2008 Limited audio questions

[Kitulu]

As I understand it, I have 9 speakers in my Edge: 2 in each door, and a sub behind the right-hand cargo area panel.

 

I also have the in-dash navigation/Sync system, which is the audiophile system, I think?

 

Here are my questions:

 

Can I replace the speakers and sub without replacing the stock head unit and get better sound?

 

Is the factory amp running all the speakers, or just the sub, and would the amp have to be bypassed/replaced?

 

If the door speakers are running off the head unit with no amp, what wattage does the head unit put out?

 

Are the factory speakers/subwoofer 2 ohm or 4 ohm, and can the aftermarked speakers be either?

 

Where is the factory amp located, what are it's specs, and can it be upgraded/replaced?

 

The last time I replaced my stereo, it was in my Intrepid with the Infinity system, but I replaced the head unit, bypassed and removed the factory amp, installed a 5 channel amp, component speakers in the front with crossovers, 2 way speakers in the rear, and a 10 inch sub in a box in the trunk. In my Edge, replacing the factory unit is really not an option as both my wife and I like the head unit and the features it has.

[carbonedge+]

I can only answer your first question with confidence with a 'yes' as my '07 had the same speaker setup you have. I just replaced all door speakers with the JBL GTO 6x8s that were recently recommend by someone on this forum ($51/pair). I do not have the nav unit but I'm sure the overall head unit guts are the same.

 

The sound is much more balanced with crisper highs, fuller midrange, and tighter, punchy-er mid bass. I was pleasantly surprised. They dropped right in the factory openings and I used the adapters that allow you to keep the ford plugs.

 

I also do know the sub has its own amp mounted near its box. I have no clue as to wattage of the head unit or sub amp, but its plenty for my replacements which are actually louder as well as cleaner than the originals.

 

Hope that helps!

[Symbasys]

I have been contemplating a speaker upgrade in my 2010 Edge as well. Someone on eBay is selling Kicker KS680 speaker upgrade packages for the Edge. I'm wondering how much better the sound quality would be with these as compared with the stock speakers. I have the factory head unit with Sirius, Sync, navigation and the 10 gig hard drive. Mine also says it has 9 speakers, but I'm not sure where all of them are.

[carbonedge+]

There are 2 in each door plus the sub in the back. Each door houses what appears to be about a 4-4.5 inch midbass and a separate tweeter (that's 8 of your 9). My guess is the Kickers will sound better just as the JBLs do to me. The JBLs have a pivoting tweeter that allows some adjustment to the direction of the highs, but with the design of the door panel and how it protrudes out near the speaker grill opening, a component setup with tweeters you can mount elsewhere would achieve the best sound. It was definitely worth it to me to make the swap. It's not high fidelity, but for $125 it's a definite improvement over the the dated OEMs.

[Kitulu]

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="carbonedge+" data-cid="90563" data-time="1358421153"><p>

There are 2 in each door plus the sub in the back. Each door houses what appears to be about a 4-4.5 inch midbass and a separate tweeter (that's 8 of your 9). My guess is the Kickers will sound better just as the JBLs do to me. The JBLs have a pivoting tweeter that allows some adjustment to the direction of the highs, but with the design of the door panel and how it protrudes out near the speaker grill opening, a component setup with tweeters you can mount elsewhere would achieve the best sound. It was definitely worth it to me to make the swap. It's not high fidelity, but for $125 it's a definite improvement over the the dated OEMs. </p></blockquote>

 

So, the door speakers are component speakers, and not something like two two way 6x8", 8 in the doors total?

[carbonedge+]

I'll post a pic of The OEMs shortly and that should clear up any confusion.

