dabangsta

There are add on remote starts that use the factory fob, but some combination of buttons to start, like lock/unlock/lock (no horn honk) and older ones was lock/lock/lock (but it honks on the second lock, which is annoying). My 2015 Fusion came with one (bought used) that we didn't know about until we were playing around with global up/down windows, and it started. But that shouldn't happen from the door, but brake might be the thing that shuts it down if you brake before you put in the key. I also don't think there is a config for it that it might reset to default and do that, some how start on a single lock and from any source. I spotted it when I added a fuse tap to add a dash cam, it was tied into the OBD port as well.

No direct correlation between electrical system and mechanical water pump in the 3.5. Maybe the cooling fans and that caused it to overheat and the water pump seal to fail?

So you have the IKT (key with a cut blade and all the remote features on the head) and have to turn the key to start. You have one that electronically works (when near the steering column), and one that physically turns the ignition switch, but neither key will do both? Or only one works to remotely lock/unlock, but both will start the car? Or do you have push to start and Intelligent Access?

2022 will have the 8F35, there are some TSBs for them, but most are not for 2022. There is 21-2081 (21-2389) that is 2019-2021 Edge 8f35 shudder/jerk at low (under 35 mph) speeds. I do wish I knew about that one when I picked up my 2019 with 1000 miles left on warranty, I might need tot ake it and pay that 1 hour labor to get the strategy reprogram done, as that is the biggest/only gripe from the usual driver of the car (my wife).

Interesting, I didn't know that is what it was called, and what it really was. I have seen a tan and brown film before, but never this much depth and darkness. I guess my other cars with the plugs down in wells the spark plug boot covers more up to the shell, and before that when plugs where out in the elements it was tough to tell road grime from it. I did the plugs on an older 2.0 with 110,000 miles and it had none of that, I always thought it was combustion gases making it past where the shell was, as I have seen it on one or 2 plugs but never all of them.

I think changing them out at 82,000 miles has improved the idle a bit, was a wee bit rough before. I fought the cylinder #4 COP until I figured out how easy these boots come off the COP and how. I was surprised to see this much carbon on the insulator porcelain (I wiped away some on the first one to check the part number): The Iridium nub was still shiny but the gap was eroded a bit

Probably like the older style ones that lock on, so you don't accidentally overfill the tire by forgetting it is connected or can't get it disconnected in time. Probably not an issue with an inflator (no tank and generates air as used), my cheapo 12v inflator screws on, it can take a bit to get it off, but chugging at 1psi every 30 seconds or so not an issue.

The LED on the button or the section in the instrument panel? Sounds like the LED in the switch no longer works, but that should have no bearing on the functionality. If when first turning to ignition on and all lights are tested does the instrument cluster light for traction control not light, then it is an issue with the cluster. If it does light up during bulb test/prove out, but the button doesn't function (when pressed it doesn't make the light illuminate in the cluster showing it is off) then there is an issue with the button (the LED is independent of the button functionality, but all use the same connector). Do your hazards work?

You need a new tire calculator/comparer. that 315/35/R20 is only .3 inches shorter than a 255/50/R19. It is significantly wider at around 12.4 inches.

If you have an AUX in, you have MyFord which doesn't have USB or Bluetooth capabilities, so a USB port wouldn't provide any benefit. Any power point to USB power adapter will provide much better power than the USB standard of 500mW to charge. To have a setup that can play songs from a USB thumb drive, or apps on a phone, or Apple CarPlay or Android Auto, you would need to go with an aftermarket head unit. The MyFord Touch 8 inch touch screen available for your year would have Bluetooth and USB drive playing capabilities, but would be as much work as an aftermarket setup. I don't know if center console replacements to fit a touch screen are common or available for your year and no touchscreen already.

Drivers side front of the cargo area? TCU

Before I found the correct lug nuts for a trailer to match the vehicle, I got an extended lug wrench with 2 double-sided sockets. I replaced the lugs to match the vehicle, but still carry the lug wrench as it has come in handy and works better than the OEM one in many instances. This is just a small selection of things I carry around the spare tire. I need to get a more current picture of it, and the things I 3d print holders for. I added a compressor, plug kit, jump box (each vehicle has its own now), etc.

So new they have 11/32 tread, but yours are worn down to 8/32? I think the industry standard deviation is 3/32 before it will cause weird things to happen, so right at that. I don't know if Ford has a spec for it or not. Places like Tirerack can shave them to match your other 3 as well. https://www.tirerack.com/upgrade-garage/can-tires-be-shaved-to-match-tread-depths-on-allwheel-drive-fourwheel-drive-vehicles

Left message/information center>Drivers Assist>Pre-Collision>Alert Sensitivity there is Low, Normal, or High. ( or heck, just turn it off!) I tried Low figured out that I actually like the brake charging, I immediately have brakes when I touch them and full power. I have never had it auto brake for me, just alert and pressurize the brake system.

