HackerF15E

How's that supposed to work? If you put the jack on the jack point, the stand is a good 6 inches away from the actual jack point. If you try and jack at a point away from the arrow, you end up bending the pinch weld seam.

I'd love to hear how this turned out for you -- I'm looking to make the same type of swap.

Anyone also replace their coils while they had the intake off and were doing the plugs?

How did this issue turn out, CoastGuardian?

I've gotten 65K on the OEM Latitude Tour HPs on my 2008, driven a mix of city and highway, almost all in the plains states in all seasons. They could go even more, as they pass the "Lincoln penny" test, but are starting to get squirrely in the rain.

When you do this, would you be so kind as to take photos and post your lessons learned?

Thanks for the update!

Yep, that'd work too.

Here's the schematic of the cooler system; I'm not sure which is the supply line and which is the return line, I don't have my Edge in front of me to check. In the shop manual, the line on the driver's side (right side of the cooler in this picture) is labeled as the "return tube", and the line on the passenger side (left side in this pic) is labeled the "outlet tube". Not sure how to decipher that, as they both sound like the flow is out, heheh.

In my opinion, it is better to use the technique in the video. All the other thread recommends is a series of drain-and-fills, with starting the car up and running it through the gears (to circulate the fluid) between drain-and-fills. There's certainly nothing wrong with that, but IMHO it wastes ATF and is not as "clean" of a changeover. Essentially it is repeatedly diluting dirty fluid with clean fluid, with the overall solution getting less and less dirty every time new fluid is added. By disconnecting the lines to the cooler, you are mixing a lot less of the "old" and "new" ATF (because the "old" fluid is not returning into the system at all), and that makes it a cleaner change with comparatively less fluid. Think about it...how many times do you have to dilute a glass of muddy water to make it clean? The reality is, though, that any replacement of fluid with clean fluid will help. Both techniques will work, it is just a question of how clean and how much fluid it takes.

Realize that a "drain and fill" on an automatic transmission does NOT change all of the fluid. In fact, the majority of the fluid in an AT is up in the torque converter and other locations that don't drain when you just take out the drain plug. So, you have to un-do the line going to the transmission cooler (in front of the bottom of the radiator), then little-by-little start the car, drain a little fluid from that line, then stop the car, and put fresh fluid in the filler tube. Keep doing this until the fluid coming out that hose is clean and red. Then reconnect the hoses, start it up and shift through all the gears, then top off the ATF level. Watch this video -- which is a Honda Accord, but the concept is exactly the same -- and adapt the procedure to the Edge. This has worked for every other Auto Trans vehicle I've owned. I haven't done it on the Edge, but I'm going to soon. I'll take photos and document the adventure when I can.

The way that car electronics are going, aftermarket radios and nav systems will make you want to change your MFT here in a few years. I have a 2008 and was impressed with Sync when it originally came out. Today that Sync is pretty outdated (and is no longer being updated/supported by Ford), and I can buy a much better radio from the aftermarket for not really all that much $$.

On my other vehicles, I've had to run the car with the heater on to help access all of the coolant running through the engine block. Is that maybe the source of the "missing" coolant?

Recommend you do some reading about TB spacers before you actually drop the money to buy one. In general they don't do anything.

Thanks for that attachment.