[carbonedge+]

It's more of a sealed plate speaker with a 4" mid and 1" tweeter; 4 ohms and rated at 25 watts

[Kitulu]

Thanks! Looks like it is not a component system per se, and it would be less work to mount a 2 or 3 way speaker

[Ironpeddler]

I just replaced the speakers in our 2008 SEL that has the Nav/SYNC head unit. The speakers I replaced are the same as pictured above in carbonedge+'s post. I went with Polk DXi570 in all 4 doors and it was a great improvement over the OEM speakers, they mounted right in the same spot as the original speakers with the only issue being I had to elongate one hole with a round file on each speaker. More mid range, mid bass, and the highs are now coming through. All I need now is a sub with more punch.

 

My question is, has anyone replaced the OEM subwoofer with a Polk db840DVC? This is a dual voice coil (as I'm led to believe the original one is) and is an 8" speaker as well. I'm trying to find out if anyone did this replacement WITHOUT installing an additional amp and running it off of the standard head unit's amp.

 

From what I've read, they say that this system is 190 watts...I figure it's 25 watts to each door speaker and 90 watts to the sub...guessing. That said, this must be peak wattage numbers and if you cut those numbers in half, that would leave 45 watts to the sub...and the Polk sub has a minimum power handling of 50 watts...25 to each voice coil. Being that the head unit comes up a bit short in power, is it still safe to use that sub without hurting the head unit's power amp?

 

 

[Kitulu]

I just replaced the speakers in our 2008 SEL that has the Nav/SYNC head unit. The speakers I replaced are the same as pictured above in carbonedge+'s post. I went with Polk DXi570 in all 4 doors and it was a great improvement over the OEM speakers, they mounted right in the same spot as the original speakers with the only issue being I had to elongate one hole with a round file on each speaker. More mid range, mid bass, and the highs are now coming through. All I need now is a sub with more punch.

 

My question is, has anyone replaced the OEM subwoofer with a Polk db840DVC? This is a dual voice coil (as I'm led to believe the original one is) and is an 8" speaker as well. I'm trying to find out if anyone did this replacement WITHOUT installing an additional amp and running it off of the standard head unit's amp.

 

From what I've read, they say that this system is 190 watts...I figure it's 25 watts to each door speaker and 90 watts to the sub...guessing. That said, this must be peak wattage numbers and if you cut those numbers in half, that would leave 45 watts to the sub...and the Polk sub has a minimum power handling of 50 watts...25 to each voice coil. Being that the head unit comes up a bit short in power, is it still safe to use that sub without hurting the head unit's power amp?

Why not go with the db840? Single voice coil, which should require less power, I think.

[Ironpeddler]

Why not go with the db840? Single voice coil, which should require less power, I think.

I THINK the power is distributed equally across each connection...25 watts each...and the factory sub IS a dual voice coil. I figured it was the path of least resistance if I duplicated this setup, I think. :hysterical2:

[Kitulu]

I THINK the power is distributed equally across each connection...25 watts each...and the factory sub IS a dual voice coil. I figured it was the path of least resistance if I duplicated this setup, I think. :hysterical2:

I had no idea that the factory sub was dual VC.

 

For door speakers, I am looking at the db571..on sale buy one get one half off.

 

I can run a separate amplifier for the sub...I have done it before, but I don't want to.

Edited January 22, 2013 by Kitulu

[Ironpeddler]

I had no idea that the factory sub was dual VC.

 

For door speakers, I am looking at the db571..on sale buy one get one half off.

 

I can run a separate amplifier for the sub...I have done it before, but I don't want

 

They are similar speakers the 570 and 571 and the same price when you figure the BOGO 1/2 price at $150...I guess you are looking at Crutchfield as well. I went with the 570 as the tweeter is more recessed and I had less chance of it touching the door panel.

 

I don't want to add an additional amp either. It's a PITA to run the power wires to the battery! LOL. But if that is what I have to do, then I will...once the weather warms up that is! That Kicker amp they suggest has a power switch that can be activated by the speaker signal so you don't have to wire the power switch wire back to the head unit...so that's a plus, although I think that is an addition accessory part. The worst part is, adding an amp that is using the speaker wires as the signal source instead of the RCA plugs coming from the signal processor of the amp...not sure how clean of a signal that would be.

