Tim W. AZ

I was a little disappointed that my 2020 didn't have the dual opening center arm rest like my 2016.

When I started driving in 71, they used to sell re-refined oil at the Hudson station by my house. My first car after my mom's 68 Bonneville convertible, (the girls loved that car) was a 67 Riviera with a 430cu in and it hauled ass. It did great burnouts and I won a few races in that car. I had a Dynamic 88 and a Datsun 210 wagon that rusted beyond safe and when I drove it to the junk yard, I had to used a metal post to stop. The body slid forward a few inches it was rusted so bad. I bought my brother in laws 78, three on the tree, Maverick and have owned Fords pretty much ever since, other than one Buick. To blow out carbon, we would hit the freeway northbound and run at 100 mph or so. Ah..., the reckless old days.

When I was signing the paperwork, the paper pusher asked me about insurance and said to tell them the car has Lojack. I thought, cool... I guess. I was looking more closely at the paperwork a few days later and noticed that I payed for Lojack, it wasn't included. I got an email to activate and chose not to because I didn't want to have my speed and location monitored. Hopefully, it isn't active until I jump through the hoops.

The torque is that high because steel (lugs) and aluminum (wheels) don't grip each other because of dissimilar metals.

Resurrecting an old thread. When I took possession of my recent 2020 purchase, on the first day home I checked the spare and it was at 16psi. I had to return to the dealership the next day and mentioned it to my salesman and he said oh, I guess it hasn't been used in a while. Well it's never been used. Filled it to 58 (to account for Phoenix summer heat) checked it today and it's holding firm. I also carry a portable inflator.

Thanks for the tips. I use Motorcraft Semi-Syn and change oil at about 6-7K. I take a couple of road trips in spring and summer and typically change after those. I'm retired so I don't drive a lot, but I live in the Phoenix area and do errands early in the day in summer. I will use the run down practice in summer. As far as the thermostat, I've learned the hard way that, if it ain't broke...

Changing brake fluid at 3 years or 30,000 miles. I was a little surprised when I read that in the maintenance schedule. I checked with the dealership that has serviced the vehicle since new (where I bought it) and the service has not been performed, so I'm taking mine in today at a little over 3 years and 44,000 miles. It would be nice if they didn't charge me since it wasn't done prior to resale on a Gold Certified used car. We'll see.

After reading several battery related topics, I found my old Scan Gage and plugged it in. The last time it was used was in 2012 with my C-Max Energi. Anyway, it indicated I was at 14.6v so I feel good... for now. The AZ desert it tough on batteries.

I'm a little concerned about the turbo when we get to 75K+ miles and I'm willing to have or do any preventive maintenance to extend life. I guess I'll just hang on for the ride until that day possibly arrives. Thanks for your excellent posts.

I dusted it off, cleaned the glass, blew out the engine compartment and applied silicon spray to the rubber door and hood gaskets. I started siliconing the rubber when I lived in Minnesota so the doors wouldn't freeze in winter, now I live in the desert so I do it to keep them from drying out.

Could/should this be a prevention service measure, or only recommended when there's a oil tube or turbo failure?

A couple of weeks ago, I traded my 2016 and purchased a Blue Oval Gold Certified, 2020 Titanium with 44,000 miles and the dealership tried to sell me a 6/100,000 for $2400. I was already considering a warranty but passed on that one. I found a 8/100,000 for $1400 from Zeigler Ford. So I'm covered until 2/15/29, just about the time I'll be ready to buy again. Despite the mileage, I was able to get the Ford warranty because the car was Gold Certified. If you purchase a Ford warranty it's always based from the original sale date, or mileage. I believe the companies you see Ice-T and others hawking have different coverage period plans.

What was the malfunction to make you have to change the part?

I changed the headlights on my old 2016 and the first time I saw them in the dark they were way off kilter. It turns out it is a pain to get the socket lined up in the slots and turned in properly, and if they're off just a little bit it throws the beam off a lot. I guess what I'm saying is check the socket alignment.

Ford parts is a good place to start. I was converting my rear license plate to four screws and after a few search queries found the "rear license plate bolt." I've also ordered rubber door bumpers and a front Ford name badge for decorative purposes from the site.

I just upgraded from a 2016 to a 2020 Titanium, FWD and I experience the same issue. I live in the Phoenix area so it's always warm, so it clears up pretty quickly. I thought it was because of quick shifting from the lower gears, thats how quickly it clears up.

If you have to lower or remove the adjustable rubber stops, put a small spot of grease on the tops to determine the proper height. Start low and adjust higher and when it leaves a small amount of grease on the underside of the hood, you're good.

When I got new tires on my 2016, the shop wouldn't install the old lugs saying too many were too damaged. Now I have a 2020 and wondering if Ford has replaced the chrome cap style lugs. (I suppose I could walk out to the garage and look for myself, but I'm doing this right now.)

I would go farther than just a hand held wire brush to get it to bare metal. There are different types of wheels for a drill or angle grinder. The best primer is an epoxy or urethane, but Rustoleum auto primer will work fine. I don't remember what it's called, but there are rust neutralizers you spread on, then prime. I wouldn't apply Flex Seal or Plasti-Dip until you prime, and I wouldn't use it at all, if not applied properly, it seems like a place where moisture could collect. I used to live in MN so I've been cleaning up rusty cars since the 70's when you could hear the rust forming. I now live in AZ so its dried out components that are the problem. Good luck and keep us posted.

That rocker panel rust looks like it will be pitted when removed, but not all the way through. The key will be getting it down to clean metal and keeping it clean and dry until primed. I wouldn't worry about under the car, it's the sheet metal that will go first. Good luck.