PTU drain plug drill and tap

[jlkansascity]

FLUID FILL LEVEL PTU

 

My wife's Edge is having some road noise that sounds like a wheel bearing but upon searching I am concerned it might be the PTU.

 

Car details: 2012 AWD, 45k miles

 

I sucked out some of the fluid and it was black. Did not get much out despite my best efforts. Pushed in new, pulled out, pushed in, pulled out, etc. The fluid now looks more like coffee, a little translucent instead of pitch black.

 

I see on here the 1.5" to 1.75" fill level using the zip tie.

 

However I looked up in the Ford service manual and it says to fill to bottom edge of fill plug.

 

This seems like a significant difference.

 

Can someone tell me where the zip tie fill method came from?

 

Has anyone had an issue filling to the bottom of the filler? It makes me more comfortable having a little more.

 

 

The zip tie method came from user WWWPerfA_ZN0W on this forum, who seems very knowledgeable. When I went through what you're doing right now, if I filled it to the bottom of the plug, it seemed to always blow some out the venting, making a big mess and leaking all over my garage floor. So, I used the zip tie method and it seemed to work a lot better by keeping the fluid down a little from the plug.

 

I sucked out what I could, re-filled. Did this again every week for a month, then every month a few times. Now doing it every 6 months and it's not leaking or stinking anymore and the fluid is nearly normal looking.

[Jesse Kershaw]

 

 

The zip tie method came from user WWWPerfA_ZN0W on this forum, who seems very knowledgeable. When I went through what you're doing right now, if I filled it to the bottom of the plug, it seemed to always blow some out the venting, making a big mess and leaking all over my garage floor. So, I used the zip tie method and it seemed to work a lot better by keeping the fluid down a little from the plug.

 

I sucked out what I could, re-filled. Did this again every week for a month, then every month a few times. Now doing it every 6 months and it's not leaking or stinking anymore and the fluid is nearly normal looking.

 

Thank you for the clarification. I used the zip tie method for this time. I plan to go through it again in a couple weeks. I may fill it a little higher just for my own eyes to see if it blows out.

 

FYI - I had a hard time getting the fill right on the mark with the zip tie. Add a little and it's too much, try to suck out just a touch and now it's too low. I also found that if I pushed the tie in just a little too much it would give a different reading. Not a huge deal just a little tricky to get right on. Maybe this is why they recommend bottom of the plug, hard to screw up and the rest blows out.

[Ironpeddler]

Ironpedeler;

What were your symptoms?

Well, it started out with a few black drip marks on my driveway, no other symptoms...and I noticed them because I have a concrete driveway. They were very small...and if I had an asphalt driveway I may not have noticed them. When I had my next oil change, I asked the guy to check to see where it was coming from. After the service, he asked me if the car was hard to turn? I said no, he asked because the power steering fluid was almost empty. He filled it and said to keep an eye on it. I then moved the car to different parts of my driveway to see if it was still leaking...and it slowed down and then stopped. So I figured it may have been the PS pump as the guy put in a sealer with the new fluid.

 

Within a month or two I started to hear a low hum from the front. At first I thought it was a wheel bearing...and having already replaced the rear bearings, I figured it was the fronts now failing. I jacked the car up and grabbed it 12 o'clock & 6 o'clock and did the jiggle. Seemed tight. I then did the research here and found out it was the PTU failing. I did the suck-out-the-old-lube (none came out) and added the new synthetic lube and I think all that did was buy me a little more time, the damage was already done at that point. I then figured out that the reason the spotting stopped was the PTU ran out of lube. When I added the proper amount, it then dripped the new fluid on the driveway...when I got back under the car, the seals from the drive-shaft and axle were both dripping wet.

 

As time went on, the hum turned into a low rumble that turned into a slight vibration (drive shaft, front PS axle I figured) as I took off and it would subside as I picked up speed (the speed centered the shafts within the lose bearing)....then after another month or so the vibration got worse. I was hardly using the vehicle at this point (my son was using it to commute to work, 4 miles round trip) and it finally got to the point to where it was making a noise like metal in a coffee can. This whole time frame was October 2014 to July 2015. I had it parked in my driveway until last week when I finally had it fixed...$1,500.63 was my final total. Now that the PTU noises are gone...I do in fact need front wheel bearings. The 'roar' of those spinning were muffled by the PTU noises. Ford quoted me $647.00 to change both fronts....no new hub w/new bearings, just pressing in new FoMoCo bearings into my existing hub.