 

That's why I was asking if anyone did a direct replacement using the factory amp and the 8" Polk sub.

[Kitulu]

They are similar speakers the 570 and 571 and the same price when you figure the BOGO 1/2 price at $150...I guess you are looking at Crutchfield as well. I went with the 570 as the tweeter is more recessed and I had less chance of it touching the door panel.

 

I don't want to add an additional amp either. It's a PITA to run the power wires to the battery! LOL. But if that is what I have to do, then I will...once the weather warms up that is! That Kicker amp they suggest has a power switch that can be activated by the speaker signal so you don't have to wire the power switch wire back to the head unit...so that's a plus, although I think that is an addition accessory part. The worst part is, adding an amp that is using the speaker wires as the signal source instead of the RCA plugs coming from the signal processor of the amp...not sure how clean of a signal that would be.

 

That's why I was asking if anyone did a direct replacement using the factory amp and the 8" Polk sub.

Well, I went and pulled the trigger on the door speakers and the sub...told the wife it was my V-Day present from her, lol! I will let you know once I install it.

[Ironpeddler]

Well, I went and pulled the trigger on the door speakers and the sub...told the wife it was my V-Day present from her, lol! I will let you know once I install it.

 

Well, I went and pulled the trigger on the door speakers and the sub...told the wife it was my V-Day present from her, lol! I will let you know once I install it.

 

Did you get the Polk 8" sub?...and are going to add an amp as well?

[Kitulu]

Did you get the Polk 8" sub?...and are going to add an amp as well?

I got the sub and door speakers. I am going to run them off the factory amp to begin with...see how it sounds. If I need to I can pick up a small amp to push the sub.

[Ironpeddler]

I got the sub and door speakers. I am going to run them off the factory amp to begin with...see how it sounds. If I need to I can pick up a small amp to push the sub.

 

Definitely keep me posted on your results...the 4 door speakers will sound great. Wait until you hear the mid bass in each one fill the car. Also keep in mind that it will take a few hours of playing to break them in.

 

Even though Crutchfield gives you the instructions for installation, try cruising through this guy's instructions, he leaves no stone unturned in removing each screw and identifying the tools needed. The Torx bit/driver is the only extra tool needed. Go over it so by the time the speakers come, it will be second nature. It took my son and I a little over an hour and a half to do all four speakers, just take your time when removing the plugs for the electrical switches...really easy though. Also check out his other 'How to' tutorials on the Edge...he covers a lot of basic maintenance that will come in handy.

 

Good luck!

[Kitulu]

Definitely keep me posted on your results...the 4 door speakers will sound great. Wait until you hear the mid bass in each one fill the car. Also keep in mind that it will take a few hours of playing to break them in.

 

Even though Crutchfield gives you the instructions for installation, try cruising through this guy's instructions, he leaves no stone unturned in removing each screw and identifying the tools needed. The Torx bit/driver is the only extra tool needed. Go over it so by the time the speakers come, it will be second nature. It took my son and I a little over an hour and a half to do all four speakers, just take your time when removing the plugs for the electrical switches...really easy though. Also check out his other 'How to' tutorials on the Edge...he covers a lot of basic maintenance that will come in handy.

 

Good luck!

Well, I finally got the speakers installed last night. Fie on you, Ford! Fie! Why did you use three different types of fasteners on the door panels!

 

Don't get me started on the removal of the trim in the trunk area for the sub...The best thing was that you don't have to remove it all the way, which is a good thing because I do not have a T50 torx bit in my bag of tools. Taking out the floor cover, rear kick panel, right cargo organizer, and pulling up the fasteners for the trim gave me sufficient space to replace the sub. BTW, the screws that come with the sub are long as hell, but they work fine. You have to use them, the stock screws will not work with the Polk sub.

