Nic Williams Posted October 6, 2013 Report Share Posted October 6, 2013 I'm having the opposite issue. My HID's are fine, but the DRL's aren't working properly. I'd be interested to hear how everyone wired up their cars so they have HID's and DRL's on a sport. Mine is a 2013 with the autostart feature and California setup if that makes any difference. Someone said we have DRL's stock by law in California, but I've never seen that. Any advice from the wiring experts would help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Walker Posted December 21, 2013 Report Share Posted December 21, 2013 My passenger side HID will not start up in autolamp on. I have to manually flip off then on to get them to work. i have the Retro Solutions 55w 5000K. I think i will go back to stock, simple and easy. I also went to ford and got my DRL turned off, it cost $75 bucks but i go to drive-ins and dont like to have my lights on all the time. I also am in the Air Force and we are suppose to turn off headlights when we approach the gate at night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candurin Posted December 21, 2013 Report Share Posted December 21, 2013 Did you try capacitors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Walker Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 i actually have both ballast grounded to the negative battery terminal. not sure if that is the problem or not. Should the ballast each have their own ground? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12Edge Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 (edited) i actually have both ballast grounded to the negative battery terminal. not sure if that is the problem or not. Should the ballast each have their own ground? A good ground is all it takes. Either to the car body ground points or the battery they are equivalent for these purposes. If you trace the neg. battery terminal you will find multiple points it is directly connected to the car body. I am starting to wonder if the folks having firing problems wired directly in to the vehicle harness rather than running separate relay/wires for power etc? I know the morimoto set that is canbus ballast has no relay harness by default. My 35W 5000K lamps have never failed to ignite and I am running two relays directly connected to power with independent wires for each light to the power source. There are also capacitors in the harness but I question their necessity in hind site being connected to the ultimate capacitor... the battery. Edited December 23, 2013 by 12Edge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david30 Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 I have the canbus and just got replacement ballasts from TRS. My flicker is gone however the issue of both bulbs failing to fire with the auto setting remains. Am i to assume then that purchasing capacitors mentioned in several posts here will cure this problem? Also how are they wired in conjunction with the canbus and ballast? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12Edge Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 (edited) I wonder if you have a 35W or 55W system? I assume since you have the 55W Canbus you are connected to the factory wires for power? The capacitor goes between the ballast and the power supply (relay or factory car harness) Edited December 23, 2013 by 12Edge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david30 Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 I wonder if you have a 35W or 55W system? I assume since you have the 55W Canbus you are connected to the factory wires for power? The capacitor goes between the ballast and the power supply (relay or factory car harness) I have a 35w 4300k, love the light output hate the switching back and forth as i have a limited and the lights also work with the wiper functions also, have to watch because sometimes end up going down the road with only one on. Yes connected to factory wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12Edge Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 I would bet a zillion dollars that if you used a relay harness your problems would go away. The point of the capacitor is to provide extra juice for ignition. The ignition sequence requires a lot more amperage but once running the consumption is low. The capacitor may help with your 35W system just fine. If that doesn't do it I would add a relay harness and I bet you would be 100% fine after that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david30 Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 Sounds like the relay harness gets real involved in wiring it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrinzII Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 I'm having the opposite issue. My HID's are fine, but the DRL's aren't working properly. I'd be interested to hear how everyone wired up their cars so they have HID's and DRL's on a sport. Mine is a 2013 with the autostart feature and California setup if that makes any difference. Someone said we have DRL's stock by law in California, but I've never seen that. Any advice from the wiring experts would help! My Limited was a CA car and I had to wind up installing a capacitor and warning canceller on my HID kit for it to work. Also, I have been running CANBUS ballasts for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12Edge Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 (edited) Sounds like the relay harness gets real involved in wiring it. I made it involved on my install because I wanted everything tucked away clean neat and like factory. I was also routing aftermarket DRL/turn signal wires. To do it easily you can pin the relay to the sidewall or even the plastic body of the driver side light housing with a push pin and zip tie the wires to the existing harness to route them across the front and to the battery. The ground wires are REALLY easy because the vehicle harness has a ground bolt almost directly under the light housings on the body rail on either side that several ground wires attach to that you can also use. You cant miss it. Just follow about 6 black ground wires down to a point where they attach to washer(s) and are bolted to the front of the rail that runs from the front to the back of the car. The harness I got plugged in to the factory wires on the drive side for the headlight to trigger the relay (instead of power lights) and when the relay switches it funnels direct from battery power to the ballasts so you have enough amperage for ignition. In your case you would unplug the headlamp wire on the passenger side and leave it off, unplug from the drivers side and plug it in to the relay harness to switch the relay on/off and then use the relays wires to power both ballasts. Edited December 23, 2013 by 12Edge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Walker Posted December 27, 2013 Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 I've converted back to stock now. This issue with the auto headlights has bothered me for to long now. If there is anyone that would like a good deal on a Retro Solutions 55w 5000k kit w/ harness let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candurin Posted December 28, 2013 Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 (edited) It sucks about the issues your having. I've been using the identical kit for over a year and a half (HD relay harness) and my auto function has always worked. I am using the positive and negative terminals on my battery for power connections. Edited December 28, 2013 by candurin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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