ben senise

yes, it's strange that there is no mounting hardware in these diagrams. that looks very much like the nut. while searching for simply "nut" on a ford parts website, and getting thousands of results, i see that they specify a nut for every different part instead of just saying it's certain size nut. very inefficient if you ask me. i have found something called a "Palnut" that is apparently stamped steel. they don't have threads like a normal nut. google it and you'll see. i will try and search for those mustang tail light nuts and see if i can find them. than you very much for your help @Wubster100 !!!

here is the threaded stud that holds the air duct: here is the stud that holds the inverter: the air duct has a part number EM2B-R01902-AC and i can find pictures of it online, none of the pictures show the missing nut that holds it down.

I started noticing a rattle from under the passenger seat. I searched and searched and finally ended up taking the seat off. i found a piece the ducting that delivers hot air to the rear had a missing nut. there's a stud that is welded to the body and thread seems to be the same as one of the nuts that holds down the box that is a 12V to 120V inverter for the plug on the rear of the console. i went to two hardware stores and the nut does not fit on any metric or SAE threads, fine or coarse. i went to the ford dealer and the parts guy says the drawings show the parts but not the other hardware like the nuts. typical frikkin' ford. i don't know how to search for this nut since i don't know what it's called. it looks like a stamped piece, not solid. if anyone has any idea of what this specific type of nut is called, i'd be very grateful to hear it. if anyone knows what thread this thing is, that would even be better. a part number would be awesome. thanks!

i had this problem as well on my 2020 ST. fortunately covered under warranty.

Thanks Haz. i will go through those documents.

i would like to spray some disinfectant into the HVAC air intake in the cowl. when i open the hood, i see the grill where i thought the intake would be and putting my hand there i feel a little bit of air movement. But i can see though the grill towards the back of the car and i see part of the engine compartment. i don't see the opening where the air goes in. i've searched here and youtube and the web but cannot find any images that show the intake. i see lots of complaints about the musty smell after using the AC. I have been turning the AC off and putting the fan on high a few minutes before i get home but the smell is still there. i did spray a bit in that grill and i do smell the product inside the car but it seems to me to not be going directly into the vent. where exactly should i spray the disinfectant? thanks

the real solution is to take back control and install this: https://www.autostopeliminator.com/collections/ford/products/2021-ford-edge-autostop-eliminator no affiliation. i have one and am 100% happy with it. when my engine stops for 1 second every time i stop at a stop sign when leaving my home and the temps are near freezing, i simply cannot believe that this is beneficial for the engine or the environment. sure, sitting at a red light for a few minutes i understand but then i can manually engage this feature.

Something that has always bugged me on my 2020 Edge with Sync 3 is that if I'm using Android Auto and I want to change something on the Ford Sync system, like the steering wheel heater for example, i have to tap the screen so many times to get to the heater button and back. Or if you want to talk to the Ford Sync, you have to back out of Android Auto. I got a 2023 Ford Transit with Sync 4 and a large tablet style display and Sync 4 has a very good solution to this problem. When Android Auto is on the screen, there is a mic icon. If you tap that, you talk to google assistant. If you press the "speak" button on the steering wheel, you get Ford Sync so you can say "set temp to x degrees." I'm just wondering if there's any way to change the behavior on Sync 3 to match the behavior on Sync 4.

sorry for the late reply. i haven't been on the forum as much lately. i eneded up buying the Gorilla 61148FS - LUG NUTS; FACTORY BULGE LUG 13/16" 14-1.50 CHR i ordered some gorilla nuts but they were the wrong size on the tapered part. thread size and socket size were fine but the conical tapered part was fine. it seems that the "bulge" designation is important. i've had them for about a year now and have changed tires 3x and they seem fine. i'm 100% satisfied.

my 2020 ST does that and my 2016 LTD did that as well. mine goes to some static filled AM station and i have to hit the off button every time. i don't have a solution for you. just wanted to tell you that you're not alone. ?

i don't know that much about turbos but water in the intercooler sounds like a reasonable assumption and fits in with my deductive reasoning about the water being pre-combustion. water being post-combustion, e.g. exhaust, doesn't really fit the evidence since i believe that air flow should push out any water. if i accelerated slowly and keep the gear selection in manual so i could rev the engine up in 2nd or 3rd, i wouldn't get the smoke. i would only see smoke when i put my foot to the floor. the latest thing i did was watch the turbo boost gauge. i always thought that the turbos would spin faster as the engine RPM rose. i was very surprised to see that i could have the engine between 5 and 6k RPM the the boost was at zero if i was light on the pedal. OTOH, i could get more boost at 2k RPM by stomping on it. i need to find out what makes the turbos spin. i always thought that the exhaust just passed through the turbo making it spin. more exhaust, faster spin, but that doesn't seem to be the case.

i doubt it for a couple of reasons; first, why would i get smoke on WOT but not medium throttle, and second, the tank had the same gas in it before and after my winding it out a few times.

thought i'd update this post with my latest info and conclusions/hypothesis. i was never very convinced by the leaking head gasket idea. i didn't have oil in the water or water in the oil. it was clearly water vapor as i noticed it fog up the outside of the rear window like a bathroom mirror after a hot shower only that it cleared two seconds after i took my foot off the gas. i started looking at the turbo boost gauge and there was a direct correlation between boost and white smoke. some here suggested water post-combustion but i started thinking that it was possibly pre-combustion, in the turbo or intake somewhere. so i wound out the engine, red-lining it, a few times in a row. watching the boost to to max. after a few runs like this, there was no more smoke. even after the car sat overnight in my garage, still no smoke the next day on WOT. I've driven it a few times since and still no more smoke. it seems to me that there was water somewhere in the intake and that winding it out a few times cleared it. it would be interesting if anyone else with the same symptoms tried this and what results they got.

IIRC there was a recall or TSB on this issue a while back. i had a 2016 and took it in to be fixed. sorry i can't find it and don't have time right this moment.

thanks for this info, i'll give it a try.