 

Now, on to the sound quality...I powered up the stereo with some hip-hop (for the bass) prior to starting to get a basis for comparison, with the bass set to full on, and the treble set to two clicks to the right of center on the screen:

 

I installed the sub first, then powered it up to test with the stock speakers. Mind you, I do not have a audio or decibel meter, so all of my measurements are by the skin of my ear/hand. The Polk feels like it is pushing less air than the stock when I held my hand up to it with the volume at the same level. However, the bass sounds a lot tighter and less "boomy"...kinda like the difference between having a 10" and a 15". This is with the volume turned up to the first large tic on the screen. I turned the volume up to half, and there was no distortion from the sub.

 

I then installed the new door speakers. There was no clearance issue with the tweeters, and I left the plastic rings taped to the speakers for added security. The holes seemed a little off, but I got them lined up bu installing all 4 screws and then tightening each a little at a time. I taped the harness adapter to the inside of the door panel to keep it out of the way of the window. I had no issues with window clearance at all.

 

Kudos to Ford for having sound dampening already installed in the door panel! I also liked that each speaker, including the sub, had it's own enclosure.

 

After installing all the speakers, I can definitely notice a difference in the sound. The highs are crisper, and the mids seem more robust; in contrast, the stock speakers sounded flatter all across the spectrum.

 

My only complaint would be the lack of adjustment for the level of the sub, and a more robust EQ adjustment in the stock head unit in place of just bass and treble...but that could only be achieved with a separate EQ or amp for the sub, or a new head unit, and it is a small complaint.

 

The stock amp will definitely push a replacement sub fairly well, so long as you are looking for a bass enhancement integrated into the overall sound. If you want to rattle the windows and have the whole neighborhood hear you beatin' up the street, you need a bigger amp.

[Ironpeddler]

Well, I finally got the speakers installed last night. Fie on you, Ford! Fie! Why did you use three different types of fasteners on the door panels!

 

Don't get me started on the removal of the trim in the trunk area for the sub...The best thing was that you don't have to remove it all the way, which is a good thing because I do not have a T50 torx bit in my bag of tools. Taking out the floor cover, rear kick panel, right cargo organizer, and pulling up the fasteners for the trim gave me sufficient space to replace the sub. BTW, the screws that come with the sub are long as hell, but they work fine. You have to use them, the stock screws will not work with the Polk sub.

 

Now, on to the sound quality...I powered up the stereo with some hip-hop (for the bass) prior to starting to get a basis for comparison, with the bass set to full on, and the treble set to two clicks to the right of center on the screen:

 

I installed the sub first, then powered it up to test with the stock speakers. Mind you, I do not have a audio or decibel meter, so all of my measurements are by the skin of my ear/hand. The Polk feels like it is pushing less air than the stock when I held my hand up to it with the volume at the same level. However, the bass sounds a lot tighter and less "boomy"...kinda like the difference between having a 10" and a 15". This is with the volume turned up to the first large tic on the screen. I turned the volume up to half, and there was no distortion from the sub.

 

I then installed the new door speakers. There was no clearance issue with the tweeters, and I left the plastic rings taped to the speakers for added security. The holes seemed a little off, but I got them lined up bu installing all 4 screws and then tightening each a little at a time. I taped the harness adapter to the inside of the door panel to keep it out of the way of the window. I had no issues with window clearance at all.

 

Kudos to Ford for having sound dampening already installed in the door panel! I also liked that each speaker, including the sub, had it's own enclosure.

 

After installing all the speakers, I can definitely notice a difference in the sound. The highs are crisper, and the mids seem more robust; in contrast, the stock speakers sounded flatter all across the spectrum.

 

My only complaint would be the lack of adjustment for the level of the sub, and a more robust EQ adjustment in the stock head unit in place of just bass and treble...but that could only be achieved with a separate EQ or amp for the sub, or a new head unit, and it is a small complaint.

 

The stock amp will definitely push a replacement sub fairly well, so long as you are looking for a bass enhancement integrated into the overall sound. If you want to rattle the windows and have the whole neighborhood hear you beatin' up the street, you need a bigger amp.

AWESOME!

