:Door Ajar" warning on at all times

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Haven't done this yet. But it has been mentioned that the interior panel is glued on, in addition to being bolted on. I guess take a heat gun or hair dryer to it?

Edited October 8, 2013 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W

[Step]

Sounds reasonable, I'll give it a try when the part arrives.

 

Thanks

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Thought I'd add this door latch replacement info from the 2007 Edge Workshop Manual:

 

Removal and Installation

1. Remove the door trim panel. For additional information, refer to Section 501-05 .

http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Ford-Edge-Door-Panel-Removal-Speaker-Replacement-Guide/index.html

1. Remove the door window regulator and motor assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 501-11 .

http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Ford-Edge-Power-Window-Motor-Replacement-Guide/index.html

1. Disconnect the interior door handle actuating cable.

1. If equipped, disconnect the door lock cylinder actuating rod.

1. Disconnect the door handle reinforcement actuating rod.

1. NOTE: Front door shown, rear door similar.

Release the door latch rear locking clip.

1. NOTE: Front door shown, rear door similar.

Release the door latch front locking clip.

1. Disconnect the door latch electrical connector.
2. Release the door latch front locking clip.

1. Remove the door latch with the door lock actuating rod.

1. If necessary, disconnect the door lock actuating rod.

1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
   • Lubricate the door latch to striker surfaces after installation.

 

[James Halliwell]

Thanks for the info. After driving cross country three times plus, finally started to get real annoyed with it and took it in @50,300 mi and of coarse found out warranty was up. Now at about 52,000 and I'm getting mad. I'm gonna try the spray before I take it apart and replace myself. The hell I'm paying 400 for a malfunction on fords side.

[Darlene Underwood]

I have a 2011 edge with 56k on it and have the same door ajar problem. Took it to the dealer and he told me the 2011 edge door sensor changed from a plunger type switch to a electronic switch therefore the compete door lock assembly has to be changed . Cost will be 748$ This problem happened 1 month after warranty ran out. The electronic switch was supposed to be a fix for fords ongoing problem with Door Ajar warning. Guess not!!!

[PrinzII]

Darlene: Trust me when I tell you it's not. After we had the latch changed, no more issue.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Door latch! Lubricating the latch has helped some folks for sure. Preferably with an electronics-safe cleaner if not opening up the door panel.

[2011edgese]

Yup. Since September of last year, mines is fixed and has not come back. Follow what I did. Spray wd40, let it set for 10 minutes so it penetrates, open and closer the door to get things moving. Then spray the hell out of it with electrical cleaner. Use the whole bottle. Use my pics that I posted to see exactly where I sprayed. It's a sweet spot that fixed mines. It's been 4 months now and it hasn't come back. What might have helped alot was how I sprayed wd40 on it and it moved some debrie around and lubed everything, then sprayed the electrical cleaner that flushed everything. That's just my thoughts. But! Don't just spray wd40! If you do, it makes it worse and it never goes away.

[2011EdgeT]

I also have a 2011 Edge with the door ajar problem. It was fixed under warranty at about 28.5K by replacing the door latch assembly but the new latch has also failed after it went out of warranty. I have tried the electrical cleaner spray and it has corrected the problem for now. I will wait to see how long it will last. Thanks for the information.

[omar302]

I also have a 2011 Edge with the door ajar problem. It was fixed under warranty at about 28.5K by replacing the door latch assembly but the new latch has also failed after it went out of warranty. I have tried the electrical cleaner spray and it has corrected the problem for now. I will wait to see how long it will last. Thanks for the information.

Remember, when a part is replaced, you get a 12month/12k miles warranty on it. So even if the bumper to bumper warranty expired you might still be covered for the latch.

[12Edge]

Ok so I took a look at mine this weekend because I have been getting the dreaded "Door Ajar of Death" message on my drivers side door. I am going to say this early on... there isn't a way to really service the door latch module that is part of this system so don't take it apart thinking there is something to adjust of tinker with. In the end I smacked mine around a bit and its working so far but I expect it to start failing again soon.

For my 2012 (should be same 2011-2013):

1. Remove the outer door trim panel. 2 Phillips screws on the bottom edge, 1 on the inside edge closest to the hinge about half way up.

