DIY Proper Steps

[Eatinitup]

I have a 2007 Ford Edge SEL [pictures in gallery]. The paint on the vehicle in my opinion is pretty good for the year of the vehicle. Nothing is dull but over the years it has picked up some contaminants and road grime and I feel it is time for a Clay-Bar and Wax. This vehicle was bought used so that's why I am doing the first clay bar. I have read on some other posts about which products to use and will describe below what I think are the proper steps from what I have read and then would like your feedback.. I will be purchasing all of my products from www.detailedimage.com and have been focusing on the Menzerna and Poorboy's World products.

 

If anyone would like to share links from DetailedImages.com on kits or products that go to the below numbers... Feel Free! This is my first time doing all of these in a step by step manner but I have waxed numerous vehicles before and will be applying by hand and buffing with a Variable speed buffer. Thanks for all of the great POSITIVE comments to come.

 

Steps:

 

1. Wash Vehicle

 

2. Clay-Bar

 

3. Wash/Dry Vehicle

 

4. Polish Vehicle

 

5. Wax Vehicle

 

6. Sealant Vehicle

 

 

Steps 4,5 and 6 are the steps that I am curious about. Is WAXING in stage 5 needed if you are going to be using a good sealant?

[AXCL]

I have a 2007 Ford Edge SEL [pictures in gallery]. The paint on the vehicle in my opinion is pretty good for the year of the vehicle. Nothing is dull but over the years it has picked up some contaminants and road grime and I feel it is time for a Clay-Bar and Wax. This vehicle was bought used so that's why I am doing the first clay bar. I have read on some other posts about which products to use and will describe below what I think are the proper steps from what I have read and then would like your feedback.. I will be purchasing all of my products from www.detailedimage.com and have been focusing on the Menzerna and Poorboy's World products.

 

If anyone would like to share links from DetailedImages.com on kits or products that go to the below numbers... Feel Free! This is my first time doing all of these in a step by step manner but I have waxed numerous vehicles before and will be applying by hand and buffing with a Variable speed buffer. Thanks for all of the great POSITIVE comments to come.

 

Steps:

 

1. Wash Vehicle

 

2. Clay-Bar

 

3. Wash/Dry Vehicle

 

4. Polish Vehicle

 

5. Wax Vehicle

 

6. Sealant Vehicle

 

 

Steps 4,5 and 6 are the steps that I am curious about. Is WAXING in stage 5 needed if you are going to be using a good sealant?

 

Hi Eatinitup,

 

If you are going to do 5 and 6, you'd need to reverse them. Sealant comes first, then wax.

 

To answer your questions, you can, but but don't have to put wax over a sealant, it really depends on the Sealant and what you looking to achieve. The Sealant vs. Wax item is getting to have a very thin line with newer technology. Many synthetic waxes are also considered sealants, so its best to do a lot of research on what you want to get. From experience, the deciding factor usually comes down to time vs. shine. In fact, you can get really good polish/sealants, so you could even stop at step #4. Their are a lot of pros doing just that with products like Duragloss 105. This product also can be used with a bonding agent that make it even more durable and topped with many "boosters" to extend the life and add more shine. I have other items I use on my paint, but this is what I use on my Rims.

 

You sound like your exactly in the same mindset as I was a couple of years ago when I first looked into trying to get a more professional look and durability to my paint. I received a lot of great info and assistance on here and on Live2Detail.com.

 

There are many people on these forums that know a lot more about this then I do, but I know exactly where you are coming from, so if you don't get other responses or have a hard time finding the info you're looking for, I'll do my best to assist further.

 

Cheers!

[Eatinitup]

Hi Eatinitup,

 

If you are going to do 5 and 6, you'd need to reverse them. Sealant comes first, then wax.

 

To answer your questions, you can, but but don't have to put wax over a sealant, it really depends on the Sealant and what you looking to achieve. The Sealant vs. Wax item is getting to have a very thin line with newer technology. Many synthetic waxes are also considered sealants, so its best to do a lot of research on what you want to get. From experience, the deciding factor usually comes down to time vs. shine. In fact, you can get really good polish/sealants, so you could even stop at step #4. Their are a lot of pros doing just that with products like Duragloss 105. This product also can be used with a bonding agent that make it even more durable and topped with many "boosters" to extend the life and add more shine. I have other items I use on my paint, but this is what I use on my Rims.

