complete custom stereo install 2008 Ford Edge Limited

[squish3825]

I have noticed that there are plenty of topics on speaker, headunit, or subwoofer upgrades. But not very many on complete system installs. So I figured that I would post about mine. I just purchased a 2008 Ford Edge Limited with a completely stock stereo. It has an indash 6 CD changer. It is not the MFT, but it does have the basic Snyc system and Sirius. All of the equipment that I am installing came out of my previous Ford. The Product list is as follows: Alpine IVA-W200 with iPod interface, PAC TR-7 video bypass relay, PAC SWI-JACK steering wheel control interface, Alpine KCA-SC100 Sirius adapter, Sirius SVCDOC1 Sirius connect plug and play vehicle dock, Sirius SV4 tuner, Pioneer reverse camera, Alpine ERA-G320 digital sound processor with display, Alpine Type-R 5x7 for all doors, Alpine PDX-5 Digital 5 channel amplifier, and an Alpine SWS-1223D Type-S 12 inch subwoofer. I am going to remove the factory 8 inch sub enclosure and make a custom box to house the 12 inch sub. The amp will also go behind the panel so that everything is hidden and factory looking.

 

I am not done with the install yet, I am currently in process. so far, I have installed the Alpine IVA-W200 in the dash with Metra dash kit, harness, and antenna adapter. I have installed the steering wheel interface, and the video bypass. With the Sirius install I decided to use the factory antenna already mounted on the roof. I found the Sirius control unit to be mounted on the back wall of the spare tire well. I purchased a 15 foot Sirius antenna extension from Amazon. I dismounted the control unit and unran the antenna wire some to start running it forward. The antenna wire made it to the back side of the left rear door opening. I ran the wire forward and mounted the interface in the glove box. That way I can easily remove the Sirius unit. I then removed the grip handle trim above the license plate. There is a removable panel where the factory reverse camera would mount. I made a mount that would angle the reverse camera to see behind the vehicle, but would also show the edge of the bumper. I ran the cable with the other wires through the rear hatch. I then dropped the back section of the headliner to access all of the rear hatch connectors. I unplugged the connectors and removed the entire harness and boot from the hinge area to run the camera wire through it. I continued to run the camera wire down the d-pillar.

 

 

 

That is a far as i have gotten at this point. I still have a lot of work to do, and even more wiring to run. I hope this topic will give some of you some inspiration to make a completely custom stereo in your own Edge. They are very easy vehicles to work on, and to take apart.

 

I will post more with further progress on the install, and hopefully get some pictures up soon.

Edited September 2, 2012 by squish3825

[RoadKingGibson]

I'm interested. Keep posting.

[squish3825]

Ok, I have been busy recently so sorry for the long period between posts. Since the last post, I have connected the box for the reverse camera to the reverse wire back in the drivers rear. That way it will only be on when you are in reverse, and I ran the signal wire forward to the head unit. I also connected a wire to the reverse wire in the drivers kick panel, and ran it to the head unit, so the head unit will know when the vehicle is in reverse and change the image accordingly. I made all of the connections, and tested the system. I then realized that I did not have the reverse camera tilted enough, so I had to adjust the camera mount a little more out.

 

 

 

 

Next I decided to install the Alpine 5x7 Type-R into the doors. You cannot run new speaker wire into the door through the wire boot, because the door wiring connector is part of the boot. I just used the factory wiring in the door, and will just run wires from the amp to the door jams. I removed the door panel and removed the factory speaker. I pulled the factory wiring from the hole as well. I put a stick foam strip around the rim of the speaker. That way it would seal better when installed. I also attached aftermarket wires to the speaker. That way when the speaker is installed, the wire can be ran through the factory notch, and still seal with the foam on the speaker. I attached the speaker wire I ran from behind the speaker to the factory wiring. I connected the wires on the outside of the door panel instead of behind the speaker so I would not have to worry about water getting into the wiring connection that I made, or the exposed factory connector. Correct polarity makes a huge difference in sound quality, and bass response. If you do not have an aftermarket head unit installed, it could be more difficult to locate which wires are positive and negative. In an aftermarket wiring, white is always front left, grey is front right, green is rear left, and purple is rear right. The black stripe wire is always negative.

