dabangsta

Hmm, I don't do it very often (just when the trash can won't go by it, or accidentally if walking close to it), it took more than a finger push, but not much. This is a 2019. My previous vehicle was a 2017 Escape and they are pretty similar. I could see doing this so many times it wears it out and makes it shake at idle. According to the order guide (I don't have a 2014) every model from SE up has folding side view mirrors (manual).

That isn't how it works anyways for the Fords that do have auto folding mirrors (like some year MKX which is the Lincoln version of the Edge). The icon on the mirror shows the car door and the mirror with the heat indicator, and the joystick shows the same, the side of the car and the mirror with the directions you will be moving it. For 2019, the Nautilus has power folding mirrors for one option package. If enabled, it does auto fold when car is turned off, in park, open the drivers door, and lock it. There also is a button in the left left quadrant of the control, but it isn't a joystick like that. I am too lazy to narrow down when auto folding was added to the MKX, I don't think it was available in 2014 but at least by 2019 it was, and likely earlier (2016), but maybe not the 2015 redesign.

No trim level for any year has power folding mirrors for the Edge. I think that all are manual folding capable, no matter the year or trim level or options (BLIS, heated, turn signals, etc).

I haven't checked the thickness of the rotors, but I haven't had rotors turned in a long time, and I don't plan on pad slapping this one either, so $100 for the caliper brackets, and slightly higher for the bigger rotors but not major.

At around 87,000 miles on my 2019 FWD SEL, and the rear pads are getting pretty thin. I have not had a car in recent memory that I didn't do some sort of big brake upgrade to (10.8 inch to 13 inch Cobra on my Mark VIII, 14 inch GT500 on my Grand Marquis, etc). Mine is FWD and has the smaller front rotors (316mm), and I want to go with the 345mm AWD ones (not looking to go with the ST Base or PP). I will leave the rears the standard 316mm solid. It seems like the caliper is the same for either rotor (and pads), just the bracket/support/mount is different. Can I just go with new caliper mounts, rotors, and pads from the AWD? Or do I need the bracket and caliper? If I put in the VIN for my FWD and for an AWD vehicle, I get same PN for calipers, different for rotors and brackets(supports), so not sure. Also they are referenced as "front vented 17" and 18 front vented. I assume that is for older years that still had 17 inch wheels standard (but all 2015+ have 18+ wheels). If I can get away with not unhooking the calipers so I need to bleed them, all the better. I am going to guess that it won't affect anything like ABS, stop and go cruise, collision avoidance, etc. I have a 17 inch spare, I think I have seen recent posts about 17 inch spare fitting over front and rear ST brakes, which have same rotor size but caliper is different.

My 2012 Fusion with the 390w premium sound setup is very obvious in how much it affects the volume between stopped and at speed, even with it being a noisier vehicle inside. I never would have guessed my 2019 SEL with premium sound has it (all trim levels and all sound systems have it), but it really doesn't get very loud inside by speed. I can adjust it on my Fusion, but my 2019 Edge it is either on or off. Hopefully someone will post the service manuals page on how it works.

The Wireless charging pad only provides up to 5w, so 5v 1a! With the screen off and Wireless Android Auto going it draws way more than that. The USB ports seem like 1amp as well, maybe 1.5 (it will charge my phone connected to Wired Android Auto). My current one, that has a Type A and a Type C port, is only 15w Type C and 15w Type A (it is completely over hyped as far as 20w Type C and 18 Type A), but I only have one device that can charge higher, and it doesn't need to. It does charge more than 15w if my phone is below 30% on the Type C port. fits in and the cover still covers it.

Winter formulation of fuel with more ethanol is probably not being rolled out in the western hemisphere right now.

For 2011-2013 there was a TSB (18-2013) on it, you can get the part number for the revised latch. There are all sorts of posts and videos here, from cleaning, to replacing, to breaking off the switch so it never does anything (but there are all sorts of side effects to that, like radio not turning off).

Air filter changed every 20,000 miles at least? No low tires (check them, not relying on the TPMS system)? No wheel that is hotter than the rest, or has more brake dust on it? How many miles and all other maintenance up to date, like spark plugs? Also driving style and environment around town can easily give you slightly lower than the EPA rating. I never match it (or highway either, but that rating doesn't include interstate driving, nothing over 55 if I remember correctly), I am an aggressive driver (jack rabbit starts, don't coast to stops but keep on the gas then instantly to brake, late and hard).

Well, it links to whatever map program you use if you use the directions functionality (which is nice as it shows your location and your cars), but within the app the maps look the same as before, and if I go to directions it goes to Waze.

Not that I am stalkerish, but being able to tell where my vehicle is, within reason, while moving, was very handy. It might be delayed a few minutes, but was refreshable by pulling down. In the past I had used it to help the driver remotely with an alternate route for example, or know how many minutes or hours I have to clean up the house before the spousal unit returns so I don't yelled at. New version of FordPass, among other issues, no longer updates location of vehicle. It will show location when it is parked, and it will show the last location on when vehicle was stopped or started (so even after traveling an hour, the location is the gas station, for example). Anyone else dealing with this? I see other vehicles that have extended functionality in the app are missing it, and frequently when I select Location it doesn't actually show a location (stuck on the same screen), but this is pretty much a feature killer.