 

Hope this helps.

[pbodoh]

Took my 2008 Edge in for the fuel tank recall, a week later I noticed a leak. Got underneath and found the PTU is leaking. I am thinking the took a short cut and had the driveshaft attached and let it hang while replacing the fuel tank. I called and explained what was happening an they were very rude to me about it. I have an appointment for it to be looked but I am not happy on how I was treated.

[threeputtpar]

I've been having the same leaking issues from the PTU vent on my newly acquired 2008 Taurus X AWD, so I've been researching the issue and that lead me here. Seeing that the leaks come from the vent on top, I decided to dig in and find out how to solve the issue. I removed the intake pipe, throttle body, and because I have rear heat the two hoses coming off of the thermostat housing. This is where that got me:

To liberate the vent valve from the PTU, I first tried to pry off the jiggle hat. After about an hour of no progress, Anger won out over patience and a slip lock pliers was implemented and both the hat and valve came out as a unit:

 

It took a bit of prying to get the hat off of the valve, but here is what it looks like inside. Honestly I was expecting just an open tube in the fitting:

 

 

I took the opportunity to try to clean out as much as I could from the top. Here is the first batch of 12 Qtips. There were two more batches:

 

Then the valve went back in without its hat, as I had other plans on how and where it would vent:

 

My idea was to retrofit the updated vent tube from the 2013+ Taurus models, and here it is in all its glory:

 

I did need an extra foot of tubing and a fitting to put the two together. The ID of the vent tube is 3/8" and the OD of the vent on the PTU is 1/2". I couldn't find a proper reducer, so I heated the end of the 3/8" stub hose and gorillaed it on the vent. So far, it's not leaking from the vent or the tube that's pressed on. At this point I think I'll just start changing out as much of the fluid as I can for fresh stuff as often as my schedule allows and hope at some point it starts to clean up. The finished project:

 

 

Hope this helps anyone who had the same questions I did about the vent valve that Google just couldn't answer.

 

 

Edited February 29, 2016 by threeputtpar

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Well done Hope this will be the last you see of the nasty vent leak issue. Just wish you could have found a way to include the king of jury rigging - duct tape

[Ironpeddler]

 

I've been having the same leaking issues from the PTU vent on my newly acquired 2008 Taurus X AWD, so I've been researching the issue and that lead me here. Seeing that the leaks come from the vent on top, I decided to dig in and find out how to solve the issue. I removed the intake pipe, throttle body, and because I have rear heat the two hoses coming off of the thermostat housing. This is where that got me:

 

 

To liberate the vent valve from the PTU, I first tried to pry off the jiggle hat. After about an hour of no progress, Anger won out over patience and a slip lock pliers was implemented and both the hat and valve came out as a unit:

 

 

 

 

It took a bit of prying to get the hat off of the valve, but here is what it looks like inside. Honestly I was expecting just an open tube in the fitting:

 

 

 

I took the opportunity to try to clean out as much as I could from the top. Here is the first batch of 12 Qtips. There were two more batches:

 

 

 

Then the valve went back in without its hat, as I had other plans on how and where it would vent:

 

 

 

My idea was to retrofit the updated vent tube from the 2013+ Taurus models, and here it is in all its glory:

 

 

 

 

 

I did need an extra foot of tubing and a fitting to put the two together. The ID of the vent tube is 3/8" and the OD of the vent on the PTU is 1/2". I couldn't find a proper reducer, so I heated the end of the 3/8" stub hose and gorillaed it on the vent. So far, it's not leaking from the vent or the tube that's pressed on. At this point I think I'll just start changing out as much of the fluid as I can for fresh stuff as often as my schedule allows and hope at some point it starts to clean up. The finished project:

 

 

 

Hope this helps anyone who had the same questions I did about the vent valve that Google just couldn't answer.

