kempie

I found the info in the "locks & security" section of the manual. Look for "parimeter lamps illuminated entry". There is a procedure for deactivating. Pg. 120 in my manual.

Are you sure its the Ford seat or the Taco Bell food you have been eating? This is probably the wrong area of the forum for you to get an answer to your question. Ask the Mods to move your post or repost in the general info area.

When I got my HID kit I changed the "Lights on at unlock" so just the interior lights come on. I dont know if this would make any difference with your veh. I did it so that the HID would last longer as I was under the impression that the start up of the HID is what wears out the ballasts. I do have the harness w/a round thing on it (could be a capacitor) and 2 of the LED type resistors. Sorry I dont know more but it's what the Retro people sent for my 35W HID kit. I have had no problems and am very pleased w/the lights.

Looks like the size is real close. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

I checked out Ebay for these handle covers and there are $60 covers and $110 covers. Anyone know the difference? Any experiance? Thanks for any info.

I have used Coopers as replacement tires for the last 10+ years and have been very pleased with the performance of the tires. No problems. Always bought the best tire they had at the time. 24K on the Contes so far and will probably replace them next year w/Coopers.

They have been around for awhile and I have never read of anyone being happy with it except the mfg. It was big news a number of years ago on a 240Z site and then really faded after some folks tried it. Save your $.

Brightness = distance in vision. Headlight adjustment can help and most dealers dont do it as well as it could be done. At 25' back , on level ground your "hot spot" should be 2" lower than the height of the "hot spot" when you are right up close to the wall. Use a piece of tape to mark the spot on the wall when you are close to it and measure & adjust your lights at the 25' mark from the wall. Sylvania Silverstars actually produce less light than regular bulbs but it is a different color that seems brighter in some conditions. Personally , I like the SilverStars as they seem to create more "contrast" except in dark rainy conditions.

Get a rack for the top and put the spare up there.

Ummm, whats the difference between pushing the button to lower the temp to 63 (if you could) and pushing the fan button.

I am on another Ford forum for Explorers/Mountaineers and a number of folks on the forum wanted these struts from Redline. Redline needed a veh. to fit them to and since I an only 2 hrs. away and it ment free struts I gladly volunteered. The guys at Redline are real car guys and both are Ford drivers & enthusiasts. They measured and tried a few of their many struts to find the correct one that would open the hood and hold it in the correct position. Then the pics for the installation directions. Four holes per side to drill and simple pop rivets to hold the brackets in place. Being in the MI cold weather does not seem to be a problem. I definitely would recommend Redline and have just ordered a set for my MKX. Had trouble uploading the pics so here is a link. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showth...ght=hood+struts

I have been on a Ford Explorer forum for many years as I have a Mountaineer. There is a long post there about the six speed trans and what has been done by the dealers to cure some of these same issues. I dont know how similar these trans are but I hope this info may help. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=199183

Looks like your dash is pretty shiny. A good protectorant that can be dulled by a damp wipe after its applied is 303 Areospace. I will admit that a shiny dash looks better; so long as your not seeing it in a reflection.

I understood that the OD band on the old 4 speed trans was thinner than the other bands for the other gears. So towing in OD would cause more wear and heat. Especially when the trans was downshifting out of OD frequently Heat is one of the biggest killers of trans. So, noticing how often the six speed downshifts on inclines with only a few people as a load I really think, were it me, that I wouldnt use OD. Note that I know little about the six speed but how different can it be? Generally 60% or so of the load of a trailer should be on the tongue. If the trailer sways side to side move the weight forward. If the trailer bounces move the weight back.

Not sure about the 6 speed trans but w/the old 4 speed it was always a good idea to keep the overdrive off when towing. Just my 2 cents worth....

As mentioned I applied a liberal amount of dielectric grease in the scotch lock connectors(slc) and securely taped them. The slc are not severly exposed to the weather and have lasted, in the same application on my Cad. for 5 yrs. or so. However, Yes, solder is better. I'll let you know when they or the Cad.s fail.

