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No accidents, no repairs. She wants a Jeep ... Yea, I know... I will post more later.

My 2016 3.5L developed a click at idle with roughly 38,000 miles on it (yes, just out of warranty). It was the tensioner. I purchased a new Motorcraft tensioner for $125 and replaced it myself (not too tough). No more click. It now has 60,000 miles.

Welcome! New guy buys the first round.

Welcome aboard! Let us know what is going on and we will try and help out.

I was WRONG WRONG WRONG! Ok, I started this thread and I am still having issues. My best guess now is my cylinder #6 fuel injector is getting stuck when hot? Here is some more detail. Per above, my car was riding rough and throwing a P0206 and P0306. I thought I had fixed it by going out and disconnecting and reconnecting the electrical connection to the coil??? (I know, makes no sense, let me keep going). But I did that I got back in and it drove fine. Well I got in later that day again and drove 25 miles. No issues. I stopped for a minute and got back in and started it back up. Running rough again and throwing P0206 and P0306. Hmm. I let it sit over night. In the morning I swapped coils and 5 & 6 and also put new OEM boots on the coils. Note the spark plugs are all OEM and have 40,000 miles on them. I started the car and it drove fine. I drove for a while. Stopped and restarted. Running rough and throwing P0206 and P0306. So the error did not follow the coil. So the problem seems to occur when the engine is hot. I did nothing else. The next morning, when it is cold. It runs fine. I have an appointment to bring it into the dealer on Monday. I am pretty sure I could pull the rail and replace the injectors. What do you think? #6 injector is sticking when hot causing the issue? Cooling down it frees up? Try a rail cleaning? Replace all of them? I hope not $$$.

First time I changed the spark plugs I about ruined all those (*^$&^ connectors (red tab, etc.). I finally figured out how they worked after busting 3 or 4 of them. Could they make the plastic any thinner??? Oddly enough, the one on this cylinder was not broken. After 11 years XX,000 heat/cool down cycles, some corrosion must have gotten in there. Class Action!!!!

So i run a quick errand at lunch and get back into my 2009 AWD Edge with 3.5L and 240,000 miles. I start it and I can tell right away it is running rough. Put it in gear and it is still running rough. I can tell it is under powered and running poorly. I keep my eye on the dash waiting for the check engine light. After about 30 seconds it comes on and it is flashing. Uhhggg!. I pulled over and shut it off. I keep a code reader in my car and read the codes. P0206 and P0306. Something is wrong with the 6th cylinder. Likely something wrong with fuel injector vs coil and spark plug. I clear the codes. Start the car. Still running poorly. After about 30 seconds the flashing CEL is on again. I park and head back into work and do some internet research. I decide to come out and simply unplug the fuel injector connector and plug it back in (corrosion?). I get in the car and clear the codes again. I start it (fingers crossed). Smooth as can be. I drive 3 miles. No issues. I get back and read the codes, nothing. I drive home 25 miles, smooth and no codes. Yea, I got lucky. Simply sharing.

The bolts were not loose, the spring/idler wheel would jiggle when the air was turned on and it would make a rattling noise. I replaced it with a new Ford part. It still jiggles when the air was turned on, but there was no rattle. Lots of fun getting the belt back one. Tip - Remove the guard you remove for changing the oil and work underneath as well as on top. Finally got it.

It seems like the whole thing wobbles. Based on the picture I posted, are there just two bolts at the top?

I did some searching, it is the belt tensioner. See pic.

See the attached pictures. My 2016 AWD SEL Edge with 37,000 miles (of course, just out of warranty) just developed a rattle under the hood. The part I am pointing at rattles sometimes (you can see and hear it rattle). Sometimes it stops. My guess is it is the idler pulley or possibly part of the air conditioner. Looks like the belt is attached to it or runs under it. I watched it rattle and then stop (i.e. air conditioner clutch rattling when it grabs and stops when it releases?) Note, air conditioner works fine. Thanks ahead for any help

Sure, here's the story. When I got the Edge in 2010 with roughly 65,000 miles on it, I did my research and found all the posts regarding the PTU. I looked under mine and saw what I thought was a little weeping from it. Panic!!! The deal I got on it came with a special warranty so I took it to the dealer and they put new seals (I think) in it and I was good to go. Well, if they did that, they had to put new fluid in it. So lets assume we had new fluid at 65,000. Role forward to today. It is has now been on the road for 10 years and has 225,000 miles on it. I have had no issue with the PTU and done nothing to it. I want to keep the car for quite a bit longer and decided I should do something, but what??? Well, I have read all (well many of them) of the threads on the PTU and seen the cut away pictures of bad ones. I spoke to a number of "experts and got mixed feedback. So here was my thinking: I could drill a hole in the bottom and but a plug in to help support draining and filling, but I really don't want to do that. If I screw that up, then then I am worse off then before. Not my cup of tea. I have one of those Might Vac suction devices for extracting fluids (note, if you don't have one of those, consider getting one). So I thought about introducing some type of fluid to break up the black sludge and then vacuum it out. All of my experts advised against it. One expert said to do nothing and was treating it like a transmission that has never had service. Thinking that if you change fluids now, you could introduce a problem. That the gunk was keeping it working and new fluid may cause an issue. I have a hard time with that logic. Another expert advised to simply do a number of drain and fills using the correct fluid and because of the Mighty Vac, I can do that. So with the temperature in Michigan at 25 degrees (worse timing ever), I started. The plug on our PTU's has a magnet and it was covered with gunk. I used a zip tie and stuck in down in the hole to see what I had. The level was way down and it was truly black sludge. What I expected give the age and mileage. The low volume didn't concern me too much because I saw no signs of leaks. My assumption is the quantity of fluid in there was correct but it has stuck everywhere and doesn't drain back down. I used the mighty vac and tried to suck some out. It probably got a tablespoon out. Too gunked up. So, I got some 100% synthetic 75W-140 and pumped in 7 squirts of new fluid. Maybe an ounce or two. I did not fill it and I did not want to. I don't want it hurting the seals or have it pumping out the vent. Next week we are supposed to have a day in the 60's. I will get back under there and try to suck some more out and hopefully replace it with a bit more than 7 pumps. I will do this 3 or 4 times and see if I can see progress in breaking up and removing the gunk.

Mine was doing the exact same thing. I sprayed silicone on the top and bottom and that solved it. Door opens and closes much easier as well!

Update: If you read the beginning of this post, you will see I replaced the rear differential fluid in my 2009 Edge on August of 2011 with about 83,000 miles on it. 7 1/2 years later I still own the Edge and it has 225,000 miles on it. Figured I would change it again. I was surprised at how clean the gear oil was. The fill plug has a magnet on it and there was not much stuck to it. Simply sharing. Who knows, maybe it wasn't that clean but a few weeks ago I was trying to change the fluid in my PTU. Black sludge.....l

"I'd like to use 5w30, have some Mobil 1 left over from my Chevy 3.6l I'll probable sell to my buddy or use it in the wife's car." Right, sell it to your buddy. Use only 5W-20.