 

 

Did you add for fluid to the PTU unit as well?

[Ironpeddler]

 

I've been having the same leaking issues from the PTU vent on my newly acquired 2008 Taurus X AWD, so I've been researching the issue and that lead me here. Seeing that the leaks come from the vent on top, I decided to dig in and find out how to solve the issue. I removed the intake pipe, throttle body, and because I have rear heat the two hoses coming off of the thermostat housing. This is where that got me:

 

 

To liberate the vent valve from the PTU, I first tried to pry off the jiggle hat. After about an hour of no progress, Anger won out over patience and a slip lock pliers was implemented and both the hat and valve came out as a unit:

 

 

 

 

It took a bit of prying to get the hat off of the valve, but here is what it looks like inside. Honestly I was expecting just an open tube in the fitting:

 

 

 

I took the opportunity to try to clean out as much as I could from the top. Here is the first batch of 12 Qtips. There were two more batches:

 

 

 

Then the valve went back in without its hat, as I had other plans on how and where it would vent:

 

 

 

My idea was to retrofit the updated vent tube from the 2013+ Taurus models, and here it is in all its glory:

 

 

 

 

 

I did need an extra foot of tubing and a fitting to put the two together. The ID of the vent tube is 3/8" and the OD of the vent on the PTU is 1/2". I couldn't find a proper reducer, so I heated the end of the 3/8" stub hose and gorillaed it on the vent. So far, it's not leaking from the vent or the tube that's pressed on. At this point I think I'll just start changing out as much of the fluid as I can for fresh stuff as often as my schedule allows and hope at some point it starts to clean up. The finished project:

 

 

 

Hope this helps anyone who had the same questions I did about the vent valve that Google just couldn't answer.

 

 

Nice job and great write up. Did you add more fluid to the PTU unit during your retrofit?

[threeputtpar]

I did not need to add any fluid at that point because months before I had the fluid service done just after purchasing the vehicle, and that is when the leaking started. I now know that the family was selling the vehicle because they were likely hit with the estimate to replace the PTU and freaked and dumped the vehicle as soon as possible.

 

Luckily, they didn't drive it enough that they did any permanent damage to the internals so I can save it with a good routine of fluid changes now.

[threeputtpar]

I can provide some clarification on the proper fill level. My research shows that early PTU designs (2007-early 2008) had a fill line cast into the housing on the side with the fill plug that was around a 1/2 inch below the fill hole. The second design eliminated that cast-in line and that's when Ford changed the fill spec to just at the bottom of the fill plug.

 

It was their first attempt to Band-Aid their terrible design with a few more ounces of fluid. Clearly it didn't work like they hoped it would.

[Cloversdad]

My first post on the forum.I found out today when I took my 2011 Edge to my local dealer and was given the news that my TPU was leaking.The service manage informed me that this a known problem with the Edge.After reading many posts on the forum seems as though FMC could have come up with a fix.My 73000 mile is now in the shop and waiting for its new TPU.Should I make sure that they use synthetic oil in it???? This has been a great vehicle and has been problem free to this point and I have taken excellent care of it.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Main thing is to make sure they doublecheck the factory fill on the PTU, that it should not be low. If you can have them put in Amsoil or another hiperformance PTU fluid, that would be a bonus.

[Ironpeddler]

I just had mine replaced about a month and a half ago. I asked it they would use Amsoil and they said no...it had to be what Ford specified. I asked again saying it exceeded Fords spec and they still refused. I was told here on the forum to make sure it was properly filled after the new unit was installed. The dealer assured me that it was. That's as far as I was able to go with that issue.

 

Keep us posted on your results. Good luck!

[jlkansascity]

I just had mine replaced about a month and a half ago. I asked it they would use Amsoil and they said no...it had to be what Ford specified. I asked again saying it exceeded Fords spec and they still refused. I was told here on the forum to make sure it was properly filled after the new unit was installed. The dealer assured me that it was. That's as far as I was able to go with that issue.

 

Keep us posted on your results. Good luck!