2. Pop off the plastic panel (mine is silver) just above the rubber grip on the door handle. Its a pry off type.

3. Remove the bolt (10mm head) in the hole uncovered by above cover (Its in the deep hole). There was also a torx screw above the deep hole that I took out but don't think it was necessary to remove.

4. Pop off the window control buttons by prying up at the edge closest to the rear of the vehicle. The front hooks in so don't pry there. Unplug the two connectors underneath to completely remove it.

5. Inside the opening from the windows buttons there is another 10mm head Bolt to remove, take it out.

6. Start from the bottom edge and pull the trim panel away from the door to make the push pins release. Some may break or stay in the door it is normal. You may want to get some more to replace broken ones. I find them in the "Help" section at my auto parts store.

7. Once all the push pins are released gently lift the panel upwards to unhook it from the lip at the top by the window. DO NOT pull it completely away once its off the top, there are two wires to disconnect for the mirror control and door lock switch. Reach in between the panel and door trim and disconnect those first, then you can take the panel completely away and put it somewhere safe and clean.

8. Look at the end of the door where the latch is. I had two small rubber plugs near the top close to the window. Remove the lower rubber plug. There is a torx bolt deep in there that holds the handle in place. Remove it with a magnetic bit. BE CAREFUL! YOU DON'T WANT TO DROP IT IN THE DOOR ESPECIALLY DURING INSTALLATION!

9. Take the 3 torx bolts out of the latch, 2 above the latch one under. They were all black on my car.

10. Pull the outside door handle like you are going to open the door. You should be able to pull at the rearmost part of the handle that is still attached to the body that is around the door lock (assuming you have a lock like I do). As you pull it away from the body at the rearmost edge it will kind of "roll" out. In other words the rearmost part should come out and allow the lip at the front edge of that little piece to come out easily.

11. The rest of the handle is one piece and the way I got it out was to gently encourage it to slide in the holes towards the rear of the car. I tugged it out some and back towards the rear of the car some and it just disengaged and came out of the hole.

12. With the handle out of the way there is a torx screw that you can loosen but do not have to remove as it is in a slotted opening in the body of the car and will just slide out if you push it towards the front of the car.

13. With the outside handle completely removed and the latch disconnected at the edge of the door it is time to detach the window. On the inside of the door there are two large black rubber plugs near the top of the black plastic door module. Pop them out. If your window is all the way up slowly lower it a bit at a time (yes you will have to temporarily plug in the window control box in to the harness) and you will see a torx bolt appear in those two holes. Loosen them a about 4-6 turns but DO NOT remove them. They simply release the window from the rubberized saddle that holds it in place. Pressing inwards with your palms on either side of the glass lift it up until it is at the top of the track and looks like it would if you had closed it. Use some tape to hold the window up. DO NOT skimp here. I used a little tape and while I was re-installing the tape released (about an hour after installing it) and fortunately the door module was back in place and the glass just dropped back in to the saddle.

14. Looking at the black plastic "Door Module" there are about 12 - 15 silver 10mm headed bolts all around the outside perimeter of it. I took all of them out but left two at the top outside holes in a couple of turns so the door module hung from them.

15. There is a rubber flap that the wires go in to close to the hinge. Lift it up to give the wires room move so you can maneuver around the module.

16. Removing the door module. Make sure the Torx screw has not re-seated itself on the outside handle as you are now going to remove the module and its all one piece, handle, latch window tracks and all!. Take out those last two bolts you left in at the top of the module. You will have to wiggle the door module down and towards the inside bottom corner of the door (corner under the hinge). This was more art than exacting for me. I kept working it and eventually it all came loose and out. DO NOT pull it all the way out, when there is enough room reach up inside the door where the code entry module is (assuming you have a code entry pad on the outside) and unplug that wire. Once you get the wire unplugged and the entire door module free you can lay it on a stool/low box on its side with the door open. ( it is still of course attached to the wire harness at the door)

17. The latch module is the big white/black plastic part that was at the edge of the door module. It has several linkages attached for handle cables, the lock button and the key etc... This is where my information is going to be a bit thin. I remember there was a tab where the pull cable attaches from the inner door handle to the latch. When the plastic tab is released on one side of the hole the cable goes in there is a cover that comes off and you can see the curved Z-Bend end on the cable attaches to the hole in the latch mechanism. Similarly the other things are attached with S or Z bends so you have to wiggle them around to get them out. There are a couple of plastic latches at the top and bottom and if I am not mistaken along the edge holding the latch to the door module. Once all linkages and latches and the one plug is unplugged you can remove the latch.

