HyPer Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 (edited) Hello there, I figured I would post up some of our mods we've done to this brand new edge. It was bought new this year, it left the dealer lot and went straight to the shop to be torn apart to fix all flaws we could find.....including the incandescent bulbs For some reason, the camera only shows blue in the light when other lights are on, as the above pic is with all shop lights turned off. There's absolutely NO blue in the lights whatsoever, they're a tone of white we call "Metallic White", as it has no yellow like Natural White, and no blue like Cool White. The consistency issue was taken care of so you don't see the spotty look you get from running projector lens LEDs. Instead you end up with a smooth transition of light from one LED to the next. Edited December 21, 2012 by HyPer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edgieguy Posted December 22, 2012 Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 that's sharp. what led set did you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HyPer Posted December 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 that's sharp. what led set did you use? Can you be more specific? I'm not sure exactly what you're asking. We ran a staggered LED pattern with LEDs mounted on each side of the reflector, so they don't fire directly out, but instead fire against the opposite side of reflector between opposing LEDs. When they're turned off and you look closely, the LED pattern from top to bottom is: left, right, left, right, left, right, etc and so on. Aiming them away from the lens takes out the spotty effect like you see on alot of these DRL kits, where instead of a smooth even vertical light, you end up with little light "dots", aka "hot spots". That was our goal in using the staggered pattern. We used tri-chip LEDs, model 5050 chips. They were a pain to wire up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc300c Posted December 22, 2012 Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 It took a lot of time messing with the settings on my camera before I was able to get my lights to look true to life at night. With your description of the color, people can use their imagination. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HyPer Posted December 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 (edited) It took a lot of time messing with the settings on my camera before I was able to get my lights to look true to life at night. With your description of the color, people can use their imagination. Yeah, I'll do some tinkering with the camera and edit in the correct looking pics.....if I'm successful lol. Oddly enough, the nighttime pics with the lights off, are the correct color, like the first pic. It's with the shop lights on, that the color goes all whacky. Edited December 22, 2012 by HyPer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted December 22, 2012 Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 If you have fluorescent lighting in the workshop, and it is too close/strong, that can definitely mess with the camera's sensor. I get vertical blue "beam me up scotty" lines on my point & shoot :o Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edgieguy Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 Can you be more specific? I'm not sure exactly what you're asking. We ran a staggered LED pattern with LEDs mounted on each side of the reflector, so they don't fire directly out, but instead fire against the opposite side of reflector between opposing LEDs. When they're turned off and you look closely, the LED pattern from top to bottom is: left, right, left, right, left, right, etc and so on. Aiming them away from the lens takes out the spotty effect like you see on alot of these DRL kits, where instead of a smooth even vertical light, you end up with little light "dots", aka "hot spots". That was our goal in using the staggered pattern. We used tri-chip LEDs, model 5050 chips. They were a pain to wire up. I think you answered my question. I thought you added a pre-made light bar as others have. Care to share close ups? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HyPer Posted December 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2012 I can but we're working on a production model now with a different less expensive(translated: less work involved) retrofit, where we'll mount the leds to strips of PCB. This way we can use different on board controllers to make them dim and brighten. The ones shown above stay full brightness all the time, but wired differently, they could have 3 stages of brightness. A show-only edge will get color changing drls up front that can use white while on public roads, then switch to different colors when at shows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candurin Posted December 24, 2012 Report Share Posted December 24, 2012 Hyper, which LEDs did you go with (Cree, sst, etc)? Any ideas of the lumens? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HyPer Posted December 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2012 We used P.A. Electronics Inc's 5mm 3-circuit chips, each DRL housing now has a 5.75w power draw at 12v(4.8w at 14.4v) and outputs approximately 360 lumens(on paper). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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