 

I'm glad everything worked out for you. I had the same issue with mounting the speakers but all I did was elongate one of the mounting holes a bit with a round file...other than that, I did the exact same thing you did...and I wrapped the speaker plug with electrical tape.

 

I took those trim rings off, in fact I put in the rear passenger side speaker first and didn't noticed that the trim ring was only taped on until I did speaker #2 on the rear drivers side door. The reason being I didn't want them to rattle when the tape dried out and I didn't see how they provided any benefit to the install...so I went back and opened up the first door panel again and took it off along with the rest of the speakers.

 

So, was the sub speaker a dual voice coil like everyone said? I just was reading this morning in another thread here that the OEM sub speaker was a 9" speaker!...is that true? How did it mount into the enclosure?..any gaps along the perimeter at all? Also, did you get the sub from Crutchfield? The reason I ask is I wanted to know if they enclosed the directions to remove that rear panel in the correct manner. I found a local deal on the Polk DVC sub speaker for $60.00...but I can't find the directions to remove that panel anywhere on the Internet. I'm glad to hear that the sub provided an upgrade in sound, what you described is exactly what I'm looking for, a tighter bass sound.

 

When you installed the door speakers, did you notice how much mid-bass they produced? In the beginning I liked it, but now I want to reduce the amount of bass in the front doors only to let a little more of the mid and highs out of them. I'm looking into adding a Bass blocker to the front two speakers only to accomplish this...a cheap fix to see if it helps. I just have to figure out just where I want the cutoff to be...150 or 300Hz.

 

Sounds like you did a great job and that you are really enjoying the results. Now I can move onto installing that sub speaker too...thanks for the info and being the guinea pig on this experiment! LOL

[Kitulu]

AWESOME!

 

I'm glad everything worked out for you. I had the same issue with mounting the speakers but all I did was elongate one of the mounting holes a bit with a round file...other than that, I did the exact same thing you did...and I wrapped the speaker plug with electrical tape.

 

I took those trim rings off, in fact I put in the rear passenger side speaker first and didn't noticed that the trim ring was only taped on until I did speaker #2 on the rear drivers side door. The reason being I didn't want them to rattle when the tape dried out and I didn't see how they provided any benefit to the install...so I went back and opened up the first door panel again and took it off along with the rest of the speakers.

 

So, was the sub speaker a dual voice coil like everyone said? I just was reading this morning in another thread here that the OEM sub speaker was a 9" speaker!...is that true? How did it mount into the enclosure?..any gaps along the perimeter at all? Also, did you get the sub from Crutchfield? The reason I ask is I wanted to know if they enclosed the directions to remove that rear panel in the correct manner. I found a local deal on the Polk DVC sub speaker for $60.00...but I can't find the directions to remove that panel anywhere on the Internet. I'm glad to hear that the sub provided an upgrade in sound, what you described is exactly what I'm looking for, a tighter bass sound.

 

When you installed the door speakers, did you notice how much mid-bass they produced? In the beginning I liked it, but now I want to reduce the amount of bass in the front doors only to let a little more of the mid and highs out of them. I'm looking into adding a Bass blocker to the front two speakers only to accomplish this...a cheap fix to see if it helps. I just have to figure out just where I want the cutoff to be...150 or 300Hz.

 

Sounds like you did a great job and that you are really enjoying the results. Now I can move onto installing that sub speaker too...thanks for the info and being the guinea pig on this experiment! LOL

The stock sub is dual voice coil and 8". It fit in the stock enclosure just fine, no clearance issues...you just have to put all eight screws in and tighten each one a little at a time to get them to line up correctly. I got all my speakers from Crutchfield.

 

The mid-bass in the doors is enough to vibrate the door panel, but it does not "intrude" into the overall sound too much for me. In my Intrepid I was running 6 1/2 components in the front, 6x9s in the rear, and a 10" sub in a ported box in the trunk, all running off of an Infinity 1000w 5 channel amp, so I am actually used to more bass in my ride. I am going to wait until the speakers break in before I decide if I want to try to upgrade the factory amp or add a second amp for the sub.

