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What is the best HID kit for the Edge?


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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Been on a different vendor than either since I have been here. My first gen's HIDs were 6k/35w. Ultimately, I had to get the Canbus ballasts for my high beams (stock ballasts kept going south) and then moved those over to my 2011 since it came with DRLs. Now, I am running 5k/35w but, after driving in some of the darker parts of AZ, I am looking at changing things up again. Next up: D2S FX-R projector and Morimoto 5000k/35w.

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is it possible to just get a halogen light bulb change.

like just change the yellow halogen bulb to a white halogen bulb.
like phillips offers some. But they are not 9012 bulb.

if i buy a 9006 white halogen bulbs. Will they fit and work on my 2011 ford edge limited. ?
https://www.sylvania.com/en-us/products/automotive/Pages/silverstar-zxe.aspx

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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Hey all, I'm really considering getting a kit from TRS. Money's not really an issue and I like what everyone has said about the kit. I just want the most durable set I can get. Looking at the site, they have the 9012 bulb kit...I'm guessing back in February that was not the case which is why the 9006 was recommended? Anything wrong with getting the 9012?

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  • 2 weeks later...

2011 Ford Edge 4WD SEL

Hi

I have just fitted some DDM HIDs and wiring harness and Im really pleased with the results.

Thanks to all the many posts on here and the YouTube video by Dan Smith it was a relatively easy job.

I thought I add some tips to help anyone else who is considering this easy job:

1. I went for 35w 4500k These still have a slight blue hue to them and the light is so much better for driving.

2. I ordered from the DDM website the above bulbs, ballasts, wiring harness (dual in dual out), 9006 bulbs, the mounting brackets are a waste of time and you dont need the error eliminator or the adaptor cables. If in doubt call them first.

3. Before you kit arrives get familiar with the OEM bulbs 9012/HIR2 Getting them in and out was quite difficult. You will definitely need an inspection mirror. $3.50 from ebay or squeeze a shaving mirror in there. Use a torch and see how the tabs lock into place. I ended up filing some of the tabs to make them fit easier. Be careful as they file down very easily, go slow and a bit at a time.

4. Many have not used a wiring harness, but its very easy to fit and may preserve your cars harness one day! To fit: start at the battery terminals, the one with the inline fuse is the + Feed the cable around to each light. Follow the cars OEM wiring path and at the end of job, cable tie into place.

5. Mount the ballasts to the side of the headlight housing. There are two pips in the center of the space which makes it a pain, so you need to bridge these. I used some extreme sticky backed Velcro from Home Depot.

Cut two strips and stick in place above and below the pips on the housing, this appeared to bridge the pips ok. I managed to use so plumbers strapping tape over one ballast just as a safety precaution but couldnt get the lower screw in on the other side, so left it. I'll keep an eye on it. The cables wont let it go too far.

6. Connecting the wiring plugs is almost fool proof, just look out for the locking tabs so they mate properly on the larger connectors to ensure correct polarity. Take your time. Lay out the whole thing on the garage floor - harness and bulbs before you start if in doubt to see how it all connects.

7. Drill the back covers as per the video and fit the grommet in place. The 9006 bulbs fitted quite easily with no filing required. I was concerned about this after all the reading I'd done. I used the middle size rubber gasket supplied. You need to get the long return wire which is the white strip that runs along against the bulb glass at the bottom of the headlight housing when fitted.

Strangely I managed this on one side but it ended up being about 90 degs off on the other side? The light pattern still looks ok. Take your time, use the mirror. I did it outside on a bright day and a torch with warm hands! Be sure all the tabs are in place.

8. Bulb alignment there is an adjustment for up and down only at the back of the housing. Its an allen key fitting. The manual says you cannot adjust the width (unless others know more) You can do all the measuring etc, but what matters is how it looks on the road, so I just did this:

My OEMs were off anyway, so I needed to adjust them.

Firstly I made sure both lights were the same level by shining on a garage door at night. Then a couple of trips around the block told me they both needed to come down a touch and that was it. You can then follow someone you know in the dark and see if they blind their mirrors. Also do a passing in opposite directions to check if the lights are blinding.

 

 

For less than 70 bucks incl capacitors the improvement is amazing!

If anyone has any questions you can reach me at badgb21 at Hotmail dot com

Im no mechanic but Id be pleased to help if I can!

 

Edit - One of my lights didn't fire up if starting from auto position on the light switch. I can solve it by turning the switch to off, then switch them on again.

I fitted some capacitors from http://www.hidextra.com/capacitor/ very good service and seems to have solved problem. DDM were disappointing on the follow up with this problem. I would go to hid extra for all components if starting again today.

 

 

Kev

Edited by badgb21
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  • 1 month later...

I've used DDM Tuning 55w HID's on all my vehicles and bikes for years now without any problems... Actually I had one ballast stop working though they replaced it free of charge. Their warrantee is great and they've always taken care of me with any questions, concerns etc... They only down fall I'd say to them is there shipping is slow. If you can wait out the 10 day or so shipping time, you'll love them.. Don't let their cheaper than their competitor prices differ you.

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