ThinLine

Now it's down to the yokohama avid envigor or the Toyo Versado CUV. Thanks for the reply ! I was also considering the Cooper discoverer CTS but I read some reviews and learned they have poor rolling resistance.

I am extremely mechanically inclined and work on all of my own cars.......but for the life of me.....I cannot figure out how to remove the damn "snorkel" from the bottom side of the air filter housing ! I do not want to break it so that I can re-install it if need be. Thanks !

MSRP: $46,999.00

Had the ptu leak around 10,000 miles.....the tech who was 19 years old installed the new seals. I'm at 50,000 miles now and have been leak free. What your going through is complete and utter bullshit. How could a wet behind the ears tech complete the seal install procedure and a field tech who specializes in difficult repairs not. Blows my mind. Good luck to you.

It's under the drivers seat. You have to remove the seat and turn upside down. You then need the decoder wand from a box of lucky charms to decipher the code.

Get some ozium in a spray can. Take out the cabin air filter and turn heat on. Spray ozium where you removed the cabin air filter....(behind the glove box) and replace cabin air filter. They make cabin air filters that have baking soda in them now....usually stocked at wally world. This will make the smell disappear.

Until the warranty runs out.......

I have the same ticking noise when cold on my '08 Limited. This is the sound of the fuel injectors opening and closing. It has nothing to do with oil pressure. A car takes a matter of seconds to fully lubricate the over-head cams. Fords have been making this ticking noise at start-up for years. My 2001 mustang GT makes the exact same noise during warm-up and it has a completely different engine but the same ford designed fuel injectors. I use fuel system cleaner every oil change and finally decided to give lucas upper cylinder lubricant and fuel injector cleaner a try. Car still had ticking noise but it was much quieter and went away much quicker....proving that the noise has nothing to do with the lubricity of the motor or viscosity of the oil. BTW, when switched from Mobil 1 to pennzoil ultra synthetic, I picked up a soild mpg......computer calculations.

My service advisor wouldn't even look up the tsb when we told him initially. He only ordered the wheel hub ass. Since I tend to get a little irate, my savvy wife handled the advisor when they called and told her the hub ass. Was in. She went in and told the advisor.....playing dumb mind you, that since this was the second time the bearing went out that maybe something else is wrong. He said have a seat and I'll look into it. An hour later he told her "you know what, there is a TSB on this issue and we have to order another part." Which we told him at initial visit. Wife said that she knew how to handle him by making it seem that it was his idea and he really thought it was. You would think that helping them by giving the tsb number would help out. They obviously hate having a tsb number waved in their face because I know for a fact that lack of a better term here, thse guys take classes on how to be smug assholes when dealing with warranty repairs. If we brought the car in after warranty for a wheel bearing, they would replace every part of the rear suspension. Unfortunately, you will have a difficult time getting the link replaced since they have closed out the work order with ford and in their eyes your problem is repaired. The bad links were machined wrong causing the hub ass. To sit at an angle causing premature bearing failure. Ask to see the bearing and the wear pattern. Any decent mechanic would obviously know the difference between just a faulty bearing or that something caused the obvious wear pattern on the bearing races. Good luck.

TSB states to have the link assembly replaced and wheel hub assembly. It will go out again if they didn't replace the link. I just had this done.

Well put justdafax. I think dikor just had to vent. If Ford gets all the bugs out of this system, it will be the most cutting edge technology on the road. There is a reason my pops told me to NEVER buy the first year vehicle of a new model/technology.

Why don't you just design and build a car yourself that way it would be 100% defect free and last a million miles woth nothing breaking. Also, if something were to break, the only person to blame would be you.

Consider yourself lucky if all you have is those minor issues.

The sport looks badass......however, I do prefer the chrome grille over the black. Happy hunting.

Just order it. You should never compromise on the purchase of a new vehicle.

Where did you get those and how much did you pay ? Really sets off the chrome handles......nice !

Make sure after washing your vehicle you apply a nice coat of wax on the "plastichrome". I have had no discoloration issues and I have 49,000 on my '08. At least it was replaced under warranty.......now the best thing you can do is take care of it.

They look like chromed stock sel rims. I do like the look. Can't go wrong with chrome. I love vapor silver but wife did not.....so we compromised.....and got blazing copper !

It's actually 445 horse which is underated by about 20 horses. If you think about it...not only is the cobra supercharged but it has a 5.4 liter which makes only 100 more horses than a naturally aspirated 5.0. Don't get me wrong....cobra is king and carroll shelby is a god.....hell, my wife is pregnant and if it's a girl her name is going to be Shelby ! 5he cobra is a much heavier vehicle and I suspect 1/4 mile times will be very similar. However, on the twistys the boss will leave the cobra in the dust. Just something to think about.

Thanks akirb.....it is a messy job...I disconnected the line running to my aftermarket trans cooler on my mustang and put the bucket under the wrong line (the return line) and started car....hahaha the force of the fluid spurting out shot out about 5 feet from where the bucket was ! Sounds like this may be a bite the bullet job and have ford do it. Thanks again.

I agree akirb, 60,000 seems like a good number to change the trans fluid. I heard that it is better to just drain and refill and not to do a "flush". Is there any truth to this. I will be changing mine @ 60,000 and was wondering how to actually drain the fluid. Does the pan have a drain plug or do you have to disconnect a trans line running to the radiator and start the car?

Ford can't even fix a sliding loose seat.......that is oh so sad.

Looks like a $500 oil and air filter change ...!!!! Everything else is "inspect" which should be done with the free multi-point inspection. BTW. The manual states that the Edge has a lifetime fuel filter and the trans fluid is good for 150,000 miles. Also, 9.5 ford mechanics out of 10 actually inspect any of those things on the list....they just check it off on the paper work. It is sad, but these days, the mechanics greatest tool is the pen.

I suggest new tires.