Joey183 Posted February 9, 2013 Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 Now before everybody goes on saying its because I warped my rotors by not tightening the lugs in the correct patten, just know that I know what I'm doing. The problem started after the car sat in the garage for about a year, there must have been some snow on the rims when I parked it. Anyways once I drove it out the next year and tried to stop it seems like where the caliper was didn't rust, but the rest did, and it's been over a year and it hasn't wore off. This caused the pulsation and uneven braking. Should I try and get the rotors turned? Or would I be better off by just putting new ones on? The front ones are the only a problem, the back are fine for whatever reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 9, 2013 Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 May want to check if the caliper is compromised in any way, a la the dust boots or stuck slider pins. Also the brake fluid may need flushing/changing out after the vehicle sitting that long. Probably cost the same to turn rotors as to get new ones, but definitely check the calipers and brake fluid first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c_bova Posted February 9, 2013 Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 (edited) I'd get new rotors or get them on a lathe. Edited February 9, 2013 by c_bova Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey183 Posted February 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 The brake fluid and calipers are fine, I can tell the problem just by looking at them, the calipers are unevenly wearing it seems, the rust just never seemed to wear off like I hoped it would, I think I will try to turn them, but ultimately I think I'm just going to get new rotors, less hassle for the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aj Franchitti Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 the calipers may need realigned. if one side of the caliper touches the rotor first then that can cause issues like pulsating Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ls973800 Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 If the car sat for a year with moisture on the rotors, I would go back to the basics. I would do a complete tear down of the brake system. You may get away with turning the rotors depending if they are warped or just pitted/rusty from sitting. I would imagine that driving for a year now and they still pulsate you will need to at least turn them because of warping. I would also remove the calipers and clean/inspect/lube the slide pins. They may have dried up and rusted also after sitting for a year. They may not have freed up or cleaned up with you driving for a year after it sat. The brake pads may also be glazed. I would think that driving for a year you would have removed the glaze, but who knows. I would also make sure to follow the torque and torque patten whenever you tighten the lug nuts. It is very important you don't over or under tighten the lugs and cause further damage. Torque specs are given for almost any bolt on any vehicle. Make sure you also torque the caliper mounting bolts and any other bolt you loosen in the brake system. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmbubell Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 I was having a similar issue with my 2011 Sport pulsating when braking After i first felt the pulse it took me 2 weeks to get to the dealer and have it checked out Here is what they found Measure rotor run out - Front has .006-.008 Runout Machine front brake rotors Measurement before was 28.15 MM - RT Side - After 27.70 mm Measurement before was 28.05 MM - LF Side - After 27.75 mm Rear brakes are good I have the FMPP maintenance plan so all was covered for free, it was also a good time to get the 22" all-seasons back on the Edge and put the 17" winters into storage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc300c Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 If there will be enough rotor thickness after turning, I wold just have them turned to remove the rust, pits and warp. The rotors will warp again sooner than if they were new, but no sense in wasting still good rotors, in my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrHappy Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 It's likely buildup that just needs burned off. Warping of rotors is something that virtually never happens but rather uneven buildup of break pad material over time, especially if it sits for a while and moreso if it sits when wet. http://zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm Here's a good description of how to bed your breaks to clear that off. Just be safe and smart, do it where there is no traffic and in good weather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted March 20, 2013 Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 It's likely buildup that just needs burned off. Warping of rotors is something that virtually never happens but rather uneven buildup of brake pad material over time, especially if it sits for a while and moreso if it sits when wet. http://zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm Here's a good description of how to bed your brakes to clear that off. Just be safe and smart, do it where there is no traffic and in good weather. FTFY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackdaniel Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 For what it's worth. I had vibration when using the brakes.I could not feel it through the steering wheel,though. It was 'seat of the pants'. I took it to the local Ford dealer yesterday,they turned the rotors,on the car,a machine I have never seen before. It made a huge difference,took them about 1.25 hrs. No charge..thank you ESP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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