Bunky

This does show up against my hybrid so must be non hybrid models

@1004ron My comment was why wait until 2Q25 to push out a supposedly major safety issue fix OTA when the fix is available from the dealer now? They tout the OTA method but so far no fixed has been pushed out at the same time when provided to dealers. The only OTA fix I got was back last June for a google update. I have had all these dealer applied. 24P08 - Driver camera battery drain 24P14 - VDM update for battert drain 24P22B - ABS batterty drain 24B54 - APIM, GWM, TCU software (infotainment and more) 24C24B window force recall Personally, I rarely use the windows so I will wait until my next visit (maybe late March). My dealer is a good 40 minutes away outside rush hour times so just do not drop by.

Why not do OTA now and supposedly save warranty costs and customer inconvenience to bring it in? Are they using the tech's as guinea pigs to b sure there are no update issues? Or do dealers want them to come in to upsell other services too>

My phone app reports the fix is available OTA but who knows when they will push out.

I directed messaged you since I like when you start the thread and add supplemental information.

Wow a lot of information. Thanks.

i believe now DCDC only deals with the battery. The powering up of everything is handled by a command from BCM to BCMC that has a relay that likely converts from 12v battery operation to HV battery dc to dc conversion if you push the start button (with or without brake pressed) but still seems to support HV battery is powering vehicle in "ON" (without pressing brake). It stated the DCDC controls voltage from 12v to 15v and my readings support. I cannot believe the system would step up the voltage to 13V from the 12V battery. I am on a journey.

I have an occassional noise but it sounds more like metal to metal and keep thinking it is corrosion. I watched the video and mine does not sound like that. I P.S. I looked at the rotors and they are truly a disc and not the wider dics with that webbing between the outsides.

I did this test. Voltmeter inserted in center console 12v port Vehicle off 12.4V Vehicle on without pressing brake 13.1V Vehicle on 15.2V One thought it is 13.1V is hv battery via dcdc. The 15.2v definitely means it is charging 12v battery but likely near full charge given high voltage, noco says 14.8 v is best for agm.

Much to understand but i like the comment that the dcdc can output 260 A to 12V battery yet we have all these battery fails. It could jump ot anytime at least once. I still cannot tell if dcdc is powering everything in Accessory Mode like it is when running. Power is available but at some point it could be drained too. In this case the HV can act like an alternator even in Accessory mode.

I am a Nauti Hybrid owner. I read the document and interesting that if you try to turn off vehicle while moving at 9 mph you have to press and hold or push 3 times. I am not sure what situation would need this (unintended acceleration?) but no driver would know this since I do not think this is in the owners manual. But, repeatedly pushing does sound like something one may try when desparate. The owner's manual calls the ON condition (not with brake applied) as "accessory" and in the vehicle it calls it "Full Accessory Mode" and brielfy displayed briefly on 48 in display. I assume the word "full" is to emphasize the HVAC and other aspects are still active since I am sure it is a huge drain on battery. My question is when in this mode what aspects are powered by 12V battery and what is powered by HV battery? Funny there is no option to get residual charge in HV to jump start the 12V battery. I guess it could be abused and damage the HV battery.

My question was regarding getting to accessory mode since we do not have a key to put in ignition.

In the instructions, I assume for my 24 Nautilus Hybrid, I just push start button without pushing the brake so it is in full accessory mode.

They kicked the can another quarter.

Thanks for update. How on earth do they think the OTA is possible when you look at all the conditions (SOC, battery voltage, profile mode, etc)? If OTA was so much better, why not do it that way at the dealer? They should be able to force an update through secret commands. I watched a tech try to do it mobile and it looked primitive. = downloaded to tool, build USB key, then insert in car USB and then start update. In my case, it failed to recogize the key and the tech stopped. I considered that as a blessing. He was able to get window fix and the GWN done but balked on the APIM. I have noticed it takes MINUTES for the vehicle to recognize a USB key (like a music USB),