You will find it pretty much impossible to take apart. There are metal pins with flattened heads that will have to be ground off to open it etc... I finally realized that I was probably going to break something and be unable to use my car while I waited for the latch so I quit trying to open it. I banged around the outside with a plastic screwdriver handle and put it all back together. About 100 opens so far, no failure.

The part is around $120 online before shipping/tax so I will probably order one when I can for when it acts up again.

Installation is the reverse of the above. I would recommend not bolting down the entire door module (dozen or so bolts around its perimeter) until you have that bolt that goes in the edge of the door for the handle parts to be held in place in case you drop it. Don't want to take all that apart again.

Also don't overtighten the glass window saddles or you might break the glass. I can try to find the torx spec later.

OK.. Straight out of the ford service manual: To install, tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).

Edited February 20, 2014 by 12Edge

[2011edgese]

 

Ok so I took a look at mine this weekend because I have been getting the dreaded "Door Ajar of Death" message on my drivers side door. I am going to say this early on... there isn't a way to really service the door latch module that is part of this system so don't take it apart thinking there is something to adjust of tinker with. In the end I smacked mine around a bit and its working so far but I expect it to start failing again soon.

 

For my 2012 (should be same 2011-2013):

1. Remove the outer door trim panel. 2 Phillips screws on the bottom edge, 1 on the inside edge closest to the hinge about half way up.

2. Pop off the plastic panel (mine is silver) just above the rubber grip on the door handle. Its a pry off type.

3. Remove the bolt (10mm head) in the hole uncovered by above cover (Its in the deep hole). There was also a torx screw above the deep hole that I took out but don't think it was necessary to remove.

4. Pop off the window control buttons by prying up at the edge closest to the rear of the vehicle. The front hooks in so don't pry there. Unplug the two connectors underneath to completely remove it.

5. Inside the opening from the windows buttons there is another 10mm head Bolt to remove, take it out.

6. Start from the bottom edge and pull the trim panel away from the door to make the push pins release. Some may break or stay in the door it is normal. You may want to get some more to replace broken ones. I find them in the "Help" section at my auto parts store.

7. Once all the push pins are released gently lift the panel upwards to unhook it from the lip at the top by the window. DO NOT pull it completely away once its off the top, there are two wires to disconnect for the mirror control and door lock switch. Reach in between the panel and door trim and disconnect those first, then you can take the panel completely away and put it somewhere safe and clean.

 

8. Look at the end of the door where the latch is. I had two small rubber plugs near the top close to the window. Remove the lower rubber plug. There is a torx bolt deep in there that holds the handle in place. Remove it with a magnetic bit. BE CAREFUL! YOU DON'T WANT TO DROP IT IN THE DOOR ESPECIALLY DURING INSTALLATION!

9. Take the 3 torx bolts out of the latch, 2 above the latch one under. They were all black on my car.

10. Pull the outside door handle like you are going to open the door. You should be able to pull at the rearmost part of the handle that is still attached to the body that is around the door lock (assuming you have a lock like I do). As you pull it away from the body at the rearmost edge it will kind of "roll" out. In other words the rearmost part should come out and allow the lip at the front edge of that little piece to come out easily.

11. The rest of the handle is one piece and the way I got it out was to gently encourage it to slide in the holes towards the rear of the car. I tugged it out some and back towards the rear of the car some and it just disengaged and came out of the hole.

12. With the handle out of the way there is a torx screw that you can loosen but do not have to remove as it is in a slotted opening in the body of the car and will just slide out if you push it towards the front of the car.

