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what have u found?

what's the problem u think? the filter inside the can doesn't allow enough air go trough? The hoses are pretty thick, but they are regular, like a heater core hoses. So why it works flawlessly then and does its job? If it works fine for 400+ miles - do u think is there any danger for the engine?

So I installed an oil catch can approximately 400+ miles ago. I've got a table spoon of s*it in it since then. And just today I open the hood showing it to my friend with engine running I noticed that rubber hoses almost flat(engine runs just fine, no codes). So I think should I replace those rubber hoses with a plastic tube or just keep like that if it has been running 400+ miles with no problems?

because of set of tires u'll get rid of the car?

why did u changed VVT solenoids? Where u got them from? Did u check the top around connectors on them if they are oiled since then?

Any suggestions? I think I'll try to clean the seals and solenoid carefully and apply an RTV around. So if the oil still going to appear on the top of solenoid it means the solenoid itself is defective(leaking trough itself)? Bank 1 had that leak almost right away since I replaced it, bank 2 just started to get a tiny bit oiled( P.S.: solenoids seals are new and(maybe) leak, spark plug seals still original and they don't leak. I wish it not a solenoid, cz I watched a video it's possible to replace solenoid seals without valve covers off.. So as I mentioned in the other thread - I still have a little engine vibration. I've just found an information if the VCT solenoid leaks then the engine could run rough damaging timing components. But since I replaced VCT solenoids 7k miles ago - I've never seen any MIL or any stored codes at all.

do u wanna say driving with no dipstick, for example, won't affect ur oil pressure? That's pretty similar situation as a catch can with an air filter. Ok, I'll try and then I'll post results.

according to the information I've read - it definitely will with the air filter attached to the can. Without the filter an air chamber will slightly increase anyway by additional hoses and can's volume, but I think it's not gonna affect the pressure too much.

Alright, that's sad. Looks like I have to use that oil catch can with no air filter on top of it to maintain right engine oil pressure? Those oil catch cans come with an air filter that could be attached on a top of the can or just the plug(to block the hole) instead of an air filter. I'm wondering what's gonna happen with an internal engine oil pressure after that catch can installation - will it get lower which is bad for the engine or not that much?

So I've got some knowledge what u said about. Looks like I have to use that oil catch can with no air filter on top of it to maintain right engine oil pressure? I don't remember if the scan tool will show me an oil pressure on this car - 2009 MKX? I'd like to compare before catch can installation and after. I still have a new PCV valve, but the one I replaced just 5-6k miles ago I doubt it's became bad that fast.

Why? Is there a chip or just a simple resistor?

mine has 121k on it only, full synth oil every 3k miles since I bought it with 104k. I replaced a PCV with an O'Reiilys one at the time I was replacing a water pump(115k). So many ppl say about a PCV but no one says how to check it - that's the simplest PCV ever I think: if it would be defective - there's too much pressure would come out of the oil filler neck - correct?

I got a bad oil consumption: after 1200 miles I added 1qt of oil((( Can't find a problem: no leaks, no blue smoke etc...

I had vibration on the same MKX after I installed an Amazon $30 torque arm. Than I found an OEM one for $80 and it became much better, but still a little vibration... Also I replaced a center bearing on my driveshaft(started tore) and did not apply any lube on splines, now I'm thinking how bad is that...

I've got abnormal oil consumption - I added 1qt after 1300 miles. My aftermarket VVT solenoids get wet with oil on the top around connectors(got 'em from O'Reilly). Compression 10,5-11(the tool was loosing a rubber cone on its end). I've found that the thread on the spark plug was covered with oil. I replaced plugs 5k miles ago using aluminum anti seize on a thread - now it's oiled. No oil around the plug inside plugs chambers...