Orion

Check out www.retro-solutions.com. They have headlight projector modification services...spendy, but they look great.

A question a bit off-subject...does the Edge come with a factory-installed amp for the audio system? My parents bought an '09 Escape and it has an amplifier accessible from the back cargo area. I can't find an amp in the Edge for the life of me...

I had a similar cover in my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Instead of spending the cash for a non-retractable cover, I went to Target and bought a 2-pack of 42 x 86" black canvas curtains for $15. I folded the first curtain in half and it protects the black cargo carpet. To cover small items in the back, I just put them between the first and second layer. The second curtain is folded up and under the back seat...when I need a larger cover, that's what I use. I've taken a couple road trips with the Edge and the 'curtain cargo system' (haha) works great.

Nice!!! I got the same response to the mods I made, but I did them anyway. They were worth it and she didn't kill me!!

Side note, the 'small hole' is about 1/16" round and its on the vertical right side (for driver headrest, it's on the center console's side of the seat; for the passenger's headrest, it's on the door's side of the seat) of the plastic height adjuster. When you push the paperclip through the hole, it will feel like you're pushing on a spring. Take the headrest to it's highest position, push on the 'spring' with the paperclip and pull 'up' on the headrest. Also, when you flip them around and you raise the height of the headrest, you cannot lower it without using the paperclip/hole procedure. If you have problems with the paperclip rigidity, use a small allen wrench. Hope that helps and doesn't confuse!!

It's hard plastic. Pretty decent construction, from what I can tell. All I can imagine is thickness inconsistency in the middle on some parts...I didn't scrutinize the construction before installation. Meh?

I thought about the installation error as well...not sure what else I could have done differently. I installed it within the recommended ambient/surface temperatures and didn't do anything goofy. Any suggestions for my 'round 2' installation?

OK, folks - here's an update regarding the "bubbles" in my bumper cover. First, here are the pics: I tried to work the bubbles out myself at no avail. Honestly, I wasn't too hip with cutting holes to relieve the air, so I contacted the eBay vendor (sportwing.com). Here's my e-mail: Good morning, Sam – here are the pictures you requested (not the best of cameras, but you can see the bubbles pretty well). Let me know what you think a viable fix would be… -------- Wow, we've never seen this before...We will get you a replacement sent out ASAP. We want this one back so we can analyze it. We will include a UPS return label with the replacement parts. Just put the bad part in the box, attach the label, and send back with ups. Regards, Sportwing 800-899-1516 sam@sportwing.com ------------------------------------- Sounds like it was just a manufacturing defect? Meh? I'll post up if the SECOND bumper cover has the same issue. Here's the product info: Manufacturer: Sportwing Model #: BCM-52 (the website doesn't say anything about thickness; this model is 1/8" thick) Link: Bumper Cover

Here's a related question ... does anyone know how to CHANGE the splash screen? I've wanted to post about this for a while...I mean, the car has a USB port for crying out loud! There's got to be some sort of interface you can do between a laptop and the car to change stuff. I may be dreaming, but figured it was worth asking!!!!

Whelp, I finished the total outer LED conversion this past Saturday (except for the puddle lights...not sure I'm ready for that venture). All went well as soon as I figured out that the crappy splicers that come with the resistors from SuperbrightLED's should be tossed in the trash. Here's the summary of the installation (I can post pics if anyone is interested, but seems like most are ahead of me with this mod): 1) The wiring on the driver's die turn signal was really tight...I couldn't even remove the bulb without grabbing the wire loom from the lower support and pulling up to relieve pressure. I purchased some 18 AWG stranded wire from Pep Boys and extended all three wires to give me some more room (I used standard butt splicers). 2) To splice the resistors into the OEM wiring, I used a 22 - 10 AWG pigtail splice and filled it with liquid electrical tape (because I'm paranoid...this probably isn't necessary). 3) I used epoxy and mounted the resistors to the side walls. Driver side = right next to the fuse box. Passenger’s side = right below the coolant reservoir. 4) In back, I too, lost the side marker bulb in the housing. Friggin' aye!!! Yes, much easier to get out than the front. (Side note, if anyone DOES lose a bulb in the front, you can remove the entire headlight assembly and shake the bulb out. After talking to my local dealer's service dept., turns out this would not have been that big of a deal to achieve). ... Anyway, in back, I mounted the resistors between the bumper and body. There are convenient little spaces on each side. This is really the reason for my post, as there was plenty of info regarding the rest of the install, but I had no idea where I was going to put these in the back (other than someone's comment to put them in the bumper...?). Here are the pics. The passenger's side was tight enough to hold the resistor in place. The driver's side was a bit loose, so I added some epoxy to keep it in place (again, I'm paranoid). And there you have it...the results are great! This was a cool mod; only spent $80 in bulbs (www.superbrightleds.com) and $5 in misc. parts.

Check this thread: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?sho...60&start=60

I have this EXACT model installed on my Edge. I purchased it about 3 weeks ago (see my gallery for the pic). It works great and it's already been useful. I play bass in a church worship team and I'm lugging my bass around quite a bit. I had issus with the case clipping the bumper on my previous SUV (Jeep Grand Cherokee), so I wanted protection. I was also concerned with the cover being close enough to the edge of the bumper so it would protect it as much as possible. I simply installed it as close to the edge as possible...it matched the contour of the bumper perfectly and looks great. This is a bit off topic, but the only problem I have with the friggin' thing is that it's bubbling in the middle of the cover...it's like there are air bubbles trapped that I can't get out. I installed it in 70* ambient temperature while it was in my garage...I'm thinking about leaving it in the sun on a warm day and trying to work the bubbles out by hand. Any suggestions?

Thanks, everyone...I'll do so tonight!

Welp, after a night full of fun LED drama (problems with installing the resistors, dropped the bulb in the front flasher housing (that was a fun fishing trip), etc., etc.), the only friggin lights I installed were the license plate set. Here's the result: That looks like CRAP!! Both light assemblies have the light pointing to the right. The only solution I can think is to modify the plastic around the right assembly so I can install it the other way around so the LED light beams will cross each other. Did anyone else have this problem? If so, what was your solution?

It's much easier to just take short-head, flat-back wire cutters and snip that rib out...I had to do the same to fix a polarity issue on my HID's.