 

You sound like your exactly in the same mindset as I was a couple of years ago when I first looked into trying to get a more professional look and durability to my paint. I received a lot of great info and assistance on here and on Live2Detail.com.

 

There are many people on these forums that know a lot more about this then I do, but I know exactly where you are coming from, so if you don't get other responses or have a hard time finding the info you're looking for, I'll do my best to assist further.

 

Cheers!

 

 

This was awesome and actually exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the help mate!! +1 to you good sir!

[prb2]

You might want to add a step in between 1 and 2. Here is a link to the product

 

http://www.detailedi...P600/500-ml-S1/

 

It's called IronX and it removes contaminants from the paint that claying will not get unless you use a more agressive clay which is likely to create swirls. I just did my new Edge and was amazed at how much of a difference the IronX made in the condition of the paint. I followed up the IronX with a 'fine' grade of clay and then sealed the paint with Menzerna Pro Lock (which I think is a great sealant). IronX is easy to use, just spray it on, wait a few minutes for it to work and then hose it off. It does have a strong odor to it so you don't want to use it in an enclosed area, but it's a great product.

 

Paul

[richy]

You might want to add a step in between 1 and 2. Here is a link to the product

 

http://www.detailedi...P600/500-ml-S1/

 

It's called IronX and it removes contaminants from the paint that claying will not get unless you use a more agressive clay which is likely to create swirls. I just did my new Edge and was amazed at how much of a difference the IronX made in the condition of the paint. I followed up the IronX with a 'fine' grade of clay and then sealed the paint with Menzerna Pro Lock (which I think is a great sealant). IronX is easy to use, just spray it on, wait a few minutes for it to work and then hose it off. It does have a strong odor to it so you don't want to use it in an enclosed area, but it's a great product.

 

Paul

 

Great post Paul! When IX first came out, I thought "what a load of crap!" Boy, I didn't have to use it too many times to see how it has helped everything, including brand new cars. I highly recommend this product!

[Eatinitup]

So new steps should be.....

 

1. Wash Vehicle

 

2. IRON X

 

3. Clay-Bar

 

4. Wash/Dry Vehicle

 

5. Polish Vehicle with [Wax/Sealant]???

 

Sorry for any confusions.. I just really don't understand the differences between Wax, Polish and Sealant.. Every website I read up on, has a different explanation and none seem to make sence. I guess what I am looking for is for someone to just explain what the steps should be and then also post links to the products in which you are talking about. I am a visual type learner and maybe thats why I am not understanding all of this properly.

Edited April 20, 2012 by Eatinitup

[prb2]

It can get to be very confusing once you see the enormous amount of products out there. It really boils down to what you are comfortable with. You can always expand the products you use as you learn more. So,

1) Wash - is the basic starting point.

2) IronX is one method of cleaning contaminants out of the paint

3) Claying is another method of cleaning contaminants out of the paint

Alternate 4) If you want to polish, the polish is just a way of preparing the paint for the Wax/Sealant step. You can use the polish to do different thing like remove swirls or get a more even finish to the paint so that wheh you put the last products on, you are putting those last products on the best finish you can achive. It isn't necessary to use IronX, Clay or Polish. You can go right from washing to waxing if you choose to. But the final results will depend on which steps you include and which you exclude. If you exclude polishing, you can always go back and do the whole thing over and add the polishing step. Same with IronX and claying. The main reason to do any of this is to protect the surface of the vehicle. The second reason it to have something that looks great.

4) Wash/Dry Vehicle is getting the car ready for the Last Step Product (LSP).

5) Sealant/Wax These two steps are really up to the person doing the work. They are the same thing but they are different. Sealants are a newer product that gives you longer/stronger protection for your paint from the elements. Waxes tend to give a warmer/deeper shine to the paint as well as protection from the elements. Just not as durable as Sealants. If you live in New England, it might be you prefer Sealants because the winters are generally harsh and there isn't as much chance for repeated waxings when it doesn't get above freezing for weeks on end. I you are in Florida, maybe you'd prefer waxes because it brings out the beauty of the paint better than sealants, and the weather doesn't really impact how often you can refresh the wax. Maybe you want to use both so that the sealant gives you longer protection and the wax makes your color just burst. There really isn't a right or wrong answer, it's just a matter of experience and preference. If you choose one method, and don't like the results you can always change the next time you do things.

 

Hope this is some help.