[Kitulu]

They are similar speakers the 570 and 571 and the same price when you figure the BOGO 1/2 price at $150...I guess you are looking at Crutchfield as well. I went with the 570 as the tweeter is more recessed and I had less chance of it touching the door panel.

 

I don't want to add an additional amp either. It's a PITA to run the power wires to the battery! LOL. But if that is what I have to do, then I will...once the weather warms up that is! That Kicker amp they suggest has a power switch that can be activated by the speaker signal so you don't have to wire the power switch wire back to the head unit...so that's a plus, although I think that is an addition accessory part. The worst part is, adding an amp that is using the speaker wires as the signal source instead of the RCA plugs coming from the signal processor of the amp...not sure how clean of a signal that would be.

 

That's why I was asking if anyone did a direct replacement using the factory amp and the 8" Polk sub.

Which amp were they recommending? Also, were you going to add the new amp in line with the factory amp, or bypass it (for the sub only)? Where is the factory amp, anyway?

Edited January 30, 2013 by Kitulu

[Ironpeddler]

Which amp were they recommending? Also, were you going to add the new amp in line with the factory amp, or bypass it (for the sub only)? Where is the factory amp, anyway?

 

Which amp were they recommending?....LINK

 

Were you going to add the new amp in line with the factory amp?...NO. You'll use the wires going into the stock amp and attach them to THIS and then run new wires from the amp to the sub.

 

Or bypass it (for the sub only)?...YES. disconnect it and remove it completely.

 

Where is the factory amp, anyway?...From what I've read, it's right next to the subwoofer enclosure towards the rear passenger door side....behind that panel you pried away...lol.

 

You'll run a power wire up to the battery, find a close ground screw, run new wires from the amp to the Polk sub, wire in that 2 channel speaker adapter from the wires going into the OEM amp, flick the auto turn on switch to audio, make your adjustments to the amp and you're done. I guess once you connect it to one side of the speaker adapter it switches automatically to mono mode...I'd ask Crutchfield about that. Most guys bolt it in behind the rear panel, the only problem with that is you can't fine tune it once you put the panel back in. Install the sub amp under the rear seat maybe?

[Kitulu]

Which amp were they recommending?....LINK

 

Were you going to add the new amp in line with the factory amp?...NO. You'll use the wires going into the stock amp and attach them to THIS and then run new wires from the amp to the sub.

 

Or bypass it (for the sub only)?...YES. disconnect it and remove it completely.

 

Where is the factory amp, anyway?...From what I've read, it's right next to the subwoofer enclosure towards the rear passenger door side....behind that panel you pried away...lol.

 

You'll run a power wire up to the battery, find a close ground screw, run new wires from the amp to the Polk sub, wire in that 2 channel speaker adapter from the wires going into the OEM amp, flick the auto turn on switch to audio, make your adjustments to the amp and you're done. I guess once you connect it to one side of the speaker adapter it switches automatically to mono mode...I'd ask Crutchfield about that. Most guys bolt it in behind the rear panel, the only problem with that is you can't fine tune it once you put the panel back in. Install the sub amp under the rear seat maybe?

In my Intrepid, I had the amp bolted to the back of the rear seat, the 40 side of the 60/40 folding seat back, along with the crossovers. However, I had never planned to lower that side of the seat as the sub box was also bolted to the floor of the trunk at the same side. I would like to avoid cluttering up my cargo area with stereo components, so a small-ish amp that would fit in the stock location, or otherwise fit behind the panel would work for me. I may look into it more next month or so.

 

ETA: Just had a thought...wouldn't the factory amp already have power and ground running to it, thus negating the requirement to run new power and ground wires?

Edited January 31, 2013 by Kitulu

[Ironpeddler]

Just had a thought...wouldn't the factory amp already have power and ground running to it, thus negating the requirement to run new power and ground wires?

 

I would think the gauge of that OEM wire is insufficient to handle the current needed to run that amp.