Ollie45

I replace my purge valve last summer, hard starts after refueling, now it sounds like a machine gun at random times. Is this normal? Car has other issues as well because of the past owner neglecting oil changes. I believe the VVT solenoids are getting plugged again. This is after new plug, coils, valve covers, VVT's, and timing components. Not to mention both cats and all O2 sensors in the last month. Still idles rough, sounds like it wants to stall..

My Edge would keep rolling over even after the key was not in the start position after fueling up. Or it would just roll over and not want to start. I replaced the Evap Purge valve and it fixed this issue. It is a very cheap and simple fix. Hopefully this is your issue also, check out youtube for some videos if needed. The part is like $20 and it takes about 5 minutes to change it. Good luck.

I have owned the vehicle since last April i believe. It was a hot mess when i got it. The previous owner failed to perform regular oil changes and the engine was pretty slugged up. I ended up doing multiple kerosene flushes (not while running) to remove some of the sludge and eventually replaced the valve covers and VVT solenoids. I also replaced the alternator, purge sensor, and oil pressure switch just recently because the oil pressure was reading low while at idle. I found it was leaking and was a cheap easy fix and does seem to have fixed this issue. The Spark plugs were also changed when the valve covers were off. The oil looks fine, it only has a few hundred miles since changed. The oil has been changed at-least 7-8 times since i have owned because of the sludge issues, not to mention how many times i have screened the oil and reused for a week or so during the sludge removal. I hope it is just a bad coil, i am really tired of dumping money into the car, lol. Thanks for your response!

The other day when the wife was driving our 2013 Edge with the 3.5, the check engine light came on and started flashing. It idles and runs rough after sitting at a light or stop sign, but runs fine again once driving for a 1/2 mile or so. Put a scanner on it today and it came up with codes P0300-00, P0301-00,P0302-00,PO303-00, P0316-00 and P0420-00. This is the same car that had major oil sludge issues that i (knock on wood) finally got rid of for now. I have also changed the valve covers, VCT solenoids, and oil pressure switch and spark plugs. Now it is once again running really rough at idle. Any suggestions where to start? I'm assuming maybe it could be an ignition coil or two? Thoughts or comments? Thanks

Once again, after about 30-60 seconds, the light came back on. Dammit! lol

My "check charging system" light came on one day after the car was started, i decided to drive home just make sure i wouldn't get stranded. ON the way home, the light went out, only a few minutes into the drive. From there on, almost everytime i would start the car, the light would come on and shut off just a few minutes later (if that) . This went on for about a week. The light would stay on longer sometimes but only a few seconds others. Last Friday i left home to get some fuel and light came on but went off after a few seconds. Once i fueled up and left the gas station, it came on and didn't shut off. I barely made it back home running on the battery only. I figured the alternator just died. Bought a new one and fought with the SOB to replace it, low and behold it does the same thing. I checked the wiring from the fuse box through the harness, back to the plug for the alternator, the plug had a little crud or corrosion in it, so i replaced it. Still didn't solve the issue. When the car running with no warinig light, it has 14.5 volts at the batter, when the light is on, it has only 11.5 or so. Last night i drove it around for 15-20 mins and the light never came on. This morning we took it to get groceries, it came on and went off for a short periond. We got closer to the store and it came back on and never shut off, even on the whole ride home, about 15 minutes or so. I left the car running and checked the battery, it was around 12.4, unpluged the alternator and the pin #3 (yellow orange strip wire) was the same. Anyone have any advice, i am not good with electrical and damn this is frusterating. This is the same car that was so slugged up in the engine that i had to change the 4 VVT solenoids and valve covers, along with changing the oil about 8 times in only 2 monthes of owning it. I am positive all of the wiring was hooked back up correctly. It was finally runnign how it should until this started approx. two weeks ago. Thoughts or ideas? I have not had the battery tested. It is a 2013 Ford Edge 3.5 non ecoboost. Thanks

Well tonight i plan on draining the oil and hope to find out how much sludge is in the motor. I bought a new open drain pain so i can filter the oil and see how much crap is at the bottom of the pan. I'm also thinking about dumping a couple quarts of Kerosene into the motor by itself but not run the engine. I'm thinking maybe this will break up whatever is sitting at the bottom of the drain pan and oil pickup and/or filter. Once it sits for a couple days, drain the kerosene, add new filter and oil and run it and see what happens before I tear into the motor and change the solenoids. The motor doesn't really have any rattle yet, so hopefully the timing chain and components are still ok. I was driving it yesterday for about 20ish miles and the low oil pressure light came on and went off a couple of times, this makes me think the sludge is at the bottom and getting into the pump and filter area. We shall see what happens.

I purchased a used 2013 Edge two weekends ago and only got one key and fob with it. They fob is in bad shape held together with zip ties, lol So i bought two fobs of off EBAy and had one cut tonight. I watched a Youtube video on how to program the fob. Programing the fob went great, but the key will not start the car. The dash lights up as if i just turned to the on position, but it doesn't acutally try to start the car. Any ideas? thanks

If the code says bank 1, that means the side thats close to the firewall is how i understand it. Can i change just the two on bank 1 or should i just do all 4 at the same time. it is the 3.5 non turbo. Thanks

The oil was not milky at all, just very dirt Dark Brown. I did not notice sludge in the Drain Pain, just inside the fill cap. I stuck my finger inside the cover and didnt feel any others sludge. To me it sounds like the VVT solenoids are clogged or something because of the noise from that side of the motor (if i am hearing them correctly) can hear ticking and as the RPMs rise under acceleration the tick get louder. Thanks for the reply.

So i picked up this 2013 Edge last weekend, rough idle, sluggish accelerating etc.. I was told it sat for 3-4 months before i bought it. The battery was dead i was told but the guy had it on a charger and it started right up when i got there. Took it for a ride, noticed the sluggish accelerating and rough idle when sitting at a stop sign or in the driveway, to the point where it did stall once. Bought the car, drove it approx. 55 miles with just the issues i stated above, runs and drives great once up to speed. Got home, checked the air filter.. OMG it was horrible, dirtiest air filter i've ever seen. Put a new one in, may have helped some but not much. Took it to work on Monday and scanned it. Code P0012 was new, P0014, P0022 and P0024 also were old codes that had been erased. I changed the oil and noticed the cap had some crud on it, so i can only assume the internals are sluggy as well. The more i read about these codes make me believe it could be the VVT solenoids?? So i want to order new ones as well as a new valve cover gasket kit. On the gasket kits it is asking if it is with or without Variable Valve timing. I thought this motor has two of the Solenoids so i need two of those gaskets along with the valve cover gaskets, spark plug gaskets and bolt seals. One kit has 4 seals for the VVT and the other has 2. Can anyone help me with this and have any thoughts about the issues i'm having? Really hope it isn't the timing chain or guide issue. Thank you for your help.