 

That dealer has some sort of personal bias. Legally, they cannot require you to use their brand name oil. It's called Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act. Think about it; how would it go over if they told you that you could only use FORD batteries, wiper, wiper fluid, tires, air fresheners, floormats etc. It's a misguided position for the dealer and technically not legal. They are allowed to specify criteria, and then any lubricant that meets that criteria (Amsoil does for their gear lube in this case) would work. It depends on the dealer. My daughter has two Fords; a 5 year old Escape and a 2015 Mustang. She has ALWAYS brought in her own Amsoil and had the dealer install it, engine, trans, transfer case, differentials, and the dealer doesn't mind at all...

[threeputtpar]

Decided yesterday to install a drain plug and make future fluid changes that much easier since I'll need to be flushing this thing for a while until it cleans up. Here's the list of tools and parts I needed/used:

 

3/8"-18 NPT hex head pipe plug from Grainger ($3)

NPT tap and die set with 3/8"-18 from Harbor Freight ($12 with coupon)

5/16" drill bit for pilot hole and 9/16" bit for final hole

Cordless drill

16mm socket with 3" extension and long handle ratchet

5/16" hex head bit and 6" extension

Center punch and hammer

New fluid and fluid pump

 

Here's the start of the pilot hole:

And were getting part way into the case:

The pilot hole has broken through:

I didn't get any pics of the final hole size drilled or the tapping of it as I was concentrated on not breaking off the tap in the case, so here's the final product:

Filled it up with gear lube and will run it for a week and change fluid again. I even saved a sample of the disgusting old fluid as I'm curious in a UOA of it. It all went much smoother than I thought it would, because on the Taurus X the bottom of the PTU case is pretty low and drill bits were long enough to easily reach up between the exhaust and engine mount. I highly suggest using a hammer drill to do this, as I didn't on the pilot hole and it took way longer than the 9/16" hole did with the hammer action.

 

Edit: I changed the 8mm hex bit to 5/16" because I stripped out the plug while trying to remove it the first time. Had to hammer in a Torx socket to get the darn thing out, then replaced with the same magnetic plug.

 

 

Edited March 29, 2016 by threeputtpar

[Brian K]

It is interesting to read about about the various comments about fill levels - including the zip tie level probes. I have an actual 2008 Ford Workshop Manual that I bought when we got the vehicle. I looked up the PTU Draining and Filling Section. In Volume 2 Section 308-07B-2, item 4 says " with the vehicle on a flat level surface, fill the PTU with lubricant. The fluid must be even with the bottom of the fill opening. (Fluid Capacity is 0.53L (18 oz).".

 

It also says "The PTU is not to be drained unless a leak or contamination is suspected. To drain the PTU fluid, the PTU must be removed from the vehicle. The fluid that is drained away may appear black and have a pungent odor. Do not mistake this for contaminated fluid.". Interesting they think the black sludge is considered normal although they don't define 'contaminated' fluid. I guess that is open to interpretation so they are off the hook.

 

Changing oil is cheaper than changing parts. A DIY drain plug is a great idea and something I will do to help clean out the PTU as others have done. Hopefully the vent is not too plugged up either. Nothing venting from mine so hopefully it is still OK.

[sleddude]

Interesting stuff on this thread.

 

I just bought a 2007 Lincoln MKX with 146k. The car is immaculate, purrs like a kitten, and runs, shifts perfect. Well, almost.

 

The day I bought it, I had my mechanic change all of the fluids. The Transfer case (PTU) had a grey creamy sludge on the fill plug.

 

I took it for a drive about 60 miles each way, and noticed a burning oil smell when I got out of the car. I opened the hood after a minute or two, and didn't see any smoke or anything. On the way home, I stopped and immediately opened the hood and saw a tiny bit of smoke come up from behind the engine for about a half second and stop.

 

I noticed small drops of black oil where I parked it, about the size of a quarter. The wierd thing is, I checked the driveway of the woman I bought it from, and it was totally clean.

 

It seems to shift and drive fine at all speeds.

 

After reading this post, I am wondering if just flushing it a few times would do the trick, or if I should have the seals replaced, or go right for the new transfer case (PTU). I imagine this car has already had the case replaced, since they seem to go out at 60-90k.

 

Jlkansascity, did yours leak from the seals, or out the vent? I am hoping I can squeek out having to buy a new PTU.

