Tim W. AZ

Not all accidents make it on to the Carfax report. I'd be wary because last time I checked where I live, 2020's are still near 20K depending on mileage and I don't recall seeing one priced this low. Good luck.

Nice work, looks great.

In AZ the auto start/stop rarely works in summer because of the temps (learned of 140 degree battery temperature from Haz's post) and load demand, so I didn't notice that it wasn't working. As temps cooled (temporarily) and I was running with the windows down in the AM, I finally noticed it wasn't working. Batteries die fast here. You can park the car in the evening and the next morning, the battery is dead as a door nail and unable to take a charge. I decided I needed to be better prepared. I broke down and replaced my 'suck up battery fluid' tester with a decent digital battery tester. It read 60% SOC, Battery Good-Recharge, so I replaced the Craftsman charger I bought in high school 50 years ago with a new microprocessor controlled charger compatible with AWG batteries. I watched a video on charging and learned that if you want the vehicle to immediately recognize the change, don't attach the charger to the post, but connect it past the electronic sensor that sends battery info, on the negative terminal it's the bolt that sticks upward. I had to move the battery forward to get a good grip. It only charged to 80%, but I remember reading some where that that's the max it will charge, but don't remember why. Long story long, it's now working good, even a couple of times with the A/C on.

My pre-owned 2020 did not have an engine cover and when I inquired at the dealership, I was told that the cover and under hood insulation had been discontinued. My thought was that it was a financial decision by Ford, or it created a potential engine compartment excessive heat issue.

May I ask why you wish to remove the screen?

What year, what version? My 2020 SYNC 3 rear camera once went blue, but a restart cleared it up. Good luck.

I used to be a hippie, now I have bad hips.

I had a Fusion or a Focus that had it and I forget what it was called at the time, but does Ford still have rapid deceleration fuel cut off in their vehicles?

They can't flatly deny a warranty claim if you use Motorcraft fluid.

Is the lane keeping system activated? When the system detects multiple lane lines or on a curve with multiple exits, it can jerk the steering where it thinks it should go. Scared the crap out of me the first time it happened to me.

The 2020 manual specifies 5.5 qts., or 5 qts and 16 ounces, and that takes it slightly above the crosshatching, but well below the max fill level. As I posted earlier, 5 qts and 14 ounces takes it to the top of the crosshatching. The air filter has only 4 months and 4500 miles on it, so it was pretty clean to start with. I don't blow through the filter, I carefully separate the ribs and blow sideways, so I'm not too worried about blowing out the filter and the air box was clean of fine particles. I'm pretty comfortable with my process.

No

Oil and filter change after 4345 mi. with 57% remaining on OLM, blow out air filter, check fluid levels. 5 quarts and 14 ounces fills to the top of the cross hatching and 16 ounces puts it an acceptable amount above.

If a failure is ever a warranty issue or a manufacturing or design problem is why I use the manufacturer recommended oil. How long after the warranty expires is the part failing? If it’s at 200,000 miles it probably wasn’t the oil. But if it’s at 65,000 then Ford should be investigating what’s happening. Just pass it on to the buyer in a “vehicle fluid” charge. Ford doesn’t give away the 2 gallons of gas they put in the vehicle at the factory.

Definitely the full synthetic. It’s too bad Ford doesn’t make full synthetic standard equipment from the factory.

Motorcraft oil is blended by Conoco Phillips, so it’s good oil. WyoEdge is right, as long as it meets Ford specs, it’s all good.

Blend, because that's what it's always had. I know you can safely switch to full syn, but I still believe in running the same oil, I'm old school that way. Every 7000 or so, drive to heat and drain for 30 minutes and fill with 5.4 qts. The 5.4 puts the level just below the max fill hole, so next time I'm going to check after 5 qts. I like it when the level is at the top of the cross hatching, no higher, no lower. And no, OCD has nothing to do with it.

Motorcraft 5-30 and a FL-910S filter.

Or total replacement because of the original defect, rather than backtracking the manufacturing process.

Ran a power wire to what?

On a 2020, scroll down on the left side steering wheel control, I can't imagine Ford would change that.

Now that it's summer, are you running the AC every time you drive? I went from 24-26 city to 21-22 with AC use, but I live in Phoenix. On a recent 2900 mile trip covering desert and mountain driving, my overall average was 31.1 mpg and I was pretty happy with that.

Or... is it still possible to find an engine in a junk yard? A new engine has to be close to 10 grand, I would think you could find one for a couple thousand and even with shipping and installation, save at least half. Even used is better than one with a leaky cylinder.

Take the battery out.