Tim W. AZ

Could/should this be a prevention service measure, or only recommended when there's a oil tube or turbo failure?

A couple of weeks ago, I traded my 2016 and purchased a Blue Oval Gold Certified, 2020 Titanium with 44,000 miles and the dealership tried to sell me a 6/100,000 for $2400. I was already considering a warranty but passed on that one. I found a 8/100,000 for $1400 from Zeigler Ford. So I'm covered until 2/15/29, just about the time I'll be ready to buy again. Despite the mileage, I was able to get the Ford warranty because the car was Gold Certified. If you purchase a Ford warranty it's always based from the original sale date, or mileage. I believe the companies you see Ice-T and others hawking have different coverage period plans.

What was the malfunction to make you have to change the part?

I changed the headlights on my old 2016 and the first time I saw them in the dark they were way off kilter. It turns out it is a pain to get the socket lined up in the slots and turned in properly, and if they're off just a little bit it throws the beam off a lot. I guess what I'm saying is check the socket alignment.

Ford parts is a good place to start. I was converting my rear license plate to four screws and after a few search queries found the "rear license plate bolt." I've also ordered rubber door bumpers and a front Ford name badge for decorative purposes from the site.

I just upgraded from a 2016 to a 2020 Titanium, FWD and I experience the same issue. I live in the Phoenix area so it's always warm, so it clears up pretty quickly. I thought it was because of quick shifting from the lower gears, thats how quickly it clears up.

If you have to lower or remove the adjustable rubber stops, put a small spot of grease on the tops to determine the proper height. Start low and adjust higher and when it leaves a small amount of grease on the underside of the hood, you're good.

When I got new tires on my 2016, the shop wouldn't install the old lugs saying too many were too damaged. Now I have a 2020 and wondering if Ford has replaced the chrome cap style lugs. (I suppose I could walk out to the garage and look for myself, but I'm doing this right now.)

I would go farther than just a hand held wire brush to get it to bare metal. There are different types of wheels for a drill or angle grinder. The best primer is an epoxy or urethane, but Rustoleum auto primer will work fine. I don't remember what it's called, but there are rust neutralizers you spread on, then prime. I wouldn't apply Flex Seal or Plasti-Dip until you prime, and I wouldn't use it at all, if not applied properly, it seems like a place where moisture could collect. I used to live in MN so I've been cleaning up rusty cars since the 70's when you could hear the rust forming. I now live in AZ so its dried out components that are the problem. Good luck and keep us posted.

That rocker panel rust looks like it will be pitted when removed, but not all the way through. The key will be getting it down to clean metal and keeping it clean and dry until primed. I wouldn't worry about under the car, it's the sheet metal that will go first. Good luck.