And I thought.....Wow....the MKT is......a great looking car. Just shows to go ya.

First I removed the screws holding the wheel well cover in place.(you need to get your hand in there.) Then I used a coat hanger with a wire taped to it and pushed it down along the fender to the marker light area. After removing the marker light I found that there was not enough wire attached to the marker light to work with so I cut the marker light off and got a generic replacement (which had to be trimmed a little). I pushed the OEM wires & new marker light wires out the back hole in the holder and connected the Positive + to the + OEM wire and the negative - to the wire I had pushed down. Replaced the marker light & assembly and connected the new ground wire to the blinker wire. Did the same thing in the front. The markers are easy to get to after getting behind the wheel well cover and there is plenty of wire. I used a dremel to drill a hole in the bottom of the headlight housing to route the wire from the turn signal bulb wire to the marker light.(a dab of silicone seal on the hole once the wire has been connected seals the hole). Those headlight housings are a PIA to get your hand in to change bulbs ect. I liberally filled the scotch lock connectors w/dielectric grease to reduce any corrosion and taped them with good elect. tape. Other connections were heat shrinked & taped. Now, as to how they work. The fronts are just as described. Markers blink w/turn signals when headlights are off and alternate with turn signals when headlights are on. Rears do the same but, they also come on when the brake lights come on and the headlights are off. Then when the headlights are on and the brake lights are on the markers go off. So with headlights on and brakes on and L turn signal on the R marker will be out and the L marker will be blinking. Too bad we have the same bulb for turn signal and brakes but thats the way it is. As to why to do this? Because you can.

Got this idea from here: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/ma...arkerflash.html a couple of years ago and did it w/the Cad I had then. The MKX seemed a perfect candidate for this mod. So, when installing the HIDs from RetroSolutions,(last Sun.) I did the front markers. Did the rears tonight and am very pleased with the results. I will post some pics of the installation and comments after work tomorrow. (Too late tonight in MI.) Later, Bill

Looks good to me. :shades:

Yes, you can still use the rubber plates. The wire is on the higher lip on the front holder and there is a lip on the smaller holder, that is above the area the rubber sits, that holds the wire. Fully functional.

I replaced the power point in the dash with a lighted lighter. Used the power point wires for the lighter and wired the light to the Blue wire in the console. Then got a $10 EL type wire kit and super glued it in the cupholder. Used silicone to fill the hole where the wire exits the cupholder & cut the wire to size. Then misted the wire & cupholder with duplicolor spray paint (silver) so the blue wire wouldnt be so visible in the daylight. Connected the EL wire controller to the Blue light power wire and to the Black ground wire for the lighter.

I got some and put them in a couple of weeks ago. I am real happy with the looks and function. As usual I didnt follow the directions as well as I should have. They say that after you install the visors you should leafe the windows in the full up position for a day or so. I didnt, and the express up power window function noticed the visors and reversed the window to going down. Now, after leaving the windows up for a weekend, the windows operate smoothly.

Thanks Lex. I was adding a lighted cig. lighter and some EL wire in the cup holders. $200+ is a little--lot much for me for some lighting. $20. covered this mod. Plus about another $50 worth of humiliation and frustration for not realizing the dimmer wheel was in the dimmed position.

First off, let me say I'm glad to have found this forum and learned a lot so far about my new (to me) MKX. I am attempting to add some additional interior lights that would be controlled by the headlight switch & dimmer wheel. I want to add some light to the cupholders. I cant seem to find a good 12 volt source. What I have found in the console area just barely lights a test light bulb. So, less than 12 V. Makes me wonder if the interior/dash lights are all low voltage type lights. Any help or guesses are appreciated. Sun. 7th. Just went out to try something and I found I had the dimming wheel turned to LOW. What was I thinking??? Oh well, alls fine now.