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Machine Front Rotors


dolphinsc66

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Greetings ALL!

 

After 13 years, our 1999 Ford "Exploder" Limited (146,000 miles) needed too much work to keep (over $4000) so we traded it in for a 2010 Ford Edge Limited with about 18,000 miles from a dealership. We had our mechanic check it out prior to the purchase and it checked out great. It's just about loaded minus navigation and DVD, and after much research we felt the price was reasonable, albeit a deal too good to be true. Let's just say I'm a skeptic and trust nobody and always wondering where the catch is. I hope that this truly is a good deal. The Carfax checked out but I know that they can miss things especially when they aren't reported. Anyway, it's been about 2 weeks now and we noticed a slight vibration when braking so I took it to our local dealership. They told me the front rotors needed to be machined? The cost-$167. Anyone have any suggestions? Wouldn't it be best and more cost effective to simply replace the front rotors?

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so, if i follow it right, is it worth it to spend a lot of money on race rotor's and ceramic pads or use regular disc?? if i own a 2008 ford edge??

are they going to last longer??

 

Pascal

 

Don't buy rotors for performance - you won't get any noticeable benefit unless you're racing. Get regular rotors or slotted if you prefer the looks but it's strictly for looks. Pads can help a little but honestly it's more about less brake dust than absolute performance.

 

To get real braking upgrades you need bigger rotors AND calipers.

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Thanks for the feedback. Now for the funny part. The dealer also said I needed a new cabin filter. To replace that was going to be $75+. No thanks, I'll wait on that. Joke! As a married 46 y.o. woman with two young girls who has always preferred fixing things when I can, I quickly discovered after googling replacing cabin filter in 2010 Ford Edge, that I could do it myself. It cost me $13 and 10 minutes of my time. This is the reason I can't stand dealerships...the markup on their work and parts is insane. Exactly the reason I will take my "new" vehicle to my trusted mechanic unless it's a warranty issue.

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Thanks for the feedback. Now for the funny part. The dealer also said I needed a new cabin filter. To replace that was going to be $75+. No thanks, I'll wait on that. Joke! As a married 46 y.o. woman with two young girls who has always preferred fixing things when I can, I quickly discovered after googling replacing cabin filter in 2010 Ford Edge, that I could do it myself. It cost me $13 and 10 minutes of my time. This is the reason I can't stand dealerships...the markup on their work and parts is insane. Exactly the reason I will take my "new" vehicle to my trusted mechanic unless it's a warranty issue.

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I agree in most cases but when electronics and even some engine functions the dealer has the equipment (and resolution databases) to resolve issues. Most neighborhood repair shops do not have (or can afford) the diagnostic equipment. As an example if you have an engine management issue that requires a flash upgrade of your cars computer the repair shop may not have access to that information/flash or the equipment to install the flash. On my CTS I had an issue with the tilt steering that I would have thought was the tilt mechanism itself but it turned out to be the "memory module". Not sure if a neighborhood shop would have fixed it correctly. Cars are becoming complicated rolling computers that requires a mechanic to have skills in both mechanical and computer/electronic skills.

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Thanks for the feedback. Now for the funny part. The dealer also said I needed a new cabin filter. To replace that was going to be $75+. No thanks, I'll wait on that. Joke! As a married 46 y.o. woman with two young girls who has always preferred fixing things when I can, I quickly discovered after googling replacing cabin filter in 2010 Ford Edge, that I could do it myself. It cost me $13 and 10 minutes of my time. This is the reason I can't stand dealerships...the markup on their work and parts is insane. Exactly the reason I will take my "new" vehicle to my trusted mechanic unless it's a warranty issue.

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Rotors are warped by dumb nutbusters who have rotated the tires and tightened the lug nuts with an impact wrench. Torque the lug nuts to the proper specs and it's possible that the vibration will go away.

Cabin air filters can bge bought online for a fraction of the dealers price. They are easy to change. Takes about 2 minutes.

https://www.logical-source.com/2007-FORD-EDGE-8770.html

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Rotors are warped by dumb nutbusters who have rotated the tires and tightened the lug nuts with an impact wrench. Torque the lug nuts to the proper specs and it's possible that the vibration will go away.

Cabin air filters can bge bought online for a fraction of the dealers price. They are easy to change. Takes about 2 minutes.

https://www.logical-...-EDGE-8770.html

 

I was going to say the same thing. Recheck wheel nut TQ. Maybe too late, but might help.

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2010 on down Edges were hard on front brakes due to the smaller rear rotors and the smallish front rotors. 2011 forward have larger rear rotors and the brake bias is more towards the rear along with revised front calipers. That said normal/hard braking on pre-2011 Edges probably can warp the rotors so replace them with good quality NEW rotors.

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2010 on down Edges were hard on front brakes due to the smaller rear rotors and the smallish front rotors. 2011 forward have larger rear rotors and the brake bias is more towards the rear along with revised front calipers. That said normal/hard braking on pre-2011 Edges probably can warp the rotors so replace them with good quality NEW rotors.

 

Good quality rotors, for future reference would be?

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I have a 2007. I agree that a new set of rotors are a better choice than cutting the old rotors. However, the vibration could be caused by an uneven coating of brake pad material on the rotors. Try several moderatly hard stops and then drive with the foot off the brakes for a few miles to let the rotors cool down. This could cure the vibration issue.

 

As for the quality of the stopping power of early Edges. It turns out the brake booster went through several revisions. If you are not happey with the stopping power of your Edge consider replacing your booster with the latest from the dealer (about $100) plus a moderatly skilled install. Also, more agressive pads such as Bendex Police rated front pads will do wonders. But if it is only a vibration consern just file this info for sometime in the future. A good fluid flush is also a very good idea at this time.

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