 On 11/19/2013 at 12:39 PM, androck238 said: I don't mean to hijack this thread, but I just woke up the other morning and tried to start my Edge and it was flat dead. Jumped it and it started just fine. I came home last night and started my parasitic draw test. I was hovering around 750 mA current draw with the vehicle off and keys out of ignition. Started pulling fuses and when I finally got to Fuse #5, it dropped to 30 mA. Fuse #5 is listed as: Keypad illumination, 2nd row seat, brake shift interlock I looked at the following wiring diagram: http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=177393, but still can't figure out what could be drawing that much current. The only thing I can think of is an after market security system I had installed. When the car is remote started, if I don't put the key in the ignition and press the brake the car shuts off, so somehow the system must be tied into the brake shit interlock system? Anybody got any better suggestions of things to check? Thanks. Wow I have the same issue down to the 750mA draw and pulling Fuse #5 dropping it to about 30mA. Did you ever figure out what was causing your issue? Is 30mA the correct draw for sleep mode? No aftermarket things on this vehicle though, so I'm guessing it wasn't your security system since the numbers seem to match exactly. Keypad illumination means the LED light behind the keyless entry pad on the door? 2nd row seat means those 2 buttons that release the seats to fold down? Brake shift interlock is in the column shifter or around the brake pedal? The idea is to unplug these modules with Fuse #5 plugged in and see which of them causes the drop to 30mA? Any ideas for how to do this? Seems to require getting under a lot of trim panels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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