The owners manual says you can change the sensitivity of it, but I have not been able to find it in my settings, but I guess I didn't really look all that hard as it has only flaked out on me a couple of times with large semi trailers in adjacent lanes, and I guess a bit sensitive in stop and go traffic if I am aggressive with the 0-75-0 or the adaptive cruise is.

if you didn't touch the area on top of the handles that are used to lock it with proximity of the Intelligent Access fob, I guess that could mean that one of them is busted and always trying to lock it, and once the fob is close enough it can finally lock? When you unlocked it, did it relock? Proximity just enables it to be locked or unlocked using the touch points.

(Un)Fortunately my Google Pixel 6 Pro stays in place, but it heats up so bad it shuts off charging. My sons iPhone 14 slides off and stops charging. I put my phone in upside down so it doesn't change since I have it plugged in for Android Auto (and the iPhones for Carplay). I will probably disable the wireless charging pad. I charge all the time on QI chargers and don't have an issue except in the car.

It is easy enough to lock the keys in the vehicle. It is tougher to do with the engine running. I made sure I have my door code (I made a custom one that matches my last cars code), FordPass is currently connected, and the Alexa connection is still authorized, so even if I lock my phone in the car, I can still unlock it from my watch.

Sorry to hear that! If you didn't setup FordPass to access it via the cell phone app, and you don't have access to another key easily, getting the code isn't possible, especially when locked out.

Not that you have a time machine and can go back and make sure the vehicle has it when you bought it, but Co-Pilot Assist+ with ACC, evasive steering, and navigation was $795 on my 2019. It was cheaper than the convenience package with alarm, hands free lift gate, remote start, garage door opener, and wireless charging pad (which was $835) But then there was an equipment group savings and a California package and wheel discount, -$1700 for a 201a ($2800), silly all weather floor mats ($125), Co-Pilot Assist ($795), Convenience Package ($835), pano roof ($1595) and machined dark pocket 18 inch wheels ($895) so not clear what was discounted.

Thanks! I scoured their videos and didn't see one, and boom a new one was created. I wonder if that black ADBV is actually black silicone. I agree the new one looks like Champ made ones (maybe not the $2 one but not the higher end one either), and I think the FL-910S is still better. Still on the fence about the FL-400S upgrade. When I am under there changing the oil this weekend I will see if there are any reasons to not go with the longer one with more filter area. I did find a PDF with an exploded view and they also say it has a silicone ADBV I guess the other manufacturer uses red to make it stand out from the nitrile ones? OEP.pdf

Ecoboost 2.0 and Coolant intrusion. It does require a new engine that has a different design to not have this issue again. It is an unfortunate issue for 2015-2018 Edge and 2017-2019 Escape and Fusion. My 2017 Escape had a similar possible issue that could happen and I stressed out about it a lot. (Un)Fortunately it was lost in an accident at 96,000 miles and it never had any issues, but it was still a bit stressful waiting for it possibly happen. One of the reasons I went with a 2019 Edge when there were better equipped 2017-2018 for less, the common issues it has are cheaper, external, and in the case of the one I bought, already fixed and reprogrammed.

That would be Lane Keeping. It can alert or aid with steering wheel vibrations or very minimal torque input to try to keep in the lane. Lane Centering will actually provide enough torque to fully keep the vehicle centered (well, what it considers centered), they call it assist but it will decently follow curvy roads if the markings are detectable. I hate and enjoy it on my 2019. I don't like what it considers centered, and I like that it does help with fatigue on longer drivers (I frequently do 6-12 hour drives).

Ford dealer handed me an FL2123 instead of an FL910S (FL910S not readily available anymore locally via auto parts store or Walmart). I declined and got them from Rockauto and put off the oil change. While I understand that it seems like it is a new manufacturer for it, and they call it an OE Performance replacement, I don't see things like the silicone ADBV (and not real clear if that is needed with the orientation of it anyways in this usage), anyone seen anything about this and other FL2xxx replacements for other common Ford ones (my 3.5 takes an FL500S and the dealer had none of it in stock either)? The S denotes the silicone ADBV and is obvious to see through the holes at the mating side, don't see it with the FL2123. Do most here use the larger FL400S in place of the FL910S?

I am sorry, but anyone with a 2019+ that doesn't have the high level headlights is dazzling oncoming traffic with low beams only, forget about high beams. I never thought that getting a Titanium since it has leveling headlights would be required, but if I have 50 pounds of stuff in the cargo area everyone flashes me, instead of only 30% of people if I don't. NTHSA gives them poor rating. Also this requires the matrix headlights, that I don't think even the high level US headlights do, it isn't standard in the UK either, optional on the ST-Line.