Wubster100

One good observation: The vehicle looks to be already wired for the trailer tow module.

The only possible issues I found was some corrosion in the rear bumper connector, so I avoided the corrosion by moving the parking sensors up into trunk. I don’t see any hardware issues with the wiring or parking sensors, so maybe there is some kind of software problem.

Yes, that’s exactly it. Taped on all 8 new sensors. Everything worked. Next, I installed the 6 sensors in the front, and everything worked. Now, I am trying to figure out what the problem is with these last 2 sensors.

I put my ear up to all 12 parking sensors, and they are all making the “clicking” noise. The only problem is that the 2 rear side sensors still don’t work because there is no audible beep from them.

Everything seems to be connected fine, and I don't have any DTCs, yet the 2 rear side parking sensors are still not working. So, I decided to do more testing. If I short the left rear side sensor to power, I get DTC B13F3:12. If I short the right rear side sensor to power, I get DTC B13F4:12. If I short the left rear side sensor to ground, I get DTC B13F3:14. If I short the right rear side sensor to ground, I get DTC B13F4:14. If I disconnect the left rear side sensor to ground, I get DTC B13F3:14. If I disconnect the right rear side sensor to ground, I get DTC B13F4:14. Clearly the DTCs seem to be working correctly if there were to be a fault in the wiring.

I have also looked for live data from the PAM. I am able to see the distance reading in cm for the 8 front + rear sensors. I am able to see the distance reading in mm of the front side sensors. However, a reading for the rear side sensors doesn’t seem to exist at all. There is no ID value to get a distance reading from the PAM.

I do see some corrosion in the connections underneath the vehicle. However, all 10 of the other parking sensors are working. There should be no problems with the parking sensors themselves, because they used to work previously, and I have swapped them out with the ones in the rear to test. So, now I have removed the cargo trim panel to access the wiring. I have connected the parking sensors directly to the wiring. I also got code B13F4 - Right Rear Side Sensor - :14 Circuit Short to Ground or Open. At least I see that something is happening. I reset the DTC and it isn’t coming back. I am still in the same situation with no DTCs, and the rear side sensors still don’t have any signs of working.

I should clarify that even after restarting the modules, the parking sensors still didn’t work. Only the 10 other sensors work fine. I mean that “reset the system” = “rebooted the modules”

I don’t own a 2007 MKX, but I borrowed it for a while. It has somewhere around 200k miles and is about 17 years old, so I would assume that the shocks and struts were probably replaced at least once? For my 2021? I feel like my 2021 SEL is more stiff, and the 2007 MKX is more soft and smooth like floating in a boat. I enjoyed the MKX suspension better.

Can you please post the wiring diagrams where C438 goes up into the vehicle? It looks like the wires go up toward the trailer tow module. Edit: never mind, I found it.

I am thinking so too. I will have to double check the wiring again. Yes, all 10 other sensors are working. This happened when I rebooted the modules.

I cannot wait to get lane centering.

I have one other idea to test. There could be a partial break in the circuit, where there is signal degradation, but not a total failure. There is a good enough connection to carry steady voltage and pass resistance checks with a multimeter, but the circuit should fail under a load test.

So I am working on Installing the 2 rear side parking sensors, however I can’t get them to work. When I had originally connected them to test, everything did work. I started by unplugging both of the parking sensors, and I connected jumper wires to do pinpoint tests. I checked for any short circuits. Then, I checked the power and ground with the key on and with the ignition on. So, I unplugged the BCM connector C2280E, which has rear park aid power, ground, and the rear side sensors. I took a piece of wire and connected it into the BCM connector, so that I could measure the resistance of the circuit from the parking sensor connector all the way to the BCM connector. I also checked for a short circuit between the two parking sensors. So, all of my wiring seemed to be good. Maybe a parking sensor went bad somehow? So, I swapped the two parking sensors with the two rear outer parking sensors. Still no fix. All 10 of the other parking sensors are working. I completed a BCM, PAM, and APIM self test. No DTCs. I completed a BCM, PAM, and APIM module reboot. I am running out of ideas. I can’t think of anything else to test for. It’s getting annoying because the rear side parking sensors used to work when I had them temporarily installed to test. Now, I can’t get them to work once I am here to permanently install them. 😭😔 Side note: I also have 2 new bi-directional rear wheel speed sensors for active park assist, but I won’t be able to install them until I have these last 2 side sensors working.

The HSWM seems to be the same across Ford/Lincoln vehicles. They are easy and cheap to find. The more expensive parts are finding the steering wheel and clock spring. The wiring isn’t too bad either.

The Battery Council International defines the Group 94R (H7) battery with standard physical dimensions of 315 mm in length, 175 mm in width, and 190 mm in height, with the positive terminal on the right. Typical H7 batteries deliver around 12 volts, 730–850 cold cranking amps (CCA), and an amp-hour (Ah) capacity of about 80. https://batterycouncil.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/BCI-Group-Sizes.pdf

@johnmarkp Any progress of improving your ride quality? I like the “floating” feeling of the 2007 MKX, even though it doesn’t have the adaptive electronics.

Please see supported adapters at forscan.org. The most reliable way is to use a wired adapter with a Windows computer. Supported adapters : OBDLink EX USB, recommended USB adapter for Windows version of FORScan, also for configuration and programming functions OBDLink MX+ BT, recommended Bluetooth adapter for Lite versions of FORScan (iOS, Android) OBDLink SX/LX/MX ELS27 (STN1170/2120) ELM327-compatible (fully compatible with original ELM327, please also see important note below) J2534 Pass-Thru

Very confusing. @tamgc2 Are you looking at an image of a vehicle with two dotted lines on each side, and those lines may be grey, yellow, red, or green?

What is your model year? Can you add it to your profile signature?

It is impossible for active park assist on the Ford Edge to control the vehicle's speed. The operator must control the accelerator, gearshift and brakes. The vehicle will control the steering. However, vehicles equipped with Active Park Assist 2.0, such as the 2024+ Lincoln Nautilus, will prompt you to shift into neutral. Then, you must hold down the park button. Active Park Assist 2.0 is not available on the Ford Edge. The driver must use the accelerator and brake to control the vehicle's speed.

Yes, you remove your hands from the steering wheel. However, the vehicle cannot brake for you or control the speed. The driver must use the brake and gas to maintain speed and stop the vehicle when it gets close to obstacles.

Great write up!