13. With the outside handle completely removed and the latch disconnected at the edge of the door it is time to detach the window. On the inside of the door there are two large black rubber plugs near the top of the black plastic door module. Pop them out. If your window is all the way up slowly lower it a bit at a time (yes you will have to temporarily plug in the window control box in to the harness) and you will see a torx bolt appear in those two holes. Loosen them a about 4-6 turns but DO NOT remove them. They simply release the window from the rubberized saddle that holds it in place. Pressing inwards with your palms on either side of the glass lift it up until it is at the top of the track and looks like it would if you had closed it. Use some tape to hold the window up. DO NOT skimp here. I used a little tape and while I was re-installing the tape released (about an hour after installing it) and fortunately the door module was back in place and the glass just dropped back in to the saddle.

 

14. Looking at the black plastic "Door Module" there are about 12 - 15 silver 10mm headed bolts all around the outside perimeter of it. I took all of them out but left two at the top outside holes in a couple of turns so the door module hung from them.

15. There is a rubber flap that the wires go in to close to the hinge. Lift it up to give the wires room move so you can maneuver around the module.

16. Removing the door module. Make sure the Torx screw has not re-seated itself on the outside handle as you are now going to remove the module and its all one piece, handle, latch window tracks and all!. Take out those last two bolts you left in at the top of the module. You will have to wiggle the door module down and towards the inside bottom corner of the door (corner under the hinge). This was more art than exacting for me. I kept working it and eventually it all came loose and out. DO NOT pull it all the way out, when there is enough room reach up inside the door where the code entry module is (assuming you have a code entry pad on the outside) and unplug that wire. Once you get the wire unplugged and the entire door module free you can lay it on a stool/low box on its side with the door open. ( it is still of course attached to the wire harness at the door)

17. The latch module is the big white/black plastic part that was at the edge of the door module. It has several linkages attached for handle cables, the lock button and the key etc... This is where my information is going to be a bit thin. I remember there was a tab where the pull cable attaches from the inner door handle to the latch. When the plastic tab is released on one side of the hole the cable goes in there is a cover that comes off and you can see the curved Z-Bend end on the cable attaches to the hole in the latch mechanism. Similarly the other things are attached with S or Z bends so you have to wiggle them around to get them out. There are a couple of plastic latches at the top and bottom and if I am not mistaken along the edge holding the latch to the door module. Once all linkages and latches and the one plug is unplugged you can remove the latch.

 

You will find it pretty much impossible to take apart. There are metal pins with flattened heads that will have to be ground off to open it etc... I finally realized that I was probably going to break something and be unable to use my car while I waited for the latch so I quit trying to open it. I banged around the outside with a plastic screwdriver handle and put it all back together. About 100 opens so far, no failure.

 

The part is around $120 online before shipping/tax so I will probably order one when I can for when it acts up again.

 

Installation is the reverse of the above. I would recommend not bolting down the entire door module (dozen or so bolts around its perimeter) until you have that bolt that goes in the edge of the door for the handle parts to be held in place in case you drop it. Don't want to take all that apart again.

 

Also don't overtighten the glass window saddles or you might break the glass. I can try to find the torx spec later.

woah! You didn't try my method? Took me 5 minutes. Not one screw was touched. And it's been working fine for the last 3 1/2 months without one ajar error. I posted pics too. Cost me a can of electric cleaner only. I swear to who every is God, it works.

[12Edge]

I hear what you are saying but I have no idea why it would work. There isn't anything to spray but the latch components in the opening. Where they move the switch is inside the plastic housing not anywhere that is exposed in the latch. Let me find your post.

[2011edgese]

I hear what you are saying but I have no idea why it would work. There isn't anything to spray but the latch components in the opening. Where they move the switch is inside the plastic housing not anywhere that is exposed in the latch. Let me find your post.

