Tim W. AZ

Motorcraft oil is blended by Conoco Phillips, so it’s good oil. WyoEdge is right, as long as it meets Ford specs, it’s all good.

Blend, because that's what it's always had. I know you can safely switch to full syn, but I still believe in running the same oil, I'm old school that way. Every 7000 or so, drive to heat and drain for 30 minutes and fill with 5.4 qts. The 5.4 puts the level just below the max fill hole, so next time I'm going to check after 5 qts. I like it when the level is at the top of the cross hatching, no higher, no lower. And no, OCD has nothing to do with it.

Motorcraft 5-30 and a FL-910S filter.

Or total replacement because of the original defect, rather than backtracking the manufacturing process.

Ran a power wire to what?

On a 2020, scroll down on the left side steering wheel control, I can't imagine Ford would change that.

Now that it's summer, are you running the AC every time you drive? I went from 24-26 city to 21-22 with AC use, but I live in Phoenix. On a recent 2900 mile trip covering desert and mountain driving, my overall average was 31.1 mpg and I was pretty happy with that.

Or... is it still possible to find an engine in a junk yard? A new engine has to be close to 10 grand, I would think you could find one for a couple thousand and even with shipping and installation, save at least half. Even used is better than one with a leaky cylinder.

Take the battery out.

I returned home yesterday from a 2900 mile road trip with my brother. We started NW of Phoenix and drove to Grand Teton, Yellowstone, The Burr Trail and the Moki Dugway Scenic Byway (Valley of the Gods, in southern Utah.) The highest MPG I saw was 31.1 and the overall average was 29.9. We still used a lot of fuel. A wide variety of geography with rolling hills and a lot of mountain driving for 4 days. In the parks it was generally at 45-50 mph and 20-30 on the unpaved roads, but a couple of stretches the best we could do is 10-15 because of washboards. In Yellowstone it often slowed to a crawl and we sat for about a half hour a couple of times, once to let a Bison herd to pass in the opposite lane. The car ran great and adjusted nicely to the changing elevations. I found the adaptive cruise a little annoying because it reacted unevenly and jerky in certain situations. The lane centering worked well when there was less traffic. The Edge is a great road trip vehicle. Next trip from Phoenix to Minneapolis is in August and I plan to visit Monument Rocks in Kansas and Chimney Rock in Nebraska along the way.

Were there this many problems with the Nautilus when they were built at Oakville? Seems almost every day there's another service bulletin or manufacturing defect.

Once I retired, I stopped buying new because I can (or willing to) pay cash for a 4 year old, low mileage vehicle. When I moved to AZ in 18, I realized a higher profile was needed in a world of fast moving, high riding trucks and semi's, so I traded my 17 Fusion for a 16 Edge and never looked back. A couple of months ago I replaced my 16 SEL for a 2020 Titanium, then in 4-5 years, I'll update to a 2024, if there are any good ones available.

What does the transmission ID on the sticker on the lower B pillar state, 8 or F. F indicates it's the 8F57, 8 is the 8F35.

This is a fascinating thread. I would never take on a project this complex, these days, I'm more of an oil, filters, plugs and tires kind of guy. I may not be pulling transmissions on a 68 Dynamic 88 anymore, but I still like to know how stuff works and this thread was incredibly informative. I'm looking forward to a successful outcome.

Is it a rattle from inside the door, or two surfaces rubbing together? Try spraying a small amount of silicon spray at the arrow, tighten any accessible screws and push on the outer edge to secure the door panel pinch clips. Squeaks drive me nuts.

Not sure if this will help. https://www.ford.com/support/how-tos/sync/getting-started-with-sync/what-are-sync-4-and-sync-4a/ Check your build date, maybe the system upgrade is only on later built vehicles.

In the left side settings screen under vehicle - power liftgate - enable/disable you can disable it and when you kick your foot it unlocks, but doesn't raise.

The TCU module, that's what that is under the rear cover.

Opening the drivers door seems to "activate" and ready the vehicle. I'm no genius, but maybe the system recognizes that someone using the passenger or rear doors is not intending to drive the vehicle, so no need to "wake up" the entire system.

I have mine set to level 3. It's the vehicles that pull into that gap that cause it to over-react, but I try to anticipate the rapid slow down.

It's not in settings, it's on the left steering wheel controls.

Don't worry, since ceramic and wax sits on the surface, you haven't damaged the clear coat or paint, but you will need to remove the ceramic coating. I'd check online to see if there are proven techniques and solutions specific to removing ceramic coating. The best way I've found to remove old wax is to wash the car with Dawn or another detergent that breaks down grease, then clay bar the car, wash and apply wax or ceramic. If you want to do just the affected area, try a clay bar on a small area. Of course, never use Dawn to regularly wash the car. Good luck.

The same thing happened to be on my 2013 Fusion. It was on the inside so I just sanded it down and it was ok and not visible.

The sunshade won't break or sever a finger.