MacLeod

Actually I think the problem is the new Edges are coming out just around the corner. I looked around online tonight and some of my area dealers have brand spanking new 2010 Edges marked down to $24,000'ish to make room for the new ones I figure. Nobody would buy a used one for $25K when they can get a new one for $24K. Maybe the same reason why Honda and Toyota were so low too. Just great timing on my part. :rolleyes: Its all good. I still got a nice roomy car with a no interest loan. I figure Ill be right side up in a couple years and I can unload it then. So long its just minor annoying problems that I have with this thing and things dont start blowing up, I can make the best of it.

Thats why I prefer to change my own oil. You just never know what "deals" your local dealership has worked out with somebody else. You go in there thinking youre getting Motorcraft 5w20 but youre getting Castrol 5w30 instead. Especially considering you can buy 5 qts for $12 and Pure1 filter for $8 (yeah Im kinda snobby about filters), no reason not to unless you just dont have the time or place to do it.

I tried to trade mine in on something else last week. Like a fool, I went back to Ford first thinking I would be a couple grand upside down but I could get something like a Fusion with my Ford fleet discount from work and the $2000 rebate and should be ok. I paid $29,000 for mine 4 months ago so I figured $25,000 would be realistic (KBB shows $24,000). It was $19,000! Went to Honda and Toyota and was told basically the same thing. $19,000 and maybe $20,000. So this thing has lost ONE THIRD its value in 4 months. I know trade in value is always low but one third?! I got $11,000 on my 3 year old Honda Accord that I bought for $19,000 when I traded it in! On the plus side, knowing that Im stuck with it for a while, it does make it kinda easier to tolerate all the things wrong with it. LOL Who knows, maybe I can fix some of them myself. My dad has an awesome set of tools!

The AC issue isnt with the AC itself I dont think. Mine seems like it takes longer than usual to get the cabin cool but its blowing out 48-50 degree air which is more than plenty cold. I think its more to do with the design of the vents. They look nice and large but put your hand up to one and it feels like the air is being blown out of a straw. Im guessing the opening behind the vent is not very large. Its not a huge deal for me. It does get the cabin nice and cool, it just takes a little longer than normal. The acceleration issue is something I think is a problem inherent with the Edge. Mine is doing it too but at 15-20 MPH. I got the same line from my worthless Ford dealer that "we test drove some other Edges on the lot and they all do it. Theres no codes so nothing is wrong. Its just drivetrain slack. We talked with Ford and they agree." A while back, a member posted about a technical service bulletin that came down the line. It might be a fix. Didnt work for her but it might for yours as hers was not even engaging! I called my dealer 2 weeks ago about this and I get the "let me look into it and Ill call you back" but they never do. Im going up there personally Monday about it. Hopefully it works. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?/topic/4901-attention-ford-edge-owners/

Personally I wouldnt want MDE. I just dont like the idea of cylinders shutting off and on again. Just seems like way too many opportunities for something to screw up. Granted I dont know of any big issues with MDE's of any make but I just cant get sold on them.

I wouldnt.. Mine has been a dud in the build quality and there are several other on here having transmission problems and Ford not knowing how to fix em. This engine/tranny combo just hasnt been around long enough for them to work out the bugs I suppose. If I could, Id move on.

Thanks for the update. Ill be dropping mine off at my incompetent dealership Monday. Hopefully this will fix my problem. Mine is lurching a little when accelerating but not that bad. Mines more like its just waiting a half second from pressing the gas to actually engage. I was installing some stereo gear in mine the other day and so I had the battery unhooked for several hours. When I took off the next morning, it was nearly 2 days before the clunking re-appeared. Maybe I was unconsciously babying the throttle or something but this made me think it is a computer issue and having the battery unhooked for that long reset the computer to the default settings. That kinda makes sense cause this thing drove just fine for the first 4-5 days I had it.

Any news on how this worked out Wolfie?

I hope not. Mine is a 2 wheel drive and I got all excited when I read this. I was hoping this was a tranny issue theyd identified.

I know its different in each state and Im definitely not a legal expert but I believe here in Tennessee it has to be something affecting the safety or reliability of the car. I think the exact quote was "substantially impair the vehicle". Im not sure if this sunroof problem would qualify. Thats why I wouldnt pursue it in my case because while its irritating the crap out of me but it doesnt affect the drive of the car itself. Hopefully its different in the OP's state.

Pioneer has always seemed to make good speakers. Even though theyre primarily thought of as a head unit manufacturer, I always thought their speakers were their best part. Their line of SPL subwoofers are among the best in the world. In fact, as far as I know, Pioneer subs hold the world SPL record with a 180.3 I believe! Thats just insane!! So yeah, those Pioneers should work just fine.

