joshudr

Hey, I know this is an old post, but I wanted to add some information to it that may help someone else. I did this job about 6 months ago, and I'm just now getting to posting. Thanks to the OP and a few other things I was able to find online, I was able to successfully replace the heater core on my daughter's 2007 Ford Edge. Everything went really well until the very end. I could not get any of the heater door actuators to work. The car was stuck blowing across the heater core and was stuck blowing on my feet. I tried EVERYTHING that I read online! I unplugged the battery for various lengths of time; I pulled fuses; I unplugged and re-plugged every electrical connection under the dash that I could reach. I even replaced the EATC module with one I bought off of Ebay. Nothing worked. To make matters worse, when I ran the EATC module on-demand self test I got response codes that I could not identify. Some of the codes that I received were A2-69, A2-6c, A2-6d, A2-6e. The continuous DTCs that I retrieved were A2-69 and C1-40. I tried clearing the codes and re-reading them. At some point, I started getting the codes A9-56 (or 5b), A9-5d, A9-5f, and the codes that I had earlier. I spent hours searching the internet and message boards trying to figure out what these codes meant, and I never had any luck identifying what they meant. So, I gave up and took the car to a mechanic. He connected it to his computer and quickly identified a short-to-ground. Next he somehow determined that I had switched the electrical plugs to the two actuators on the passenger side. He switched them and was able to do so with the glove-box removed and that fixed the problem. I felt stupid for making such an obvious mistake, and he shared my frustration that the electrical connections are even able to be switched like that. Anyway, I think he charged me $80, and I'm out $40 for a EATC that I didn't need. Overall, I'm happy we got it done. There was a few times when I wondered what I had gotten myself into - most people don't believe me that I had to remove the engine intake manifold, the front seats, the center console, and the entire dash. Seriously Ford??? Now I just have to hope that I don't ever need to replace the water pump. Heard you have to drop the engine to do that. TLDR - If none of the actuator door motors are working and you're getting strange codes from the EATC self test, you might have switched two of the actuator motor plugs.