 

Any advice would be appreciated.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Welcome, sleddude, 'gratz on the new ride!

 

From your description, I'd say a multiple drain & fill should keep the PTU running right. If the fluid were brownish in color, indicating mixed PTU and trans fluids, then you'd be looking at seals at the very least. Since the color is still black, it is likely the fluid simply came out the vent. Sludging is ok, as long as there are no metal particles (small amt/shavings expected on the plug itself) in the fluid. There are part numbers stamped on the PTU, I'd take a good look and see what revision it is, to get an idea re when it might have been replaced. Also, the factory puts markings on the assembly bolts and casing for alignment (and derivatively, tampering). If they don't line up, that would be another indication the PTU has been replaced.

 

Budget for a new PTU, but right now, focus on flushing the unit. With any luck the old fluid won't be a bear to extract.

 

EDIT: There is a PTU vent extension available per TSB for the Mustang and Taurus. It is one way to add a bit of fluid capacity to the PTU, keep a submersion from killing the PTU, and prevent spillage from the vent onto the chassis/ground (more room to expand).

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=171259

TSB 10-14-2 PTU Fluid Leak - Vent Area 2010 Taurus.pdf

Edited May 1, 2016 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W

[sleddude]

Thanks wwwperfa-znow. Interesting piece on the update. However, if you pull the PTU to put the kit on, at that point, shouldn't you just put a new one in anyway? how much is the PTU itself (part price)

 

Here is another piece. The MKX sat for a few days, then I moved it about 20 feet to get another car out of the driveway. The engine and tranny never heated up. It was sitting in that same spot for a day or so, with no leaks.

 

Also, there are a lot of references about heat from the exhaust accelerating the breakdown of the fluid. Has anyone tried foil tape to reflect the heat away?

 

Thanks everyone for this rescource.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Bump. How's the shielding working out for you, coronan? TIA.

I'm doing What Ford Should have.

 

Extra Heat Shielding for the PTU shaft seal.

 

The piece of sheet metal i added is about 3.5" x 5.5"

If i had to make it again I would only make 5" long.

 

The shield now spans the entire width of the Exhaust pipe and will limit heat from radiating up.

 

Work Smarter; not Harder.

[DRbillZ]

So if one has a new AWD, why not use a Pella oil extractor and get the stock crap oil out and fill with better stuff and change often and you'll never have to add a drain plug?

[akirby]

Because it's not the quality of the fluid. Ford should have included a drain plug and called for regular fluid changes.

Edited May 9, 2016 by akirby

[DRbillZ]

Pretty sure mine calls for it(now) but I'll double check that. And yes I realize that doesn't mean they did in the past.

Nope. Doesn't. Heck it doesn't even say when the change the engine oil... other than when the change oil thingy comes up... Lol.

Edited May 9, 2016 by DRbillZ

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Very true, that may actually work now that the IOLM is actually trying to take the type of driving into account (pg 403):

 

When to expect the message prompting you to change your oil
Interval Vehicle use and example
Normal 7500-10000 miles (12000-16000 km)
Normal commuting with highway driving
No, or moderate, load or towing
Flat to moderately hilly roads
No extended idling
Severe 5000-7499 miles (8000-11999 km)
Moderate to heavy load or towing
Mountainous or off-road conditions
Extended idling
Extended hot or cold operation
Extreme 3000-4999 miles (4800-7999 km)

Maximum load or towing
Extreme hot or cold operation

[Ironpeddler]

Very true, that may actually work now that the IOLM is actually trying to take the type of driving into account (pg 403):

 

When to expect the message prompting you to change your oil

Interval Vehicle use and example

Normal 7500-10000 miles (12000-16000 km)

Normal commuting with highway driving

No, or moderate, load or towing

Flat to moderately hilly roads

No extended idling

Severe 5000-7499 miles (8000-11999 km)

Moderate to heavy load or towing

Mountainous or off-road conditions

Extended idling

Extended hot or cold operation

Extreme 3000-4999 miles (4800-7999 km)

Maximum load or towing

Extreme hot or cold operation

This is engine oil or PTU oil change?