Yeah, Im not much of a craftsman so dont expect any cool fiberglass creations. Im gonna start off with the Polk SR tweeters for now. I started trying different brands and types of tweeters last year cause the Polks are awfully directional and I was having a hard time getting them to image that well. The Edge is so wide inside, I was thinking of trying to mount them in the corner of the door where the A pillar meets the window. Theyd be firing to the opposite seat shoulder so they should perform pretty well. For amps Im using the Polk Audio PA500.4 (90x4) and the PA1200.1 (1200x1). I bi-amp the speakers so the amps rear channels will power the mids and the front channels will power the tweeters all running thru my Alpine H700 processor. For subs I used a Polk SR 12" sub last 2 seasons but am going with Polk's MM 10's this year. Ill buy a basic premade box for dual 10's and push them up against the back seat. I would normally integrate the subs into the interior a little more but we bought a SUV for more room for baby strollers and stuff so I want a box I can unplug and remove whenever we need the room. Ive run up on a snag cause the A pillars have no flat surface at all to mount a tweeter to. This isnt a problem to anybody that can fabricate stuff but Im a total loser in this department and rely totally on the mounting cups and brackets that come with speakers and with no flat surface, theres really no easy place to mount them. Ive got a couple ideas on some stuff tho but before I go cutting 2" holes in my new $30,000 car, Im gonna do some planning and thinking.

So I finally got around to tearing into my new Edge and working on my system. Im a very active sound quality competitor in MECA (Mobile Electronics Competition Association) and so I gotta get going on this cause finals is in October and I havent been to a single show this season. I compete in the Street class which uses stock speaker locations so I dont have to come up with anything really fancy. I do this because (A) Im a lousy installer and craftsman and ( this being our main car for trips and baby stuff, I cant be giving up a lot of room for custom amp racks, sub enclosures and kick panels and such......and theres this whole lazy thing about me that likes just dropping speakers into existing holes. I use Polk Audio gear and have since I started competing back in 2006. Dollar for dollar, theyre about the best speakers on the market and theyve served me pretty well over the years. Im using the Signature Reference 5250 speakers which is a 5.25" mid cause the 6.5's wont fit, plus with the plastic door panel, I dont want to put too much stress on it. First off I slapped in my trusty Alpine 9861. First thing is to pop out the little storage tray on top then the inner trim panel pops out. Id start at the top cause those are simple poppers but down towards the bottom of the HVAC controls, theyre wedged in there pretty good so youll have to use some force but be careful. Next youll have to pull the trim piece out that contains the vents and covers the CD player. First unscrew the one bolt where the storage tray was. Its a 10mm. Then just pull this trim panel off - its fastened by poppers. From here its stupid simple. Unscrew the 4 bolts holding the OEM head unit in place, use the mounting adapter kit you bought and stick the aftermarket head unit back in. Its a drop in fit. Then just pop all the trim panels back in place and youre done. Running the optical and Ai-Net cables was super easy. The area behind the CD player is cavernous so you can literally reach your arm in there and fish the cables down and drop them out right under the glove compartment. Running the amp's power wire took the most time. I didnt get any pictures cause it was getting late and I was getting pissed. Under the dash, there is a wad of wires going thru a big rubber grommet. Poke a hole in this and fish the end of the power wire OUT into the engine compartment. Now the fun part, remove the battery and battery tray so you can reach the power wire and pull it out. After you route it and mount your fuse holder, install the battery and tray. I ran it under the trim carpet along the side of the drivers side and back to the cargo area. I havent decided yet how Im gonna mount my amps so its just hanging out there for now. If youre using 8 gauge wire itll be a lot easier to get it under all the trim panels but since I was using 1/0 gauge, its a real bitch. Today I got the door speakers installed. It was relatively easy to get the door panels off - 8 screws (2 on each side and bottom then one behind door hendls and one in arm rest) then it just pops off. The panel itself is the worst panel Ive ever seen for car audio. F-ing plastic!!! This thing is gonna resonate and vibrate like a bitch! On top of that, the stock speaker wire goes in a little groove instead of behind the speaker. This lets soundwaves from the back of the speaker cone to come around to the front and can mess up the sound a bit. Dynamat is the greatest invention ever. I used 2 layers in and around the speaker opening in an attempt to strengthen it up. Eventually there will be 2 layers covering the entire door panel but this stuff is expensive so I always do it a little at a time. When I got some spare cash, Ill got by a sheet or two and slap it on there. But for now, this will do for a start. I cut some adapters out of 1/4" MDF and covered them from and back with a layer of Dynamat. And here is the final product. My beloved SR5250 mid securely mounted. Thats all Ive got for now. Tomorrow Im going to figure out my amps and where Im gonna stick them. Im thinking of putting my EQ under the back seat and the amps just behind the back seat in front of the spare tire. Not sure tho. Ill post back when I figure it out. Then all Ill have left to do is run speaker wire from my amps and figure out where/how Im gonna mount my tweeters.

Thats very nice and exactly what Im after. Is that an aftermarket enclosure like a Qform or did you build that yourself?

Depends on the quality you want. If you want a simple set of drop in replacements, look for some good 6x8's. If you want the highest quality sound and dont mind doing a little installing, get a set of 5.25" components so you can mount the tweeter in a better spot.