 

By the way, these speakers made the worlds biggest difference in sound. I cannot wait to see what they sound like with an amp and sub.

 

 

When I got this vehicle, the battery was new with a lot of battery acid stains everywhere. The original battery either exploded or leaked out everywhere, and when they had it replaced they never cleaned up the mess. so, the battery terminals were one big ball of corrosion. I had to pry them off, and decided to cut them off and just install new ones. the battery mount was covered as well and the bolt that holds it down had rusted completely off. I removed the battery tray to clean off all the surfaces, and it also gave me more room to run wires and to upgrade others. instead of running a second ground cable for the battery, I decided to upgrade the factory 8 gauge wire to a 0 gauge wire. I also decided to upgrade the factory 8 gauge wire that runs to the fuse panel under the hood. This wire also supplies the battery with charging voltage from the alternator during engine running. I upgraded this wire to a 4 gauge wire. I then had to put terminal ends on all of the other factory wires that connect to the battery. With running the 4 gauge wire for the amplifier, I always prefer to mount the fuse holder instead of zip tying to another wire or just leaving it hang loose. The fuse panel box is completely open under the fuse panel itself. I decided to mount it to the side of this box. I then ran the wire through the fire wall at the huge grommet right behind the battery. I ran the battery cabling to the drivers rear seat. I still have not decided if I am going to mount the amp under the seat, behind the right quarter panel with the sub enclosure, or the left quarter panel. The only way I would put it under the seat is if it does not interfere with the seat folding down flat.

 

 

 

[RoadKingGibson]

Hi Squish3825, Are you going to continue your install on this forum?

[squish3825]

I decided to put the amp and sub enclosure in the right rear of the vehicle where the factory amp and sub woofer are mounted. Instead of running the amp turn on wire to the rear of the vehicle, I used the existing wire in the factory sub woofer amplifier connector. My wire color was blue/red, but i would check with a voltmeter just to be sure before you just make an assumption. I ran the RCA cables down the passenger side of the vehicle, and ran the power cable behind the rear seat. I remove the factory sub woofer amplifier, and mounted the PDX-5 amplifier in it's place. Since it was starting to get colder outside, I decided to just wire up the factory sub for the time being until I make the enclosure for the alpine 12 inch sub. The factory sub is a dual 2 ohm voice coil sub. I wired it is series so that it would give me 4 ohms at the amplifier. It sounds ok at best. I could not turn the gain up very much at all before the sub started to distort.

 

 

With the ERA-G320 Digital Processor, I placed it in the hole below the radio and behind the climate controls. there is plenty of room for multiple components to fit in this space. I used to have the controller for the ERAG mounted in the roof of my previous vehicle, but since I have the panoramic sunroof, I do not have the space to place it there anymore. so I just have it sitting in the top tray of the glove box. The ERAG connects to the Headunit with an AI-net cable for sound input. The Sirius adapter has to be inline before the ERAG so the sound will transfer to it, and the headunit can still controll it. You have to flip the switch on the bottom of the unit to the AI-net function instead of normal. All alpine headunits with the AI-net plug in the back has this switch. Flipping the switch changes some features in the headunit as well. You no longer have any control over the bass and treble, and any sound presets. You can still adjust the sub woofer level, fad and balance All audio is now controlled through the ERA-G320. The RCA's connect to the output of the ERAG instead of the headunit now. The ERA-G320 clears the sound up more than anything, and drastically improves the sound quality. The only downfall to it is that if you don't have the ear to tune a system with a true EQ, it can sound like garbage. If you can though, it will sound amazing. I have also noticed that when cruising down the Highway with the windows down and the volume turned up, it is still clear and no more distortion. I cannot wait until spring so I can build the sub enclosure.

 

Again sorry for the long time between posts,

[RobynL_328]

Thanks for detailing your experience. I have the exact same truck, the 08 limited and I shared this with my boyfriend and he thought it was very informative.