My method has worked 100 percent. If you find my post and look at my pictures and do exactly is what I did and most likely you will save yourself a trip to the dealer.all it takes is a can of wd-40 and a can of electrical cleaner. The WD 40 moves the debris around and lubricates and the electrical cleaner washes the WD 40 off everything and rinses everything. At least that's what I think is going on and why it works for me

Edited February 18, 2014 by 2011edgese

[twintornados]

Going to weigh in here....I just bought my 2011 Lincoln MKX and began to notice the "door ajar" signal forcing me to re-close the door....for some reason, I thought to myself, latch assembly problems? What if i used the manual key to lock and unlock the door a few times? I did several lock/unlock cycles with the manual key (aka, insert in lock, twist left and right several times) and I have not seen the "door ajar" light come on since.....not sure if they relate, but somehow, it seems to have helped....

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Worth trying out for sure!

[2011edgese]

Going to weigh in here....I just bought my 2011 Lincoln MKX and began to notice the "door ajar" signal forcing me to re-close the door....for some reason, I thought to myself, latch assembly problems? What if i used the manual key to lock and unlock the door a few times? I did several lock/unlock cycles with the manual key (aka, insert in lock, twist left and right several times) and I have not seen the "door ajar" light come on since.....not sure if they relate, but somehow, it seems to have helped....

got lucky. I did that too at first just to get the wd deep with the key. Didn't fix mines. But I managed to get it going.

[twintornados]

Going to weigh in here....I just bought my 2011 Lincoln MKX and began to notice the "door ajar" signal forcing me to re-close the door....for some reason, I thought to myself, latch assembly problems? What if i used the manual key to lock and unlock the door a few times? I did several lock/unlock cycles with the manual key (aka, insert in lock, twist left and right several times) and I have not seen the "door ajar" light come on since.....not sure if they relate, but somehow, it seems to have helped....

Well....it worked for a while, but the dredded "door ajar" warning has returned...off to the dealership this friday and will have it looked at....CPO and extended warranty, so while I am at it, I will have them check the alignment, inspect the moonroof screen cover for puckering on the passenger side, and look at the driver seat track that is "chucking" or "rocking" in the track during acceleration and deceleration.

 

So far, I love my Lincoln....great ride, but the MPG is a far cry from what my Fusion 2.5L got.....I'll have to adjust to that...lol

Edited March 11, 2014 by twintornados

[12Edge]

Here is the "How To" on replacing it:

 

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/14262-how-to-replace-door-latch-module-for-door-ajar-warning/

 

I am going to do a postmortem on the old module after a bit and see what is actually failing and post it on you-tube if its something glaring to embarrass Ford.

Edited March 19, 2014 by 12Edge

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Do an autopsy on the throttle body if you get the chance, 12Edge. I would like to get your opinion on its' construction & possible problem areas TIA.

[twintornados]

Well....it worked for a while, but the dredded "door ajar" warning has returned...off to the dealership this friday and will have it looked at....CPO and extended warranty, so while I am at it, I will have them check the alignment, inspect the moonroof screen cover for puckering on the passenger side, and look at the driver seat track that is "chucking" or "rocking" in the track during acceleration and deceleration.

 

So far, I love my Lincoln....great ride, but the MPG is a far cry from what my Fusion 2.5L got.....I'll have to adjust to that...lol

Update: I had to re-schedule my appt but as soon as I get it in, I will report my results...

[richy]

This bullshit is happening to me now too. It's happened about 6 times so far. Mine is scheduled for tomorrow morning to get the horn replaced (all of a sudden it sound totally wimpy-about 1/3 of the volume). Also, the driver's door unlock sensor is failing. I've already had to have the passenger side handle replaced. Now I'm going to be adding 2 things to the list <sigh>.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

All under warranty, Richy, I hope?

[FordService]

This bullshit is happening to me now too. It's happened about 6 times so far. Mine is scheduled for tomorrow morning to get the horn replaced (all of a sudden it sound totally wimpy-about 1/3 of the volume). Also, the driver's door unlock sensor is failing. I've already had to have the passenger side handle replaced. Now I'm going to be adding 2 things to the list <sigh>.

 

Hey richy,

 

I recommend contacting the Canadian Customer Relationship Center at +1 (1) 800 565 3673. They're in the best position to assist.

 

Todd

[richy]

Todd, thanks for the advice. I took it into the dealer and they ordered some pins or something. We'll see if it fixes it or not. Thankfully, yes, it is under warranty... Even an extended warranty. Got a new door handle on order too.