I have zero luck with the wireless charging spot in my 2019. I use a cable (for Android Auto/Apple CarPlay) and put the phone face down so it doesn't try to charge (it will, even if plugged in). If I put it in back side down, it overheats. If I don't have a case on my smaller iPhone 11, it will slide out of position and stop charging. I 3d printed a surround for my iPhone 11 (it is my work phone, I take it with me in case I am on call, but don't use it to stream audio or navigation rarely, as I prefer my android phone) which helped, but in the summer when it is 115 degrees, even with the AC on Max (which it rarely is once the cabin is down to a reasonable temp) it still overheats. Passenger plugs into a 12v USB power point plugged into the passenger side outlet anyways, as the USB in the console is slow (it or the wireless charging charges my phone at most 1% an hour, barely keeps up with usage). Since there are plenty of 30w adapters that fit in the outlet and still allow it the cover to close, I don't see it as a workaround, it is just a better way of charging devices. I might take up my threat and unplug the wireless charger, that would make the most sense. 99% of my device charging is via wireless charging. I have stands on my desk for my phones, I have one on the night stand, and Android trickle charges until my morning alarm anyways, it is more than enough to start at 0 at 10pm and be at 100% by 5 am.

An AGM H6 is what it should have, and what it should be replaced with.

What year ST is it? I don't think the Edge has any known issues like others (like the Explorer) where it incorrectly reports that. When to turn off the car and before you open a door can you keep the radio going for a bit? Batteries aren't what they used to be. When my 2017 Escape starting doing this I also couldn't listen to music without the engine running, I got a similar message that it was shutting down to preserve the battery. Mine tested down the 225CCA, and I drove it like that for awhile, as it always started fine, and I carried a jump box. but in the end wasn't worth the loss of remote start and location and wondering when it would fail to start.

No, it cannot be started without the fob. The fob doesn't need to work to unlock the doors with the buttons or proximity sensor, or even inside proximity sensor. There is a spot in the center console you can place the fob with the key ring forward and the buttons up to bypass the proximity if the battery is dead in the fob.

The menu option of "Auto Engine Off" is not related to Auto Start/Stop.

There is no menu item for it. I think you are disabling the extended run where when you start it and let it idle it will only go for so long before shutting down.

There are add on remote starts that use the factory fob, but some combination of buttons to start, like lock/unlock/lock (no horn honk) and older ones was lock/lock/lock (but it honks on the second lock, which is annoying). My 2015 Fusion came with one (bought used) that we didn't know about until we were playing around with global up/down windows, and it started. But that shouldn't happen from the door, but brake might be the thing that shuts it down if you brake before you put in the key. I also don't think there is a config for it that it might reset to default and do that, some how start on a single lock and from any source. I spotted it when I added a fuse tap to add a dash cam, it was tied into the OBD port as well.

No direct correlation between electrical system and mechanical water pump in the 3.5. Maybe the cooling fans and that caused it to overheat and the water pump seal to fail?

So you have the IKT (key with a cut blade and all the remote features on the head) and have to turn the key to start. You have one that electronically works (when near the steering column), and one that physically turns the ignition switch, but neither key will do both? Or only one works to remotely lock/unlock, but both will start the car? Or do you have push to start and Intelligent Access?

2022 will have the 8F35, there are some TSBs for them, but most are not for 2022. There is 21-2081 (21-2389) that is 2019-2021 Edge 8f35 shudder/jerk at low (under 35 mph) speeds. I do wish I knew about that one when I picked up my 2019 with 1000 miles left on warranty, I might need tot ake it and pay that 1 hour labor to get the strategy reprogram done, as that is the biggest/only gripe from the usual driver of the car (my wife).

Interesting, I didn't know that is what it was called, and what it really was. I have seen a tan and brown film before, but never this much depth and darkness. I guess my other cars with the plugs down in wells the spark plug boot covers more up to the shell, and before that when plugs where out in the elements it was tough to tell road grime from it. I did the plugs on an older 2.0 with 110,000 miles and it had none of that, I always thought it was combustion gases making it past where the shell was, as I have seen it on one or 2 plugs but never all of them.

I think changing them out at 82,000 miles has improved the idle a bit, was a wee bit rough before. I fought the cylinder #4 COP until I figured out how easy these boots come off the COP and how. I was surprised to see this much carbon on the insulator porcelain (I wiped away some on the first one to check the part number): The Iridium nub was still shiny but the gap was eroded a bit

Probably like the older style ones that lock on, so you don't accidentally overfill the tire by forgetting it is connected or can't get it disconnected in time. Probably not an issue with an inflator (no tank and generates air as used), my cheapo 12v inflator screws on, it can take a bit to get it off, but chugging at 1psi every 30 seconds or so not an issue.