inkslinginmofo77

Either your filler neck opening flap needs to be cleaned so it can seal properly or your have a sticky tank vent solenoid problem. That’s typically caused by people trying to fill their tanks past the point the gas nozzle clicks off indicating full. Any more and the fuel can get into the charcoal canister and affect the vent solenoid, but if you are losing that much gas you’d either have a gassy puddle under your car or someone is stealing the gas from your tank. Things to consider

If you have a capable scan tool, you may be able to do a throttle relearn function. The teaches the throttle body the travel parameters of the accelerator pedal. And Calibrates it. You could have a faulty TPS sensor as well. You can start by removing the air intake assembly so you have visual access to the throttle body blade. Have someone help you by turning the key to the “run” position and without starting it, have someone press and depress the accelerator pedal and watch the movement of the throttle body blade. To see if it’s moving properly. And also have them hold it he pedal halfway down and hold it there and see if there’s any twitching or movement of the throttle body. To make sure the throttle body is working correctly. Also check the condition of your throttle body’s interior. Make sure a it’s not gunked up with carbon deposits or dirt. If it turns out your throttle body isn’t responding correctly then it’s most likely going to need replaced. You can also pull the harness from your throttle body position sensor and do a resistance test with a multimeter. Check to see if the resistance is changing with the movement of the accelerator pedal. But have visual access to the throttle body’s interior and blade to check its behavior when the gas pedal is depressed. Car must must be in “run” position but not started to do this. Hope this helps

I had this issue. Hard to start after gas fill ups at times. Rpm’s jump erratically at times, stalls, loss of power etc. Went through 6 different purge valves. Most shops use aftermarket brands so I took a shot in the dark and went to a ford dealer and bought a ford OEM purge valve to make sure it was factory and I haven’t had a problem since. Make sure yer using a FACTORY oem purge valve. Something to do with latency and PWM signal. But since using motorcraft OEM ford purge valve it has completely went away. Not venting tank vapors efficiently back into engine can flood or starve it depending on how well it works with the engines ecm. So OEM. Make sure it’s whats in there! hope it helps.