 

Paul

[Eatinitup]

It can get to be very confusing once you see the enormous amount of products out there. It really boils down to what you are comfortable with. You can always expand the products you use as you learn more. So,

1) Wash - is the basic starting point.

2) IronX is one method of cleaning contaminants out of the paint

3) Claying is another method of cleaning contaminants out of the paint

Alternate 4) If you want to polish, the polish is just a way of preparing the paint for the Wax/Sealant step. You can use the polish to do different thing like remove swirls or get a more even finish to the paint so that wheh you put the last products on, you are putting those last products on the best finish you can achive. It isn't necessary to use IronX, Clay or Polish. You can go right from washing to waxing if you choose to. But the final results will depend on which steps you include and which you exclude. If you exclude polishing, you can always go back and do the whole thing over and add the polishing step. Same with IronX and claying. The main reason to do any of this is to protect the surface of the vehicle. The second reason it to have something that looks great.

4) Wash/Dry Vehicle is getting the car ready for the Last Step Product (LSP).

5) Sealant/Wax These two steps are really up to the person doing the work. They are the same thing but they are different. Sealants are a newer product that gives you longer/stronger protection for your paint from the elements. Waxes tend to give a warmer/deeper shine to the paint as well as protection from the elements. Just not as durable as Sealants. If you live in New England, it might be you prefer Sealants because the winters are generally harsh and there isn't as much chance for repeated waxings when it doesn't get above freezing for weeks on end. I you are in Florida, maybe you'd prefer waxes because it brings out the beauty of the paint better than sealants, and the weather doesn't really impact how often you can refresh the wax. Maybe you want to use both so that the sealant gives you longer protection and the wax makes your color just burst. There really isn't a right or wrong answer, it's just a matter of experience and preference. If you choose one method, and don't like the results you can always change the next time you do things.

 

Hope this is some help.

 

Paul

 

PERFECT.. I understand it now!

[Eatinitup]

Found a website yesterday that had some pretty good information and also had some products to purchase. First link below is to the website that has TONS of different options to purchase and the second link is the PACKAGE I am thinking about buying. Let me know what you think!

 

 

Link One:

http://www.autogeek.net/po.html

 

Link Two:

http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-porter-cable-ceramic-show-car-kit.html

[prb2]

^{A lot of the people here are members at AutoGeek as well (I am under the same handle). I tend to buy my stuff from Detailed Image because they are fairly close to me and I get the stuff quickly. AutoGeek is in FL. I've gotten stuff from them and it's shipped pretty quick. It should get to you almost overnight. The showcar package looks good. It seems to have a good across the board selection of stuff. I've got the Proter Cable DA. It's a good machine and hard to do any damage with it. I don't know what else you have, but you should have as many microfiber towels as you can. I've got about 20 at this point and will pick up a few more as the summer goes on. Also, a Quick Detailer is a must. I use Optimum Opti-Clean. It''s great for between washes. There are so many products out there to choose from. I just happen to get the ones I've got. AutoGeek Online has a endless amount of information. Do some reading before you make your purchases but I don't think you can go wrong with any of their products.}

 

^Paul

[Eatinitup]

^{A lot of the people here are members at AutoGeek as well (I am under the same handle). I tend to buy my stuff from Detailed Image because they are fairly close to me and I get the stuff quickly. AutoGeek is in FL. I've gotten stuff from them and it's shipped pretty quick. It should get to you almost overnight. The showcar package looks good. It seems to have a good across the board selection of stuff. I've got the Proter Cable DA. It's a good machine and hard to do any damage with it. I don't know what else you have, but you should have as many microfiber towels as you can. I've got about 20 at this point and will pick up a few more as the summer goes on. Also, a Quick Detailer is a must. I use Optimum Opti-Clean. It''s great for between washes. There are so many products out there to choose from. I just happen to get the ones I've got. AutoGeek Online has a endless amount of information. Do some reading before you make your purchases but I don't think you can go wrong with any of their products.}

 

^Paul

 

Sweet reply, thanks bud!

[PrinzII]

Prb: Which Porter Cable RO (Random Orbital) did you get? 7424 or 7336? I would recommend the 7336 partially because of the larger counterweight which reduces the vibrations.

 

BTW: Which pads did you get?

[PrinzII]

I actually have two RO machines and two rotaries. I use the ROs for polishing my glass (Autoglym has a nice glass polish) and working the Klasse AIO.